This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels September 11

MONDAY 11 SEPTEMBER     EIGHTY MILE BEACH

I was up early and went for a long walk on the beach, even seeing the sunrise, which was beautiful.

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Sunrise over the beach and dunes

The wind had gotten up during the night, and it was very windy in the morning, but dropped in the afternoon.

I printed the letter for friends that I’d written all about our Kimberley trip. That took over an hour – very fiddly.

John emptied the fuel from the two jerrycans that were on the back of the van, into Truck.

I did some more beadwork. Made a bracelet for R – black and ginger beads, with carnelian chips. Also did one for P – opaque blue beads with old gold antique looking metal highlights.

We went for a walk on the beach and watched the tide come in – from a long way out.

09-11-2000 shell and footprints

The picture tells a story….

The park emptied out a lot today.

I took some more sunset photos. It was not as good as last night’s, but still pretty special.

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Sunset with people on the beach

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Smoke haze obscuring the last of the sunset

John had reheated fried rice leftovers for tea. I had a little tin of tuna. We both had some salads, and some rockmelon – it was lovely – lots of taste.

What a pity we couldn’t have stayed here to watch the Olympics!


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2000 Travels September 10

SUNDAY 10 SEPTEMBER   BROOME TO EIGHTY MILE BEACH   404kms

We were up early and leaving the caravan park at 7.30am. The idea was to reach our destination before the heat of the mid afternoon.

The run south was uneventful, with a slight tail wind.

There was a fruit stall selling local produce, from a nearby horticultural venture, near the Port Smith turn-off. I bought three rock melons, for $3 each, some tomatoes and beans.

The country we travelled through was distinctly boring. Flat, dry, dusty, scrub country, very featureless, long straight stretches of highway – but a good road. I thought this was actually the most boring road we’d yet travelled in Australia!

We had a coffee stop along the way, at a pull in place that appeared extensively used for overnighting.

We had a further break at Sandfire Roadhouse. We reminisced about our lunch stop here, in 1993, in pouring rain, where we paid an extremely exorbitant amount for our lunch. A couple of basic hamburgers and cokes that cost us the equivalent of about three nights’ caravan park fees, back then! It was robbery.

We turned off the highway and drove the 9kms or so, on a reasonable gravel road, to the Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park. It was lunch time when we got there.

Our powered site cost $19.80 for the night.

There was a shop, selling basic supplies, combined with the office and reception area. I bought a tea towel and a magnet.

It was a much bigger caravan park than we’d expected, well established and very pleasant.

After seeing what the place was like, John decided we should stay a second night. We thought it would actually be quite easy to spend weeks here – yet another episode of “we must return, with time”.

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Our site at Eighty Mile Beach

After set up and lunch, we went for a walk on the beach. It was absolutely awesome! There were millions of shells, some quite beautiful, and it was impossible to resist bringing some back to the van.

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Eighty Mile Beach still life

The beach was a massive sandy expanse, going on for as far as we could see in both directions. There was clearly a big tidal range.

Vehicles drive along it – the sand was firm. The experienced ones who obviously spend time here each year have little quad bike things for travelling along the beach.

The fishing is obviously good – could tell that from photos in the office/store! I could see why those who stay for a time want to go much further along the beach, to get away from all those who fish right by the park.

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Late afternoon bird line-up

When we come back here will have to make sure that we have some good fishing gear. It was not worth John trying to fish with the one little rod he still has functioning – not really suitable for the sea.

The afternoon sun was hot. I sat in the shade and started some beadwork. Made an anklet, which looks good, and a bracelet that will go to V for Xmas – light blue glass beads and lapis lazuli chips. I was very pleased with it.

Late in the afternoon, we went down to the beach and watched a wonderful sunset. There was smoke about and it was a bit like “stairway to the sun”.

Tea was fried rice.

This is a great place.

09-09-2000 to em bch


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2000 Travels September 9

SATURDAY 9 SEPTEMBER   MIDDLE LAGOON TO BROOME   187kms

We got packed up and away nice and early.

The trip back to Broome was pretty routine, through the same rather monotonous country we’d twice before travelled.

We did meet quite a bit of traffic coming out to the big funeral at Beagle Bay. All vehicles – except for a couple of tourist ones – were very good at pulling over into the sandy sides and stopping to let us past.

We went back to Roebuck Bay Caravan Park and got a great site, up the “top” end, right on the sea front. It cost $23. The place has continued to empty out – we are definitely on the rump of the tourist season now.

When we arrived at the park, we parked at the front and John went in to arrange the site. Whilst I waited, I was approached by a lady – they had a Trakmaster too, which was on a site just over from where we went.

