This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels March 28

TUESDAY 28 MARCH     WYNYARD

The day was very pleasant, though there was a build up of cloud later in the day.

After breakfast I walked to the shops, for the paper and to collect our mail. It wasn’t in – the mail had been delayed in Launceston, this morning, due to fog.

John finished his letter and printed off the copies he wanted to send. I read the paper and sewed.

After lunch, John drove to Burnie to get the tyre fixed. It turned out to have been a faulty tube, they thought, rather than a problem in the wheel.

John phoned Landrover in Launceston and booked Truck in for Monday. From his description, they thought the problem was normal wear and tear that would be straightforward to fix.

While he was gone, I walked back to the Post Office again, Still no mail – I had been expecting that the long-overdue photos would have been forwarded to us, from home.

I phoned Aunt J and arranged to visit her again on Thursday afternoon. This meant we had to extend our stay here by a day, so I went and arranged that.

We discussed plans for later in the year. John wants to have good TV so he can watch the Olympic Games and thinks, therefore, that we should plan to be around Perth at that time. That would significantly reduce the time we had to spend in parts further north, which I was annoyed about.

I tried to book at Bussellton for the always problematic Xmas period, but they were already booked out – and they were pretty expensive at that time anyway. So decided to book the same Woodman Point, near Fremantle, park for both September and Xmas. We probably would not be doing much sightseeing while the Games were on, anyway, so there would still be things for us to do, over the Xmas period. We would be able to access Perth city from there – and the park had a pool! Then, once the holiday peak was over, we would head along the south coast for the rest of summer.

Woodman Point wanted big deposits – like half the overall cost!

Tea was soup, cold meatloaf, potato, salads.

I phoned home. They had not gotten round to forwarding the photos, so I asked that the mail now be sent to Legana PO. Phoned former colleague GH and arranged to meet in Devonport for lunch on 13 April.

After dark, thunder and lightning set in, with some rain. There was a loud explosion which we thought might have been a power installation exploding. There also seemed to be a lot of airplane activity into and out of the airport, late at night. Maybe the wind was just blowing this way, so I noticed.

John stayed up late, playing his computer game. I sewed till 11pm, then went to bed.


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2000 Travels March 27

MONDAY 27 MARCH     WYNYARD

Today was cooler, with some showers. It was windy, but not Stanley style windy!

I finished some letters that had been on the go for ages, then cycled to the Post Office to send them. John worked on his missive.

Later in the afternoon, went for a little drive, up Table Cape, just by Wynyard. Like The Nut at Stanley, this is the remains of the core of a volcano. But it is different in having more gradual sides so there is a road up there, and farms on the flat top. Some of the farms have brilliant views.

There were wonderful views from the top of Table Cape, but they were rather hazy.

Back at the van, I cooked a meatloaf for tea – John’s request. It was one with apple and lots of herbs – very nice. I also made pumpkin soup.

While I was cooking, John went fishing from the nearby beach, for a while. No bites.

After tea, I sewed and John played computer games.


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2000 Travels March 26

SUNDAY 26 MARCH     WYNYARD

S and M had phoned yesterday, to ask us to go back to Stanley for a late lunch today, so John could meet their neighbour there, who is a well-regarded wooden guitar maker. They thought John would find him interesting and might learn some techniques from him.

We got diesel in Wynyard – 93cpl.

We reached Stanley about midday. It was a lovely, sunny, warm day there.

S and M were still painting the outside of their cottage when we arrived. There are some really quaint cottages in Stanley – not surprising, given the age of the settlement.

J met the guitar maker and they talked for ages. I sat out in the courtyard of the cottage, in the sun, and sewed. It was very pleasant, sitting there, with the black lab dog and a little Russian Blue cat, who also belonged to a neighbour.

We had a late lunch – BBQ chicken – done in a Weber style portable gas BBQ. It cooked well, but we thought it was too heavy for us to cart around.

It was great to be back in Stanley again, but we had to head back to Wynyard in the late afternoon. We drove 129kms today.

I really like this section of the north coast. Could live here, I think.

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Sunset over the ocean, from the beach by our camp

Tea was zucchini soup, cold lamb, potato, salad.

After tea, I worked on a letter to U and J. John played computer games.

 


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2000 Travels March 25

SATURDAY 25 MARCH      WYNYARD

John slept in somewhat.

