This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels July 28

FRIDAY 28 JULY     HONEYMOON BEACH

It was windy and hot again today.

Les was losing some business, as some campers were not prepared to wait around for suitable conditions for his fishing trips. They had allowed themselves two nights here and that was it! I thought they should be pleased that he was being cautious due to the conditions.

We had heard talk, virtually every day since we had been here, of travellers having problems – even damaging their vehicles – on the same rock in the creek ford where we’d gotten stuck! It seemed we may have gotten off lightly, compared to some. It was a strange kind of relief to know that we weren’t the only ones who’d been caught.

After lunch, Les decided to take John and R to Pago to see some art. Obviously men’s business only! Les also decided that I should drive into Kalumburu for him – for fuel for the generator and some “stores”. It seemed irrelevant that I was not all that keen on the idea!

I’d spent much of the morning sitting up at the “office” keeping an eye on four young guys who arrived yesterday and who were freely borrowing tools, welder and so on, from Les’ workshop, to work on their rigs. I just hoped they’d pay him something for this – felt they had some cheek to act like they were entitled to do this.

So, off I went to Kalumburu, in our Truck. I quite enjoyed the drive, after all.

I bought diesel and petrol for Les and the supplies he wanted. I’d made sure he gave me money for same, upfront. I had to drop off letters to his wife and daughter, at his house in town – his place turned out to be one of the better kept ones.

It took me three hours to do the round trip.

Meanwhile, the men had a fantastic time. They didn’t get to the art site because Les decided that he and R needed meat, and they took off after a cow. This was sparked off by sighting a small mob grazing in the scrub. So they chased a poor beast across country, in the Nissan – modern mustering!

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Really off road!

Aboriginal R was in the seat behind John, holding onto a rope that kept John’s front door shut, whilst trying to shoot a rifle out the side window at the cow. The rifle kept being knocked by branches and saplings as Les sped through the scrub after the cow.

The door rope was instigated, apparently, after Les’ wife was catapulted out of the Nissan, when the door flew open,  one day!

It took nine shots to bring the beast down! Several of these did hit it – in the backside and the neck. John said his ears were ringing for hours afterwards!

After the race the cow had through the scrub, and the terror it must have felt, I reckon that was going to be one really tough lot of beef!

Butchering had to then be done, on the spot. Some leafy branches were gathered and the work was done on a bed of them. The men said that Les butchered it well, with no waste. They brought back the hide too, because D had previously said that one day she wanted one to process for tanning. I don’t think she’d envisaged that, here, though.

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Skinned cow

So, it was after dark when the Nissan party got back. D and I were starting to get a bit concerned.

The meat was in the back seat, with the two R’s sitting on it. It was rather a gory scene. It was taken off and hung in a shed by the big one, that looked to be a camping shed as well.

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R in the back with “meat”

The men were as high as kites on the excitement. Les and R came down for a while to relive the events of the afternoon – they were hyper, too!

They’d had two flat tyres during the adventure. The tyres on the Nissan were not the greatest, but he’d earlier boasted that he didn’t get flats! He’d asked J and R how you could tell which vehicle tracks belonged to tourists, then told them tourist tracks are the ones with treads: “blackfellas tyres got no tread”!

In the cross country chase, they’d also gotten a piece of tree wedged in the transmission under the Nissan – Les told them not to worry about the noise – he’d sort it out after they got the cow!

It was all obviously a memorable experience for our guys. They had gone first to the beach at Pago, where they got some more oysters. Black R had attempted to get bait using our casting net, that John had given him. He is more skilful with it than John, but only got one tiny baitfish. They’d also looked at the remains of the Mission at Pago.

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Off to gather oysters at Mission Beach

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R using casting net to get baitfish

In the late afternoon, Les’ wife, daughter and son in law had arrived from town, so Les had more family out here now. They do not have a separate house out here, yet, but have quarters in part of the big shed. There did seem to be a bit of a rotating number of “family” coming and going, from day to day.

