This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels January 10

MONDAY 10 JANUARY     HOBART

This morning, we wondered if it is worth going to all the hassle of packing up and moving out, for just six days. John is interested in watching the cricket, and there is no guarantee we would have power – or a TV signal – out at Mt Field. We could maybe stay here and do some more day trips on non-cricket days?

We went shopping, after breakfast, for food and wine for tonight.

About 11am, M phoned, from the top of Mt Wellington, to confirm tonight’s arrangements. But, I think, mainly because he was up there and wanted to tell someone!

We drove into the city. Went to BBQ’s Galore, looking for some camp chairs like the ones we have, which would be handy to have for visitors. No luck.

Met M and H at the Hobart Tower Motel, at 1.30, where they are staying with their sports car group.

I returned to the van with M in his Austin Healey – rather more quickly than I was comfortable with! H travelled more sedately with John.

M took John for a spin around the local area.

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We all sat and talked for the rest of the afternoon. It was a lovely, warm afternoon, so was great to sit outside.

We had an early tea, as M does not have great lights on the sports car, so we wanted to make sure he could leave in daylight, if he wished.

The car occasioned much interest at the caravan park!

Our meal was gazpacho and rolls, salmon cutlets, potato and salad, followed by strawberries, raspberries and Tasmanian ice cream. All very good and I am sure they enjoyed it, as some of the meals they have had on the trip have been rather indifferent, they said.

They are leaving home in late February for a trip up the Centre, having to be in Darwin by late April, before travelling through WA. So we may meet up somewhere in those parts.


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2000 Travels January 9

SUNDAY 9 JANUARY     HOBART

We left Hobart at 10.15am to drive to Oatlands to meet John’s nephew I and wife and daughter. We only had about 75kms to drive.

It was a warm day, and a pleasant drive up there, although the Midlands country is quite dry.

Reached Oatlands at 11.30. We parked outside our meeting point at the Post Office, then walked to the Information Centre, then on to a cafe to see what it was like.

Oatlands has lots of lovely old buildings, most of them built from stone. The settlement dates from the early 1800’s. The town would be a great resource for anyone interested in the colonial architecture of those times. Some of the buildings have been looked after/ restored, others not.

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Oatlands street scene

One of the old features is the Callington Mill, a flour mill that dates from the 1830’s. It is unusual in being driven by a windmill apparatus – there was no river here to make a mill race. I guess that, on calm days, no flour was ground here!

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Callington Mill & associated buildings. The main wind sails were removed when the mill closed, about 1900

Oatlands is clearly not the tourist attraction that Ross or Richmond are – there seemed to be very few tourists or visitors around at all. Oatlands does not have a river or an old bridge – maybe that explains it? But it does have a good sized lake – Lake Dulverton – that they are battling to keep filled, via a bore. And associated ducks! We can’t get away from ducks!

There was only the one cafe open – and it was not too good either.

Apparently there are moves underway to restore the Callington Mill to working order. If this eventuates, then Oatlands would have a significant tourist attraction and more associated businesses might be viable.

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The main sails were mounted on the bracing at the right

I and family arrived a bit after 12. We wandered about, explored the Mill, ate our packed lunch, wandered some more. It was all pleasant enough – I hadn’t met these members of John’s family before.

We departed mid-afternoon. It was hot enough to have Truck’s air-con on for a while on the way back. We bought some fruits and vegies at a stall on the way home.

Back at camp, the latest mother duck was down to seven babies.

I made gazpacho for tomorrow’s dinner. It involved much hand chopping of ingredients into little pieces and was quite tedious. John watched cricket on TV.

Tea was soup, salads, stewed apricots.

We discussed going to Mt Field, next week, for six days, before having to come back here for the next round of visitors.


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2000 Travels January 8

SATURDAY 8 JANUARY     HOBART

John’s nephew M phoned early: they get into Hobart, from Queenstown,  on Sunday and will come here for a meal on Monday.

We did the shopping after breakfast; it did not take long. Refuelled at Claremont – 76cpl.

