This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2004 Travels May 11

TUESDAY 11 MAY    THOMAS RIVER TO ESPERANCE   135kms

We decided not to prolong the inevitable, watching the stored power decline and feeling sad at Thomas River, but to pack up and go back to Esperance straight away.

The day had dawned cloudy again, and the forecast rain was falling.

The time here had been wonderful. The diversity of the southern WA vegetation had been so evident, and enjoyable. Hopefully, we will return, one day.

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Cape Arid

On the way back, at Condingup, John bought $15 worth of diesel – just to be on the safe side! At $1.08cpl. We refuelled fully at Esperance – $1.04cpl.

Went back into the Seafront Caravan Park, at $19.80 a night, after discount.

Phoned L to send on any mail, Express.


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2004 Travels May 10

MONDAY 10 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

It was another grey and cloudy day.

Now, the van batteries were not getting enough charge from the solar panels. We had to run Truck for a while, and plug van to Truck, to put in some more charge.

I had been quietly sussing out the CALM group’s set up. They were running a generator to power a few things. I was impressed by how really quiet it was – sitting in the scrub between them and us. I managed to check it out – it was a Honda.

I told John that I was really fed up with this battery angst thing, as soon as we have a run of cloudy days. Power charging should not dictate what we were able to do! I told him he could buy a generator – a quiet one like the CALM people had! This was a real about-face on my part – having always been really anti-generator – and I don’t think he really believed me.

We had a quiet day today, due to regular rain showers. But we did manage a long walk along the beach.

As with much of the southern WA coastline, the diversity and beauty of the plant life was striking.

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Grevillea

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A Hakea?

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Banksia “faces”

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Diversity of flora right by our camp site

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Another hakea?

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Native orchid and what might be a correa

It was becoming obvious that, if this weather continued, we would have to leave this lovely spot and go where there was grid power. Damn.


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2004 Travels May 9

SUNDAY 9 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

Today was much more cloudy, with rough weather forecast – via the radio.

After an early lunch, we did the Lake Boolenup Walk, driving around to its start.

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Lake Boolenup

It was a reasonable walk, with some good views over the coastal heathlands, but was too windy for much bird activity to spot.

While we were in the vicinity, drove the 4WD Tagon Bay Track too. More good views as we went on that.

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The ever-changing Yokinup Bay outlook

Back at camp, John put 10 litres of diesel in Truck, from the small jerrycan.

The expected CALM group arrived, through the day, in small batches. There went our peace and quiet – as well as our most direct, short cut access to the toilet, through an adjacent site!


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2004 Travels May 8

SATURDAY 8 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

Today the sky was rather more cloudy and it was fairly cool.

John went off to fish from down on the beach here. He had a successful time, catching about 11 smallish fish – Tommy Ruffs, a flathead and a trevalley.

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I made pea and ham soup – it was that sort of day!

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Our Thomas River site amongst the bush

Despite its laid-back nature – or maybe because of it – today was an enjoyable one.

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Rain over the bay

In the early evening, there was rain over distant Cape Arid, and a good display of both sheet and fork lightning. The moonrise behind the clouds was very eerie.


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2004 Travels May 7

FRIDAY 7 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

There were some showers through last night, and this morning – short and sharp.

We drove out again, to the other part of the Cape Arid National Park, to the east – Poison Creek and Seal Creek. Parts in these places were quite scenic, but we felt that Thomas River was by far the best place to camp, because of the views and the well set out campground.

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Mt Arid from near Seal Creek

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Large sand dunes near Seal Creek

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John fished for a while at Seal Creek, with no success.

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Seal Creek

Most nights at camp, there had only been one, two or three other sets of campers in the place, so it had been really peaceful.


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2004 Travels May 6

THURSDAY 6 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

Today was a driving day. We set out to go to Israelite Bay, further to the east. Essentially, that was as far east as there was a road, along this part of the coast.

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Map from CALM showing the various parts of Cape Arid NP

One source had it that the name derived from an early settler in the region, who noticed that the aboriginals of the area were circumcised – in line with Biblical instruction.

We took the Tagon Road again, north to the Fisheries Road/Track.

As we were driving up a hill, on the Tagon Road, out from camp, we were startled by a phone call coming in on the mobile phone. I’d turned it on, to see if we could find anywhere that bars indicated a signal, but the call – from John’s daughter S – was a surprise. We parked by the roadside, and John talked to her for a while. Then I checked on my daughter, by text. The reply indicated that things were mostly alright, with her.

