November | 2017 | This Adventurous Age

November 12, 2017
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2000 Travels August 7

MONDAY 7 AUGUST MITCHELL PLATEAU TO KING EDWARD RIVER 140kms

It was a very early start, as we were woken at 5.45am by a helicopter taking off. A bit early we thought. They do not seem to operate to many rules, up here.

We breakfasted, then packed up and were away at 8am.

The Mitchell Plateau track – unburned section

We drove the 15kms back to the Port Warrender track, then turned left. After another 20kms, we turned left again, onto the 6km track to the Surveyors Pool car park area. It was all quite rough. There were some minor washaways on the track in.

We passed through much burnt out country – some of the tree stumps were still smoking. It was quite hazy.

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On the track to Surveyors Pool

We set off on the 4km walk to Surveyors Pool at 10am. We had no trouble finding where the walking track started – there were arrows and the foot pad was obvious. When we’d talked with D and R about this walk, they told us how they’d walked through grass taller than themselves, and hadn’t always been sure of the way to go. That was before they’d gone on to Honeymoon to camp.

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As far as the road goes – starting point for the walk to Surveyors Pool

Since they were here, a few weeks ago, the fire had come through and made a big difference. Most of where we walked today was burnt.

It took us 80 minutes to reach Surveyors Pool.

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Surveyors Pool falls from a distance

It was much bigger than I’d expected – a very large pool on a large creek that flows into the inlet of the Mitchell River.

Surveyors Pool

There was a good waterfall coming into the Pool, which was in a low gorge cut into white sandstone, with sets of little rapids, too.

The approach from the walk track was very attractive, with the creek rapids first, then the view of the falls and the big pool, which was quite a long way down from the ledge where the track finished up.

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It was certainly worth the effort of walking, in the heat, to get there.

We explored around the pool area for a while, then sat enjoying the wilderness and watching the falls. Not knowing what barriers the terrain offered between the pool and the sea inlet not too far away, we were not prepared to risk swimming in the pool.

At midday, we left to walk out again. John tried to use the GPS to locate the start of the track out but couldn’t find it. We argued over which was the right way to strike out to intersect with it. I think I’d gotten disoriented, following the creek around on the way in – if we’d gone out the way I thought we should go, we would probably still be walking!

John decided that we would not keep looking for the track at its start, but would go cross country to a further waypoint on his GPS. We did find the track there, but it was not pleasant walking through the burnt stuff, in the heat.

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Burnt country by the track to Surveyors Pool

The final part of the track was quite steeply uphill, for a distance – very hard work in the heat.

I eventually dragged myself to Truck, parked in its clearing, feeling ill and giddy. John had been a way ahead and had the air con going for me by the time I got there. I soon cooled off and felt better.

It had taken us nearly two hours to walk the 4kms back!

It had been very enjoyable, being the only people on the walk and at the pool.

We retraced our route to the Port Warrender track, and thence back to the King Edward River. We stopped briefly for a late lunch where the track skirted close to the edge of the plateau, and gave us an outlook whilst eating.

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Back on the Mitchell Plateau track. Most traffic does not go beyond the turn off to Mitchell Falls.

A boggy section of the road at Camp Creek

We reached the camp area at 5pm.

D and R were still there, so we set up camp at a little distance from them. It was a very quick and efficient set up of the small tent.

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Camp at the King Edward River

This was such a pretty place, though shade was a bit scarce.

For tea, John had bacon, eggs and baked beans. I had a quick packet pasta meal. We followed with tinned fruit.

We talked with D and R for a while, but were both tired, so went off early to do the nightly battle with trying to sleep on the deflating lilo.

After dark, there was a very obvious red glow from a burning fire, somewhere over the river, not too far away.

I was pleased we’d made the effort to come on here. It might have been easier to leave the camp set up at the Mitchell Plateau and do Surveyors Pool as a day trip from there, but this is just such a nicer place to be. And there will be no early morning helicopters!

November 10, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels August 6

SUNDAY 6 AUGUST MITCHELL PLATEAU

For some time now, our lilo has been steadily going down through the night. John has to pump it up again in the middle of the night – he gets that job – and then it is down again by morning. Does not make for a really great night’s sleep.

We were up about 6.30am, to a hot, sunny day.

We began our walk to the Falls at about 8am, before it got too hot. John was in a hurry to leave, and worried that we seemed to be the last walkers to leave. He’d gone to the pilots’ base about 7am to book our flight.