We had a morning visit from another mother duck, with ten really young ducklings. I fed them bread in a dish of water, which they really hoed into. We should not really “assist” in this way, but I feel so sorry for them. I wonder how long this lot will last? She sat under our van with them, for a while.

After lunch, we drove through the city and down to Kingston. Pleasant drive, via Sandy Bay Road, and the Channel Highway, following the coast.

At Kingston, we did the Alum Cliffs Walk, which took us two hours and was a good hit-out.

Drove back via the same way we’d come – the view is different going the other way!

Back at the van, I made vegie and barley soup, and stewed some of the apricots that were going very soft.

Tea was soup, lamb chops, potato slices, salad.


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2000 Travels January 7

FRIDAY 7 JANUARY     HOBART

As soon as he got up, John phoned his nephew and arranged to meet them at Oatlands, on Sunday.

We should have been leaving here on Sunday, so I booked us in for another two nights – was charged $14 a night.

The tourism man came at about 10.30 and stayed nearly three hours. It was an interesting visit. He seemed to find our views and experiences of use, but was already aware of some of the issues, such as poor quality caravan parks and the cost of bringing caravans on the ferry. He said they find the TT Line difficult to deal with. I don’t know that much will change, but at least we have tried to do our bit to represent our growing segment of the travelling public.

After a late lunch, we drove into the city, to the Service Tasmania Centre, to pick up the sticker for our annual National Park Pass. As always, the place was interesting, and tempting. While John had an internet session there, I browsed and bought maps and bushwalk books – spent $65.

We got back to Glenorchy at 4.45pm, to pick up the mail, and I was able to collect my photos too. John mailed off some tourist information to daughter R.

Back at the van, read the mail. There was a good batch of Xmas cards in it. Was a card from my Darwin friend, A, saying he and wife V will shortly be in Tasmania for ten days. Bit of a contrast for them! I phoned him and we arranged to meet in Hobart on the 18th. It is proving very hard to get away from here!

When I mentioned to John about going out to buy chips, we had a lengthy “discussion”, with John insisting that it was only Thursday and I was ahead of myself! He eventually ceded the point, and then was cross because he had missed out on the pre-dinner beer that he allows himself on Fridays.

While he went to get the chips, I cooked the pike that I’d caught at Nubeena, for him. He said it was very nice. I had a very good Scotch fillet steak.

There are many ducks that hang around the caravan park, and beg food as they can. Between the rough demands of the drakes, and mothering duties, the female ducks have a tough life. One had been bringing around a brood of twelve young. Today, it was distressing to see them being attacked by seagulls. They were about a week old. She could not defend so many, and seemed a pretty dumb duck, to boot. By late in the day, she only had six left. I now hate seagulls.


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2000 Travels January 6

THURSDAY 6 JANUARY     HOBART

John said he was feeling better and that we could tackle something a little more ambitious today. So I packed a picnic lunch and we headed off driving up the Derwent Valley, on the highway, through New Norfolk.

The first stop was at Plenty, at the Salmon Ponds. Despite the name, this is principally a trout hatchery. Dating from the 1860’s, it is the oldest trout hatchery in the southern hemisphere, having its origins in the nostalgia of settlers for the familiar flora and fauna of Britain. There, salmon fishing was a popular pastime, so there was a wish to stock the colonial streams.

In the 1860’s some live salmon and a few trout eggs were successfully transported and the Plenty Salmon Ponds date from then. It was expected that the salmon hatched here would migrate as usual, to sea, then return to the place of their hatching, as is normal. But they had other ideas, so that experiment did not work. However, the few trout eggs hatched and the offspring established themselves very successfully in Tasmanian waterways, so the place became a trout hatchery, eventually supplying trout for stocking of streams over much of Australia and New Zealand.

Grand gardens were established, in the English style, around the trout ponds.

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Old World gardens and one of the trout ponds

It cost us $5 and $3.75 for entry. John got an “older person’s” discount! Since he was not yet 60, he wasn’t sure whether to be pleased or insulted!

The visit here was absolutely fascinating and worth every cent. We each bought a 20cent container of fish food, from a dispensing machine. This provided us with great entertainment for over an hour!

