This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels May 5

FRIDAY 5 MAY     RUBYVALE

There was still some rain about.

After breakfast, we walked around to friend JJ’s home, on Bedford Hill. When we were here in late ’98, he was living out on Mt Leura property, and we did some digging out there. Since then he had married a lady with a house and mine, in town, so he was now living there. I had received this information from my friend M, at home, (who was his previous wife!)

JJ was home. He still had his little Chihuahua dog. The house was a typical miner’s place, I guess, with stuff everywhere, outside. But it seemed a comfortable place. The were two mines on the place – one open and one shaft.

We sat and chatted for a while, then he was obviously keen to go off and do his daily couple of hours of imbibing! He showed us a large green sapphire that he’d found and his wife had cut – it looked wonderful. Apparently, his old mate, L, had some nice greens for sale. He said that, when the weather improved, he would take us out to Graves Hill – his current main fossicking area. I wasn’t about to hold my breath on either the weather or that undertaking!

JJ told us there was now mining activity out on Mt Leura, with claims staked over it. That was where we’d dug in ’98, and found our chunk of cracked sapphire.

It was good to catch up with JJ again, and find him apparently in good health, and having rather fallen on his feet in terms of his life in general. He’d be into his 70’s now.

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Street sign, Rubyvale

After lunch back at the van, John drove out to the tin shed “hotel” on the Tropic, where JJ drinks, to have a look at the green sapphires L had for sale. That was more out of curiosity than intention to buy. According to John, upon his return, it was a hard-school drinking group out there!

Tea was skinless franks and salad.

The pub over the road was rowdy at night – Friday night celebrations?


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2000 Travels May 4

THURSDAY 4 MAY     RUBYVALE

My son’s birthday today. We slept in, rather, so it was a late start to the day.

It was still cloudy and raining some of the time, so the general greyness probably helped us sleep in.

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Wet caravan park at Rubyvale

After breakfast, I walked up to the newsagent/store  – not far – and ordered The Australian kept for us. We were planning to be her long enough to warrant this.

The people in the next van came back from an outing, before lunch. They had tried to go out to Retreat but had been blocked by a big flood of a creek on the old road.

After lunch, drove out to the Middle Ridge/Russian Hill area to speck about. No joy. The mosquitoes were bad.

We puddled about a bit in a creek bank and washed a few sieves of dirt.

It felt really humid. Not surprising, considering all the rain there had been.

It was nice to be out in the bush, but …….maybe not playing mud puddles in it!

We drove out the Keilambete road to see if the Retreat Creek had flooded that too, but we got as far as the Mt Leura road alright. The road was muddy in places, but passable. The country was really green and the grasses were quite high.

Tea was pasta with the tuna, caper, olive sauce.

I phoned K and left a birthday message.


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2000 Travels May 3

WEDNESDAY 3 MAY   TAMBO TO RUBYVALE   521kms

We got away from Tambo quite early, on another grey day, with a long trip ahead.

Refuelled at Barcaldine – 90cpl.

Had a coffee stop by the road between Blackall and Barcaldine. We’d travelled through cattle grazing country. There were occasional tree lined watercourses but the extensive black soil plains were mostly grasses.

Passed through Blackall – another place to visit and explore another time.

Stopped in Barcaldine for a paper and to check out the Information Centre. We bought a poster showing Qld outback timbers, for John.

Our lunch stop was at Jericho. The Jordan Creek runs near the town and they have made an attractive, abstract, rock sculpture and display that represents the journey of the Israelites to the Promised Land – the Crystal Trumpeteers. It is all rather symbolic and one would not know what it is meant to represent, without the accompanying explanation. But it was most unusual!

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The Crystal Trumpeteers at Jericho

It rained more as we progressed east. The country changed too, away from the black soil plains and through the Drummond Range, east of Alpha. The hills made the drive more interesting.

Just before we reached Anakie, Truck turned over 100,000kms! We pulled over because this was definitely an occasion to be photographed.

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By the Capricorn Highway, where Truck “turned” 100,000.

At Anakie, turned north for Rubyvale and reached there about 4pm, in steady rain. Not what we’d planned! Crossed the Tropic of Capricorn near Sapphire.

