This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


2002 Travels November 8 – December 8


Back to getting up to the alarm clock! Early – in order to have time for breakfast and to pack the day’s food.

We found that the drive to Giru usually took about half an hour, for the 40 or so kms, but we tended to allow 45 minutes, because we had to negotiate some town traffic in Ayr.

It was a pretty drive, through farmland growing sugar cane and mangoes. One we did not get sick of. Morning traffic was not bad as we usually had to start work at 7.30 or 8am, so were heading through Ayr quite early. It was also mostly quite cool at that time of day.

As our time at Ayr progressed more towards the wet season, there would sometimes be some really dramatic storm cloud build-ups, to see as we drove our beaten path. There were some really heavy rain downpours too. Some nights we worked until late, so were driving back in the dark.

We took our packed lunches and drinks for the day – there were no shops anywhere near the packing shed, and our breaks were not long. I soon got into the habit of packing something we could eat for tea, as well, if it looked even remotely likely that we could be doing a late run of fruit. The little esky chiller, with a couple of cans of cold Coke in, kept the food cool.

Our first day was getting oriented, and doing training.

I was assigned to the packing lines, and John initially to the washing area.

There were numbers of other workers in the shed – variable in number, but generally about 20 or so – often not enough! There were desappers, sorters, packers, forklift drivers, people who put labels on the fruit (after packing) and closed boxes, and quality control checkers. Outside, there were the pickers.

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Picking mangoes

The workers ranged from grey nomads like ourselves, who were essentially travellers, to older people (and a few younger) who followed the “harvest trail” around the country – moving from one seasonal fruit/vegetable, to the next in another part of the country. There were some overseas backpackers.

We were told by some of the old hands, who had worked here previous seasons, that the local workers now refused to work in this shed, and some of the harvest trail workers also would not return, because of the two women who managed the shed. They had managed it for a couple of the previous seasons and had gained a reputation. They were a couple and were quite nasty people – and very poor bosses to work for. They were rude and abusive to workers and downright bullies. The few backpackers who started with us did not last long, as they were particular targets and refused to take the treatment meted out to them.

A few of the harvest trail types had rigs parked out behind the packing shed. I think there were some primitive facilities out there for them. A few were at Ayr, like us. The backpackers were in hostels in Ayr.

Picking the mangoes was a male province. The mangoes were picked from the ground level, using long poles. In theory they were still somewhat green and were picked in the afternoons. They sat overnight, in crates, outside, with stems still attached. This allowed the sap to settle in the stems and stem attachment area.

The next day, they went to the washing area in the shed. Here, they were de-sapped, by removing the stems, whilst holding the fruit upside down. This was sone under running water, partly because the sap was very caustic to people’s skin, and partly because any sap contacting the mango skin would leave a sap burn that would later cause the fruit to rot in its box, and potentially ruin a whole box of fruit. We quickly learned that the great enemy was sap burn!

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Desapping mangoes

Desappers wore long, heavy gloves, and skin protectors, and waterproof aprons. It was a messy job. Most of the desappers were female backpackers.

Occasionally a snake of some sort would find its way into a mango crate during the night, and then cause a major stir in the desapping area when it surfaced next day.

From the washing area, the fruit moved on conveyor belt rollers to the sorting tables in the adjacent section of shed. Rotating rollers moved the fruit along – the speed of movement could be varied by the bosses, but it was always fairly fast.

Sorters stood in a line each side of the sorting “tables” – the rollers – and picked out any fruit they saw that was sap burnt, had marked skin, was undersized  – or was ripe. Packed mangoes had to be still green – after storage, they would be gassed to ripen them at the required time.

The sorters closest to where the fruit arrived from the washing area, were the busiest, those at the far end often had few problems left to find. They rotated their order regularly. The sorters often looked quite comical, scrabbling away really quickly, grabbing fruit with both hands as it passed by them, and dropping their reject finds onto a small separate conveyor belt in front of them, from where it would go into the bins to be sold for juicing.

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John working on the sorting table

Some of the ripe ones were kept aside so staff could take them. We ate a lot of mango in those weeks!