It all became a great rush to get lunch ready and get going, and in the flurry I could not find my bathers – knew they were in the bottom of my clothes bag, somewhere.

The track was pleasant walking – single file for the most part, and needing care because of rocks and tree roots. In a few places we needed to scramble over rocks.

Walking track to the Mitchell Falls

It did not take us long on the track to reach the Little Mertens Falls, where there were very attractive rapids, and small falls, upstream, and a long fall downstream of a plunge pool.

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Rapids on Mertens Creek

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Plunge pool at Little Mertens Falls

We admired the pool and falls for a little while, and then John found the way down the side of the small falls to their base. There was some aboriginal art work on the overhanging ledge beside and under the falls. It was interesting – using mostly colours of brown and black, like we’d seen at Kalumburu. There must be so many art sites throughout the Kimberley. I ondered to what extent they had been documented and analysed by white scholars?

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Rock art in cave behind the Little Mertens Falls

It was very cool and pretty behind the falls, with ferns growing in the moisture.

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A fernery in the micro climate behind the Falls

We continued on the walking track, past some more art work beside Mertens Creek, to the Big Mertens Falls. These were a huge, single drop down into a narrow, very deep gorge. The sides of this were vertical and there was a long view down the ravine.

Big Mertens Falls

Looking down the gorge of the Big Mertens Falls

We explored around the top of the falls area for a short time, then had to cross the top of the falls to continue on the walking track. The way across felt uncomfortably close to the edge of the ravine.

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The track crossed the top of the Big Mertens Falls

From there we skirted round a low hill, then it was a bit of a scramble over a slabbed rocky area and down to the Mitchell River, above the Falls.

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The Mitchell River, seen from the approach track to the Falls area

It was all absolutely spectacular.

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Looking down the Mitchell River Gorge

We had a look around the top of the falls, before taking off our boots to cross over, through some small rapids.

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Crossing above the Mitchell Falls

We had a swim in the pool back a little from the top of the falls. John had his bathers; I swum in my clothes – it was too tempting to pass up. It was beautiful and cool and it was lovely to feel clean again. It took me a while to drip dry though!

We ate lunch sitting on the rocks by the pool.

A guide brought two women near us, and we talked. He had tentatively arranged for them to go back on the same helicopter flight as us, but they now said they’d walk back. Him doing that meant that there was no other chance for the remaining two seats on our flight to be sold, so we ended up having to pay the full $100 each. I felt this was a bit unfair to us.

After lunch we went walking and scrambling around the top of the falls and downstream a little, to see what perspective of the falls we could get from there. Did some rock hopping. Managed to get down a little gully that gave us good falls views.

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Mitchell Falls – the top three tiers seen from the side of the gorge

We got some excellent views back upstream, of three, then four, drops of the five drop falls.

These have to be the BEST falls we have seen in Australia.

There was a lot of water coming over, too – they would be immense in a big wet season. Of course, the only way to see them then would be from the air.

We filled in time around there, taking photos and just admiring the whole place, until it was time to make our way back to the little plateau by the top of the falls, that the helicopters used, for our 2pm flight.

The pilot actually came about 2.20pm. He was a very taciturn young man, with an attitude that we were just a chore to be managed, rather than welcome customers. John went into the back seat behind the pilot, and I was put in the front seat. There was no front door on the helicopter – to enable a better view.

The pilot did not give any assistance with getting set up for the flight. I was left to work out how to do up my harness myself. He did not help, or check it, just shoved some headphones across at me. He was focussed on some girls who were sunbaking topless further across on the rocks. Because I was trying to put those on, and do up the harness, I finished up with the mouthpiece digging uncomfortably into my neck. I still was not sure about the harness when we suddenly took off and dropped straight out into space above the falls. I was petrified that I’d fall out, so hung onto the door frame – very tightly!

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The valley of the Mitchell River

I did not feel secure or at ease during the entire flight, much of which was on a sideways slant, to give us views, but which put me on the “downhill” side.

I managed a few – one-handed – photos – but it was a pity I could not do it properly.

We flew over the falls for a bit, then went up high enough to get a good perspective right back over the river, the falls, the plateau, and where the gorge of Big Mertens Creek meets the Mitchell River, downstream from the falls.