The caravan park was very muddy and mushy. Owner – E – said he only had about 3 sites dry enough to put anyone on! So we set up by the road, near the front gate – the other side of the park from where we were in ’98. Apparently, the rain started before Easter and hadn’t stopped since. It was very humid, too.

We booked in for a week, at $10 a night. Set up in full. At least our site had a cement slab.

There were rainbow lorikeets and apostle birds all around us – most entertaining.

E told us that he had bought another venture – The Castle – a bit out of town, which he aims to let as units and backpacker accommodation. He was unable to reach it now, because the road is too wet, but said he would take us out there and show us, when the roads dry out enough. If the rain stops! Obviously, this new venture would have limited access!

Tea was steak and salad.

I was happy to be settled in one place for a week, again.


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2000 Travels 2 May

TUESDAY 2 MAY   CHARLEVILLE TO TAMBO   200kms

It began to rain about 7am. When we got up, the sky was a really dark and threatening grey.

Packing up was relatively easy, without the awning to worry about. The space we needed to back Truck onto the van, and move out, was clear by the time we were ready to go.

Refuelled in Charleville – 83cpl – much better!

It was raining as we left Charleville and for much of the way north to Tambo.

Today’s was only going to be a short leg, because John wanted to stop and have a good look around Tambo. His brother C had spent some time based there, in the 1950’s, with the old PMG (forerunner to Telstra), responsible for line maintenance. John remembered his descriptions of the place and the area as being really outback and primitive, hot, dry and dusty, so he wanted to see it now and tell C about it.

We reached Tambo at lunchtime and got a spot at the Tambo Caravan Park, where we could stay hitched up for the night. It cost $12. The place was actually more like a paddock than a caravan park, but it would do for the night. The lady owner was very friendly and talkative.

After lunch, we went for a walk around the township, in occasional light spits of rain and with heavy grey skies.

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Cattle grid at entry to town of Tambo

The place must have been rather different in the 50’s, because we found Tambo a pleasant little town. I think John felt rather dudded that it bore no resemblance to the picture he had in mind.

Walked the length of the main street, and visited the Tambo Teddies shop – the town’s attempt to tap into this niche market. Tambo Teddies are well known.

I had long wanted to see the Barcoo River, of bush poet fame, so we walked to the outskirts and I took a photo of it. Little and tame it was too but this was close to its origins, so maybe it becomes a bigger stream, further down, before it flows into Cooper Creek.

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We attempted to walk the publicized Coolibah Walk, along the river – basically just a small track through a paddock. However, it was exercise.

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Barcoo River water hole

Back at camp, John phoned C and told him that Tambo was looking quite attractive, these days! We’d bought a cloth badge and a postcard and wrote him a little letter from there. John said to sew the badge on his pyjamas!

I phoned Rubyvale Caravan Park and booked us in there. John really wants to have another go at sapphire fossicking, so the rough plan is to deviate to the east for that, then backtrack to head west.

John phoned Landrover in Rockhampton and booked Truck in for the 100,000kms service, next Monday. He had been hoping to wait until we reach Mt Isa, but it won’t wait that distance. I phoned the Big 4 caravan park there and booked us a unit for Sunday night. We planned to leave the van at Rubyvale and just take Truck to the coast.

Rain set in later in the afternoon. There were several other overnighters in the park by then and they did not seem at all impressed with the weather.

Talked with the park lady about routes from here. I’d been eyeing the direct, unsealed route from here to Alpha, but she advised us to stick to the highway, through Barcaldine. There had been travellers bogged on the black soil country to the NE, last week.

Tea was fried rice.

05-02-2000 to tambo and on

Our travel today – and tomorrow


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2000 Travels 1 May

MONDAY 1 MAY     CHARLEVILLE

Last night was slightly cooler but still very pleasant. The day was rather humid.

This was mostly another lazy day, much of which I spent reading and sewing.

My breakfast entertainment was sitting outside the van, watching proceedings as departing vanners  tried to extricate themselves from where they had been parked! A few had some difficulty and the rather terse owner had to come and lend his assistance.