A surprisingly small proportion of the desapped mangoes actually made it from the sorting tables to the packing area. The bosses would periodically check over a selection of the rejected fruit, to make sure that the sorters were not discarding good mangoes.

The sorters were a mix of men and women.

Runs of mangoes were done by type. This shed worked mostly with Kensington Pride mangoes – or KP’s. Later in our time there, we had some runs of R2E2’s – a much larger fruit that was destined for the Japanese markets, for Xmas, where they were expected to fetch over $20 per mango! Extra care was taken with the R2E2 runs.

From the sorting area, the fruit was conveyed along a line that automatically sorted by size. Size was designated by the number of mangoes packed to a standard box. e.g. 20’s fitted 20 in a box; 22’s fitted 22. KP’s ranged mostly from a very few 14’s, through to 24’s – but mostly 18, 20 and 22.

A packer would work at a packing station where fruit of all one size was delivered via a roller belt, at about eye height, into a large bin beside the packer. They would pack on a small bench area then push each filled box onto a lower roller belt for delivery to the end area of the shed, for labelling and sealing.

There were different packing patterns for each size, to fit the right number of mangoes into the box in a way that would protect the fruit during transit. I learned the main patterns on the first day – and there were diagrams stuck up at each packing station to jog the memory. The mangoes were always lined up in their box pointing in the same direction and the same way up. so the appearance was a very uniform one.

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Packing. Note the uniform layout of fruit packed in the box

A packer had to work fairly quickly – almost frantically at times when there was a lot of fruit and the bosses speeded up all the processes. If a bin overflowed the fruit could not be packed, but had to go for juicing, so there could be considerable pressure not to let this happen. Packers had no control over the rate of fruit delivery – if the speed at which fruit was delivered from the wash to the sorting tables was hastened, or if two or three sorting tables were operating, things got busy at our end! The pressure was not helped by the bullying tactics of the nasty bosses.

Packers also had to be on constant watch for any faulty fruit that had been missed by the sorters – usually with sap burn – so one had to pick a mango out of the bin, turn it over and inspect it, as part of the packing process.

Sometimes, if some of the sizes did not have many coming through, those of us packing would have to keep watch on the bins on either side of us, and move to packing at any station where the bin was getting close to overflowing.

A packer would take a box from a conveyor belt above head height – assembled elsewhere – and put the box on the bench in front of you. You would pack it, then slide the box forward onto the lower rollers, and it would trundle away.

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The packing line

The whole process was really quite interesting, and had it not been for those two bosses, I would really have enjoyed the job. It could be very tiring, some days, although we got regulation breaks – mid-morning and afternoon, and lunch – which helped greatly. The shed was not too hot, mostly, though one often worked up a good sweat.

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Lunch time in the packing shed

John found the rubber gloves of the desapping lines really irritated his skin, so after a few days he moved to the sorting tables, which he enjoyed. I sometimes got drafted to sorting, too. John did a little bit of packing, but the boss woman in that part of the shed did not want men workers in her section – she could bully females better!

The end section where labelling sealing etc were done, and the boxes forklifted off into the cold storage room, was staffed predominantly by men – the partners of some of the packers.

There was a Sungold packing shed across the road from ours. They worked set hours – 8am till 5pm – and the workers there received a set wage. Our shed – which  handled fruit from several different plantations, including that trucked down from Townsville – worked hours according to fruit supply. That was why we were paid by the hour. There were a few days when we worked from 7am till 11 at night! That was great for the pay packet, but exhausting.

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Mango orchard at Giru

We worked also to a rule that said if there was a breakdown or a problem in the shed, that was under the company’s control, then we got paid for any time spent waiting around for the place to become operational again. If there was an external problem, out of company control, like a power outage, we did not get paid for waiting around time. That only happened once, when the power went down, and after a little while we were sent home early, so that was fair.

As well as our pay, we received the mandated superannuation. We were happy with our wages – some weeks, we banked over $2000 between us.

The shed operated 7 days a week, when the fruit was ready, so we rarely had days off. The biggest problem this caused was that we soon found it hard to get provisions. We were away in the mornings before the shops opened, and home after they had closed. We just had to stock up on the rare occasions that we finished early – and hope. I managed to always have some mangoes – the ripe rejects from work – to eat at “home”, if all else failed. We always had these for breakfast. Did not get sick of them, at all.

