The most pleasant part about it was the views across to the Great Dividing Range in the distance, for much of the way. The country was, as usual, green and lush, for the most part – at least until the industrial Latrobe Valley intruded.
From Pakenham, took the back route through the Dandenongs, home.
So, we had been away for a month.
I can’t say that it was the greatest trip we’d done! Being winter did not help much – cool to cold, damp to downright sodden, for much of the time. The business of trying to meet up with family had been frustrating, and emotionally challenging for John. But I did get to acquire my lovely new bowls bag, and did gain some more knowledge of coastal places we had never stayed at before.
I now had a much clearer idea of places to revisit, in better weather.
We had, since retiring and starting long range trips in 1998, always said that we would “save up” the nearer parts of SA, Vic and NSW, for when we were no longer fit enough, or inclined, to undertake the long and challenging adventures. This little jaunt had given me information to store up for those times.
WEDNESDAY 25 JUNE BERMAGUI TO LAKES ENTRANCE 350kms
Given that John wanted to make a substantial inroad into the trip home, today, there was no dawdling about in the morning. Up early, and away just after 9am.
We had to go back northwards for a little way, across the inlet again, before turning onto the Cobargo road. This took us initially through forested hilly country, then hilly farming country. Double white lines for much of the way.
In Cobargo, John bought his still, and all sorts of associated paraphernalia to go with it. I remained uninvolved. I hoped that, once we got back home, and other distractions arose, the whole thing would be shelved and never used. I wondered if I could somehow mislay the instruction leaflets?
Driving as far as Lakes Entrance took up much of the rest of the day. The Princes Highway through southern NSW and far eastern Victoria, is not a route for fast travel.
We stopped, again, at Cann River, to walk around and eat our packed lunches.
Went back into the Waters Edge Caravan Park, for a night. $25.20.
Walked to the floating seafood sales place, again, and bought fish for tonight’s dinner, and some to put in the little van freezer, to take home.
After a leisurely start to the day, John went driving, off to Cobargo, a township on the Princes Highway, some 20kms away. He knew of an establishment there that sold stills, and he was interested in buying one. A few years ago, he was offered – by a fellow camper at an out of the way spot – a glass of whisky that the guy had distilled himself. John thought it tasted pretty good, and yet another “John idea” germinated…
I was concerned about the legalities, or otherwise, of home produced spirits, really wished John wouldn’t contemplate same, and didn’t want to have anything to do with it. So I stayed away.
I went for a long walk through the village. The day was fine and cool – good for walking and looking around. The constantly pretty outlooks made it really enjoyable.
The inlet at Bermagui
I called in at the fish co-op. They did not have much of a range available, because of the bad weather that there had been, but I bought some fish for our tea.
John came back with information about the still to peruse. Later that evening, he decided that we would tomorrow, go via Cobargo, instead of continuing on the coastal road through Tathra. He would stop at Cobargo and buy himself a still. Bugger!
Today’s was another short move and thus a fairly leisurely start.
I had heard of Bermagui as a major holiday destination for some folk, but, because it was off the Princes Highway, had never even passed through it before, so I was looking forward to seeing somewhere totally new.
South of the Tilba area we turned off the highway onto the Bermagui road. This wound about, through country that was, in places, very scenic. It took us past another holidaying place I’d heard of, through friends – Wallaga Lake.
The highway crossed the really large Wallaga Lake, which seemed more like an inlet to me, via a strange mix of old wooden bridge and causeway. It made use of a little island conveniently located part way across.
Up the hill beyond the water crossing, a large caravan park we saw there was noted as a possible future place to visit.
Bermagui appealed immediately, as we approached on the winding road. First impressions were of a large fishing village, little impacted by development, with lots of park like land each side of the road. It was one of the nicest town approaches we had seen on this trip.
I spotted a small fishing fleet – and a fish sales co-op. Wonderful!
We went into the Zane Grey Caravan Park, for $23 a night. Why would you name a park after an American Western?
The park, although somewhat dated, was up on a hillside, had great views down over the village and the inlet and to Dromedary Mountain, which stood out in the distance.
Dromedary Mountain
We were really impressed by the picturesque place, but only intended to stay a couple of nights, so only did a basic set up.
Outlook from in front of the caravan park
After an early lunch, we drove around the streets, looking. From the top of the point where the park was located, there were outlooks right out to the Pacific Ocean – an interesting contrast to the other way, across the inlet and village.