We went for a short walk, around some of the blocks, looking at the houses – mostly timber – before lunch.

Charleville as a settlement dates from the last half of the 1800’s, servicing the grazing properties of the district. The railway from Brisbane dates from the late 1880’s; today lines branch from here to Quilpie to the west, and south to Cunnamulla.

After lunch, we did a long walk – to some parklands we’d seen on the way into town, and walked around these.

We inspected the Vortex Gun, which was designed to fire shells into clouds to try to make it rain. Several were used here, in 1902, to try to break a drought. It did not work.

There were lots of ducks and geese in the ponds of the gardens, which were quite attractive.

We went past the railway station. Given the age of the railway, and comparative places we’ve seen, I expected the building to be somehow more substantial.

The caravan park became really crowded this afternoon.

Tea was chilli con carne with pasta spirals.

We watched the news on Imparja. Then John took refuge in his computer games. He resolved not to sit up late at the computer, any more, but to have a midnight curfew. We shall see!

It was a very warm night.


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2000 Travels April 30

SUNDAY 30 APRIL     CHARLEVILLE

Woke to a superb “tropical” morning – loved it. I felt really good all day – it was being in the warmth again.

I finished a letter I’d been writing bits of for the last week or so, to cousin K in Tassie. Did a load of washing – no need for driers here.

John slept late.

We lazed about and read for the rest of the morning.

After lunch, went for a walk to the town centre and around it. There were no barred or shuttered windows here! The central business area was fairly substantial, with lots of shops and services, a fairly large supermarket, and a couple of interesting old two storied hotels.

The town is built on the southern side of the Warrego River, which looked small when we walked onto the causeway/bridge, but apparently it can flood, big time. There was also a sort of tributary channel going through the middle of the built up area, which we walked over on large culverts.

I posted my letter and some postcards.

It was some distance from the caravan park to the town centre – probably over a km – so by the time we’d walked there and back and in between done some exploring of the central part, we’d had quite enough exercise.

We commented on how safe we felt walking the streets here, and how pleasant it was, in general. Charleville looked a well kept town.

We decided to spend another day here, just enjoying relaxing again. It was so pleasant, sitting out in the shade, in the lovely warm air – luxuriating in it. I went to the office and was pleased to find we could extend the stay. At least, with this ad hoc method of parking vans, there was no need for reshuffling of sites for us!

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John relaxing in the shade, at Bailey Bar, before the afternoon influx of travellers

There were lots of wattlebirds in the trees, flitting about and making their loud, yacky noises.

I made chow mein for tea.

Another early night was called for – going troppo was tiring! Although, technically, we were not yet in the tropics.

There was a big stir, later in the evening – heard the town fire siren ring, so got up and went out to investigate, after a big cavalcade of fire, ambulance and police vehicles went past the caravan park. A house about a block up was on fire. There was much smoke about.


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2000 Travels April 29

SATURDAY 29 APRIL   BOURKE TO CHARLEVILLE   482kms

The day was hotter – more so than yesterday. The morning though, was balmy and pleasant.

We slept last night with the doona off for most of the night – it had been a long time since we had done that!

Today’s intended destination was Cunnamulla – which would see us over the border and into Qld – three days after leaving Melbourne.

After hitching up, we departed the caravan park and drove to the Information Centre, where we picked up some good materials on parts north.

Then I went to the newsagent for newspapers and postcards. While I was in there, John started a conversation with a nearby clothing shop owner, which soon got onto the difficulties of trying to run a business in the town. The man said he’d had three break ins, in two weeks, and he’d had to reinforce his brick side wall with steel mesh and steel sheets. That was why shops have so few windows, and most have steel mesh shuttering. The man said that the town no longer had a football team as its members just wanted to fight all the time, so no other teams would play them. I guess that all of that commentary reinforced our impressions, given all the damage we’d seen.

We did a limited fresh produce shop at a small supermarket – there was not much choice.

Refuelled Truck – 92cpl.

It was 11am before we left Bourke. Apart from the hamlet of Enngonia, there was little sign of settlement. It all felt rather “outback”.

We had lunch at a roadside stop near the border, and then it was on, into Qld. Again!