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R2E2 mangoes – freebies

Doing the washing was another issue – but the park laundry had really liberal hours, so running a machine at 10pm was permitted , even if it wasn’t desirable from my viewpoint.

So we cherished the rare days off!

I found the other workers in the sorting and packing areas to be very pleasant, and interesting. After the mangoes were finished, some would head to Victoria for the Goulburn Valley fruit harvest, or to Mildura for the citrus and grape harvests. Then they would return to Qld for the beans and tomatoes of the Bowen area. Some had started with the earlier mango season around Cairns and followed them south. We gained interesting insights into that way of life, which seemed to be a healthy and comfortable one for those on the harvest trail. They had holiday periods in between the various harvests, travelling slowly or going a long way round to see different places.

Mango work had its hazards. While we were there, a backpacker got a spray of mango sap in her eyes and had to go to hospital. Some people developed “mango rash” – a sensitivity to the fruit – and had to stop working with them. Towards the end of my time there. I had some small, itchy, rash areas on my arms, but thought it was just heat rash. We sweated quite a lot in the sheds.

John walked into the tow hitch on the back of Truck and took a chunk out of his shin. This became infected after a couple of days, and he ended up having to go to the outpatients department at Ayr Hospital for treatment. A fortuitous early finish one afternoon was very timely, here. Once the wound was dressed, and he had some anti-biotics, he kept going to work.

One afternoon, when we were told there would be a late run of fruit, one of the backpacker girls asked nastier boss if she could finish by 9pm, because there was a farewell party at the hostel for friends who were leaving, and for her birthday. We actually finished the packing a bit before 9, but then nasty boss deliberately assigned that girl to the clean up team – washing off the rollers, tidying up and the like, so she didn’t finish until after 10pm. It was after this little exercise of power that the backpackers all stopped working at the shed.

Over the weeks, the workers – including us – had become increasingly fed up with the antics of this woman. Other people found it too much, and left, so at times we were really short on the sorting and packing areas.

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Mangoes ready for picking

The harvest was supposed to continue well into December and probably into the New Year. We had initially intended to go the full distance, into January, but along with many of the older staff, began talking about pulling out too. I couldn’t understand why the main company management let these two women run the shed, given the labour problems they created.

John was actually fairly keen to be home for Xmas.

The last straw for us came on Saturday 7th December.  We’d had storms and a power outage a couple of days before, that stopped a whole day’s work, so there was a backlog of fruit.

Another nomad couple had been put on and the lady was learning the packing, and was doing quite well, I thought. It did take a few days to get properly into the routine of the different packing layouts, to the point of doing them evenly and quickly. The bosses decided to run a third sorting table, thus tripling the usual quantity of fruit coming the way of the by now very under-staffed packing area.

We were packing like crazy, and were told off because some fruit bins overflowed – there were just not enough workers to keep up with the volume of fruit arriving. The new lady, with bins about to overflow on either side of her, called out that we needed help, over here. The response of boss lady was “Well, you bitches will just have to f****** pack faster!” Really helpful, that. Then there was the tirade, in the same vein, once the bins did overflow.

That was it, for me. At the later than usual lunch break I told John we were out of the place. Some of the others left with us.

So we drove the commute back to Ayr for the last time. As it happened, the sky was suitably stormy.

We used our last day in Ayr – Sunday – to get the van tidied and gear packed away, do the washing, fuel up Truck, say farewell to friends we had made in the park. Over our time at Ayr, given our lengthy commute to Giru each day, we’d bought diesel several times  at the Woolworth’s servo at prices from 80-82cpl.

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Farewell drinks at the caravan park

In the laundry, I dropped my glasses on the tiled floor and broke them. New glasses would be on the agenda, when we got home again.

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No fixing these!

Over our time in the park, our weekly metered power bill had varied between $5.50 and $12.85, depending on the hours we worked and were not home. We had not been running the somewhat noisy air con on the hot nights, relying instead on the box fan set up on the table at the far end of the van and blowing air our way. With this and the good cross ventilation from the windows at each end of the bed, we were fine.