Norfolk Island Pines featured in parts of the township
This was definitely a place I would want to come back to for a longer stay. It was also a place that merited noting as a possibility, should we ever decide to relocate to a NSW coastal place. I doubt, however, that it could ever rival the areas around Coffs Harbour, which John adores.
On Friday we went driving, right around the Narooma Lake/Inlet.
Some of the way was on the Wagonga Scenic Drive – appropriately named. The town gave way, briefly to farming land, some of the hobby farm/rural lifestyle persuasion. Some were tucked into pockets of cleared land in the forests that soon became dominant for most of the rest of the drive.
The inlet at Narooma
There were glimpses of the inlet/lake between the trees, in places.
Stopped in the forest, at a point where we could safely park, and ate our packed lunches. Had a short walk around, on the lookout for birds, but it seemed they were tucked up somewhere warm and cosy, and not out and about. So back to driving.
We eventually emerged back onto the Princes Highway, north of the town and bridge.
That was a really lovely drive and one I would want to do again, next time we visit this area.
Saturday was predictably occupied. I spent much of the day reading the weekend papers, and going for a walk on the boardwalk. After an early lunch, John went to bowls.
On Sunday, we drove to look at the southern part of the inlet entrance, where there were breakwalls that formed an entry channel for boats, from the open ocean to the lake.
The breakwall would offer possible fishing spots, I thought. The entry channel would be a challenge to boats in rough weather.
As we explored around the town, there were businesses offering boat hire – small ones suitable for the inlet – and charter ventures out for ocean fishing.
As at Batemans Bay, there were no apparent outlets for buying fresh fish, nor signs of a fishing fleet. That seemed a purely recreational activity here.
Despite the sprawled out nature of the town itself, which I felt gave it a certain lack of focus, we found this an attractive place. Certainly a holiday destination to return to at a better time of year. I was not so sure about it as a potential retirement destination for us – just did not “grab” me in that way.
Looking toward the sea from the highway bridge over the lake
After a leisurely start and pack up, we moved south again, but only as far as Narooma. This was a place I was curious about, as one heard so much about people holidaying there, so I figured it must have its attractions.
We went into Easts Van Park, for $23.40 a night, after discount.
This was a large park, spread out along the beach/bay front. There was a most attractive outlook towards the sea. There were a few shops across the road from the park, but the main shopping centre was further away, up a steep little rise.
After setting up and having lunch, we went for a walk on the boardwalk that curved around part of the bay. This involved us walking across the bridge, with its excellent views upstream to the mountains, and downstream over the inlet to the sea.
It was just sunny enough to make the inlet waters sparkle and thus the walk a really enjoyable one.
On Monday, after a very leisurely start to the day, drove across the bridge – an experience in itself – to the shopping centre. There, we walked around, getting an idea of what shops there were.
I was hoping to find somewhere good to buy fresh local seafood, but nothing like a fishermans’ co-op was evident – or a fishing fleet, for that matter.
After lunch, John went off to play bowls at the local club. I got him to drop me off by the Information Centre, so I could have a browse in there and pick up information about possible local destinations, now we had a new schedule to plan.
Then I walked through the back of the shopping area, to the main street, and then made my way back to the van, walking over the bridge. It turned out to be a very pleasant walk, despite its urban nature.
Batemans Bay was named, way back in 1770, by Captain Cook, for a member of his crew.
I extended our stay here for another two nights, and paid another $68.
John had only an average time at bowls, but at least it gave him something external to think about.
Batemans Bay outlook
Tuesday’s activity was to go driving – up the range, as far as Braidwood.
The drive was an interesting one. Our previous visit to that area, as far as Bungendore, had seen us approach from the Canberra side and return that way. This trip up – and down – the Clyde Mountain, was certainly one that I was pleased we were not doing with the van on the back!
An initially somewhat hilly section, after we turned off Highway 1, onto the Kings Highway towards Canberra, gave way to the very pretty valley of the Nelligen Creek. The road crossed the Clyde River and then followed the Nelligen Valley for some way. The little village of Nelligen looked quite lovely, and we noted that it had an attractive looking caravan park, for future reference.
Then it was up, and up, the Great Dividing Range and Clyde Mountain. The steepest section was 5kms long and I thought that vehicles would regularly overheat going up this part in summer. Whilst John’s Canberra family might love their new coastal retreat, I suspected that the regular weekend 180km each way commute there, up and down this highway, would become quite tedious. Not a road one could relax at all on, and it would be worse in the late afternoon, with wildlife like kangaroos and wombats venturing on to the road. The benefits of the weekend relaxing would be negated by the tensions of the drive home, methinks.
