This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels July 12

WEDNESDAY 12 JULY     WYNDHAM

We decided that, since we are here, we will spend a couple of days doing the touristy things.

Today was cloudy, hazy, but hot. Wyndham does battle with Marble Bar for recognition as WA’s hottest town, it seems. Wyndham claims to have the highest consistent average temperatures.

We drove to the original, old town, port area and looked around it. The town is strung out on pockets of land between tidal salt flats, and squashed by the steep rise of the Bastion Range behind it. It is dislocated, and more like two nearby townships – the Old Town and the Three Mile which is the newer – and nicer – part.

After the early gold rush petered out, the little port serviced the needs of the big pastoral holdings of pioneers like the Durack family. In 1919 the meatworks opened, so beef was exported, but this closed in 1985. For a while, after WW2, beef was frozen here and flown to Britain – the Air Beef Scheme. I remember learning about this at school, in the 1950’s! These days, live cattle are exported from Wyndham.

The old town seems pretty decrepit now. The old meatworks buildings are run down.

Signs near the meatworks warn of the dangers of crocodiles. Apparently, in the meatworks days, the crocs were well fed by the discharge of blood and offal into the sea here – and crocs have long memories, it seems, and still hang about that area!

There is a new bulk fertilizer storage facility at the wharf area, and they are working on wharf upkeep.

We walked out on the wharf and looked at life on the mudflats exposed by the tide – there was a heron feeding, mud skippers, crabs and the like. Quite busy there, and quite engrossing.

There had been a load of cattle shipped out yesterday.

We then drove up The Bastion, the big peak behind the town, to see the outlook from the top. The road rose steeply, and twisted around, giving some rather good views as we went.

Five rivers empty into the Cambridge Gulf – the Durack, Pentecost and King, south of Wyndham, and the Forrest and Ord to the north. We have been by the Ord River already; will ford the Pentecost, Durack and King Rivers on the Gibb River Road. The Forrest River is the only one we will not encounter, in the remote country to the NW of Wyndham.

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Looking south from The Bastion. King River entry at left, Pentecost River straight ahead

The view from the Bastion was very “different” – out over the salt flats and the Gulf. And very impressive. The smoke haze make the colours interesting too.

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Looking north, over the tidal flats beside Cambridge Gulf

Drove back down again, and went to the Three Mile Valley, where there was a walking track along a creek, but we did not feel like walking in the heat, so just looked at the area and went back to camp for lunch.

After that, drove out to Marlgu Billabong, in the Parry Creek Wetlands Reserve. We took the highway back out of Wyndham for a little way, then turned back to the east. It was a great drive, some of it over dirt roads. The bird life was superb, and we had no trouble watching birds for a couple of hours. The late afternoon light on the lagoon was just beautiful.

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Parrys Lagoon

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Late afternoon light over Parrys Lagoon

Then it was back to camp for tea of sausages and vegies.

Again, I had nightmares about the van – it being ransacked and destroyed – and got very little sleep. I just have a really bad feeling about this.


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2000 Travels July 11

TUESDAY 11 JULY   LAKE ARGYLE TO WYNDHAM   180kms

We were up early to do more packing up and move the van to the storage area.

The day was really hot and sticky.

John did not like the long, dead grass where the van was put, so borrowed a spade and hacked it back for a couple of metres. I didn’t like the location at all – thought it was very vulnerable. There were no fences, gates, lights at night, surveillance at all. This was really not what we’d had in mind, at all. Thought it would be stored near the resident caretaker, like it was at Wonga. They told John they never have any trouble with stuff there, but I still felt really uneasy. Maybe it was just separation anxiety?

It was the middle of the day when we finally we ready to head off in Truck. We stopped by the roadside, not far out of the Argyle settlement, and ate our lunch of cold left over fish from last night.

In Kununurra, bought alcohol for a month, and methylated spirits to prime the lamp, because I thought I’d forgotten to pack what we had in the van. John bought a pie and sausage roll – he was hankering for a last high calorie “fix”!

Refuelled Truck at the BP – 99cpl – a lot cheaper than the Shell fuel the other day.

Headed west out of Kununurra. Along the road, decided it was too late in the afternoon to go on to Jacks Waterhole, on the Gibb River Road, as we’d planned, so stayed on the faster, sealed road and went to Wyndham instead.