I walked to the shops for papers. I was trying to break in the new sandals that I have been carrying around for ages, and they blistered my feet. I thought they must be a size smaller than the previous pair.

John left for bowls at 11.15am.

I read the papers thoroughly, did some sewing, washed my hair, began cooking a roast lamb dinner. It was a lovely, lazy day.

John really enjoyed his bowls and played well. Smithton won. His rink defeated a previously unbeaten rink from Railton’s top side. So the Smithton people were really thrilled to finish their season that way, and John was popular!

He transported a player called G back, who was a woodworker. G gave him a little model tomahawk, made from sassafras. He sells these. He also gave John a turning blank of sassafras that he makes the tomahawks from. John bought a plank of sassafras from him for $20. So, John came back with more timber! It turned out that G was S’s uncle! Tasmania is amazing.

John drove 184kms today.

The roast lamb and veg dinner was yummy.


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2000 Travels March 24

FRIDAY 24 MARCH     WYNYARD

We got a late start this morning – not used to being out late, socializing!

I walked to the shops for the papers. It was about a 3km round walk, so that was my exercise for the day.

We drove into Burnie and shopped for the weekend’s food. I bought a pair of beige cargo pants at K Mart, to replace my worn out ones, and some knit khaki coloured shorts that were on sale, also to replace worn out ones.

Had lunch back at camp,  then went to A and K’s at 2pm. They drove us to cousin J’s place. I’d already met her, husband, and Aunt E, in 1971 when I took mum on a tour of the Tasmanian relatives. Aunt E was now a very sprightly 92.

The men talked men things, whilst we women talked mainly family stuff. J has the family heirloom Bible that I remembered my grandfather showing me, years ago, at Hagley. The ladies were thrilled to find out about the existence of my nephew – another male with the family name! There are not too many of them. In my generation, there were only three, and four in the next. One of K’s sons already has a son. I found it rather amazing that K already has five grandchildren, and he is only about my age!

It was a pleasant visit. K drove us back to his place and we went back to camp.

We bought fish and chips for tea.


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2000 Travels March 23

THURSDAY 23 MARCH   STANLEY TO WYNYARD   68kms

We had an uneventful pack up and move to Wynyard. After, all, it was not very far!

I felt rather sad to be leaving Stanley – it had such a lovely atmosphere.

We found that Wynyard needed better directional signs to the caravan parks! We booked into the Wynyard Caravan Park, for a week. $14 a night and the seventh night free. This caravan park appeared to be a little less upmarket than the other one. However, it had a long beach frontage and pleasant outlook, and it was clean enough, if not very modern. It would do us fine.

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Our site at Wynyard. The sea is at rear as is corner of Table Cape

After setting up, and lunch, John went off to practice bowls at the Wynyard club.

I walked the couple of blocks to the shopping centre – very pleasant walking, with the sea and the Inglis River outlooks. Wynyard is located at the mouth of the Inglis River. I explored the shopping precinct and bought a bottle of wine and some chocolates, for tonight’s outing.

We drove and A and K’s place at 6pm, finding it out on the Old Bass Highway without any problems. They had a rather unique location, on a long, narrow piece of land between the sea and the railway line. They told us there were only a couple of trains a week, so that did not bother them. There is a beach frontage and lots of fairy penguins living in their gardens, which I thought was just wonderful.

Their house was large, spectacular, airy, designed to take advantage of the sea views, and used timber extensively – Tasmanian hardwood and macrocarpa – cypress. There were beautiful stained glass lampshades that A had designed and made. The huge stone fireplace in the lounge was made from stone from Mt Cameron West, out near Marrawah.

S and M were there too and over dinner there was much house and travel talk. We looked over A and K’s new (used) Jayco Westport van. They were obviously really pleased with it, so we did not express any reservations about how it might handle rough roads. They intend to head off on a long trip, sometime next year. There is a station with a reef and surfing area, south of Coral Bay in WA that K once went to with one of his sons on a surfing trip, and he wants to take A there.

It occurred to me that we might be able to meet up in WA in early 2001 and maybe even travel the Canning Stock Route together. That is a trek we found we all wanted to do.

We arranged to go visit my aunt – K’s mother – tomorrow.

After nibbles, tea was tuna, potato,  salad, followed by Xmas pudding, that K had made when he still ran  the family  bakery, until recently.

In all, it was a really pleasant evening.

