This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels August 6

FRIDAY 6 AUGUST   ALICE SPRINGS TO PALM VALLEY   155kms

Today is the second anniversary of John’s hip operation. I hope that is a good omen!

We finally got away, though it took us until midday.

It took quite a while to finalize the van for storage. There was much had to go inside the van, that we couldn’t put in until we were out, including the two bikes.

John had been concerned about vans being moved around in the storage area, but they assured him that our van would not be moved again, once it was in. We backed it in very well, ourselves. The stored vans are quite close together. It is going to cost us $2 a day.

I booked us on for four nights on our return – definite dates to be confirmed later. This will give John a chance for some bowls, again!

Then we had the real final shopping to do: wine casks, a beanie and new thongs for John, kerosene for the lantern. I bought a ticket in a big jackpot lotto draw. Picked up the result sheet for the last Territorian lottery and found I’d won $10. That will be a cheque that is mailed home.

And so we left town………

We headed west, towards Hermannsburg. Larapinta Drive looked different, this time, with cloudy skies. The range was very orange. Stopped to eat our packed lunch at the picnic area at the Hugh River crossing.

At Hermannsburg, took the Palm Valley track to the south. The 21km track was fairly rough, rocky in places, certainly needing high clearance, but not really 4WD. The track parallels the Finke River, was sometimes in its dry bed, then branched off along Palm Creek to the west.

We reached the Palm Valley campground mid afternoon, signed ourselves in at the information bay/entry station – $5 each a night. It is National Park.  Camp sites were delineated by bollards. There were plenty empty, so we had a good choice of where to go.

Set up camp. The first time is always the slowest – I hope!

The camp ground is alongside Palm Creek – dry, of course. It is in quite a deep valley, so there are red rock walls on both sides of us. There is quite a good little amenities block, with flush toilets and solar heated showers. There is a free gas BBQ.

The birdlife around the campground is prolific – crows, ringneck parrots, mynahs, butcherbirds, magpies – so there was much bird noise. There were also circling kites overhead.

From our site, we sat and looked across the grassy creek valley to a red cliff face with caves and hollows in it. There are cypress pines on the top.

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Our Palm Valley camp

Read yesterday’s paper, brought with us, which we didn’t have time for then.

There was a superb red sunset.

Tea was the last of the minestrone soup, rissoles, salad, bananas.

We went to the Ranger’s talk at 8pm. It was about the special Livistona palms that are the reason for this National Park. We haven’t seen them yet, though. They are relict plants from a wetter time, when there was tropical vegetation in these parts. They are able to survive here because of water seeping out of the sandstone of the valley.

The Ranger also said that the water here is good to drink.

We got to bed at 10pm. It was cold by then.

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1999 Travels August 5

THURSDAY 5 AUGUST     ALICE SPRINGS

This was a busy day. The rain was clearing, which pleased us.

We spent much of the  day packing and moving stuff between the van and Truck. I defrosted the van fridge, turned that off and we put the fridge things we are taking with us, into the Chescold.

Had to go out. for John to use the pre-booked Internet time at the Library. While he was doing that I went to the Post Office and collected a letter from H – another one! I had a print made of the photo of John and me collecting our Mildura bowls trophy, and mailed that off to our bowls club, along with a cheque for our ’99 subs.

Did what I thought was the final shopping for the trip, except that it turned out to be semi-final!

Though we worked all day, it did not seem as bad as when we went through this routine to go up the Cape, last year. But we will not be away for as long, this time. We are only taking the hike tent, as we probably will not be staying long in any one place.

So, instead of the weight of the big tent and its associated poles, we will have the weight of the water that we will need to carry for the desert section. There will also be two jerry cans of diesel, and the second spare wheel, up on the roof rack.

Planning meals has been an interesting exercise. We need food that will keep well, as we only have the Chescold fridge; fresh meat is not an option after the first day or so. I was conscious of trying to keep weight down, but also had to avoid things like pasta that use a lot of water for cooking. It was not easy.

We had prepared a proposed schedule. Took a copy of this to K at VKS base, also mailed a copy to K. Told VKS K that we would try to sched in every afternoon. As an experienced operator and traveller in these parts, he knows that conditions may not always allow us to make contact, though. Instructed K that if we had not phoned him by the 25th of this month, he was to sound the alarm with the Birdsville Police – contact number provided!