Mitchell Falls seen from the helicopter

Then we flew downstream, over the lowest falls, to where the tidal influence meets the fresh water.

The plateau nature of the area was more evident from the air, as was mile after mile of dissected sandstone block country. It looked so vast, with just the slash of the river course through it.

Mitchell Falls, Plateau and River. A helicopter is on flat area in photo centre

There would be so many scenic places that we do not get to see, because they are only accessible from the air, if at all.

A vast area of wilderness

The pilot gave almost no commentary. He did much fiddling with his radio and there was a lot of static noise from that. He talked at length on the radio with someone about bring back a forgotten towel. So we did not feel that we got any value in the way of informed commentary. We had been expecting something like a mini aerial tour, but what we got was just an aerial taxi service!

Coming in over the campground to land was interesting. The camp area was much larger than was evident on the ground. We could see Truck and our tent.

The campground at the Mitchell Plateau. Our red and green tent is in photo centre

Even though we had to pay the full amount, seeing the area from the air was worth it. That was a great anniversary present.

I felt quite exhilarated after the flight. Maybe it was just relief at surviving! My first helicopter flight. Pity about the attitude of the pilot, though.

We relaxed at camp for the remainder of the afternoon, reliving the experiences of the day.

Tea was potato rosti, egg and bacon.

The moon was beginning to be evident again at night, after some dark ones.

November 10, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels August 5

SATURDAY 5 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH TO MITCHELL PLATEAU 229kms

We were woken early by campground noises and so were up at 6.15am.

There was water, so I was able to have a shower and wash my hair, which made me feel much better.

We worked steadily on the pack up and left about 8.40, after stopping off at the shed/office to say goodbye. Les and R had already gone out on the boat with a fishing party, so we only saw his wife and daughter.

Today’s was another mass exodus. By the time we left, there was only one remaining group.

After yesterday, it felt good to be going. Apparently, there was to be a corroboree and a celebration for the Sisters – some sort of anniversary – in town tonight, and we could have gone to that. It might have been interesting. But we hadn’t found out about it until we were packed up, and by then we were very focussed on going.

The driving was alright – it seemed ages since we had done that!

Not far from town, drove past burning bush, not far from the road. We assumed it was the normal dry season burning, done by the locals, to deter fierce fires later in the season, by reducing fuel availability, in an ad hoc sort of pattern.

The road condition was rather varied. THE problem creek crossing had been worked on and partly filled in. A pile of earth covered where the rock had been, and a big stick marked the way. Road repairs Kalumburu style!

Road repairs! The problem rock dealt with, and much less water.

We called in at Theda Station, briefly. I bought grapefruit, some used books that were for sale, and a postcard.

Next stop was at the King Edward River, for lunch. We had to ford the river to reach the camp ground and stopping place beside the river. The ford was 40-50cms deep and quite rough, though not all that wide.

The area was most picturesque and we would both really like to spend some time camped there, so we decided to do that after we’d been to the Mitchell Plateau.

King Edward River near the camping area

After lunch, found where D and R were camped, and exchanged home addresses, which we’d forgotten to do at Honeymoon.

It took us two hours to drive from the King Edward River to the Mitchell Falls camp area – 85kms. The track was corrugated, stony, rough, winding, and needed much concentration. Hazards such as sharp corners were not signposted. The road camber was wrong in parts too.

For some of the way, the track followed a ridge line, and there were some distant views out across the scrubland. After some 60kms, we came to the small, but boggy crossing of Camp Creek. On our ’93 trip, we’d camped a little distance from the Mitchell Plateau track, beside Camp Creek. The area looked different from what we remembered, and I thought the track route may have slightly changed. Back then ,there was a rather confusing maze of tracks around here. From there, we’d gone to Crystal Creek, the most northerly spot on the Plateau able to be reached by vehicle. We had not turned off the Port Warrender track to go to Mitchell Falls, which were hardly flowing that year. This time, only a couple of kms beyond Camp Creek, we turned left for the Falls. So, the 15kms of the track to the Falls camp are was new for us.

There had recently been a big fire through some of that country – it was quite desolate in parts.

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Burnt Livistona Palms by the track to the Mitchell Plateau

It was just after 3pm when we reached the campground. It was a hot day, but the travel had created a bit of a breeze through the windows.

The camp area was bigger than I expected and not as crowded as I’d feared. However, it was rather barren, rocky and hot, but would do for our purpose of a place to camp whilst visiting the Falls. There were a few composting toilets. At least, it was free to stay here.