We had the oysters for tea, after a battle to open them with a chisel like tool, and hammer. It was easier with the proper knife the group at the fishing hut had, the other day. They are tough critters to get at. We also had some golden trevally, a gift from people camped next to us. It was not as nice as the tuskfish, but was alright.

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The hard way to open oysters!

After both our busy, but diverse, days, it was early to bed.


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2000 Travels July 27

THURSDAY 27 JULY     HONEYMOON BEACH

It was another hot and sunny day. There was not much variation up here, at this time.

It was too hot and windy for Les to take out any fishing parties. But there was much work to do about the place, and John and R pitched in to help.

The two R’s worked on the boat. At one stage I wandered down to the beach to have a look and there was a snake on the sand. Aboriginal R said it was a gwardar – nasty brown snake, to me!

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Snake on beach

White R later effected a “bush” repair to Les’ beaten up 4WD – boring a hole do a dipstick could be put into the fuel tank to measure how much there is. The fuel gauge was just many of the things on the vehicle that did not work.

John went to work making some signs for Les. He found some old paint, and a toothbrush to use, as the place did not seem to run to a paintbrush of any kind. Les’ workshop was something to behold!

John made a notice about day use, and a fee for same. Les had been having issues with tourists coming from the camps at the Mission and McGowans, wandering about, using the facilities (such as they are). He and John decided that a day fee would be fair.

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Sign writing with a toothbrush

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John’s sign on the water tank that feeds the campground

John also painted some Honeymoon signs on old tyres and some board that was lying about – these were to become “signposts”.

I made savoury pikelets for all for lunch – Les, D, the two Richards and us. They did not seem to be quite to the indigenous taste – Les insisted that I produce tomato sauce for him to have with his!

In the late afternoon, we wandered down to the fishing hut and had happy hour with the folks down there. They were leaving tomorrow, to go to the Mitchell Falls. We promised to keep in touch with J and J.

Then it was back up the hill to make tea: fries and tuskfish.


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2000 Travels July 26

WEDNESDAY 26 JULY     HONEYMOON BEACH

In the morning, Les took John’s namesake’s group out fishing.

The camp had been having ongoing plumbing issues, with the water tank that gravity fed the taps and amenities, emptying out during the nights. John and the two R’s worked on trying to fix the other water pipe leaks and weld up a leaking copper pipe. They initially made it worse, but eventually fixed it. John reckons the problems stem from the fact that Les had used whatever he could lay his hands on, and pipes of different diameters are joined up. The water pipe down to the lower fishing hut was apparently hastily cobbled together, when a tourist group demanded that they have water down there. It is that one that springs the leaks at night that drain the tank.

John put some metal pieces on the gaps that were in the toilet doors, to make them a bit more private.

We were beginning to realize that, if we want even vaguely clean amenities, we will mostly have to clean them ourselves. The family women that are up at the big shed house only make a token gesture at doing this, occasionally.

I made us savoury pikelets for lunch.

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Our camp set up at Honeymoon Beach

In the afternoon, I persuaded D to have a go at cutting my hair. It was really annoying me, in the heat. She was rather hesitant, but did a really good job on it.

John phoned his ailing brother and had a chat. This current adventure is exactly what C loves hearing about.

The fishing party had a very successful expedition. They brought back huge black lipped oysters that Les had promised us. John went down to the fishing hut and opened them down there. J had washed them for us – very good of her. We had about 18 of them.

So, for tea, we had an oyster entree, then a Greek salad. Very filling.

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The remains of our feast

After our tea, J and J arrived with plates of oysters Kilpatrick – so we had more! They were very good. J and J were having a break from the other members of their party, who were grating on them. We talked for a while before they went back to the hut.


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2000 Travels July 25

TUESDAY 25 JULY     HONEYMOON BEACH

It was hot and sunny again.