The Braidwood township was old and historic, the area having been first settled by Europeans in the 1820’s. A lot of old buildings still remained, giving an interesting streetscape.
I had for some time, wanted to have a browse at the rather renown quilt shop here. Quilting, or patchwork, was something on my “try one day” list, when I had more time at home, because I did not see it as being a portable hobby compatible with a small caravan. The shop was fascinating and awe inspiring. I came away not at all sure that I had the abilities to make such brilliant creations. Need to think some more about that!
We continued on to Bungendore, another historic village, visited before, from a Canberra base. John wanted to further check out the excellent wood wares gallery and shop – to see if they might be prepared to stock some of his timber creations. We wandered about in there for some time. Some of the items they had in stock were just awesome – so beautiful and creative. In the end, John was so impressed by the quality and uniqueness of the gallery contents that he decided not to ask about his products!
We also looked at the goods in the nearby leather goods shop. Again, produced by craftsmen with great love for the work they did.
Bought lunch – a pie for John and sandwiches for me.
Then we drove – carefully – back down the winding highway, to camp.
On Wednesday morning, we went back to the shopping area for a few supplies and another wander about.
Then went driving, along the road that hugged the coast, for some way. It took us through a series of strung-out housing enclaves that were like suburbs of Bateman’s Bay. After some kms of this, at Broulee, we turned around and went back the way we’d come. I did not, overall, find Batemans Bay particularly impressive, either as a holiday destination in its own right, or a potential retirement location.
The intriguingly named Tollgate Islands, just off Batemans Bay
I couldn’t think of anything else I really wanted to do at Batemans Bay, so we spent the rest of the day back at camp. It was too chilly and breezy to sit outside the van, so I read indoors, and John mucked about on his laptop.
After breakfast in the van, John spent some time mixing with the two boys – to whom he was, effectively, a stranger. They talked about fishing, of which they had not done much, and surfing, about which John knows nothing! The younger lad was still getting used to conversing totally in English – in Brussels French had been his “first” language. The five-year old was effortlessly biligual. I wondered how many languages he would end up speaking by the time he was grown up, given step-daughter’s regular overseas posts.
The resident lawnmowers at Durras
Mid morning, the family left to drive back to Canberra, because the elder boy had a birthday party to go to. We did not know about that until yesterday, and John was put out about this, though he did not say anything to them. No mention was made of any plans to return to the beach house in the next few weeks.
House at Durras
So – our visit, for which we had been waiting about for, for over two weeks, in the cold and damp, lasted less than 24 hours! Not really an experience that left us feeling like valued family……especially disappointing, even demeaning, for John. I felt so sorry for him.
We had not unhitched van and Truck, yesterday, so departing was easy. We drove back to Batemans Bay, which had looked interesting as we came though it yesterday.
Went into Easts Riverside Holiday Park – a Big 4 one. After discount, paid $68 for two nights on a powered site.
Set up, had lunch, then went for a short drive to suss out the town and its shops – most of which seemed to be shut today.
The park was quite pleasant. It had an outlook across the large Clyde River, to the town, and out towards the open ocean as well. The turn off to the park was just before the long bridge that spanned the Clyde River inlet here. The bridge looked like one produced from the old time Meccano set, and was quite pretty at night, with the various lights on it. In the bridge centre was a lifting section that allowed larger vessels to pass under because the bridge itself was quite low. I wondered how often the traffic on the highway got held up for a passing boat?
We hadn’t managed any preliminary packing up, so had it all to do this morning.
John put Truck into low range for the very steep, but short pull up the hill to the Tathra village at the top. We stopped there so I could get the Saturday papers.
Then it was a fairly slow trip north, from Bega, as the highway was hilly and winding for much of the way. We passed through south coast towns that we would, hopefully, come back to visit on the way home, or on later trips – Narooma, Moruya, Batemans Bay.
It was early afternoon when we found the Durras house. After some discussion with family, the van was backed into the neighbour’s driveway – this had been previously checked out by the family as ok, because said neighbour was not going to be there. It got us off the road, and onto a relatively flat area. We were also able to use the outdoor toilet at that place.
The location was very interesting – north of Batemans Bay, and then through National Park between the highway and the coast. The little enclave of Durras had frontage to both the ocean and Durras Lake and was surrounded on the other sides by National Park. This made it a small, tightly held area that had no room for further expansion.