We unhitched on site, but only did the minimal overnight set up.

Drove to Coles for some grocery type oddments. Restocked the beer and wine supply.

Refuelled Truck, and refilled the jerry can – $1.13cpl.

I went to the bead shop, where I lashed out and spent nearly $100 on materials to make up jewellery. Have Xmas presents for the family in mind – but think it could become quite an addictive hobby. Would make a change from the embroidery, anyway.

We visited the Monsoon Gallery, where there were some rather lovely “Kimberley” works by an artist – Ingrid Windram. I thought her prints were fairly priced too. I offered to buy John one for his coming birthday, but he declined. However, it would be good at some stage, to get some Kimberley related art work for our walls at home.

We went and sampled the Broome Brewery beer at Matso’s. We sat out on their lovely shaded verandah – in a little breeze – with our drinks, playing at being part of “old” Broome. The beer was different, but I wouldn’t buy any more of it! However, I am not a great beer connoisseur.

Later, back at camp, we walked around to have a chat to the other Trakkie people. Their van was the original company’s demo van – very different to ours, and a bit more like a camper inside. They have had a few problems – due to it being one the company learned from, I guess. But they have also had it on some rough tracks, which we always like to hear about. They came around and looked at ours, and said they got some ideas about refitting theirs for future trips.

We sat out and watched our last views of Roebuck Bay, with its changing light.

Tea was soup and sweet corn cobs.

I really want to come back to these parts and spend a lot more time.


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2000 Travels September 8

FRIDAY 8 SEPTEMBER     MIDDLE LAGOON

Weather the same.

Went for a bit of a wander after breakfast, and talked to a man camped at the Lookout site – as the name suggests, further around, looking out to sea. He told us he was here in April, with his son, when Cyclone Rosita went through. They were stuck here for a couple of weeks. There would be a lot worse places to be marooned!

In the late morning, we went back to the reef. It was just so fascinating to wander on it, look at the life there, the patterns made by reef, water, and what grows in the pools that remain at low tide.

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Reef detail

We saw a bailer shell – don’t know the name of the critter that lives in it. A big, bright orange shell with a big, black, snail-like animal inside. It was just crawling around the outside of a little reef pool. We watched it for quite a while – no speed machine.

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Bailer shell and its resident

 

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Another late lunch and a quiet afternoon, in the heat.

K was back from Broome and came down for a chat.

The lady half of the couple that own the place came down too – to apologize in case we’d heard her lose her temper, earlier in the day! We hadn’t, but it must have been pretty spectacular, if she felt the need to come and apologize to us! She was very interesting to talk to. She said she despairs of some of her people, who do not look after their children’s schooling (like K’s mum!), or care for their houses, and the like.

They have certainly done a good job of developing a business, here at Middle Lagoon. She says the only help they’d had to do it, was from ATSIC to build the amenities block. All the rest has been done with their own money. I don’t know if the water bore and power plant has been government funded at all, though.

All credit to them. It seems well run – certainly more organized and efficient than Honeymoon.

We did the usual pre-pack up, in the dark, eventually, due to the social interruptions!

Tea was cobbler and fries.

The time here has gone too fast – I really want to stay much longer. We must come back, next year. It is a gem of a place.


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2000 Travels September 7

THURSDAY 7 SEPTEMBER     MIDDLE LAGOON

It was another hot day, but with a strong breeze, which gave some relief from the heat.

The owls had gone back to their usual tree. Maybe the one by us was too noisy, after all?

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Both frogmouths are in this picture

As the tide was going out, we walked around the beach and out onto the exposed reef. It was surprisingly extensive. There were superb little rock pools and crevasses.

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The reef exposed at low tide. The rock pools in the deeper sections have their own ecosystems

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A little pool still holding water in the exposed reef, with greenery

We saw crabs, iridescent fish, octopus, clams. The latter were quite fearsome looking. I would not want to get a hand stuck in that opening!

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A clam in a reef pool

There were several different types of sea birds too, including a Brahminy kite, assorted plovers and sandpipers, and a beach thick knee.

It was all very engrossing, and the tide was part-way back in before we realized.

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A little oyster stack on the reef

It was hot out there on the reef, of course.

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The tide starting to come back in over the reef.

Lunch was a late one.

John had a sleep during the afternoon, and spent some time using his computer.

I sewed.

K came down. She’d come down in the morning to tell us that there were whales offshore, beyond the reef, but we’d gone off on our explorations. Pity. I think we would have had to have been around on the cliffs to see them.

