This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels January 30

SUNDAY 30 JANUARY     DOVER

The day began grey and continued that way throughout.

We decided to visit the Hastings Caves today. This was supposed to be quite spectacular.

The cave site was about 40 kms from Dover. We took the Huon Highway south, almost to the town of Southport, then took the Hastings road – unsealed – then the Caves Road off that. The road through Hastings is also the access road to points further south, so we would be coming this way again.

We aimed to reach the Caves in time for the 12.15 tour. One must do the guided tour to access the show cave – the Newdegate Cave. It cost us $10 each.

The Caves are in a really pretty forest area, although it has been logged in the distant past.

On the five minute walk from the carpark to the cave entry point, because we were early and ahead of the crowd, we heard – and then saw – a lyrebird. We had just been commenting that it was unusual for someone to be using a chainsaw, here, on a Sunday. Then saw the bird and realized that the totally realistic chainsaw noise was coming from him! He was doing much chattering to himself, too, and making a whole range of really interesting noises – one hell of a repertoire! I had not heard a lyrebird perform, ever before – it was wonderful.

The cave tour group was really too large. It was not a great idea of ours to come on a Sunday. There were some quite young children there, too, who were rather noisy and intrusive. There was also one very showy, loud, attention-seeking girl in her 20’s, with an entourage of three men for whom she was really performing – but she went really quiet when we got underground!

The cave was really spectacular, and in parts were caves within a cave. I do not like being underground, but made an exception to my usual rule because this was supposed to be so good. I liked it even less when the guide pointed out areas that flooded!

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Inside Newdegate Cave

We went down hundreds of steps, with the way fairly dimly lighted by electric light. Within the cave, strategically placed lighting highlighted the best of the formations. And they were brilliant. This is a dolomite limestone cave formation, which is fairly unusual. It was like being in a type of fairyland. The variety of stalactite and stalagmite structures was fascinating.

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Stalgmites and stalagtites

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Intricate flowing veil effect

The tour took nearly an hour. I was relieved to be above ground again, but really pleased I’d done the tour.

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Lighting enhanced the multitude of fascinating formations

We ate our picnic lunch beside a small river in the forest, then took the unsealed road Forest Drive back to Dover. This followed the Old Hastings Road, then what we assumed were main logging access roads through the forests. Eventually we crossed the Esperance River and the road followed this down to Dover.

There was much evidence of logging and its accompanying wastage, but it was a pleasant enough way to drive. The Esperance River crossing looked an attractive place to bring a picnic lunch out to, if we are ever at a loose end one day.

Back at Dover, we continued driving around the coast road, past the caravan park, as far as Police Point, which is up into the Huon estuary. Came back the same way – a really scenic and lovely little drive. There were great views across the Channel to Bruny Island, and across the Huon to the other side.

We had noticed salmon growing nets in the bay near Dover and there were more up near Police Point.

Back at the van, John took his fishing gear and walked up to the jetty to try his luck. No bites.

Tea was cold beetroot soup, cold pork and potato. I thought the soup was very nice but don’t think John was so sure!

I phoned K to let him know our location – left message on the machine. I had to use the phone box at the park – the mobile phone does not work down here.


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2000 Travels January 29

SATURDAY 29 JANUARY     DOVER

During the night it became extremely windy, and turned into one of the windiest days we’ve had in the van.

I drove up to the General Store to pick up the papers.

The power went off for a short time.

We stayed around the van, thinking it was too windy to go driving in the forest country around here.

The annexes of some other campers blew down. John had our awning roof firmly anchored.

We watched the Australian Open tennis on TV.

Late in the afternoon, we walked around the coastline, away from the town, for a couple of kms, following the road that parallels the coast. There were houses for a distance, then farmland. In places, there were small stretches of sand – little narrow beaches.

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Rough weather at Dover

It is so scenic here. In every direction, there are peaks and mountains in the distance, be it over the water towards Bruny Island, or in other directions. There are little islets in the bay – Hope, Faith and Charity Islands!

I cooked roast pork and apple sauce, with vegetables, for tea. It was very nice. I also made a cold beetroot and onion soup for coming days.