After breakfast, we drove into Kalumburu to get the dratted permit that we were unable to obtain when we passed through on Saturday. I have been conscious that, without it, our presence in these parts is not legal.

We had mentioned to Les that we did not have a permit yet. He did not seem to want to have anything to do with permits – he rubbished them and said that his Kwini group, based in Wyndham, would be getting all the land soon and would change the permit system anyway. He said they would then lease the land back to the Mission and the community – but the top six feet only! I am getting a distinct impression that there is a lot of aboriginal politics in these parts!

Les had also told us that he was amongst the Mission people evacuated to Wyndham during WW2. He seemed to take it almost as a personal affront that the Japanese had bombed the area.

We found our way “into town” alright.

Bought some supplies at the store – which had few windows, steel meshed, and solid, heavy, doors that were kept closed, and which customers had to open to enter. I spent $46 on some food items – predictably expensive, as one would expect, given that supplies come in by barge.

Got our permit from the Town Office.

Bought fuel from the Mission servo – $1.35cpl.

We went to the Tip to dump our rubbish, passing the remains of a crashed wartime plane at the end of the airstrip.

On the way back, out of curiosity decided to try to find the barge landing. With no signposts – I guess the locals know where places are! – we went down a rough track to Longengie Landing. It was a mooring area on the inlet of the King Edward River, but not the barge landing. There were a couple of boats there, and some WW2 relics. It was pretty desolate.

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Longengie Landing on the King Edward River, and brolga

Drove back to camp for lunch. Given the state of the track in the section just before Honeymoon, it is not a drive we would want to do too often.

After lunch, John got involved with helping Les’ mate R, and another guest – also R, fix a water leak that had sprung up outside the amenities block. It took the rest of the afternoon. They finished just on dark.

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Plumbing issues!

When Les came down to inspect progress, he brought a young grandson with him – lovely little boy.

I think John enjoyed the handyman work.

Tea was fries and tuskfish. Very nice.

Les and his mate R came round after tea. They had a cup of tea with us and sat and talked for a while, about measures needed to improve the campground, permit problems and the like. They take their tea sweet, so I had to beg some sugar from D – wife of the white R. I swapped it for a piece of watermelon.

D and R came over and joined in the talk. They are “doing” WA for a year. They have a camper trailer and hail from Sydney. They were on the Lake Argyle cruise at the same time as us – thought she seemed familiar.

Les said he doesn’t know how white people “get away with” changing husbands and wives – “this divorce stuff”. He said that if he didn’t keep his wife, he’d be in serious trouble with her people – it is just not done. He rolled his eyes at the thought of what would happen! Yet indigenous R has had two wives – “both no good”! He didn’t give us any idea of what happened to them though.

It was very pleasant, sitting around socialising, and gaining insight into other ways of being.


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2000 Travels July 24

MONDAY 24 JULY     HONEYMOON BEACH

Another hot, sunny day. Yesterday’s cloud had disappeared.

At 7.45am, John left on his fishing expedition. The boat was a basic “tinny”, with no shade shelter at all. I doubted that it had lifejackets, but didn’t say anything to John about that! Apart from John, there were two other of the men campers, another aboriginal helper – Richard – and Les. I took photos as they puttered off.

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Pushing the boat out…

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And away they go……

I talked for a while with the campers from the shed. Mentioned John’s name in passing, and she said her partner was John, too. Then I said mine was John ***** and she exclaimed that her’s was too! Turned out they had identical names, and the same birthday! The other John is from Yackandandah – even that was an interesting coincidence, as John’s parents originally came from the Beechworth area. We decided they may be cousins.

The other John and his partner J, were going into Kalumburu this afternoon to see if there was fresh produce at the store. They offered to bring me back some supplies if available, so I gave them a general guide about what would be good.

I did the washing and strung myself a clothesline between trees to dry it. Did some sewing. It was quite pleasant sitting in the shade of the tent veranda.