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Buying a container of pellets to feed the trout

We were able to walk the paths alongside the ponds and feed huge trout, both rainbow and brown, albino trout – easy to see – and salmon. They do hatch some of the latter now too. These really jumped ferociously out of the water to take the food.

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Albino trout

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Spent some time browsing in the excellent trout fishing museum, housed in what was the house of the first superintendent of the Ponds, built in 1865.

We drove on further west, to Mt Field National Park. On the way, John had an empty log truck sit right behind us, partially pulled out and just about touching our back corner, trying to push John over so he could pass. It was a two lane road, but the lanes were not all that wide. It was not a pleasant experience – our first encounter with the notorious Tasmanian timber jinker drivers!

There is quite a little settlement at what is called National Park, at the base of the range, where the National Parks headquarters are. It is a popular place, being the start point for the fairly short walk to the iconic Russell Falls.

We ate lunch in the car park there, then set out for a walk. Our first goal was Russell Falls, then we went on to Horseshoe Falls. This first part of the track was quite busy with other day trippers. We are not really used to sharing our walks with numbers of other people!

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Russell Falls

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Horseshoe Falls

We continued on the medium grade, two hour circuit track to Lady Barron Falls and then back around to the car park. This section really sorted out the walkers and was much quieter! It was very pleasant walking through the forest, with lots of man ferns beside the track, which followed a creek for much of the way.

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By the Lady Barron Falls circuit track

All three sets of falls were beautiful, with a reasonable amount of water flowing.

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Lady Barron Falls

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Massive swamp gum by the track

On the way back to the car park where we’d left Truck, we took a detour through the campground. It looked a very pleasant area. It was very busy, but should be less crowded by the time we can come here, so hope we will be able to find a site then.

Drove back to Hobart, the way we’d come. Drove 149kms today.

We got back just too late to catch the Post Office before closing.

We had a phone message from a man from Tourism Tasmania – a researcher – and phoned him back. He wanted to come and see John tomorrow, because he was interested in talking to experienced caravanners! Us? This is in response to the letter John sent about our reactions to Tasmanian facilities for nomads like us. Or rather, lack thereof.

There was also a message from John’s nephew I – he and family are on a trip over here.

Tea was an omelette and potato slices.

Phoned K who assured John the mail had been sent, as asked. We had a pleasant chat.

This was an enjoyable day. Really enjoyed the forest walking.


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2000 Travels January 5

WEDNESDAY 5 JANUARY     HOBART

Today the weather was slightly more pleasant.

We have now been travelling for two years!

John’s stomach was improving, but still not right; more Imodium.

Chatted for a while with two couples from neighbouring vans who are from the Launceston area. They recommended the caravan park at Legana if we are visiting Launceston. one lot gave us their card and said to phone them if we do stay at Legana, which is where they live. Very friendly of them.

After a light lunch, we drove to Glenorchy, so John could do his internet thing. It did not work properly, so he was quite frustrated by that.

I returned my library books, mostly unread.

We drove to the city and to Sandy Bay to suss out the caravan park there, for when R visits. It was located more centrally for her to visit main city attractions. However, we did not think it suitable for us as the sites were very small and it seemed poorly drained – always of significance in these parts! It is in a very scenic part of town, though.

We went to Officeworks for John to get some printing paper – he thinks he might make us some “business” cards. It seems that more people are travelling with these – could be handy. We also priced their colour copy service for our next lot of Xmas cards – it might be a lot easier to get them printed for us!

John took the big torch to Black and Decker, for repair, but they could not fix the blown fluoro tube.

We went to A&R to see if the book ordered for me, before Xmas, was in – no. We used V’s Xmas book voucher to buy “Solomon’s Song” for John; he likes Bryce Courtenay books. I resisted buying the book on Hobart’s walks, since we expect to be leaving soon, and John is still not fit for much walking. We had just done enough exercise for him, around the shops!

Decided not to go walking around the docks again, which had been an idea of John’s, but to go for a drive instead. The hilly country up behind the northern suburbs was attractive, the other day, so we decided to go back there.