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2000 Travels January 28

FRIDAY 28 JANUARY   HOBART TO DOVER   101kms

After almost six weeks, we were finally leaving Hobart! The duration of this stay rivalled that of Atherton, in 1998 – another prolonged stay caused by waiting for a family visit.

John drove to Claremont for the paper and to refuel – 78cpl.

We did an unhurried pack up on a day that verged on rain, much of the time.

Our friend from up the top came down for a final chat. I gave him a 4WD magazine I’d bought because it had a review of the latest Defender in it.

We had a careful run through Hobart – there was really no way to avoid the centre of town!

Then it was south, to the small town of Dover. The route was familiar as far as Geeveston. After that, the road was quite hilly, winding, and narrow in parts.

The left hand brake on the van is still getting too hot. We really need to get it right before the next move.

We booked into the Dover Caravan Park for $14 a night, with the seventh night free. It is a pleasant park with good sized, grassy sites, though the grass is battling a bit with the drought. It is run by a father and teenage son. It is very neat and clean – and is for sale.

Across the road from the caravan park is a narrow reserve, and then the sea. Dover is located on an inlet off the D’Entrecasteux Channel, called Port Esperance. Settlement here began in the 1840’s with a convict establishment. The town was maintained as a timber milling centre, then a farming town and most recently, a fisheries centre.

We chose Dover as a base stay because much of the far south can be accessed from here, and it is really the last settlement of any size down this way. It really is central to a lot that attracts us.

After setting up and having lunch, we went for a walk around the shoreline and as far as the hotel and its jetty. As we then walked back through the town, stopped at the General Store and ordered the papers be kept for us.

The town seems pleasant. There are a lot of older cottages, and some holiday homes. As seems usual in Tasmania, there are numerous properties for sale.

John found the TV reception is only moderate. He came up with the idea of using string to bring the cable from the aerial inside, through the scupper vent on the roof. This allowed the cable to be hooked directly into the back of the TV and did improve the picture somewhat.

Through the afternoon, the caravan park filled up with what we assume is the weekend crowd, as used to happen at White Beach. There appear to be about a dozen permanent weekender vans in the park.

Tea was salmon and a jacket potato.

There is a good feeling about this place and I think we will enjoy it here.

01-28-2000 to dover


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2000 Travels January 27

THURSDAY 27 JANUARY     HOBART

We slept in until nearly midday – a measure of how tired we both were!

It was too late to do the washing, as I’d planned, and the weather looked threatening anyway, with much grey cloud.

The annexe sides were dry, so we took those down, along with the roof. Repacked Truck with all the things that had come out to make room for the third person.

John phoned the trustee dealing with his sister’s will, to find out when that might be settled. While R was here, we promised to give her an amount the same as we’d given the other three offspring, in recent years,  as their wedding presents. She can choose whether to invest or spend it. But we said it wouldn’t be until John received his bequest. Looks like that might be another couple of months yet.

We drove to Glenorchy and did a food shop and I collected photos I’d put in on Tuesday. Went to the bank, who seemed satisfied that “someone” had put the unauthorized charge on our card account. They cancelled the cards immediately. We would get the charge reversed, but would have to wait for new cards, and eventually collect them from a branch. Hmmm – that could pose an interesting challenge. They would phone us when the cards were ready to be sent on. We then went on to a caravan shop at Moonah to get a replacement light for one that had “exploded” a couple of days ago.

Back at the van, John fitted the light and it worked ok.

We spent some time talking to the couple who have a fairly large van, parked at the top of the hill, just across from the amenities. We have gotten to know them over our time here, as we walk past their van a number of times each day! They have just returned home to Tasmania after two years of travel, and are waiting for the rental on their east coast home to finish. He has an artificial leg, courtesy of an industrial accident. He would like to keep travelling but being close to the grandchildren is an issue for his wife.

We had an impulse tea of “special” pizzas from Dominoes.

School went back in Victoria today. I was so thankful not to be back there, doing that! It was the second anniversary of John’s official resignation too.


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2000 Travels January 26

WEDNESDAY 26 JANUARY     HOBART

We were all up early. R wanted to have lots of time to explore Richmond, and she also wanted to be at the airport an hour early.