It was actually quite good to know that, in an emergency, we would not have to drive far to get a phone signal.

The route east on the Fisheries Road was good gravel for a while, but then deteriorated. It became sandy in parts, but in other places we had to detour around big bog holes. Some sections were badly corrugated. It was slow going, but not tricky driving.

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Mt Ragged Track branched off Fisheries Road – rough!

The distance from Thomas River was 105kms, each way, and it took us about two and a half hours, each way.

A Telegraph Station, on the SA-WA telegraph line, functioned here from 1877 to 1927.

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Telegraph Station ruins

The historic building remains here date from the settlement that was set up around the Telegraph Station. It was never very large, and was supplied by sea – hence the remains of what would have been a substantial jetty.

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Jetty remnants, Israelite Bay

There was not a great deal to see or do at Israelite Bay. There were a lot of messy tracks, mostly going to areas in the bush that had been used by campers.

There were a couple of nondescript old buildings.

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The beach of the bay was covered with heaped up dead sea grass, and so was not very attractive at this time.

The highlights of the place were the old Telegraph Station building, and a few jetty remains, which were quite stark and picturesque, out in the bay.

The original Telegraph Station was built of timber, but was replaced by a significant stone building, in 1896. It was now roofless, and partly fallen down. It would have been a grand building in its time.

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I thought it had been worth the drive, just to see this building.

It was dark by the time we got back to our camp.

I put some curry powder over the salmon, and cooked it in foil, again. Served with rice, it was quite palatable.

Today had been a fairly sunny day, so the solar system was keeping the batteries nicely charged up.


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2004 Travels May 5

WEDNESDAY 5 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

We had a bit of a farewell chat to Rhyllis and John before they left, and to Ranger A. He had roped off Sites 1 and 2, 5 and 6, for a CALM study/work group – paying customers – arriving Sunday. He put their food wagon in Bay 3 – next to us – but there was good separation between it and our site. In the meantime, we had great seclusion, because no one else could camp along this part, which had the best views in the camp area.

We walked the Coastal Walk, to Dolphin Cove, Little Tagon Bay, Tagon Bay. As it was about 10kms return trip, this occupied much of the day. The track left from the campground, and headed broadly westwards.

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Cape Arid from along the Coastal Walk

It was a very attractive walk, behind coastal rocks, through scrub, over headlands, along beaches. There was great variety. We both thoroughly enjoyed the walk.

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Tagon Bay

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Transluscent sea

We spotted a black-faced shag perched on some rocks. There was a dead dolphin on Dolphin Cove beach.

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Tagon Beach and Bay

A fan-tailed cuckoo had taken to visiting our camp, sitting in a nearby bush and whistling. Beautiful.

I marinated some of the salmon in a Thai-style marinade, and then cooked it in foil parcels with some of the marinade. It was much better eating that way. I must remember that as a good way to cook firm fleshed fish.

It was another beautiful full-moon evening.

After dark, I saw an owl (frogmouth?), perched on top of a kangaroo tail plant, just being really still. If the outline of the plant hadn’t looked strange, I wouldn’t have known the bird was there.


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2004 Travels May 4

TUESDAY 4 MAY     THOMAS RIVER

The day was partly cloudy, but the solar panels charged the batteries adequately. This was usually our greatest concern when camping away from grid power.

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Our van was just a white speck, high on the hill above the beach

John wanted to try fishing here, so we drove down the beach access track and then along the beach for a few kms, until he found a spot that suited him.

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Fishing from the beach of Yokinup Bay

It was quite a chilly day, so I sat in Truck and knitted, while he fished.

Then he caught a big salmon. Much rejoicing! I cleaned it there on the beach. There was about three meals worth in it. Well done, John!

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Fish dinners….

We kept a careful eye on the tides, so as to make sure there was some firm sand, still, when it was time to drive back.

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Late afternoon on the beach

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At camp, we met the Ranger. He gave us information about the track east to Israelite Bay, and those to other parts of the Park.

I dusted some of the salmon in seasoned flour and fried it for tea – it was a bit dry. I am no expert fish cook!

The other two lots of campers left today. There was only us and the camp hosts, and they were to leave tomorrow, too.

It was a beautiful evening, with a full moon. There was a big roll of cloud hovering over the bay, visible in the moonlight.