We drove up through Collinsvale the same way we had gone on Sunday, then took the Collins Cap road. Collins Cap and Collins Bonnet are peaks to the west. Thought this might be an interesting road. But we turned around when the narrow road became dirt. Signage is poor in these parts and I was worried that I would navigate us to very lost!

From back in Collinsvale, took the Glenlusk and then the Molesworth roads – fairly narrow and winding, but sealed – and with signs! From Molesworth, drove on through Malbina to New Norfolk. Between Molesworth and Malbina, had seen the other end of the Collins Cap road and realized that it was a through road, so we turned around at New Norfolk and took that. It began as sealed, but not for long, but was alright to drive, though very narrow and winding. For much of the way it was quite high up, following ridgelines, and so there were some excellent vistas down into valleys and for quite long distances. It is surprisingly rugged country up there, but very pretty. There were some very isolated, run down, feral seeming settlements we passed. Eventually came out at old familiar Collinsvale, the way we had already been twice! Drove back to the van, having driven 95kms.

It had warmed up through the day. We had even gotten a bit hot, when walking around the streets of Hobart.

We got back too late for me to make soup, so opened a can of celery soup. I poached a chicken breast for John to have with some potato. I had tinned tuna with mine.

After tea, John read and did some computer time. I wrote up the diary, and read.


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2000 Travels January 4

TUESDAY 4 JANUARY     HOBART

After the lovely weather for much of yesterday, the threatened rain did come in, and today was really cold, wet and windy – one of the worst weather days we’ve had in Tasmania! How quickly it changed! We needed the fan heater on for much of the day.

John was still feeling very poorly. He was resistant to the idea that his woes might be due to something he ate at the Taste of Tasmania. Apparently, there has been a gastric bug doing the rounds of southern Tasmania for a few weeks, so maybe he came by that. However, since I am fine, I subscribe to the first theory!

We drove to Glenorchy shops to return an unused video to the library. He had borrowed it to check if our machine was working, but hadn’t gotten round to doing so. He booked internet time for 1.30pm tomorrow. That is an awkward time because it cuts right across our day.

I cashed in out Tattslotto tickets – got back $82 in total. Not bad.

I put two films in for processing, including one from the automatic camera, that has been holding up my photo filing for some time. I try to put photos in the album in the order that events happened, and since I use the SLR camera mostly, this can happen. The photos will not be ready until late Thursday, as they are very busy after the holiday period.

We did not spend long away from the van, as John did not want to miss the cricket.

I started John on Imodium tablets at lunchtime. Might cut down the frequency of trips up the hill!

At some point, when next door turned on something electrical, the combination of that with our heater, jug and TV, caused the power to fail on the pole. The manager came and moved our lead to a different pole and that fixed the problem, it seemed.

Another light tea was called for: sweet potato soup, then a small amount of pasta mixed with some cooked peas, corn and zucchini.


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2000 Travels January 3

MONDAY 3 JANUARY     HOBART

John was definitely ill. He had a very upset stomach. I decided that my diagnosis was confirmed! He spent the day lying on the bed, watching cricket – the final Test was on in Sydney.

I did the washing, as it was a beautiful hot day, and quite windy. It was one of the nicest weather days we’d had, to date, in Tasmania.

I read through the afternoon. Drove to Claremont for papers, this morning.

By 4pm, there were signs of storms coming, but the washing had gotten dry by then, and been picked in.

Tea was another very light meal: sweet potato soup; a few pieces of boiled potato for John and some mashed potato for me.


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2000 Travels January 2

SUNDAY 2 JANUARY     HOBART

We relaxed on the morning. After a sleep-in, John seemed to be feeling better.

Consulted the various books and guides, and after an early lunch, then headed off.

We drove up Berriedale Road, towards  Collinsvale. I had seen a Myrtle Forest Picnic Area, and walk, briefly mentioned in a tourist pamphlet, and it did not seem very far from the van.

Berriedale Road became Glenlusk Road  and then that became Collinsvale Road. We kept going through the hamlet of Collinsvale, just hoping we were going the right way, and looking for signs. My pamphlet had basically just said it was beyond Collinsvale!