K had a bar shouldered dove that couldn’t fly and she was planning to take it to a wildlife rescue service in Broome, when they went back this afternoon.

All the young adults and kids of the extended family left, and the place became very quiet. It was also much easier to get a shower – we had been sharing this with the extended family.

Tea was curried sausages and rice.

There was a superb sunset.

09-07-2000 sunset Middle Lagoon


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2000 Travels September 6

WEDNESDAY 6 SEPTEMBER     MIDDLE LAGOON

Another hot, clear day.

The pair of owls had moved to the tree right above Truck. It was a bad day for them to choose to do that, because we planned to go out in it. However, they did not seem disturbed by the noise or movement.

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Pair of frogmouth owls

We set out to explore the top part of the Dampier Peninsula. Had to drive back to the main north/south road, then go north. The driving was hot, dusty, rather rough, and overall, tedious.

We saw no sign of any cattle or grazing activity on the way.

Went first to One Arm Point, a community on the eastern tip of the Peninsula. This was where Honeymoon Beach’s Les’ wife, R, came from.

The community office was closed for a meeting, so we couldn’t pay the required $5 entry fee, for being in the community.

A pinned-up police notice referred to problems with dead people, and police not coming up from Broome to deal with same. The notice said they could now be taken to the Clinic, where there was air-conditioning! I really did not want to explore the implications of that notice, any further!

The notice further advised that there would be a police patrol every three weeks, now that the house at Beagle Bay had been made habitable.

There were actually police there today – a vehicle and three men.

There was a new community store at One Arm Point; the old one was now empty. There was evidence of much money going into the community – a long, sealed airstrip (one of three in a fairly small area, up there). The road in town was being sealed. The community looked clean and tidy. There was a hatchery business, breeding sea horses and abalone, to re-stock the reefs in the area.

The coastal scenery at One Arm Point was wonderful, with lots of little offshore islands, and a really pronounced tidal rip going past the point as the tide began to come in. There were numbers of turtles, putting up their heads to breathe, as they swum past.

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At One Arm Point – lots of little islets

We ate our lunch at the Point, watching the tidal race.

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Low tide at One Arm Point

On the way back out, I suggested taking a side track that looked as if it would go to the sea and give us a different outlook. It turned out to go to the tip! Oops. Reversing, John backed into a tree – more oops! He only touched it lightly – no apparent damage done. But he was cross with me.

Next destination was Kooljamon, at  Cape Leveque. Paid the $10 entry fee to be there. Kooljamon is a low key camping and accommodation resort.

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Coast at Kooljamon

We walked on the lovely beach there. The scenery was superb, with the red pindan cliffs and the blue sea.

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At Cape Leveque

It was a pity that we did not have the time to come and camp up here, too. Still, if we can only do one camp, then we decided that Middle Lagoon was the better of the two. Certainly, the road from the Middle Lagoon turn off to the top of the Peninsula would have been hard on the van – it was rough.

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Beach at Cape Leveque

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Bay at Cape Leveque

On the way back, we detoured to look at Lombadina, another community, on the western side of the Peninsula. This community had a sort of old-time atmosphere. We looked at the church there, another dating from mission days, which was lined with sheets of paperbark.

We drove on a track through sand to get to the beach there. It was long and lovely, but with big waves. I picked up some small trochus shells as we walked along the beach.

Got back to our Middle Lagoon camp at 5pm, after a tiring day’s driving for John.

Tea was soup, and sausages – with bread for John and salad for me.

Early night to bed.


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2000 Travels September 5

TUESDAY 5 SEPTEMBER     MIDDLE LAGOON

Another beautiful day, but each one seemed to be hotter than the previous one!

After breakfast, John went bait hunting, and fishing.

I sat in the shade – and breeze – and sewed. I thought we’d go for a walk later in the day.

After lunch, while I was back sewing again, a local girl came down from the house and struck up a conversation. She was 13; her mother was related by marriage to the people here – families get very extended in these parts! They were out from Broome for a funeral at Beagle Bay, next Saturday. That is when we are supposed to be going back to Broome, so I hope we do not get caught up in traffic to do with that.

The girl – K – goes to school in Broome. She seemed a very pleasant girl, a little shy, well spoken, as are all that we have encountered on the peninsula. She told us that she was scared in the cyclone, last summer, and her cat disappeared. We talked for over an hour. She was intrigued by my sewing. John came back from fishing and entertained her some more. He showed her his trick with an egg that won’t squash if it is held on the ends.

He’d broken the new fishing rod, trying to pull a snag off a rock. Now we are back to only one lightweight rod, again.