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2002 Travels November 7


So we trundled back north, along the Bruce Highway recently driven. Through the sugarcane country, across the big silver Burdekin bridge at Home Hill, back into Ayr, where we booked into the Big 4 Silver Link Caravan Park.

We had already established that we would get a worker’s deal at this caravan park – $72 a week, but with power metered and separately paid for. That was fair enough, as this was getting well into air-con season! The park was of a good standard, with modern, very clean amenities.

We set up camp for an extended stay, then drove to refuel Truck – at the Woolworths outlet diesel was 82cpl. Then checked out the shops and bought some supplies. I bought a small Esky chiller, for transporting our lunch and drinks.

Our caravan site was shaded by large mango trees. With ripening mangoes on!

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Under the mango trees at Silver Link Caravan Park

There were a number of other workers camped in the park. Our’s was not the only packing shed in the vicinity, so some of the others worked in other sheds. We were later able to compare workplace experiences with some.

We were both looking forward to the new experience that would start tomorrow. We had to report to the shed at Giru at 8am.

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2002 Travels October 29 – November 6


The caravan park was an older one, with some permanent residents, in a very pleasant location. The road to the park was a narrow one, with wide green grass verges and lots of trees. it ended at a small headland by Eimeo Creek inlet, so there was very little passing traffic.

I found it most enjoyable to walk along the road to a shop where I could get papers and basic items. The beach was also pleasant walking.

There were lots of plumed whistling ducks making themselves at home in the park, and soon around our site.

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Plumed whistling ducks quite at home

We did do some exploring in our time here, and also made a couple of brief forays into the main shops in Mackay. It was always lovely, though, to return to our beachfront park. A diesel refill cost 84cpl.

One day, we drove out to Finch Hatton, to the west of Mackay. The road through the flat, sugar cane country of the Pioneer River valley, was really scenic, with the Great Dividing Range looming steadily closer, and the valley sides eventually closing in.

We decided to go up the Range, to Eungella, before visiting Finch Hatton Gorge, at the base of the Range, on the way back. If we did not have time for that on the same day, we could always come out again another day, without having to drive up the Range again.

The road up the Range climbed steadily. It featured some impressive roadside drops, signs warning of possible falling rocks, and some very sharp hairpin bends. No way would we ever contemplate bringing the van up here!

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Road to Eungella twisting up the Range

At the top of the Range was the small village of Eungella; we continued past this to the  Eungella National Park. Here, we walked a circuit, taking in some of the rainforest for which the area was noted, and the Sky Window – a lookout point that gave an awesome vista down the Pioneer Valley.

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Pioneer Valley from Sky Window

It was cooler up the top, so walking in the forest was reasonably comfortable. Even this late in the dry season, there were flowing streams.

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Eungella pool

After a careful descent back down the Range, we deviated to The Finch Hatton Gorge area. It was hot here, and there was very little water in the creek, so we did not walk far, but in our meanderings did spot a new bird – the Eungella honey eater, which is only found in a small area around here. That was a rewarding find.

Another day, just for something to do, we drove out the Peak Downs Highway. This took a far easier route up the Range, with only a couple of tight bends. We went as far as the township of Copabella, noting that there looked to be some mining activity in that area. Retraced our way back to Mackay.

We also did some exploring of back roads closer to Mackay, finding the farming country and little valleys interesting. I noted that some of the names here replicated the classical ones found in Tasmania – Mt Ossa, Mt Pelion, Mt Jukes.

Drove out to Cape Hillsborough National Park and walked on the beach there. We liked the caravan park there, and noted it for a possible future visit.

As the month ticked over into November, and we had not heard about work, eventually phoned the NAP person, and were told to report for work at Giru on Friday 8th. That provided us with some certainty about what we would be doing next.

Refuelled Truck for the drive north – still 84cpl.

It was good to end this period of rather being in limbo, although the stay at Bucasia Beach was really quite an enjoyable one.

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2002 Travels October 28


We very thankfully left Midge Point, and headed further south.

We had not ever explored the Mackay area, and this was still within a day’s drive of Ayr, if the work came through.

Not to be deterred by our recent experience, we checked out another seaside caravan park, at Bucasia Beach, a little to the north of Mackay. They assured us that there were no sandflies, and no mangroves, so we committed. The site cost $18 a night, with the seventh night free. We felt fairly confident in booking for a week, but were unsure how long we would stay after that.