We left camp at 8am and were in Richmond by 8.30am.

It was a drizzly day.

We all went and looked at the Catholic Church, then agreed to separate and sightsee at our own paces.

John and I went and looked at the jail, then had a lovely morning tea at the bakery – coffee and jam doughnuts and cheese sticks.

As agreed, we met up with R at midday. She gave us two large wine glasses, with a stained glass effect decoration – to thank us for the trip. They were quite lovely. As our storage space for fragile items is virtually non-existent, we asked if she could take them back with her and keep them for us, till we are home again.

It did not take long to drive from Richmond to the airport, so we had over an hour to sit around before the plane boarded.

After R’s flight left, we went back to camp, where John watched cricket on TV and we began to relax.

I went to the park office and paid $20 for the five nights R had stayed with us.

I was checking the bank and card statements that had been in the mail bag yesterday and found a strange item on our Mastercard statement. It was an overseas charge, for something that sounded vaguely indecent. It was for almost $50. John knew nothing of it, so we decided to go see the local bank branch tomorrow to try to sort it out.

Tea was a chop and a sausage each, potato, eggs for John, followed by cherries.


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2000 Travels January 25

TUESDAY 25 JANUARY     HOBART

We all slept in, so it was another slightly late start. John and I drove to Glenorchy for the mail and some odds and ends, while R was getting ready. I bought a BBQ chook that R said she wanted for lunch. Refuelled Truck – back to 78cpl.

We visited the Plenty Salmon Ponds first. I paid for us to go in. R enjoyed this place – she likes fish. I enjoyed visiting there again, too. John stayed in Truck, having done it before.

R said categorically that she did not want to do any bushwalking. However, since we were out this way, we thought we could at least drive into Mt Field as it is a pretty drive, and have our picnic lunch there. We did that, in the picnic area near the campground. John and R demolished the chook I’d bought; I’d made sandwiches for myself.

After that, R said she would be interested in the drive up to the Lake Dobson carpark, so we went up there. Then R wanted to do the Pandani Walk, which we did, then the also shortish Lyrebird Walk, ditto. She then said she’d have liked to do the Tarn Shelf walk, which is a big one, which we had actually thought about doing with her, at one stage, before she’d said she didn’t want to do any walking.

We drove back down to the day use and campground area and R and I walked to Russell Falls. John and R had not been getting on well and he opted to remain in Truck. She would have liked to go on to Horseshoe Falls and Lady Barron Falls but I did not feel like doing that and leaving John by himself for that long,  and she did not want to go alone.

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Russell Falls

We returned to Hobart via the Collins Gap Road – John was trying to provide another varied experience, this a dirt road one. The scenery was spectacular. Drove 173kms today.

Tea was fettucine and tomato sauce, followed by cherries.

Fairly early night for all of us.


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2000 Travels January 24

MONDAY 24 JANUARY     HOBART

We slept in until about 9.30, after the tiring day yesterday. R slept even later. We were rather slow to get ready for our day out.

We drove up Mt Wellington. R did not like the winding road and steep drops to the sides. I had opted to travel in the back seat while R is visiting, because in the Defender the back seat is high up so it is not all that easy to see well out of the side windows. One can see much more from the front. Being in the back seat on the winding road was not something I enjoyed either!

Up the top, R walked around the circle road at the top, seeming very interested in the remnants of snow and ice in sheltered spots. John and I admired the views over Hobart, again.

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Southern Hobart from Mt Wellington

We then drove back down the mountain, and south, down the so picturesque Huon Valley, to Geeveston

At the Forest Centre at Geeveston, John stayed in Truck. R did not want to pay money to go into the wood display and museum sections, so just looked around the shop. She bought a Huon pine bread knife to go with the board she’d bought at the Salamanca Markets.

We then drove up the Arve Road, behind Geeveston, into the forest and wilderness country, to the upper reaches of the Huon River.

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The upper Huon River

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Arve Forest Lookout and swamp gum

At the Tahune Reserve, we did the Huon Pine Walk. We all enjoyed the forest lookouts and the walk.