We went for a walk, to the north this time, past the cabins, along a small beach, then around a headland, and back. We saw spectacular low cliffs and contrasting colours with the red cliffs and bright aqua sea.

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The coast around from Middle Lagoon bay

K came by again, to say goodnight, just as we were about to eat tea. It was dark by then. I think she must be rather lonely and bored.

Tea was soup, steak, mushrooms.

The family whose land this is, is Japorigine – a term for the descendents of Japanese and aboriginal. This was  not uncommon back in the days when Japanese pearl divers came to Broome. There is such an intriguing mix of ethnicities in Broome! This family seems to be quite enterprising. The tourism operation here has only been set up for about four years, and they are slowly developing it. As we know from being at Honeymoon Beach, in the Kimberley, there can be many difficulties for local people trying to start a camping area from nothing.


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2000 Travels September 4

MONDAY 4 SEPTEMBER     MIDDLE LAGOON

It was a beautiful hot, sunny day.

After breakfast, John went to look for bait and try fishing in the lagoon.

I walked along the beach, right around to the creek.

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Creek mouth area – with old limestone reef formations

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Looking from the creek mouth, back towards the settlement, marked by radio mast

The tidal range here is quite pronounced. At low tide, a reef is well exposed at the lagoon entrance. At high tide, it is covered. It is interesting to watch the changes.

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Reef exposed at low tide

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Reef covered at high tide

John got some oysters and crabs for bait. He lost his little plastic bait catcher in the tide – it was not anchored to anything.

After lunch, we went back down to the beach and fished on the rising tide. John let me use the new rod he bought at Wynyard in Tasmania. The red one that was once mine, that John has used a lot,  had something wrong with the reel mechanism, it seemed.

I think I got one nibble from something!

I enjoyed the effort, but got a bit tired in the legs after a couple of hours of standing. The sun was strong, too.

We returned to the van about 4pm.

There were lots of birds around the place, in general, and around our site, which was lovely. A pair of tawny frogmouths live in a nearby rough-barked gum tree. There are doves – both peaceful and bar-shouldered, and a funny little mob of brown quail. The great bower birds are really amusing with their antics. We saw singing honeyeaters, rainbow bee eaters, zebra and long-tailed finches, mudlarks. So there was a real variety.

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Bower birds

I made soup – green minestrone. John liked it. Tea was some of the soup, and cold roast pork, mashed potato and cob corn again.


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2000 Travels September 3

SUNDAY 3 SEPTEMBER   BROOME TO MIDDLE LAGOON   187kms

It was Fathers Day today, but there was no contact from any of the offspring, despite the time lag between west and east. John was quite hurt.

John washed the van before hitching it up. Given the sort of road we would be going on, I failed to see the point! But it guess it removed any salt from being so near the sea.

Even doing that, we still managed to get away at 8am!

We had to go to Coles first, because a computer magazine that John bought yesterday did not have with it the disc that it was supposed to have. Apparently, I was supposed to have collected this when going through the checkout.

The drive out to Middle Lagoon was the same route we’d already been on. It was hot and rather tedious. Just red pindan dirt and scrub. There was not much traffic, which was good, considering the nature of the road.

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Dampier Peninsula road – note the sand banks at the sides

The van towed well on the sometimes rough road.

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Burnt sections by the Middle Lagoon road – probably a deliberate burn off

Paid our camp fees – $198 for the six nights.

We had quite a bit of bother trying to get the van onto the Gum Tree site that we’d booked. The track curves and slope of the land were against us. It was harder than it should have been because a couple of the local men were trying to direct John, but he wanted me to do it. Eventually they realized that he was angry, and went away!

John said we should have gone to a more remote, unpowered site by the beach, instead of me opting for this powered one. However, I was sure he would utilize the power too!

After setting up, John had a sleep, and I went for a long walk along the beach. I thoroughly enjoyed the exercise.

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Still life – beach variety

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The beach and huts for campers

There were fewer people here than when we visited last week.

Tea was cold roast pork, potato, corn on cob.

09-03-2000 to ml


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2000 Travels September 2

SATURDAY 2 SEPTEMBER     BROOME

In the morning, J tried to phone daughter R but got the answering machine and left a message.

We went to the markets and bought some vegetables. Then did the shopping that didn’t happen yesterday. I wanted to go to the book exchange to stock up a little, but John wanted to go straight back to the van so he could watch the football final on TV.

After that was over, we drove around Broome to see if any of the fuel depots were open. They weren’t, so we bought the more expensive fuel from a servo – $1.10cpl.

We did the usual preliminary pack up.

John tried phoning R again – still no answer. He left another message.

Tea was roast pork – very nice and lean.