I wandered up to the “residence” and extended our stay. There is a weekly rate of $110 for two, so I negotiated that, with Les’ wife, Ruth, and paid another $70, extra, above the $40 we’d already paid.

The fishing party got back about 3pm. They certainly couldn’t complain about the time they got for their money! John only caught a monkey fish. Les had caught a blue bone and told John he could have half of it. So John did the cleaning of it and gave Les his half.

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The fishing party, and catch

John had a good day, despite the paucity of fish. They had visited a lot of interesting coastline, much further around Napier Broome Bay, only accessible by boat.

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Cleaning the catch. My washing line in the background

John was very tired – and hungry! He ate a whole packet of savoury biscuits – and then was too full for tea! So we just had some fries.

J and J brought me back some tomatoes, a lettuce, pears, a cucumber (rather squishy). Very kind of them. We had a brief session of “John ****** meet John ******”

John was very early to bed.


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2000 Travels July 23

SUNDAY 23 JULY     HONEYMOON BEACH

The water went on again, early in the morning. That was good news! The owner is apparently having problems with water pipes leaking during the night.

It was a sunny, hot day.

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The beach at Honeymoon

In the morning, Les took a fishing group out in his tinny boat. I wandered down to watch the boat going out and got talking to one woman of the two couples who are occupying the campers’ shed, down by the beach. They came from NE Victoria.

John got on the radphone to his daughter R, and also left a message as to our location, for K. I got through to V and had a good talk with her.

The fishing party got back, in the afternoon, with some big, brightly coloured fish identified as a bluebone, or tuskfish, a type of groper. They are nice eating, apparently. The group seemed to have done well for itself with fish caught.

In the afternoon, the tide rose too high for us to go and gather oysters, as we’d thought to do, so we drove the short distance – about 2kms – to Tamarinda, on the other side of the nearby point, to the west. We followed a rough track to an area of rock ledges that faced east. right out on the point.

John tried to fish there, but lost his lure. From a different spot, we walked across the little peninsula to try to reach the end of the Honeymoon beach, where the oyster rocks were, but found our way blocked by mangroves, so gave up.

It was interesting exploring anyway, and we spotted a new bird – a wood sandpiper.

Les seems to try to keep track of where people are going – he asked our intentions as we drove out. This is probably more to make sure that campers do not stray where they shouldn’t, as much as concern for our safety. But it seems like easy country to get a bit lost in, with tracks all over the place, and no decent maps, so maybe he is avoiding hassles like that.

Some cloud built up in the afternoon, and we went for a walk along the beach and took some photos of big boabs against the cloud.

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Big old boab by the beach

Tea was tinned herrings and potato.

Les came to our camp, after tea, and convinced John to go out fishing with him. John agreed, but was nervous about it.

We did not stay up very late.

Although the nights are cooler, they are not as cold as we encountered at our other camps. That would be the influence of being by the sea.


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2000 Travels July 22

SATURDAY 22 JULY   THEDA STATION TO HONEYMOON BEACH   105kms

It was a cold night again.

We were up at 6.30am, and packed and away by 9.30. No speed records there!

Our little freshie friend watched proceedings with great curiosity from the far side of the pool, for a couple of hours. He didn’t disappear until the tent was down.

Turned north again, on the Kalumburu road. North of Theda, the road was very variable. It was quite reasonable in parts, in others just wheel tracks on stony rubble.

There were regular water crossings, most shallow and not very wide at all. Some just a muddy patch on the road.

We drove into one such water crossing, following the tracks of a much larger vehicle that had entered the water on our side of the road. There was a car load of aboriginals approaching the crossing from the other side, so John kept to the one side. The water was very muddy.

We ground to a halt in the middle of what was basically a very large puddle! Even engaging the diff lock didn’t budge us. Eventually John worked out that we were hung up on a large rock. The tracks we’d followed must have gone each side of it, but he’d had a higher clearance!

