This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels October 27

FRIDAY 27 OCTOBER     CORAL BAY

I did some chores in the morning and just relaxed, sitting outside the van, enjoying the warmth, birds and a little breeze.

Then we went snorkelling again. It is so much pleasure. I could live here for weeks, just doing this every day!

After lunch, drove out to Maud’s Landing, just to the north of the village, along a rough track. There is a big controversy here at the moment, due to a proposal to build a resort and marina here. This is being hotly opposed by those who feel it will threaten the reef – both from pollution and over use. I hope it does not go ahead – I love the laid back, village nature of the place.

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Track to Mauds Landing – letting the tyres down to drive in the sand

At Maud’s Landing, John fished, without catching anything. I wondered if the fish knew where the marine conservation zone ended and stayed away from the fishing areas!

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Mauds Landing

I went for a long walk along the beach. Beach walk days are just the best days!

Tea was chicken pieces done Greek style – marinated in lemon, garlic, herbs.


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2000 Travels October 26

THURSDAY 26 OCTOBER     CORAL BAY

It was a lovely day, about 30 degrees.

I went for a beach walk in the morning, while John slept in.

About midday, we walked across the road and went snorkelling again. Spent about ninety minutes in the water. The swimming was engrossing again. John was becoming more confident and prepared to go out further and stay out longer.

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It was a late lunch

After lunch we went walking along the beach to the south of the little rounded point.

I was going to have chicken marylands for tea, but after defrosting them, decided they were freezer burnt and too old, so I went to the shops and bought some frozen chook pieces – for tomorrow night – and sausages for tonight, which we had with salad.

There was a huge perentie lizard wandering around the caravan park. Up here. they call them bungarra. I was a bit wary the first time I saw it, but it just seemed intent on going where it wanted, irrespective of my presence.

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Bungarra


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2000 Travels October 25

WEDNESDAY 25 OCTOBER   EXMOUTH TO CORAL BAY   180kms

Our pack up and departure was quite routine.

We stopped in Exmouth to refuel – $1.22cpl.

Bought some oddments at the shops, including a paper.

On the way south, could not resist the temptation to stop again at the Kailis prawn factory, where we bought a kilo of reef fish and a batch of prawns – all frozen. I left the prawns out to defrost for tea, but quickly repackaged the reef fish into three lots for the freezer.

Kailis operate their own fishing boats in these waters, so the chance to buy from here was not to be missed.

After that, it was an uneventful trip to Coral Bay – but rather uninteresting. There were some wildflowers in places, but other areas that looked severely over grazed.

We went to the Bayview Caravan Park in Coral Bay. This was not the one we’d stayed at in ’93, which was higher up the hill.

We initially booked in for three days only, but they said we could convert it to a weekly rate later, if we decided to stay on. This we eventually did, so the cost per night became $16.

We had a pleasant site, with a cement slab, which was good here because it reduced the amount of gritty sand getting tracked into the van.

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Our Coral Bay camp

The park was fairly empty at this time of year. It was a pleasant park, with shade trees and even grass around – something that is hard to grow in these parts where water supply is an issue.

Set up, had lunch, then took our snorkelling gear and walked basically just across the road to the beach, and went snorkelling.

The coral comes really close to the shore here. it is possible to enter the water and drift with the current, looking down on the corals and fish. The water was  warm. The corals were varied and so pretty, big rounded ones, branching ones, some like big leaves, lichen like ones. Lilac and bright yellow were notable colours.

There was a real assortment of fish, some with bright tropical colours. Snapper and dart came in round our feet whilst we were standing in the sand, attracted by us stirring it up. Little black and silver striped fish acted like our escorts, staying close all the time.

Magic!

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Near where we were snorkelling was the mooring area for boats, where the gently rounded point of the bay curves around. A couple of these were day trip tour vessels. In ’93 we’d done an outing on a glass bottomed boat here, and seen the corals and teeming fish that way. The operator fed the fish, so there were lots of large snapper came round the boat. Again it is a no fish area, which helps to explain the multitudes of fish we met today.