Outlook at Durras Beach
However, scenic as it was, John and I thought that, at the height of summer, it would feel quite a vulnerable place, to us, with only the one narrow and winding road out, though forest.
The family’s house was on a short street that ran downhill to the ocean, and only about five houses back from the beach. Across the road was a large caravan park. The place had no front fences, but a large mob of kangaroos roamed freely and kept all the local grass mown!
Unfortunately, the kangaroos harboured plenty of ticks, and the place was infested with the ticks. John’s daughter told us that she had to closely inspect the two boys every night and regularly removed ticks from them, that they just picked up in the normal course of their play.
After the van was backed in, we got to inspect the property. It would be able to be made quite functional as a beach house, we thought, with quite a bit of work and money spent. It had just been painted, in order to stablilize the asbestos sheeting that was its main construction material.
It was really all about location, being just under three hours’ drive from home in Canberra, with the beach offering fishing, swimming and surfing for the males of the family. The surfing was especially important, apparently, as son in law used to be a surfer dude, and had plans for his sons to follow the tradition.
Durras Beach
We went for a long walk on the beach with John’s daughter and the boys, after John had given the lads the fishing gear he had bought for them, in Melbourne. There was no opportunity through the day to try out the gear with them, though. It did not seem that they had ever done any fishing, so – hopefully – having the kid-suitable rods might motivate some attempts.
Durras Lake
We ate tea with the family – spag bol.
After witnessing the nightly tick inspection, I gave step-daughter the special tweezers from my first aid kit, that had a magnifying glass attached. I thought she had a great need of these, here!
Later, back in the van, I found that I had picked up a tick that was on my hair – just from brushing against a tree near the van! Unbelievable! Luckily, I felt it moving and was able to brush it off before it had a chance to lodge properly and dig in.
I definitely would not like to live here – or even stay for any length of time.
After an early lunch, on Monday, we went to play Pairs bowls at the Tathra club.
We drew against a very elderly pair of men, who looked like they could hardly totter along the green, let alone deliver bowls that would reach the other end! I thought we were going to have an embarrassingly easy game. As we walked out to play, one of the men remarked, in a slow, laconic drawl “Pennant players, are yous?” ……..They then proceeded to comprehensively demolish us! So much for assumptions……
On Tuesday, we decided that, rather than pack up today and move south to Merimbula, for the three days of bowls, then return back this way again, we would be better served by staying here and commuting to Merimbula in the mornings for the games.
We spent a couple of hours exploring the back roads and residential areas of Tathra. We drove very slowly through the hilly section, behind the beach, admiring some of the houses that would have brilliant views. I did have to admit to John that it wouldn’t be a bad place to live – IF one was looking to relocate from Melbourne to southern NSW.
One of the steep, tight corners on the way down to sea level at Tathra (Google)
From Wednesday to Friday, we had to get up early each day, in order to be in Merimbula by the appointed time for the bowls. Each day, I packed our lunches to take with us.
The drive there was a pleasant one, and took less than half an hour. Even though we were back and forth over the same road, it did not become boring. There was an interesting mix of bushland and cleared farming land, some of which was more hobby farm style, with large modern homes on. It was always late afternoon by the time we were returning to Tathra, and thus we kept a very careful watch out for kangaroos by the road.
This annual tournament was a very large one, attracting bowlers from far and wide and offering substantial prize money. In the world of lawn bowls, that meant very strong competition – well out of our league! We knew that – John just wanted the experience of playing here.
We were playing in the fours event, teamed up with assorted strangers to make up the four, none of whom were very good. I guessed that was really why they needed to rope us in to make up the numbers.
We had a rather mixed set of results, none good enough to put us anywhere near winning anything for our bowling.
Some of the other visiting players were from our home club in Melbourne. We had a bit of a chat with them, at one stage, but they were not John’s favourite people so we did not socialize much.
On Friday – the 13th, not usually an auspicious day for me – there was the draw of a big raffle, for which tickets had been sold throughout the tournament. To my amazement, I won the second prize – a bowls bag, to be selected by me from the golf and bowls shop at Tura Beach, a resort type settlement just north of Merimbula. After the presentations to the bowls winners, and the raffle draw, we had to race off, to get to the shop before it shut, to collect my prize, as we did not plan on being back this way. Just made it, and I was very pleased with what I was able to select – about $120 worth! I had never had a new bowls bag – had been using my father’s very antiquated one. It made the whole experience worthwhile for me.
Friday fish and chips again for tea, from the local shop.
This Adventurous Age 