The road became a single strip of bitumen, then just over a single lane bridge, a Springdale Road sign also had a Myrtle Forest pointer on it. For the first time, I became optimistic we might actually find the place! Then we saw a road marked Myrtle Forest Road. Looked promising, even if it was really only a narrow lane. This soon became unsealed, but we continued on, to the picnic area.

It was a really pretty drive to get up there, once we left the suburbs behind, through valleys and hill country, some forested but much of it farms, until we got close to our destination.

Parked Truck at the picnic area, then walked up the Myrtle Forest Track for about an hour, beside a creek with lots of waterfalls. The track was slowly rising, quite scrambly and rough, and as we were walking through myrtle beech forest – as you would expect! – it was quite dimly lit. It was very pretty, and reminiscent, in parts, of the southern Overland Track, where the same forests occur.

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Fungi growing on a fallen log on the Myrtle Forest Track

The track continued on to Collins Cap, but that was too far for us today, so we retraced our route. It took us less time to get back to Truck, as the track was downhill all the way.

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The Myrtle Forest walking track

On the track we met a couple of walkers who told us where we actually were – in the back part of Wellington Park, the reserve that covers much of the range country behind Hobart. They showed us the walk, described in a book of Hobart/Mt Wellington Walks. It had been a fluke to find out about it the way I did – we nearly missed out on a gem of an experience.

We spotted our first new bird of the 21st century on the walk – the Tasmanian form of the white eye.

Returned to camp the way we had come. It would be all too easy to get lost in the maze of little roads in these ranges behind Hobart. It only took us a total of 35kms round trip today, to find such a wonderful bush experience.

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Tasmanian Christmas Bush – a Prosanthera

John had been feeling fairly well when we started the walk, but was quite ill again by the time we had driven back to the van. He had tummy gripes, a temperature, joint pains. I still suspect some type of food poisoning.

So John only wanted a light tea – soup. I had a corn cob, too.

It was fairly early to bed for him – and for me because he is disturbed by the light if I stay up.


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2000 Travels January 1

SATURDAY 1 JANUARY     HOBART

2000 – a new century and a new millennium

This is just a day like any other. There are no major millennium disasters apparent – unless, perhaps, you had to clean up the messes after the city revellers. One radio announcer summed it up, succinctly: “Hobart is awash in a sea of vomit!”  Having seen some of the behaviours of drunken Tasmanians, in public, this is about what I would expect. It certainly is a deterrent, for us, from going to certain events.

There was much “revisiting” coverage on TV and radio, over the day. It became rather boring, after a while.

John phoned siblings R, C and H. Daughter R. Also phoned K who was not home; John left a message to send the next batch of mail on Tuesday. I did not phone anyone.

John had discovered, last week, that the local bowls match he had entered us for, today, was for club members only, because they did not want “outsiders” taking prizes! John was quite miffed about this.

It seemed a good day to avoid the centre of town, so, after a toasted sandwich lunch, we drove the other way, to New Norfolk, further up the Derwent River. It was an attractive drive alongside the river. New Norfolk was settled by pioneers relocated from Norfolk Island in 1803, hence the name.

At a roadside fruit stall, I bought apricots and cherries. $19 worth. It was beautiful, tasty fruit.

In New Norfolk, we parked Truck, and visited the Oast House, where John went into the Museum. Oast houses were built to dry the hops that were grown in this area; the hops were used in beer brewing. It was a major industry around here and the museum in the Oast House focuses on that.

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The Oast House Museum at New Norfolk

I looked at some rather indifferent art works that were on display, then left John to explore the Oast House displays, and went outside and watched a small alpaca herd – they really are beautiful creatures. These looked to have not long been shorn.

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Freshly shorn alpacas

When John had finished in the Oast House, we walked the riverside track, back to town. This was a really pretty little walk.

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The Derwent River at New Norfolk

John was feeling increasingly poorly as the day wore on. He found the hill we had to climb to get back to Truck, very hard to manage, with several stops along the way. I wondered whether he ate something “off” yesterday? He even asked me to drive us back to the van! That meant he really was feeling very ill.

There was homemade potato and bacon soup for tea. John had a little of that. I also had salads and fresh fruit.