After an hour or so in the water, we came out and walked back to the van.

After a shower, I peeled the prawns for tea – nice big ones! We had them on shredded lettuce with a seafood sauce. Yummy.

10-25-2000 to cb


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2000 Travels October 24

TUESDAY 24 OCTOBER     EXMOUTH

After breakfast, we drove down to Turquoise Bay again, to snorkel.

We were both rather nervous, given the warnings about currents. It is a long time since I have been snorkelling – like more than thirty years! John has not really ever tried it.

There were plenty of other people around, which gave some sense of safety.

I discovered that I couldn’t easily use the snorkel, because the mouthpiece hits that damned loose filling. So I used just the mask and kept coming up for air as needed.

The water was very warm and pleasant, with occasional cool little currents – the ocean equivalent of a gentle breeze?

It was not far to swim to the corals, which were fairly colourful. There were plenty of different sorts of fish about.

It took me a while to relax into it and not be tense about the breathing issue.

John was not confident swimming out of his depth, so he kept swimming in and out.

We did that for an hour or so, then dried off in the sun and ate our packed lunch.

The decision was made to go down to Yardie Creek, further south. The drive took us through the rather barren and stony scrubland that is typical of the Cape, with the low hills of the quite rugged Cape Range to our left.

At Yardie Creek, the tidal creek inlet is a barrier, and the sealed road ends there. Some years, it is possible to cross here, in 4WD, at low tide, and continue on a rough track to Coral Bay. In ’93, we came up that way and were very apprehensive about the crossing, with the old Hilux. I waded across first to photo it, but it was so easy that John was through almost before I could take a picture!

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The Yardie Creek crossing

This year, the crossing point looked very sandy. There was no reason for us to try it.

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Looking along Yardie Creek towards the crossing and the ocean

John went off to fish by the creek mouth, while I walked up the creek to the Gorge that is a major feature of it. The little path was somewhat rough and rocky and I had to watch my footing. The red rock of the Gorge walls make it a really attractive place, and the walk was well worth doing. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

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Yardie Creek Gorge ahead

10-24-2000 Yardie Creek Gorge

Yardie Creek Gorge, extending back into the Cape Range

John’s fishing was unsuccessful.

On the drive back, we had to keep a careful eye out for kangaroos, as it was getting dark by then. There were large mobs of the animals at the roadsides.

Tea was lamb chops and salad.


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2000 Travels October 23

MONDAY 23 OCTOBER     EXMOUTH

It was warm and sunny again.

We drove into Exmouth, so John could phone the accountant about some tax matters. Despite our new mobile phone, there are no signal bars around where we are staying.

I phoned a dentist in Carnarvon. Over the past few weeks, had become increasingly concerned about a loose filling in a front tooth. I am not sure it will last till we get home. But I could not get an appointment, so will just have to be careful.

There was a phone message from my aunt in Tasmania, to say that dad’s youngest brother had died. Sad – he was the uncle we bowled with, when in Devonport a year ago.

We had a pig-out on a high-carb lunch from the bakery, but it did not make us feel any better.

We drove back around past the caravan park and south into the Cape Range National Park, and on to the Milyering Visitors Centre. Got some more information about snorkelling there and found out that at least some exploring around Turquoise Bay should be safe enough.

We continued south to Turquoise Bay. It was just as beautiful as the name suggested.

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Turquoise Bay

We walked on the beach there and watched snorkellers, and decided that we would come back tomorrow and do it ourselves, since we’ve bought the gear. Somewhat unfortunately, I think, the Turquoise Bay Drift is now very much on the Britz hire-car backpacker circuit.

Then we went on to the Oyster Stacks, then Sandy Bay, where John had a fish – no luck. There had been great schools of whiting at Turquoise Bay, which of course, is a Marine Sanctuary, so no fishing there. John says “not fair”!