We had passed a number of vehicles going out as we were coming in – obviously some people do it as a day trip from King Edward River. It would be a hard day, driving that road twice, not to mention the walk to the Falls – 3kms each way.

We set up the small tent, easily enough.

Camp at the Mitchell Falls campground

After setting up, we walked to the creek to get water and then up to the pilots’ base to enquire about helicopter flight options and costs. Found out that there are currently three helicopters based here. We decided to buy a 12 minute flight from the Falls back to camp, as an anniversary present to ourselves. It would cost $100 each, or $60 if they get another two passengers.

Three years ago, to this day, John went into hospital for his hip operation. That was one anniversary. The other is our wedding one, coming up in five days.

Tea was tinned ham, potato, some salad.

At night, there was a feeling of some coolness in the air.

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November 10, 2017
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2000 Travels August 4

FRIDAY 4 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

There was quite an exodus this morning, especially of what had become our little group – D and R and the three Argyle Mine workers.

It was hot again, and too windy in the morning for fishing trips.

Les went to town, leaving John and aboriginal R to mind the place!

The combined house, office and workshop

John had wanted to have a quiet day, pottering about and doing some packing up, because we had decided last night, that it was time for us to leave also. Seductive though some aspects of the lifestyle here are, we do have other places to see.

I washed some clothes.

John went to make some more signs that he’d promised Les. He was not really in the mood for doing them, so it was an effort.

Some of the camp area, looking towards the Bay

At midday, R came to find John – there was no water! They went off to the bore, checked the pipes – couldn’t find a leak. They tried to keep the system pumping, but probably should have turned the water off to camp and let the tank build up a bit. There was a trickle of water some of the time, but not enough for showers.

I made roti bread for lunch, with enough over for another day or two. Did some preliminary packing up.

After lunch, we went for a drive out along the bore track, to try to tape record the noises of the red tailed black cockatoos. We’d already taped the raucous calls of the blue winged kookaburras, which had been particularly active for the past few days.

Late in the afternoon, we went for a farewell walk along the beach. R had earlier said that a person out fishing had reported a very large crocodile cruising around the point and into the bay.

The beach at Honeymoon Beach

This evening, there were only four other lots in here camping, so the place felt pretty quiet.

Les got back after dark and turned all the water off. He’d apparently found a leak, back up towards the tank, then got up during the night to pump water. He had told us, at some stage earlier in our stay, that frogs get into the works up at the bore and prevent the solar panel tracking the sun, which then means that there is no power for pumping. Hence his need for a large genset.

So, it was a mixed last day here for us.

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Dusk light over Napier Broome Bay

Tea was pasta and bottled tomato sauce.

John radphoned his sister H – it was coming up towards her birthday.

It was not good to go to bed feeling grotty, with no shower. I’d wanted to wash my hair too.

I was definitely feeling this night, that it was time to leave here. I’d had enough of aboriginal ad-hoc-ery, and red neck white men.

Les had previously, quite seriously, said that “teacher John” as he calls him, should stay and work here. Presumably just for the pleasure of being here! It would be alright if I went off travelling, but John should stay! I think part of John was flattered, but he has had enough, too. It has been a real insight into some of the issues in such places. We really admired Les, for trying to get this enterprise going, and for his hard work. It was sad that so few of his family, apart from his wife, helped at all. We could only hope – as Les does – that some in the coming generations will show more interest, and willingness to put in consistent effort.

November 8, 2017
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2000 Travels August 3

THURSDAY 3 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

It was a hot day that was windy in the morning, but by night there was a bit of a breeze.

Les came down and told us he would take us to see art. We were to meet him in Kalumburu, as he had some phoning to do – to try to get the phone put on to Honeymoon, for starters.

We drove in, and went to the Mission to get our gas bottles filled. That took half an hour. The young Irish guy that looks after the fuel centre was so slow, and rather strange. Gas for our two bottles cost $31.50.

Sports court at Kalumburu, with the Mission behind

I bought some oddments at the store, and then we sat in Truck for an hour, waiting for Les. It was interesting, watching the passing parade of people, here. Eventually, John went in to ask Les how much longer he’d be, and he appeared.

Then we drove around the settlement, looking for R.