The route north of Bourke was still interesting and lush, with much grass and the occasional very fat cattle. Clearly, the area had received quite a lot of rain over summer and autumn. I suspect the country around here is not normally this well watered? It is certainly mostly very flat.

When we reached a servo on the outskirts of Cunnamulla, John decided to keep going to Charleville.

Refuelling in Cunnamulla was not much cheaper than in NSW – 90cpl.

While John was filling Truck, I phoned the caravan park of choice in Charleville and secured us a site.

The last couple of hours of driving was quite hot and I for one was glad when we rounded a sweeping curve and saw the outskirts of Charleville coming up. We’d been running parallel to a railway since Cunnamulla; didn’t see any trains on it, but the crossing signs on the side roads made it appear the route was still used. We crossed that line just before the central part of the town and yes, it definitely was still in use. Good to see!

Booked into the Bailey Bar Caravan Park – $12.60 a night, after discount. We’d decided on the way that, if the park looked alright, we’d stay a couple of nights and look around the town and have a break from driving.

It was a very nice little caravan park. We were parked on good grass. There were plenty of shade trees. It was a little different in that there did not appear to be formally marked out sites in the main section – the owner directed us into the place he wanted us to park. The vans were at all sorts of angles to each other, apparently designed to maximise use of the space – but without crowding them too close together. It was probably a good thing that we did not intend to put on the awning roof – we may have taken up too much space!

The amenities were fairly modern, quite adequate, and clean.

By the later afternoon, there appeared to be few vacancies, so I was glad I’d phoned ahead for a place. Lots of “snowbirders” are heading north it seems.

Another bonus of this pleasant place was that the town water was drinkable – not always the case in more remote places.

The air was lovely and warm and there was a real “tropical” feel. The park’s trees attracted many birds too, so we would have those to watch.

Tea was lamb chops and salad.

We were very tired from the several days of travel, and had an early night, though I managed to write some postcards while John watched a bit of TV. The TV options were not great – basically just our old Central Australian friend Imparja! At least we could watch the news – sort of.

The night was warm, again, so we did not need the doona – sheet was sufficient.

I was happy!

04-29-2000 to charleville


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2000 Travels April 28

FRIDAY 28 APRIL   HAY TO BOURKE   622kms

Refuelled at South Hay, after a reasonably early start. 87cpl.

I posted K’s birthday card and cheque in Hay.

The weather was getting warmer as we went north.

We travelled NE to Goolgowi, then north to Hillston. My road atlas showed that the route north from there, through Cobar to Bourke, was not sealed, but we decided to try that way as being the most direct for where we were aiming. We were pleasantly surprised to find that the newly named Kidman Way was also fairly newly sealed – all the way. It was a very good road, with very little traffic. So much better than battling with truck traffic on the Newell Highway.

We had a lunch stop by the Lachlan River, just north of Hillston.

After the flat Hay Plains, the country north of Hillston became more wooded and interesting to drive through. It was quite green, with much grass and surface water lying about.

We did not stop to explore Cobar, being focussed on getting to Qld. It was obviously a mining town but seemed to be rather languishing, from the little we saw as we drove through and stopped briefly for fuel – 93cpl.

After Cobar we were in mulga scrub country.

In Bourke, checked into the Bourke Caravan Park, taking an ensuite site, for $18. We did a basic set up. The site was quite adequate.

We had not been very impressed by Bourke as we’d driven through to the caravan park. There were numbers of indigenous people wandering about, battered and graffitied  houses, with boarded up window spaces. I was shocked to see how many businesses had bars over their windows.

We drove to get the night’s fish and chip tea, having been advised to do so by the caravan park lady, rather than walk the relatively short distance. Given what we’d seen already, we certainly did not feel like walking for exercise, here.

The fish and chips were alright.

Later in the evening, there were two green frogs on the partition outside the van. I thought they may have come out of the hollow upright poles, and were feeding on insects attracted by the nearby bright light. Very cute – I love frogs!

J phoned K. The tenant had found the tools. K would bundle them up and parcel post them to Rubyvale.

So, here we were at the legendary Bourke. I would have to say it was a let down, because of the obvious issues of the place.

04-28-2000 to bourke