I did a long beach walk while John fished, I do so enjoy my beach walks, and will miss them when we are home and distant from same.

It was late afternoon when we drove back and there were lots of little kangaroos by the road sides. I have never seen so many beside roads. We had to be very careful and drive slowly.

For tea, John had the accumulated fish catch. I had a tin of tuna and some salad.


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2000 Travels October 22

SUNDAY 22 OCTOBER    EXMOUTH

We had a lazy morning.

It seems that they are only cleaning the amenities here every three days or so. I am not impressed!

I made flat breads for lunch.

After lunch, went with John  to fish at Point Murat again. I caught a dart, which was our only catch.

On the way back, we had strong bars on the mobile phone, so I phoned K to see if the long-ordered family history books had arrived from Tasmania. They had. A loose end tied up.

K then dropped a total bombshell. They have just bought a house and are moving out of ours on December 15! The justification was that they want to qualify for the first home owners grant and it “might” be abolished soon. I doubt that, but guess it makes economic sense for them to buy their own place. I just thought that they would stay the originally planned  five years and save for all of that time.

So – we will have to go home! There are the two cats, and we also do not want the place left empty.

I felt like I had been punched in the gut, betrayed.

We now had only seven and a half weeks left of the trip, instead of a bit over two years. Once seven weeks would have seemed a long holiday, but now it seems no time at all.

All I could think of was all the special places “saved up” for the coming couple of years, and the places further north in WA that we rushed or passed by because of the Olympics thing.

I found it really hard to come to terms with the imminent ending of this wonderful, free, lifestyle. Even if we get to do some shorter trips, it will never again be like this.

I am definitely not ready to return to suburbia!

Although John has been saying he wanted to go home, now it has actually become reality, he too says he is not ready for it to happen yet. Maybe that’s a case of not knowing what he had, till it was gone?

We have a lot of WA – and southern Australia – left to cover in a few short weeks!

Back at the van, I checked the maps. We are actually at the furthest point from Melbourne, on the Australian mainland! And we have to make our way home from that.

We will just have to resolve to enjoy the remaining few weeks, the best we can.

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A way of life that will soon be ending……..

I cooked steak and mushrooms for tea, but neither of us had much appetite.

A sad, sad day.


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2000 Travels October 21

SATURDAY 21 OCTOBER     EXMOUTH

It was the same weather again, but a bit windy.

John decided to go try fishing around at Point Murat. I did not feel like that, so opted to stay back at the van, reading and sewing.

There was an emu that regularly wandered through the campground and checked us out. Pigeons and butcher birds also hang about, looking out for any food on offer.

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Just visiting

John caught a garfish and a small flounder.

Tea was stir fry chicken with lemon and capers – different and very nice.


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2000 Travels October 19

THURSDAY 19 OCTOBER     EXMOUTH

It was warm – probably low 30’s – but with a breeze for most of the day.

I had an upset stomach this morning. The prawns? Or the local water, which is very salty, on the prawns?

John drove into Exmouth to check out bowls, look for a replacement tube for the jockey wheel, make some phone calls.

I was not feeling very energetic, so read and sewed.

Later in the afternoon, we went for a long walk on the beach. It was rather too sloping for comfortable walking though.

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Cape coast

Walked up the lighthouse lookout road, which was closed to vehicles due to restoration work on the lighthouse. There were great views from up there. The surrounding land is so flat. I think we may have seen some splashes from whales?

Vlaming Head Lighthouse was built in the early 1900’s, but ceased operation in the 1960’s, after navigation lights were put in at the then new NW Cape Communications Base. Until WW2 this was a really isolated area, with supplies having to come by sea, or overland from Onslow – sometimes via camel.

The original lighthouse keeper’s house is part of the caravan park now.

The town of Exmouth did not begin until the building of the US Base at NW Cape in the 60’s. Its function was to house workers building the base, then some of the American personnel manning it, and their families.

The thirteen towers of the Base dominate the outlook as one drives from Exmouth around the Cape to the ocean side. Back in the 60’s it was controversial, being thought to be a potential target in the event of war with Russia.