VKS K said that the Old Ghan Track to Finke was in pretty bad condition. He’d been down there yesterday, helping Variety Club Bash people through. However, these are usually conventional cars, not 4WD’s. K said he nearly rolled his vehicle in a sand/bulldust area – and he is a very experienced driver. We shall see, but I admit to some apprehension.

Topped up the fuel at the local servo – was 82cpl, but it was too late to drive out to the refinery.

We were very tired by the end of the day and bought fish and chips for tea. Slept very soundly!


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1999 Travels August 4

WEDNESDAY 4 AUGUST     ALICE SPRINGS

Back to the town centre for more money spending!

At the gemstone shop, the verdict was that all four zircons would cut, but she wanted us to go to her home and see her husband, the cutter. So that was arranged.

We picked up the wheel with its new tyre.

Did a huge grocery shop for the coming expedition.

After lunch, went to see the gem cutter – S. He has the most incredible shed and back yard. He is a really eclectic collector: stones, shells, stuffed reptiles. He has brilliant gemstones and specimens. We spent about three hours there. He looked at a lot of the zircons and garnets we had collected, and “formed” some to assess their suitability for use. We finished up ordering two garnets to be cut for ring stones, and more for a set of garnet earrings. Two zircons would be cut for ring stones, possibly three. And he would cut zircons for five sets of good stud earrings. He kept some “spare” zircons, in case some didn’t cut well.

By the time we left his place, it was 5.30pm – and cold and raining. It was too late to begin the packing that we had intended.

Tea was minestrone, steak, mushrooms, potato, beans, and ice cream.

It is actually quite nice to hear rain again. It is not too heavy. Hopefully, it may settle down some of the Finke track, churned up by the Desert Race earlier.


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1999 Travels August 3

TUESDAY 3 AUGUST     ALICE SPRINGS

The day was mostly cloudy, but quite warm. That figures – I buy winter gear and it warms up! But the washing got dry.

Drove into town, firstly to the specialist gem shop. The lady there said that all our biggest and best garnets were too dark to cut. I think they were the ones from the last hole we tried. She kept four of our zircons to show to her husband, who does the cutting. We go back tomorrow for his verdict.

We dropped off a wheel at a tyre place, to have a new tyre put on. One day, out at Gemtree, John had noticed a large split on the side of a tyre, and had changed the wheel. He thinks we probably slit it on a sharp rock on one of the rough tracks. It looks too bad to be repaired, and we do not want a suspect spare, at this stage.

We picked up new clear headlight covers, previously ordered, from the Landrover place.

To the Post Office. The girl behind the counter said there was no mail for us. When we queried this, she said there was only mail for J and W Stocey. She swore she could not have made a mistake and would not do a double check on this. So, apparently, there was no mail for us.

At the chemist, I had a script filled, and bought a couple of bandages to replace those I’d worn on my cut hand, fossicking – which had gone mouldy.

John booked at the Library for Internet access for Thursday.

I broke the buckle on my leather sandals. This leaves me without good sandals, but I think it can be fixed – if I can find a bootmaker.

Collected my photos – was very pleased with them. Lots of good Gemtree ones.

To Coles for food supplies.

Phoned K. He HAD sent the mail, as asked, on 27th. So we went back to the Post Office and asked to see a manager. He checked. Yes – our mail was there. And had been all along. The arrogant little snit we had dealt with earlier was a trainee, he said. I hope I was scathing enough about her unhelpful manner to ensure she got a very strong reprimand!

There was only business type mail, but some of it was tax relevant, so John was able to finish off his tax documentation, ready to send off to the accountant.

I picked in the washing and put it away, then started to put photos in the album, while John was working on the computer.

Tea was sausages, egg, bacon, potato, and – a special treat – icecream!

I phoned K to say we had received the mail.

John phoned R and had a talk with her, and sister H – it is her birthday.

We have decided that we are going to do the circuit trip I have planned, that takes in the Simpson Desert, on our own. We will set up some safeguards. like making sure people know our plans, and we will rely on the HF Radio for communications. I have already found out that the caravan park will store the van; we have looked at their storage area and are happy with its security.


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1999 Travels August 2

MONDAY 2 AUGUST    ALICE SPRINGS

There were some minute drops of rain early in the morning. It stayed cloudy through the morning, but began to clear in the afternoon.

It was very much a day of odds and ends – which are surprisingly time consuming.

We had a bit of a buying spree in K Mart – mostly some more WINTER clothes! Browsed the newsagent. Put films in for processing.

We drove out of town about 10kms to the south, to the refinery, where we’d been told we could get cheap diesel. It was, too, 74cpl.