07-09-2000 Ord below Diversion Dam

The Ord River downstream of the Diversion Dam and the highway

It was a very scenic drive with ranges always somewhere in view. We drove through some burning off.

Then we started to see large areas of tidal mud flats to our left. Wyndham is situated beside Cambridge Gulf, a very large inlet where five large rivers feed in to the sea. The town began as a small port for the Halls Creek gold rushes in the late 1800’s. Then, through much of the 1900’s, it was an export point for Kimberley beef.

I was expecting a town more in keeping with its history and was disappointed that it seemed rather small and dilapidated.

We booked into the Wyndham Caravan Park, for $18.70 a night. It was back a couple of blocks from the main street. There were only a few formal sites, but lots of shady trees. The amenities were adequate.

We set up the big tent. It took a while, but John wanted the extra space and ease of access.

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The big tent set up at Wyndham Caravan Park

We soon discovered there were sandflies! Probably not surprising, given the tidal mud flats and mangroves not too far away.

In a nearby caravan, there was much yelling and abusing of young children! Not pleasant.

John was still full from his earlier indulgences. He had some watermelon for tea. I had some salad and feta cheese.

We were both really tired so it was an early night. I had nightmares about disasters befalling the van, so I guess I really was uneasy about leaving it where it was.

07-11-2000 to wyndham


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2000 Travels July 10

MONDAY 10 JULY   KUNUNURRA TO LAKE ARGYLE   79kms

Hot day again. We seem to have settled into a regular pattern of clear skies and days in the low 30’s.

We packed up and got away from the caravan park in good time.

Parked the rig at the shops and did a very big shop – groceries and meats. The butcher cryovacced my meat packs so they would last longer. Once we leave the van, there will only be the Chescold fridge.

It was too early to stock up on alcohol – outlets for this do not open until midday. We’d get some when we come back through Kununurra on Tuesday.

Drove out to Lake Argyle, where John had arranged, when we were last there, to store the van at the caravan park. Once again, we admired the incredibly dramatic country we passed through.

Paid $17.60 for our powered site for the night. John was shown where the van would be kept – in the Works area – and said he was sort of satisfied.

The site we were on was unshaded. It was a very hot day out here, and we had a lot to do. Had to pack the Truck, and move things between van and Truck. We’d done this before, for the Cape York and the Simpson Desert trips, without the van, so it was at least, a familiar process.

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Our open site at lake Argyle

I washed a small load that had accumulated.

I bought some silver cobbler fish at the hotel and cooked it and fries for tea. We couldn’t eat it all!

We were both very tired and had an early night


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2000 Travels July 9

SUNDAY 9 JULY     KUNUNURRA

Today felt even hotter!

After breakfast, we drove out to the Top Rockz Gallery, off the Ivanhoe road.

On the way, bought some grapefruit – big ones – from a roadside stall.

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M

The gallery features, in particular, the unusually coloured  stone that is unique to this area. Zebra rock is the main one – striped, as the name suggests. There is also ribbon stone and rainbow stone. Jewellery and wood craft products  were displayed too.

The zebra stone is a soft silt stone, so it is easily carved and shaped in to all sorts of products, from earrings to wine bottle holders.

I bought a rainbow stone “scene” – a small rectangle, with a mirage like effect. At home, John can make a small easel to display it. Also bought a set of six rainbow stone circular coasters. John could make a wooden box to hold these. It is such an unusual stone.

We saw some good ideas for wooden  boxes: one with sides made from banksia cones, with a solid lid and base. One could also use banksia cone segments in box lids. We saw rainbow stone slices set in box lids.

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Zebra rock chunk, rainbow stone coaster and “mirage” panel

 

On the way back, we bought melons at the Melon Patch – that’s the place we liked in ’93. They had three melons for $2, so I bought nine assorted ones. Also bought some more vegetables.

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Local produce (not the beer!)

Back at the van, I had a long swim, and we did some packing up.

John emptied the 15 litres from the jerry can into the fuel tank, then went and completely refilled it, at the Shell servo – $1.07cpl. We did not expect fuel availability would be an issue where we are going – there are roadhouses, stations and community supplies.