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2002 Travels October 22 – 27


The name should have told me to be wary! Midge Point! Yep – midges in the form of sandflies. Not just in the early morning and late afternoon, as we had previously encountered in tropical coastal locations, but all day.

Whilst the place itself was idyllic, the bugs totally spoiled it for us. It was probably really great in the cooler months, hence the glowing reports we’d heard, but we certainly landed in the full-on sandfly season.

There was a very pleasant beach fronting the park, but the ability to go walking on it was hampered by the ever-present midges.

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Beach by the Midge Point Caravan Park

From the beach we could see some of the many islands that make up the Whitsunday Group, in the distance.

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The Whitsunday Islands from Midge Point

Could also see some of the areas of coastal mangroves in places along the beach, and in the creek at the southern end of the beach. The extent of these in this area helped explain the midges.

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John reacted badly to the bites he received in the first couple of days, while we were still realizing the full prevalence of these critters through the daytime. We had to drive into Proserpine so that he could obtain some anti-histamines from a chemist. He was feeling too poorly with his itches and swellings, for us to do any looking around the town, so we retreated  back to the van. Refilled Truck whilst in Proserpine – 89cpl.

John spent most of the week holed up in the van, playing computer games, even after the anti-histamines began to do their work. I didn’t fare much better – copious applications of repellent didn’t seem to offer much protection.

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Idyllic surroundings can be deceptive

Not one of my better choices!


2002 Travels October 21


From other travellers, I had heard glowing reports of a caravan park at Midge Point, near Proserpine. It seemed a more peaceful alternative to staying at the nearby backpacker haven of Airlie Beach. This was an ideal time, I thought, to satisfy my curiosity about this place.

We drove south from Townsville, passing through Giru and wondering whether the mango shed work there would really eventuate. Initially the way south from Townsville was quite hilly, but closer to Giru the land flattened out, with just the Dividing Range in the western distance. Great fields of sugar cane appeared and then some mango plantations.

From Giru to Ayr was through flat, sugar cane growing country. Ayr was a good sized town. We would get to know it better if we came to stay here. Just south of Ayr, we crossed the impressive metal bridge over the Burdekin River. It is all metal girders and struts and the overall impression is rather temple like. This bridge is almost as long as the Sydney Harbour Bridge and testament to the sometimes huge floods of the river, with its large catchment area.

Just across the river was the large Inkerman sugar mill.

Beyond Home Hill township, the sugar cane country soon gave way to grazing lands – not as interesting to drive through. There were some pockets of crop land though, especially around Bowen, and closer to Prosperpine.

The highway skirted Prosperpine, then several kms south of the town, we turned onto a road that would take us past the Laguna Quays resort development to Midge Point.

We booked into the Travellers Rest Caravan Park – $97 for the week, after Top Tourist discount. Then we set up in what appeared as a very attractive, lush, green, shaded, tropical park.

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Midge Point Caravan Park

There were almost no other guests, a fact that I initially put down to the time of year, well outside the tourist season.

There were peacocks wandering about the grounds. A male made us a great display of his tail feathers.

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Peacock display – from the wrong side

We were not far from a beach, just down a little walk track, but decided to leave exploring until tomorrow, and just relax for the rest of the afternoon. However, sitting outside and enjoying the lush surrounds did not last for long, as the bities soon arrived. We retreated inside.

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2002 Travels October 7-20


The two weeks here seemed to go by really quickly, without us doing a great deal that was interesting. It was hot, even at the coast, and that really sapped our energy and motivation.

Townsville, we already knew, from a brief time here in ’98, was a good sized city, with lots and lots of shops – in which we spent some time. After the previous months, I had a new appreciation of shops – and choices! I really enjoyed having a full range of goods available – especially foodstuffs. Even had my hair cut – months since it had been cut by a proper hairdresser, though John had managed a reasonable effort, a couple of times.

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From postcard of Townsville. Our caravan park was behind beach on right

We availed ourselves of the fishermens’ co-op store, across in South Townsville. Bought fish and prawns there, visiting a couple of times, and stocking up the freezebox before we left.