Back at camp, I did four loads of washing, which didn’t get dry, so it will have to be hung out again tomorrow. I had intended to start the washing earlier, but the machines were all in use then.

Tea was a chicken stir fry, with rice.

Phoned V. They are staying with friends in Port Hedland; they have needed new springs for the station wagon. They have been to Millstream/ Chichester and Karijini National Parks. They may stay on for a while and work in Hedland – she has been offered work at a roadhouse. They certainly have had no trouble finding work on their trip.


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1999 Travels August 1

SUNDAY 1 AUGUST   GEMTREE TO ALICE SPRINGS   151 kms

We were up at about 8am. Left at 10, which was not bad, considering that we had not done a great deal of pre-packing, and we’d been here nearly a month. I would not have predicted that we would have been here for nearly this long! It is a measure of the really pleasant camp ground and the draw of the wonderful range country, more than the mining itself. It has been a great stay.

We called in at the office to say goodbye. The owner showed us a zircon that he’d found in 1986, that he had just cut for a German tourist – $900 worth. It was a wonderful purple colour. We decided, very early in our stay here, that we would not get our finds cut here, because that can be done more cheaply elsewhere.

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Goodbye to Gemtree

Topped up the fuel at Gemtree, to be on the safe side. 99cpl.

The skies looked quite threatening as we left Gemtree, but remained as cloud only, with no rain.

It was an uneventful drive back to Alice Springs, but not boring, with the distant ranges ahead and to the sides.

We went back into the McDonnell Ranges Caravan Park – $17.10 a night, after Big 4 discount.

Set up. Had lunch. Then it was off to the shops to stock up on things we had run out of. Wine was one of these.

In the car park outside Coles, there were several aboriginals – of both genders – begging shoppers for money. There are no security services on duty on Sunday, it seems – usually they patrol the carpark. When a couple of individuals – separately – asked us for money to buy food, John offered to go and buy them something to eat and bring it back for them. They swore at him! Not so hungry, after all – just thirsty!

Tea was soup, rissoles, vegies.

We have TV again. Has been a pleasant break from it, for me!

I phoned K to report our location, and John phoned daughter S.


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1999 Travels July 31

SATURDAY 31 JULY     GEMTREE

John revealed over breakfast that he really wanted to go back to the garnet valley and have a dig at the hole in the creek bed that he’d explored at the end of our last day out there. I was rather expecting this, as he’d seemed to have an attitude that it was unfinished business.

John chatted to the woodman, who said we could borrow a bin top for a sieve. He’d made a new one the other day, when he noticed one gone – and then it had turned up again. John ‘fessed up!

Took  lunch with us and drove out what, by now, is a familiar route.

We dug from 11am till 2.30pm and found several cutters. I looked only for bigger pieces and left chips and obvious non-cutter pieces alone. We have already found enough, so being fussy is a luxury.

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The last, and best, area

An Englishman appeared in the gully. His only experience was having done the Gemtree tour. John offered him advice, encouraged him to dig near us. He found some pieces. We suggested that he move into “our” hole, when we finished.

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It is hard work

We left mid afternoon, feeling that we really had done it all justice.

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This local was curious about our digging activity

There was a surprising amount of traffic on the Plenty, coming towards us. We worked out that locals were heading into Harts Ranges settlement for Saturday night festivities.

Back at Gemtree, John packed up the mining gear and the back of Truck.

I sorted today’s garnets properly – a good haul, it seems.

I made soup – minestrone. Talked with assorted neighbours and visitors.

Tea was soup, then steak, potatoes, onions, pumpkin – all done on the BBQ plate or in the coals. All very nice.

We decided not to go to paddy melon bowls but just have a final quiet night, sitting at the fire, watching the stars and soaking in the bush surrounds for the last time for a while.

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Our final Gemtree campfire


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1999 Travels July 30

FRIDAY 30 JULY     GEMTREE

Last night was definitely much warmer.

Today was another camp-based day, resting the muscles and assorted sore bits.

John made potato bread, and rolls that we ate for lunch.

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Bread making morning

I sorted garnets and discarded anything I wasn’t sure would cut. Again, a reject pile was put out into the mulga clumps.

I phoned Alice Springs and booked us in there again.

There was quite a lot of cloud in the afternoon, but it was one of the hottest days we’ve had here – shorts and T-shirt. Nice for a change.

We had pre-dinner drinks with an English couple who are camped near us. They are driving a Defender they have shipped from England. Last year, they drove it from south to north, through Africa. Very adventurous.