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Not going anywhere…..

The aboriginal vehicle rocked and scraped, crossing beside us, but got through.

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They stopped to watch but not to help……

We had to winch out, but – as usual – there is never a good big tree around when you need one! However, there was a very large rock that we used.

It was not easy to set up for winching, with truck mired in knee deep water and mud. John hurt the soles of his feet, wading around getting out the needed gear and setting it up. Another tourist vehicle approached from the Kalumburu side, and he helped John with the winch. His wife complained to me about how expensive it had been at the beach camps there. They had gone and camped in the bush instead, and then been told off for being where they shouldn’t be.

The winching out produced a loud scraping noise from under Truck. We hoped it wasn’t a vital area! Our tourist helpers scraped their rear and exhaust, crossing where it was “good”. We wondered what this crossing would be like by the time we came back this way.

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Winching out, using large boulder as anchor

Obviously a big vehicle had churned up the crossing, recently, despite the supposed road closure to vehicles over 7 tonnes.That might have been the truck noise we thought we’d heard a couple of days ago. We were pretty annoyed.

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It looks so innocuous…..

Further on, we encountered some locals in a conventional car, stuck in another crossing. He was a white man, with an aboriginal lady and young child on board. We winched them out. We thought they would have more trouble where we were stuck, and warned them about it.

The lady said there had been a BP fuel road train into Kalumburu, because the town had run out of diesel. He’d been and gone, so our theory seemed confirmed. Pity they couldn’t have barged some fuel in, like they do in the Wet!

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Helping out some locals….

We travelled on, through some picturesque country, with hills, stony rises, creek gorges, and the black rock faces of the Carson Escarpment. The crossing of the larger Carson River was no problem.

The Kalumburu township did not look too bad, but it was all closed up, of course. It looked fairly well kept. There was some litter, but we had seen worse.

Kalumburu began about 1905, when Benedictine monks from New Norcia, near Perth, set up a mission for the aboriginals of the remote Drysdale River area – at the Pago Creek, some 30kms north of the present location. In 1930, the monks were joined by Benedictine nuns.

In 1932, the mission was moved to a site by a pool in the King Edward River, not far from its mouth, where there was permanent water. The mission was reliant on sea transport for goods it could not produce itself, although as air transport began, an airfield was built.

In WW2 the Drysdale air base became a significant part of the war against the Japanese, and Kalumburu was attacked and bombed. Many of the mission people were evacuated to Wyndham for the war. In 1944, the Truscott airfield was built on a peninsula on the other side of the bay, and the Drysdale base became less important.

Until 1951, the settlement was called Drysdale River Mission, then the name changed to Kalumburu. Cattle grazing and some cropping were successful activities, with the place being largely self sufficient. There was an emphasis on education – albeit for limited roles – and improving health.

The 1970’s saw the construction of a road south to meet the Gibb River Road, so land transport to the mission was established, in the Dry season.

In 1981, despite much resistance from the Mission, who did not regard them as capable of running their own affairs, the aboriginals obtained independence from the Mission and after that, Kalumburu was administered as an independent settlement, which now has about 500 people. It has the usual, store, Town Office, school, medical centre. The Mission remained, though, in its own premises, staffed by a few priests and nuns. It runs a church, store, museum, camping ground, and has the only fuel outlet in town.

Those religious staff who remained at the Mission must have been so disappointed to see the decline of the place under self-determination, and the descent of the people into welfare dependency, with increasing alcohol and drug issues, decreasing school attendance and literacy rates.

We had thought to stay in the Mission’s camp ground, but there was not anyone in it, so we decided to go and see what else was on offer. Our Kimberley guide wrote of two camp areas on the coast, run by local indigenous families. We aimed for Honeymoon Beach, the further of the two, but written up as the better one. It was about 26kms north of Kalumburu.