Diesel here was so much cheaper – our first refill cost 80cpl.

John played a number of games of bowls. With several bowls clubs in Townsville, he had no shortage of options to choose from. He won a pedestal fan, which we decided to take home.

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We walked along the Strand – the walking path through park lands, by the sea. Sometimes I walked the Strand on my own, navigating through some streets and parks from the caravan park, to reach the Strand. Sometimes I walked in the other direction, along Rowes Bay beach and Cape Pallarenda road. I had a new appreciation both of being by the sea, and being able to walk around freely and safely.

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The Strand

Along the Strand was a fabulous water playground, the likes of which I had not seen before. There were all sorts of imaginative ways of playing and getting wet, from gently little streams falling from a high mushroom shape, to a large and sudden dump of water from a big bucket. It might have been designed for children, but I was very tempted…….

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Water play area along the Strand

We took a day trip to Magnetic Island, which one could see across the bay from Townsville. Caught one of the regular ferries across there. John was not keen on hiring a little runabout so we could get around the Island, which I’d wanted to do. We only had a few hours over there, having gotten rather a late start in the morning.

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Magnetic Island. Mainland and Townsville in background

We caught a bus from the ferry landing around to Nelly Bay, and then walked about, a bit. That was about the extent of it – couldn’t say we really saw that much of the place, which has a number of permanent residents, who commute over to Townsville.

We visited a gallery that we walked past – had not set out originally to do so. They had some quite striking pottery. We finished up buying a large, bulbous vase/urn shaped piece by Peter Andersson, finished with a rough orange and earth colour surface. It would not have been my first choice, but John really liked it. We arranged for it to be sent home; we would contact them when we were there, to send it.

We attempted to contact the lass who was the cook at Adels, who we thought would be home from there, by now. But she wasn’t. We talked with her mother, though.

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Site at Rowe’s Bay

When we were driving around South Townsville one day, John saw an auction house/second hand dealer. He loves looking around such places, so in we went. We finished up buying a new porta-cot, at a very good price, to be a present for my daughter, whose first child is due in February. Some juggling about of contents allowed us to fit the porta-cot into Truck.

John’s older daughter was also to have her first child, in March. At least not staying on in Doomadgee would allow us to be closer to the daughters, at that time.

One late afternoon, the Army (there is a strong defense force presence in Townsville) had some sort of ceremonial event, held on a park area by the Strand. We saw, over preceding days, the setting up for this, blocking off some streets, erecting a little castle like structure, and the like. On the set afternoon, we parked as close as we could get and then walked some distance to watch. There was a fair sized crowd turned out for it, but we never did work out quite what it was all about! It seemed to be just a ceremony, with a lot of marching, but not all that interesting. However, I did like getting to meet the little white shetland pony that was the regimental mascot.

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Military event in park by the Strand

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One day, John was browsing through the Townsville paper, and saw an advertisement for workers wanted for the coming mango harvest season. NAP – North Australian Plantations – were advertising. John was off and away again! Enthusiastic – just as he had been about Doomadgee. He said that we had camped lots of times in the shade of mango trees, and it would be interesting to stick around, for once, for when the fruit was ripe, and for the harvest. He was really into money-making mode now!

I did not mind the idea, and our house sitter was very amenable to us staying away!

So, John phoned the given number. Although NAP had mango plantations around Townsville, their main farms and packing sheds were 50kms south, at Giru.

We were asked to drive down there, one day, for a brief interview, which we duly did. Were told that we would be contacted when the harvest began – probably early November. We would work in the packing shed at Giru. We would be paid by the hour, at what seemed a reasonable rate. The number of hours worked each day would vary with the ripening of the fruit.

It would be a “different” experience, anyway.

While we were down at Giru, checked out where we could bring the van, to stay. The initial option – a sort-of caravan place just out of Giru, seemed rather run down and not at all welcoming.

We drove further south – another 37kms – to Ayr, where we inspected a caravan park and decided that would suit us fine. We would just have to manage the commute to Giru.