I was intending to make soup and had soaked beans for it, but ran out of time to do so, due to going to visit the English camp.

Tea was rissoles and pieces of potato, all cooked on the BBQ plate, and coleslaw. We ate out by the fire, talking with a couple who had arrived today and set up camp nearby – they are from Tasmania.


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1999 Travels July 29

THURSDAY 29 JULY     GEMTREE

Took a packed lunch and drove back out to the FA9 garnet creek gully again. The track in there is really quite rough. There is a maze of tracks – following the mud map involves quite a bit of guesswork, and I’d find it very difficult to describe to someone else how to find that exact spot.

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The track into our garnet fossicking area

We dug at the hole in the upper creek valley and found a few garnets.

As I was finishing off the last couple of sieve lots, John went down the creek a bit further and found a couple of good looking stones from a hole there.

By the time we headed back to camp, we were both really tired. My finger ends are sore and splitting, from dryness, dirt, and spending a lot of time wet. Fortunately, the thumb is healing.

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This was not such a successful area

Drove 84kms.

Tea was soup, BBQ chops marinated in lemon juice, garlic and rosemary, potatoes and tomatoes in foil, cooked in the fire.

There was some cloud about today, and the night seems warmer.


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1999 Travels July 28

WEDNESDAY 28 JULY     GEMTREE

The Office people told us that there was worthwhile sightseeing out at a place called Painted Canyon, to the east. They gave us a mud map.

We drove about 65kms along the Plenty Highway, to the east. Despite the map, I missed the turnoff, which was fairly indistinct and not signed, and we had to back track. Then we drove – slowly – for about 10kms to the south. This is in the Harts Range, proper, and it is rugged and very scenic country, on Mt Riddock Station, still.

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The track into Painted Canyon

For the last part of the way, we had to drive up the dry bed of Eblana Creek. Where we had to leave Truck, was another vehicle. It belonged to an 85 year-old solo traveller, who we met walking back to his vehicle. He’d walked the couple of kms to reach the Painted Canyon and was returning. He said it was hard work in the sandy bed. We agreed.

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From this point, we walk

However, the effort was worth it. The name relates to the banded and multi coloured rock outcrops and canyon walls found here.

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The multi-coloured rocks of Painted Canyon

There were also more of the white quartz occurrences. It all looked complex and contorted enough to be of interest to a geologist. There are the remains of a lot of mica mines in this central section of the Harts Ranges, too.

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This formation looks interesting

The gravels in the dry creek bed are, in places, red, containing fine sand worn down from garnets. In parts of the rock walls we could see layers of fine garnet gravel embedded.

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Garnet stone embedded in parent rock

We walked and climbed up through the Canyon, cut by Eblana Creek,  and out the other side in to more open country.

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Looking back the way we had come, through Painted Canyon

07-28-1999 08 quartz outcrop country Painted Canyon

Harts Range country beyond Painted Canyon

We had lunch there, and then walked up Little Painted Canyon. In some ways, this one was better. It has been formed by Migma Creek, but rather than being able to walk through with only a little climbing,  here we had to climb up rock faces that would be waterfalls if there was ever enough rain.

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Little Painted Canyon

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Migma Creek bed in Little Painted Canyon

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Towards the end of Painted Canyon, looking back down Migma Creek

Climbed up this canyon to a white quartz hill vantage point, that gave good views.

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Quartz outcrop beyond Little Painted Canyon

The day had become quite warm down in the canyons, and I was wishing I’d worn shorts!

These places were great subjects for photos. Clearly, relatively few tourists get to come here. We have been fortunate that our extended stay at Gemtree has established our credentials and genuine appreciation of the area. There is a lot to be gained by not rushing into places, whizzing about and rushing on to the next.

Along the main Eblana Creek, we came across places where “cemented” rock walls had been made at the base of rock slopes, to collect water in this arid country, by the mica miners of the past. The fact that these were so small emphasized their need to gather even little amounts of water, wherever they could.

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A pioneer dam at the side of Eblana Creek (centre of photo)

Made our way back the way we’d come. Drove 166kms today.

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The Painted Canyon Track in Eblana Creek bed

Back at camp, I marinated chicken breasts in garlic, lime and ginger.

We started tea with soup, then the chicken cooked on the BBQ plate, potatoes in foil cooked in the fire, and coleslaw.

The night was freezing, but the moon was full. There was a partial eclipse of this that we watched.