The road went out past the airstrip. Having the Moon’s guidebook was a godsend here, as signposts were non existent. The gravel road soon became more of a track. It was sandy in places and in others rather hard to follow. It was a matter of going the way that looked the most used, and hoping. There was a rudimentary sign at a fork in the track – left went to McGowans Island, straight ahead to Honeymoon – we hoped.

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We hoped we were following the right track….

That last section of the track was quite tricky. New tracks had been formed, there were detours. There were a couple of signs at crucial points, thankfully.

We came to the end of the track, at Honeymoon Beach, and thought it looked quite good.

The Les French family lived is a large tin/steel shed structure, with a large open air veranda section. There were a lot of young children around. An old lady sitting under the veranda structure took our camp fees – $10 per head, per night. We paid cash – the only option – for two nights, and were sent off to find our own place to set up camp, down a slight slope from the shed.

We set up camp in some shade. There were 6 or 8 other lots of campers around, in quite a big area. We were able to connect into a power box – electricity was an unexpected luxury, out here. There were water taps, at intervals, around the camp area. There were two toilets – flushing – and two showers – all unisex – in a partly constructed block. The rest of the block featured a toilet sitting on a cement slab – not walled in yet, and presumably not plumbed or in use! There was a wood heater for the showers.

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The partly built ablutions block

Our set up seemed to take ages. We were tired and hot. John had to change the plug on our electrical lead for it to fit the power point here, which is 10amp not 15.

We could just see the turquoise sea, down the hill. The sound of it was very strong.

I had a very welcome shower and washed my hair which felt full of Kimberley dust!

Just on dusk, we went for a walk along the beach – really pretty. There was a track down from our campground level to the beach, and down there was a large tin building, with campers staying in it.

There were people gathering oysters from rocks, further around from the beach – big ones!

We talked briefly with some of the other campers staying here. There were mixed comments from them about beach fishing here. John may go out on one of the fishing trips that Les French offers, at $40 a trip, which seems a reasonable rate – but John does not really like small boats.

We decided that, overall, this is quite a nice spot, and we would probably stay longer than the two nights we’d paid for, at this stage.

Tea was cold leftover patties from last night. John had baked beans with his.

After dark, the water went off. This did not auger well for the condition of the toilets, by morning!

It was very pleasant to drift off to sleep, lulled by the sound of the sea.

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2000 Travels July 21

FRIDAY 21 JULY     THEDA STATION

There was heavy dew on the Truck and tent this morning.

I was up at 7.30. Washed the clothes I’d soaked overnight – they came out reasonably clean. This camping lifestyle does make clothes very grubby, very quickly.

The little freshie croc watched us for a while, doing its dead pandanus act. It is a pretty good act, too, but the floating upstream against the current is a bit of a give away!

No sign of our dark visitor, which I was tending to think was of the saltwater persuasion.

John fished again. Caught one of the turtles for which the pool is named – which he released, after apologising to it for the intrusion!

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John with turtle

After lunch, drove the 7kms up to the homestead.

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Part of the Turtle Pool track

We chatted with them about our croccy residents – they really want to believe the big one is a freshie, for obvious reasons. They are the locals, and should know best, but a little part of me is not totally convinced.

I bought grapefruit they had for sale from their own garden trees, and a polo shirt for me.

They confirmed we do have to move on tomorrow, because the camp is booked by others.

We’d decided against doing the Theda Bradshaw  art tour because of the cost.

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Bradshaw art

From their phone box, tried to phone Kalumburu to get a permit to travel there, on Saturday, but got no answer from the town office. When we’d enquired about this in Kununurra, had been told that the road was not open then and so there was no point in a permit. It had, of course, since opened.

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Ford on track to camp

Back at camp, did a little packing up.

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Morgan River near our camp

Tea was burghul and rice patties.

The moon was waning now. It rose later and was odd shaped. So the nights were not as bright.

We built up the fire again before going to bed.