In Kalumburu

Our first stop was out at Marra Garra – the barge landing. We were surprised to see a great deal of mining equipment here – a company called Striker is setting up to explore for diamonds. A track has been pushed through Carson River Station to the back of Ellenbrae Station, to get the gear up there. There was one white man relaxing and fishing there – it was his job to mind the equipment.

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Mining equipment at Marra Garra barge landing

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The coast at Marra Garra, looking across to the King Edward River mouth

We then followed Les up a defined track, but he stopped at a creek and decided we were going the wrong way. Further back along the Marra Garra road, he took to the bush and blazed his own track with the Nissan, for over a km. We followed, through the high, dry grass, hoping we wouldn’t rearrange something vital on a hidden rock or ant hill. It was rough.

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Going bush!

Rock outcrops where art work found

We came into sandstone pillar type/Lost City formations and then walked a few hundred metres. Under a couple of overhangs in cave-like formations in the sandstone, there was much art work. It seemed to my very inexpert eye to have elements of both Bradshaw and Wandjina styles.

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Les was uncertain of the origins of it, and asked if we could figure out the meanings of it all! It is sad that loss of culture resulted from the Mission years – they did much that was beneficial, and much that is now seen as regrettable.

Rock shelter and more art

We had to scramble up into the rocks to get to a second lot of art.

Les said it was alright to take photos.

Then we backtracked through the bush to the road. Les went off to town to make some more phone calls, and we went back to camp.

We’d gotten some bites from green ants, out in the bush, and they were stinging a bit.

Les said that he was going to take us out to the King George Falls, to the east of here, some 75kms away. He said there were tracks through their lands to the river. It was a really tempting offer – Europeans can usually only see the Falls from the sea, as part of a Kimberley cruise, or by private boat. But we were certain that the going would be slow and rough, and thus more than a day trip – and Les does really have a business to run! Even if he is rather casual about it, at times. We told him that we were grateful, but we did not think it was good to take him away from the campground for too long.

After lunch, we went for a walk out to the bore, for exercise.

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The bore and genset

We had a final drink with D and R, who leave tomorrow to go camp at the King Edward River.

Young M, the crane driver from the Argyle Mine, brought John back some oysters, so John had those as an entree to tea, which was fries and bluebone, followed by tinned apricots. M said he was coming back here for his next three week off spell. That would be great for Les, because M would do quite a bit of helping about the place.

Les confirmed that the big snake, last night, would have been a king brown. He said they are attracted to music! The shed inhabitants certainly play that loudly!

November 8, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels August 2

WEDNESDAY 2 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

The day was hot and very windy for most of it. However, the wind had died down by late afternoon and it became rather humid.

The water pipe to the lower hut broke again in the night. The slobs down there had made such a fuss that Les left the pipe joined up. Luckily, Les got up at 1am, found the tank empty, found the leak, turned off the water to down there, and pumped water. So, there was water for the rest of us in the morning.

John, the two R’s, Les and a couple of others worked on it all morning. There were the usual difficulties – no spares, different diameter pipes.

The slobs from the shed were, of course, off in their boat, fishing. I was pleased to hear that they did not catch anything, despite going way out, and they got wet and got sore backs from bouncing around on the choppy seas.

I did some washing, which I’d soaked last night, and eventually got it rinsed, in between water turn offs, and hung out. There was no campers’ laundry facilities of any sort, so all clothes washing was done by hand, in my own plastic wash bowl.

The Europeans who had been here for two nights left this morning. They only paid Les $20 for the fishing trip, because they only caught sharks! What ratbags. R had gathered – and opened – so many oysters for them, last night. And they’d drunk all the Jim Beam that the Argyle boys had. D was really furious at their attitude. I just decided that karma would catch up with them!

After lunch, we drove to Pago, in tandem with a couple who were camping, who were also members of the VKS radio network.

There was a private OKA at the Pago ruins – looked like they’d set up to camp there, which I did not think was permitted.

It was a very pretty drive out there, with a couple of shallow water crossings.

A ford on the track to the old Pago Mission site

We looked around the ruins of the original Mission, at Pago, for a while.

The old well at the Pago ruins

Remains of oven at Pago

John showed me a bore pipe that had been dug and put in for the current native title owner. Apparently, he has a nice new house, provided by the government, just down the track, but prefers to spend most of his time in Kalumburu, so the house is empty. Les had told John all that.