Rafter made the tennis final, but lost to Sampras.

Tea was steak and vegetables.


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2000 Travels July 8

SATURDAY 8 JULY     KUNUNURRA

It was another hot day.

After breakfast, I walked up to the street markets, held in the main park area of town. I bought bananas and some vegetables. Collected the Saturday papers too. That was today’s main exercise, though I did later have a swim in the very nice pool at the caravan park. The water was surprisingly cold.

John watched tennis and football on TV and pottered about.

There were more arrivals into the camp across the road. It is the Kimberley Christian Fellowship Convention. I decided that explained the cleaner, more purposeful and organized nature of the camp.

Tea was fried rice.


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2000 Travels July 7

FRIDAY 7 JULY     KUNUNURRA

Today was another day of blue sky and sunshine, around 31 degrees. It was actually becoming rather humid.

We had much to do to prepare for the Gibb River Road trek.

Because John wanted to watch Pat Rafter play at Wimbledon, and so did not want to be doing trip preparation, we would now not leave till Monday, so I went to the Office and “bought” another night.

We went to the CALM Office and bought an Annual Parks Pass for WA. It cost $51, but would get us free entry into all the National Parks that charge entry fees. We should recoup the cost quickly, as we are planning to be in WA until at least the end of next summer.

We did not shop for groceries today – John said we’d do that on the way out, on Monday.

A large group of aboriginals arrived and set up camp over the road from the Park, at the Showgrounds. They put up tents. There was much using of the showers over there and the noise of their abrupt chatter and calling. It was obviously some sort of organized group.

After lunch, we drove out to Hidden Valley National Park, or Mirima, which is just on the edge of town. It is a small park, day use only, that features really spectacular sandstone erosion formations. From their appearance, I presume they are closely related to the Keep River formations.

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Head Lice Dreaming rock formations. The little path can be seen, winding through the spinifex.

We did the 1km walk up to the main lookout. It was more rugged than I remembered from 1993 – maybe it is that I am older? The rough track wound up through narrow little valleys between the rock forms.

From the lookout at the top, there were expansive views out over Kununurra and across the irrigated country.

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That little walk was enough exertion for the day!

Tea was bought fish and chips.

There was another nearby cane burn, after dark.


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2000 Travels July 6

THURSDAY 6 JULY     KUNUNURRA

The days are becoming hotter – today reached 32 degrees.

I spent the morning reading up the information I had, studying maps, and firming up ideas for the Gibb River Road trip. I went over these with John, who was happy enough with my thoughts. He rarely becomes interested in the planning of trips. When pressed to become involved, he has been known to point at random to a place on the map and declare we will go there – regardless of road conditions, scenic attraction or other practicalities. The outcomes of these involvements have not always been great!

We went to the shops. Bought the right mantles for the kero lamp – as opposed to the wrong ones bought last time! We are beginning to accumulate cash money for the Gibb, as it is unlikely there will be many places with credit card facilities.

Tea was chicken and pineapple curry, with rice and corn. Very nice.

After dark, there was a big sugar cane burn nearby. Very spectacular to look at. As they do, it flared up really quickly, but also died down before too long. Much thick, black smoke was generated, along with a burnt sugar smell and bits of fine black ash drifting down. Sugar cane is burnt before harvesting in order to reduce the amount of leaves and green matter, and also to destroy harvesting hazards like snakes and disease bearing rats. As we had seen in Qld, some farmers are now harvesting cane without burning it, with modern machines that spread the unwanted leaves and other organic matter on the ground, as the cane stalks are harvested.

I just hoped that any wildlife taking refuge from the flames, did not come in this direction!

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Sugar cane burn, not far from the caravan park


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2000 Travels July 5

WEDNESDAY 5 JULY     KUNUNURRA

Today was another lovely day.

I did some washing, before breakfast. $3 a load here.

We walked to the shops, after breakfast. John bought himself a new watch – a cheap one!

After lunch, went driving again. Went out the highway to the west for a little way after the dam, then turned north on the unsealed Parry Creek road. Our goal was to go look at the Ivanhoe Crossing, from the western side.

The road took us over lots of little, shallow creek crossings. It was a pleasant drive.