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2000 Travels July 20

THURSDAY 20 JULY     THEDA STATION

Another hot day.

John made some radphone calls in relation to his oldest brother, C, who at 80 is not well. There is concern in the family about him.

John then went fishing some more. I walked down the side of the river for some way, and back.

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Turtle Pool on the Morgan River at Theda Station

I noticed a grey “rock” in the pool by camp, where there hadn’t been one before, and spotted a croc – just eyes and nose – watching the camp. This was different behaviour to that of the little pale brown freshie we saw a couple of times yesterday, floating around over the other side, pretending to be a piece of dead pandanus, while it checked us out. It had also done its check, in the same way, this morning. It rather gives itself away, by floating upstream!

The grey watcher sank when he heard John coming back up the river bank, then resurfaced, and John saw him. I fetched my camera, but he went under again and came back up, across the other side, floating around for a while before swimming slowly away, upstream. He was about 3 metres long. I was unsure whether he was a very large freshie or a small saltie. He seemed quite bold, for a freshie, but we had been told there was a big one in the pool.

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Larger, grey coloured crocodile

The question was whether he would come back at night for a closer look!

We had a quiet afternoon, in the heat. We played chess and yahtzee to while away the time.

In the late afternoon, John fished some more.

Tea was pasta with a tub of capsicum and olive sauce – quite nice.

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Camp oven cookery

We made sure we kept a fair sized fire going through the night, getting up a couple of times to put more wood on it. When I was camping on a beach on Melville Island, with some Tiwi people, a decade ago, they kept a large fire burning between their camp and the water, as a croc deterrent.

Occasionally, we heard splashing noises from the pool. The night was cold again.


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2000 Travels July 19

WEDNESDAY 19 JULY     THEDA STATION

Woke to another hot day.

There was some burn off haze not far away. The area around the camp spot has been recently burned, so we have no worries about a fire near us.

We heard a vehicle which sounded like it was coming near us, but it faded. We think the main road might be not too far from here, across the river, so it was probably a truck.

John walked down to nearby rapids and later we both went exploring down that way – it was really pretty. The reflections in the water, in the morning light, are wonderful.

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Rapids at Turtle Pool, on the Morgan River

We saw a little, pale brown coloured, freshie croc in the pool, over the other side from us, just floating on the water surface, looking for all the world like a dried pandanus leaf. Sighted him a couple of times, just hanging about there.

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Freshie croc playing at being a floating pandanus leaf, over by the far bank

There were some cattle around, but they stayed away from the immediate camp area.

John investigated under Truck again, and removed the remainder of the broken part, altogether. He thinks it will be alright to go on without it.

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That part is no good any more!

I made bread, from a packet mix, forming four rolls and cooking them in the camp oven. The tops got a bit dark but otherwise they turned out well, and will be lunch for two days.

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Well done bread rolls!

John went off up the access track, on foot, hunting firewood, and discovered why some of the local timber is called ironwood! Hard to cut into and hard to get axe out of! And heavy.

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Axe stuck in ironwood

He then tried some fishing and caught a black bream.

After lunch, we went for a walk back up the track we’d driven in on, looking at birds. There were lots of them. The bee eaters put on a great show by camp, as does a kingfisher. On the way back from our walk, we startled a large dark coloured snake – we actually startled each other! It disappeared very quickly into a crack in the ground. It looked like a taipan – and that hiding in ground cracks is taipan behaviour. That rather spoiled the enthusiasm for walking!

We lazed about camp during the hottest part of the afternoon.

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Our camp at Turtle Pool

John had his bream for tea, with potato and some bits of vegies. I had potato and vegies.

At dusk we heard the vehicle noise again – going the other way.

John phoned his sister on the radio. He then went fishing for a while.

I sat by the campfire, in the moonlight. It became quite cold.

Tonight’s sleep was rather disturbed by the noises of cattle nearby and croc growls from the river.