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A Huon Pine growing by the river

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Leatherwood flowers – the source of the best honey!

01-24-2000 the Arve forest

The Tahune wilderness forest, from lookout

We followed the Arve Loop Road back to Geeveston and then headed back for Hobart. Apparently, there was a jam factory and shop at Grove that R wanted to visit, but she only told us this when we were past it on the way back, and it was too late because the place was shut by then.

Tea was chicken dijonnaise, potato, zucchini, then strawberries. I thought it was a nice meal.

We drove 240kms today.


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2000 Travels January 23

SUNDAY 23 JANUARY     HOBART

We did manage to all get up early, and left camp about 7am.

There was a light dusting of snow on Mt Wellington, which explained why last night felt so cold! Today was chilly, with rain showers.

We drove first to the Coal Mines site at Saltwater River, thinking the contrast between this un-restored area and Port Arthur would be of interest. R enjoyed the area.

I left her and John to wander about together, whilst I went off looking for photo opportunities. There were some interesting light effects on Norfolk Bay, caused by the rain and storm clouds.

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Storm light over Norfolk Bay from the Coal Mines site

Then we drove to Port Arthur, through Nubeena. The entry fee to the Port Arthur site and the tour to the Isle of the Dead cost me $78 for the three of us. I also bought a Tasmanian Wilderness collared top, which was on sale at a heavily reduced price; my wardrobe needs something just a little dressy!

R seemed to want to see everything at Port Arthur, at a great speed. She found our pace too slow, when we lingered at the Model Prison, and went off ahead. We just kept on at a comfortable pace for us and met up with her at the boat entry point. She was worried that she would miss out on what she wanted to do, if we didn’t keep up with her.

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Port Arthur church

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The Model Prison

The Isle of the Dead tour was excellent and we all enjoyed that.

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On the Isle of the Dead – the burial place for Port Arthur in convict times

After that tour we had lunch. I bought us all pies and quiches. After eating, we agreed to follow her around, as  she did not like the alternative idea of going off alone and then rendezvousing at an agreed place. So, we trekked around the lot, partly in rain. It was tiring.

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Display board showing Port Arthur as it was when in use

R really liked Smith O’Brien’s Cottage. He was an Irish nationalist, transported for treason for his political activities. Despite the cottage having his name, he only spent less than a year living there, before gaining a ticket of leave. I remember it was a YHA youth hostel in the 1960’s, and supposedly haunted. A very practical, unimaginative friend of mine spent a night alone there, around 1961 and he swore there was “something” terrifying there!

I can understand the impact that the Port Arthur site has on the first-time visitor, but a this was my fourth visit to the place, I really did feel that there were some parts I did not need to see again.

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So beautiful, so ugly….

It was getting late by the time we finished at Port Arthur, and headed off to look at some of the “natural” features of the area.

We visited Remarkable Cave, the Blowhole, Tasman Arch, the Devils Kitchen, and Waterfall Bay. R did not seem impressed by the first two, but seemed more interested in the other places.

At Waterfall Bay we were really lucky and privileged to be able to watch some large seals herding schools of little fish together, and then charging into the mass to eat them. That was fascinating.

It seemed a long drive back to Hobart. We drove 314kms today. John did a really good job on what was a really demanding day on his legs.

I had intended to buy pizza for tea, as it was so late, but R said she does not eat that sort of thing. So, back at the van, I cooked up a tin of tomato soup, then made baked beans on toast for R, and toasted cheese and sardines on toast for John and me. R did not like the smell of the sardines and went and sat outside.

We did not stay up long after tea – it had been a long and tiring day.


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2000 Travels January 22

 SATURDAY 22 JANUARY     HOBART

We were up fairly early. John drove off to get the papers, plus some yoghurt, which R wanted for breakfast, rather than our staples of grapefruit and weetbix. After John came back with the yoghurt, she decided to have a toasted tomato and cheese sandwich, instead.

Breakfast over, we drove into Hobart, to go to the major attraction of the Salamanca Place Markets. Salamanca Place is in the docks part of Hobart and the old stone buildings that line one side of it were once warehouses, dating from the early 1800’s. Every Saturday, there is a large open air market held there – fresh produce, food, crafts.