We gained a very different perspective on the Ivanhoe Crossing, from this side. It looked as if it had broken up, somewhat, near this bank. It certainly looked totally impossible to drive through. The current and force of water rushing through was enormous.

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Ivanhoe Crossing from the western side. The Crossing curves around – white line of foam in distance is the far side of it.

John tried a short period of fishing, there – no good.

On the way back, we went again to the park area below the dam wall and watched the strong river flow from there.

Tea was pork strips in ginger, with potato and broccoli – nice.


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2000 Travels July 4

TUESDAY 4 JULY     KUNUNURRA

It was another lovely day, weather-wise.

In the morning, I walked to the shops for the paper. Bought some barramundi fish at the butcher. Checked out the two hairdressing places – both would charge $27 just to do a basic cut on my hair. I decided I might let it grow, for a while!

Then I wrote a letter to friend T.

John went out to look around the industrial establishments, more, and found another place to fix the Truck air-con – a refrigeration person. It did not take all that long and cost under $100!

Had a discussion with John about our movements for the next couple of months. I have been increasingly concerned that, with our somewhat late arrival in these parts, and the wish to be near Perth when the Olympics  are on, there is growing pressure to rush our time in the north west.

John made  phone calls to a couple of caravan parks in Karratha and established that one had adequate TV reception, so he was happy to change plans and book into Karratha for the Olympic period, instead. It was not my first choice of park there – that one told him that their TV signal was poor. At least, they were honest.

I phoned the Fremantle park I’d booked back when we were in Tasmania, and was able to transfer the September booking deposit to our Xmas period booking instead – so that will reduce our costs, then.

So – pressure eased somewhat. I was pleased. That gave us just over two months to get to Karratha. It seems adequate, now, but I am sure will go quickly.

John wanted to watch Wimbledon tennis on TV, as Australians were doing well to date, so it was decided we would stay on here until Sunday, so I went and extended our booking accordingly.

John appeared to have lost his watch! It was the expensive Casio I had bought for him in Jakarta in 1997. He can’t remember exactly when he had it last. He does not know whether he left it somewhere, like the showers. I suspect he might have put it down on top of the newspaper heap in the van – he has a tendency to strew things around. If he did that, it could have been covered up by the next lot of papers. I threw the heap out, yesterday, and the bins have been emptied! Either way, it appeared to be gone.

Tea was the barra, and fries.

There is a sizeable long-grass camp over the road from the caravan park – next to the Showgrounds. This is a rough camp where aboriginals camp, with little shelter – often they have come in from the outlying small communities, unfortunately because they can get alcohol here in town. They get quite quarrelsome, at times – we hear them at night.


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2000 Travels July 3

MONDAY 3 JULY     KUNUNURRA

In the morning, went to the shops. Bought some odds and ends at the supermarket, including filters for my water filtering jug.

We found someone – a Landrover dealer of sorts – who could fix the air-con on Truck. He quoted nearly $300. John was shocked! It did seem a lot. He said he needed to think about it.

The light industrial establishments in this town were rather hard to locate, being kind of scattered around in the housing sections.

After lunch, went to the Post Office to collect the mail. I had letters from three friends – a good batch! There was a phone bill – small, for once, and cheques for $14 in Keno prizes! Haven’t exactly made our fortune at that, yet.

We went for a small drive – out through the Packsaddle Plains irrigation area. This was across the Diversion Dam and then to the south, on the other side of the Ord River. Bought some bananas at a farm gate stall. I was shocked at the amount of wasted produce we saw – mostly water melons. Could not tell why there was so much mangled fruit lying about.

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Fruit wastage. There were lots of broken-open watermelons on the ground between the rows

Tea was sausages, potato, tomato.

After tea, I did some planning of food to take on the Gibb River Road jaunt. We will only have the Chescold fridge, so can’t take frozen meats. I believe the local butcher does cryovac meat packs, so they will keep for a while in the fridge. But mostly, we will need fresh produce that keeps well. Hopefully we will be able to replenish some stocks of fresh items at community stores – I remember being able to buy a chicken to roast at the store at Mt Barnett, in 1993! At the time, I had not expected to be able to buy such items along the Gibb River Road. We will probably only be about 4-5 weeks away from the van.