Near Pago

08-02-2000 pago creek

We went onto the Mission Beach, and John showed the other man how to get oysters. John ate some off the rocks. I did not want any – think I am all oystered out!

Mission Beach and mangroves

Root system of mangroves exposed at the low tide

On the way back from Pago, we saw some feral donkeys, mixed with some horses. These animals are remnants from the cattle rearing days of the Mission. Whilst, obviously the cattle are killed for meat, as Les did, they basically run wild and we did not see any evidence of attempts to manage them as a resource.

R worked on Les’ Nissan all afternoon, and fixed all sorts of oddments, including the tailgate fastener, the passenger door, and made a dipstick to measure the fuel.

Les, his wife and aboriginal R went off town for the evening, so we hoped that nothing broke down any further.

Tea was shark, cooked to a recipe I had for doing crocodile, Asian style. I had to improvise a bit, using chilli sauce instead of oyster sauce, and red onions instead of shallots. But it was very nice.

Just after dark, the campers next to us were startled when a big snake sashayed through their camp, right close past the chair one man was sitting in. They thought it was a king brown snake. They are nasty ones.

The lower hut slobs were being drunken and extremely raucous. I willed the snake to go down their way!

November 8, 2017
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2000 Travels August 1

TUESDAY 1 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

I was woken at 5.30am by noise from the slobs in the lower shed.

After breakfast, we drove into Kalumburu to get “stores” for ourselves. I especially needed potatoes, SR flour and dried milk.

On the way back, we put up the billboard sign and two of John’s Honeymoon painted tyre signs. It was hard work in the heat, but a good thing to do for the place.

Why some signs are needed!

There is real rivalry between Honeymoon and McGowans Island people, with the latter apparently telling travellers that Honeymoon is hard to find, the water supply issues, and so on. There are elements of truth to such statements – but we have now made the place a bit easier to find! Certainly, when we first drove this way, we were very unsure if we were going the right way.

McGowans may attract campers just because it is closer to Kalumburu and the way is obvious, so we put a Honeymoon sign at the McGowans turnoff!

Putting up a new sign

Of course, every Wet season is likely to cause a change in the location of the tracks, as well as their condition.

There was a bit of traffic on the track today. The Argyle men had landed the task of driving to town to fetch Les’ fuel, today! D went with them for something to do, because the two R’s had taken the boat out with fishing trip customers.

Les’ wife went into town and back and several of the family came out from town.

Les spent much of the day trying to fix tyres! And, I suspect, keeping an eye on the men in the lower hut.

On our way back from town and putting up signs, we met the town garbage truck, stuck in the sandy track, not far from the Pago turn off. The driver said he’d taken a friend out to Honeymoon. The travel mates of the Greek men were stopped there – they were leaving today. They were cross at the delay, but pulled the truck out of the sand.

Now the track was even harder to negotiate.

The track to Honeymoon Beach

Back at camp. Les was not happy. He said the lad who came out on the garbage truck should not be there. Apparently, he was after booze and drugs from the slobs in the shed. They were remembered for same, from two years ago! Obviously, word had gotten to town about them.

D said they offered her ganja yesterday!

Les was trying to find a way to get the lad back to town, as he did not want him hanging about out here, indulging.

Ironically, there was to be a big meeting in town, tomorrow morning, to discuss the drink and drugs problems.

We had a late lunch, then lazed about for the rest of the afternoon.

Tea was “flake” in curry sauce – very nice.

November 7, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels July 31

MONDAY 31 JULY HONEYMOON BEACH

Hot and sunny.

There were some campers wanting to do a fishing trip. Les got the two R’s to take them out. Les then summonsed John and told him to hurry up because he and his wife were taking him out fishing! John got ready in a real rush.

The paying fishing party

07-28-2000 richard tempting wildlife.jpg

R casting net for bait

I wrote and sewed, watched from above by my reptilian companion. Talked some with D.

The young Greek guys who had borrowed all the tools the other day, left in the late morning, when there was no one at the office to settle up with. They left some money, but it was not enough to cover their camp fees – was $20 short. They didn’t pay at all for the tool use. They were not nice people.

I was getting more and more annoyed by campers who seemed to think they could swan in here and get away with such things – just because the family is aboriginal.