We trudged around the markets for several hours, basically just following R from stall to stall. I bought some cherries – we seem to get through a lot of these, lately! R bought some wood products, and an enamel picture of irises – we gave her the $50 for this, as an early birthday present.

R and J had bratwurst hot dogs for lunch; I bought a loaf of bread and ate some of that.

Overall, we had a comprehensive exposure to the market stalls, I thought. I’d have liked to explore some of the really interesting exhibition centres and galleries that occupy some of the former warehouses, but the others were not interested.

We suggested doing the two hour Derwent River – Iron Pot Light boat trip and R was keen on that idea.

We had a wander around the Constitution Dock area, whilst waiting for the cruise time. The former IXL Jam Factory and warehouse buildings by the Dock are superb. I think I read somewhere that they are to be restored and developed, possibly as some type of accommodation complex – what a great location!

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The old IXL Jam Factory at the Constitution Dock area

There was a beautiful Huon pine sailing boat moored at the dock.

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Huon Pine sailing ship

The boat trip went from 2pm till 4pm. We thought it was good value, even though the sea was rather rough. R went to sleep part-way through the trip, so missed much of what there was to see. It really was scenic.

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Stormy weather on the Derwent

The Iron Pot is a lighthouse on a small rocky islet at the entrance of the Derwent River, from Storm Bay. It is a significant feature because it is an unusual square shape; it was the first lighthouse built in Tasmania, in 1832, and the second in Australia. The name may have come from an earlier beacon here – a fire lit in an iron whaling pot. Once there was, as well, a two storeyed lighthouse keeper’s house and an assistant keeper’s house, on this small bit of rock!

01-22-2000 Iron Pot from boat

The iron Pot Lighthouse

Back on land, we did a short walk around the core of historic Battery Point. As the name suggests, there was a gun battery here – probably due to fears of French invasion. The area that grew behind it was home for the garrison officers and for sailors.

We explored Kelly’s Steps – built by a sea captain to reach his cottage, Hampden Road, Arthurs Circus – little cottages built around a central garden area, that once would have had the flagpole for the morning assembly. My best friend, whilst at uni in Hobart in the 60’s, rented one of these cottages. It is a fascinating area.

Today was a full one, marred a little by poor weather and rain. John did well to manage as much walking and standing about as he did.

Refuelled Truck on the way back to the van – 76cpl.

Tea was gazpacho, pork with garlic and mushrooms, and strawberries. R did not like the idea of cold soup when I told her what we were having, and asked that hers be heated up.

We did not stay up very late, because we had planned an early get away for tomorrow, for a big day out, to Port Arthur area. As R only has five days here, we would be busy every day.


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2000 Travels January 21

FRIDAY 21 JANUARY     HOBART

Today was still windy and definitely colder. Heatwave over!

We put the sides onto the annexe, to make a “room” for R’s coming visit, and rearranged the storage inside Truck, to free up the back seat for a passenger. Set up the banana lounge bed, complete with the two sleeping bags, since it is getting colder.

We drove to Glenorchy and did a food shop. At the library there, John had booked an hour on the internet. I’d planned to try to do some research on mum’s family, while he was doing that. However, I needed CDRom access to the Pioneers Register. I was able to apply for a full birth certificate for mum, to start the backtrack process. That cost $25. It was a pity I didn’t start this process earlier, as I could have gotten a booking for the CDRom at the library.

We went back to the van, unloaded the shopping, then John went to bowls practice at the local club.

Tea was gazpacho, bread, cheese. John also had some little skinless franks. I had coleslaw. Stewed apricots to finish.

After tea we chatted for a while with a 14 year old who was camped near us. He told us his dad had been killed by falling logs, eight years ago. John tried to persuade him not to leave school too early.

We drove out to the airport, to collect R from her flight, arriving at 10.35pm. Then it was 15 minutes late. It was dark by then, and R seemed very impressed with the city lights and their reflections in the river, as we drove back across the Derwent. It really was very pretty.

Back at the van, we talked for a while, so it was 1am before we all retired to bed. R said she was satisfied with the annexe arrangements.