Tea was honey beef stir fry, with packet noodles.

I found it very hard to stay awake, after tea, so had a very early night.


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2000 Travels October 20

FRIDAY 20 OCTOBER     EXMOUTH

Another day with temperatures about the mid 30’s.

At the caravan park shop, I bought us each a set of flippers, snorkel and mask. Cost me $103. This coast is an excellent one for snorkelling. The Ningaloo coral reef is not far offshore and in places comes really close to the beach. That reef is not as well known as the Great Barrier Reef, but is equally beautiful. It is also not as long, only extending for about 300kms along the coast.

Until we came through this way in 1993, I did not even know there was a coral reef in WA!

Going snorkelling here and at Coral Bay has definitely been on the to-do list for this trip. There is a supposedly brilliant snorkel here – at Turquoise Bay – where one enters the water and is carried along by a current, or drift, over lots of coral, to the bay. This morning’s purchase was to enable us to do this.

We drove into Exmouth and collected the mail. The Telstra share material was in it, so I completed the necessary paperwork in the Post Office, and mailed that off.

I had a haircut.

John bought some more fishing tackle and oddments.

Did some food shopping.

We went to the Tourist Information Centre. There was a sign up, warning of extra strong currents at Turquoise Bay, and advising that the snorkel drift should not be tackled. Damn!

On the drive back, deviated to go look at Point Murat – the tip of the NW Cape.

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North West Cape

In the very late afternoon, drove back into Exmouth again, to buy fish and chips for tea. They were expensive and only average.


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2000 Travels October 18

WEDNESDAY 18 OCTOBER   ONSLOW TO EXMOUTH   444kms

We were up early and managed an efficient final pack and departure, getting away at 8am.

It was a fairly tedious drive, back over to the highway, then south. John is missing trees! There were not many around Onslow. The prevailing vegetation in the country we drove through today was low scrub. There was a section of jump up country beside the highway, for a while, for a bit of interest.

We stopped at the Ashburton River, near Nanutarra Roadhouse, for a coffee break.

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The Ashburton River again – near Nanutarra Roadhouse

The section of WA that we have covered from Port Hedland to Nanutarra has been new to us. In 1993, going north, we turned off at Nanutarra and went inland through the Pilbara, not returning to the coastal regions until Port Hedland. So that gap has been filled in.

I drove for a while.

We ate lunch as we drove. John was anxious to get to Exmouth to try to sort out the phone situation. We have become dependent on it!

We took a gravel road short cut, from the highway to the Exmouth road, via “Giralia”. It was a reasonable road and easy enough to drive.

We passed the airfield and RAAF base at Learmonth. Not long after that, reached the Kailis prawn factory just before their closing time of 1pm. I bought 2kg of Endeavour prawns for $13 a kilo. I was pleased with that.

We parked the rig near the shopping centre at Exmouth and went to Betta Electricals. Putting in a new sim card did not make the phone work. The young assistant was mystified. We found out that we could get a new phone, at no cost, as long as we renewed our contract for a year. We did not really have much choice, so acquired a new CDMA phone. Changed the plan to one for $35 a month that gave us a cheaper call rate. We could possibly save more by combining our bill with the one at home – but K is paying that, so it would be complicated. But will investigate that further.

Refuelled Truck – $1.22cpl.

We did a quick shop and then went on out to the Lighthouse Caravan Park – “around the corner”, 19kms from town. The park was a bit rustic, but adequate. It was near enough to the sea for us to hear it, even if we couldn’t see it. There was a pool and we had a fair sized site. We paid $121 for a week.

After setting up, I peeled the prawns, which took some time. I froze half. We had the rest for tea, with lettuce and bread. They were delectable.

The TV here was pretty limited – WIN and GWN only – but the picture quality was good.

John phoned K and had a chat, after tea. All is well there. The mail was sent yesterday.

10-18-2000 exmouth