The respective fishing parties both got back about 3pm. White R had a big red emperor. John had hooked one, but it broke the gear and got away. They also had some smaller fish and a small shark that John had kept for us. The others had a couple of big cod. It had been a good day out for most. John seemed to have enjoyed himself. This trip was Les’ reward for all the work the men had been putting in around the place.

John with cod caught by someone else

Then there was the usual fish cleaning flurry. We had three or four more fish meals from the day’s catch.

In the afternoon, a party of obnoxious men came in and camped in the lower shed. Some of the party had been here two years ago. They were loud and foul mouthed. They insisted on joining the water pipe to the shed back up, despite being told not to do so. Les turned the water off altogether, at that point. There were people in the shower at the time, who were not happy!

We had fries and golden trevally for tea.

D and R BBQ’d the red emperor on the fire of the three men from the Argyle mine. It took ages. They had asked Les and wife, R and Les’ girls to tea, but wife and the girls got sick of waiting and went back to their shed.

There had been no mention of D’s hide today – I thought it may have been consigned to a deep hole, somewhere!

November 7, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels July 30

SUNDAY 30 JULY HONEYMOON BEACH

A hot and sunny day – no surprise there.

I radio-phoned K and left message about where we were. Phoned my brother and talked to him and nephew. They clearly found it impossible to visualize this place!

The men worked about the place. This had almost become the norm. I guess they liked being useful, but we were still paying to be here!

I wrote, and lazed, got scared a few times by the evil lizard, then went for a walk on the beach later in the day. It was such a beautiful area, with the turquoise sea. We were getting used to having the blue sea in the background, down the hill from camp, and tended to take it for granted, somewhat.

Napier Broome Bay, from the campground

John made some more signs – pretty good looking ones too. He took a considerable liberty, putting five stars on the tyre signs! He then had to explain the concept of star ratings to Les.

More signs…

D was cross because the two R’s were working and fishing, and she was wanting Aboriginal R to help her with the hide and peg it out for her.

Tea was fries and golden trevally – very nice.

November 7, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels July 29

SATURDAY 29 JULY HONEYMOON BEACH

Hot again, but not as windy.

The men spent much of today working. There were problems with the bore this morning, and hence no water for the campground. As campers still use the toilets, this can become quite unpleasant!

Apparently, the water table has dropped since the bore was put in, and it is silting up. With the help of a welder from the Argyle Mines, who is camping here, they put another 3 metres onto the bore pipe.

So, there was no water all day, because the work took that long.

Then, after it was all on again, they discovered that the pipe to the lower fishing hut had broken again – so that was where all the water that should have been in the overhead tank, had gone. That pipe was shut off and all was well again.

I am finding the recurrent water issues rather tedious. It must be incredibly frustrating for Les.

Aboriginal R took the hung meat to town, to freeze. He left in the morning and had two flat tyres on the Nissan, on the way. What was it that Les said about never having flat tyres?

Some fishing people in camp gave me the back half of a golden trevally. There would be two meals there, at least.

I cooked roti bread for lunch – very good.

D spent all day cutting bits of meat off her cow hide. She sustained several cuts to her fingers and became quite cross. The flies didn’t help!

I sat round camp and sewed, and read.

There was a critter – a lizard of some sort, almost a metre long – that lives in the dead part of a tree right near the tent. It had a habit of dropping into the long grass and making loud rustling noises. Scared the bejesus out of me, every time. I swore it grinned, too!

Reptile watching me from on high

Reptile climbing back up its tree for another go at scaring me!

Tonight John wanted bacon and eggs for tea. He was sick of fish! We had chicken noodle soup first.

This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

Monthly Archives: November 2017

2000 Travels August 7

MONDAY 7 AUGUST MITCHELL PLATEAU TO KING EDWARD RIVER 140kms

2000 Travels August 6

SUNDAY 6 AUGUST MITCHELL PLATEAU

2000 Travels August 5

SATURDAY 5 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH TO MITCHELL PLATEAU 229kms

2000 Travels August 4

FRIDAY 4 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

2000 Travels August 3

THURSDAY 3 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

2000 Travels August 2

WEDNESDAY 2 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

2000 Travels August 1

TUESDAY 1 AUGUST HONEYMOON BEACH

2000 Travels July 31

MONDAY 31 JULY HONEYMOON BEACH

2000 Travels July 30

SUNDAY 30 JULY HONEYMOON BEACH

2000 Travels July 29

SATURDAY 29 JULY HONEYMOON BEACH