Thus we were left with an uncertain amount of time to fill in, before starting work again. The idea of staying on in Townsville was not really attractive. It seemed better to use the time to do some tourist type exploring in other places – maybe even as far away as a day’s drive from Ayr. We focussed on the area to the south, because if the mango work did not happen, then we would still be on our way home.

We stayed a day longer than the two weeks in Townsville, to give John an extra game of bowls. On his way, he filled Truck – 82cpl.

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2002 Travels October 6


Today was a really long and hot day of driving. We continued east to the Kennedy Development Road, then south east to Charters Towers, then east again to Townsville. Back in ’98, we’d spent time at Charters Towers, so didn’t feel the need to stop there again.

Refuelled at the Lynd Junction Roadhouse – 97cpl.

The Kennedy Development Road was still a single strip of bitumen, but being Sunday we did not meet much oncoming traffic on it.

Booked into the Rowes Bay Caravan Park, in Townsville – chosen because it was across a road from the beach. It was $20 a night, but with the 7th night free.

The park was a mix of tourist and permanent sites, which were all fairly small. There was quite a backpacker presence there, but it was adequate for our needs.

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2002 Travels October 4-5


When we first stayed here, in 1998, it was also in early to mid October, and then we were here for two weeks. Back then, Jo and Joe had not had the park open for long, and had done a huge amount of work already, to develop it from scratch. We were impressed then, and were more so this time, They were still super busy and ultra hospitable.

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The plantings between the sites had really grown up

It was interesting to see how the park had come on. The plantings between the sites – all drive through – had really grown in the four year interval, and were providing both shade and lush screening between the sites. There were more, and better, communal facilities.

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Site at Bedrock Village

After my Adels Grove experience, I was pleased to see this place providing some special meal nights for guests. On the Friday night, there were some passengers from the Savannahlander train staying, and we availed ourselves of the BBQ and salad tea that was put on for these and for those from the campground who wanted to join in.

The increased popularity of this park meant that there were now extra staff working there. I noted that as potential future work?

The little township had developed a bit more, with a special gem and gem field tour shop operating, to the nearby O’Briens Creek topaz fields. But the general store and hotel were still the same.

There was an emu roaming the caravan park, with his chicks, while we were there – they provided us with some entertainment.

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Daddy emu and his brood

Apart from having a bit of a roam around the township, on foot, we did very little here, preferring just to swim in the lovely pool, and relax in general. I did quite a bit of my embroidery, on the place mats I was making for step daughter.

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2002 Travels October 3


School holidays were over, near enough. We had run out of things of interest in Karumba. It really is geared to people who boat and fish. The heat was becoming enervating. So it was time for us to move on, further east.

Between Normanton and Croydon, on the Gulf Development Road, we got a flat front tyre on Truck. The current tyres were getting quite old and worn, and had taken a hammering on the rough roads of the past few months. There was plenty of flat road side to pull over on to, to change the wheel – but it was all quite densely covered in cow pats! One had to be careful where stepping. And it smelled very strongly of cow.

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One wrong step…….

This road, as far as Georgetown, was still a route we had not travelled before, as all had been since we left Mt Isa, back in June. Actually, that had been the case for much of this year’s trip, to date.

In 1998, we had spent some time at Mt Surprise, and explored the surrounding area quite a bit then, coming as far west as Georgetown, on our way to Forsayth and Cobbold Gorge.

Wheel changed, we continued on, refuelling at Croydon, where diesel was 99.1cpl. We were initially surprised that it was dearer than at Karumba Point, but then realized that it probably came in by ship through that port, or Normanton.

Much of the road, though sealed, was a single width only. Fortunately, there was not much oncoming traffic, so we rarely had to move off the bitumen onto the gravel sides.

We did not stop to do touristy things in Croydon – it was a hot day and we’d decided to cover distance. Another time.

We crossed the wide and dry Gilbert River, between  Croydon and Georgetown, and then the equally dry Etheridge at Georgetown.

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These single-vehicle-width bridges are quite common in the outback

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The Gilbert River in the late Dry season

Booked into the Bedrock Village Caravan Park at Mt Surprise – $16 a night. Being after the main tourist season, there were not many other travellers in the park.

It was getting well on in the afternoon by the time we reached Mt Surprise, so all we did was set up our camp and relax. After tea, it was an early night to bed.

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