When we got back to the caravan park, about 12.15am, the gates were locked! That caused us much consternation. A caravan park with a curfew? Moreover, a caravan park that said nothing about such a thing to its guests, at time of check in?

Eventually, we thought to go and get the key to the amenities that we had been given, and try that. It worked – whew! We certainly would not have left Truck outside the park, very distant from the van, in that area!

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2000 Travels March 22

WEDNESDAY 22 MARCH     STANLEY

John had played games on his computer until nearly 5am, so he only had a short sleep before getting up this morning.

We discovered that the same front tyre was flat again! K Mart tyres in Burnie had put in a new tube. John phoned them. They suggested that the rivets inside the steel wheel might be rubbing the tube. Wonder if the rivets have moved under recent stresses? Clearly, it needs checking.

We put the van spare wheel on Truck and set out for a final drive – hoping, yet again, not to have another flat tyre!

Refuelled at Smithton – 95cpl.

Drove to the west, to explore the north west section of coast. From Smithton, took the Montague road, which became a gravel one after that township. But it was in good condition. Went right across to Marrawah, then south along the coast to West Point and south to Nelson Beach, Arthur River and Temma.

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Temma

That last section of coast was truly windswept – the scrub and low trees all leaned at an angle, away from the west!

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Not hard to tell the direction of the prevailing winds!

Temma was just the usual collection of mostly seasonal shacks on a small bay. One of the more substantial houses was elevated, and had a huge store of cut firewood under it.

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The entire under-house area was filled with firewood

We retraced the way we’d come, sidetracking and stopping off at Couta Rocks. Arthur Beach and the mouth of the Arthur River. I remembered that my father came over to Tasmania, on several occasions, to go to the big annual Arthur River fishing competition with Uncle T and cousin B, so I’d long had some curiosity about the place.

Around the mouth of the Arthur River there were lots of old logs littering the beaches – a legacy of the logging days, and subsequent floods.

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Log debris at the mouth of the Arthur River

It was a very windy day and the seas over on this coast were really rough.

We found this coastal section of the Arthur-Pieman Protected Area fairly bleak – rather dreary coastal heathland. There were several small fisherman shack settlements, like Temma.

However, the country between Marrawah and Smithton was pretty – mostly dairying country, with thick stands of blackwoods in the gullies.

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Dairy cattle on the lush pastures of the north west

On the way back into Stanley, we detoured towards “Highfield”, to the Stanley Lookout, which gave excellent views over the town, The Nut and the general surrounds. Continued on that way and came back into town the back way.

“Highfield House” like “Woolnorth” to the northwest, is a legacy of the time, from the 1820’s, when the Van Diemans Land Agricultural Company owned all this part of the state. Highfield was built in the early 1830’s and is a substantial place, now a Heritage site, whereas Woolnorth is still VDL Company owned. The Company certainly managed to acquire some excellent farming land.

We drove 268kms today.

Packed up the awning and the outside furniture.

Tea was curried zucchini soup, which John really liked. Then lamb chops and vegies.

It was still very windy. Heavy rain set in about 9.30pm.


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2000 Travels March 21

TUESDAY 21 MARCH     STANLEY

The day was quite windy, with a mix of sun and clouds. The weather seemed definitely to have changed to autumn whilst we had been here.

We intended to have a quiet camp day, after the long one yesterday.

I walked up to the shops to get the paper.

A local man came round to see if John would sub for pennant bowls on Saturday, for Smithton. The game is at Railton – quite some distance. So John immediately began to look forward to that.

In view of travels to come this week, John decided to drive to Burnie to get the tyre/tube repaired, and also a wheel alignment done, because he had been noticing an unstable sensation in the steering, recently. My theory was that the attempt to drive the Granville Harbour Track had damaged something, but I wasn’t about to share that insight!

While John was gone, I walked up to the genealogy centre here, to try to do some research on mum’s family. Their microfiche broke yesterday! So I had to scrub that idea. I walked around the town for a while.

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Stanley main street. The bay is behind

I went back to the van and made soup – curried zucchini – and cut up the vegies for tonight’s stir fry. Then I had a thought that P and K’s first wedding anniversary was coming up, so I walked back to the shops and bought and sent a card to them.

John returned from Burnie with some new clothes – there had been a K Mart sale and he was filling in time while the work was done. He had jeans, a windcheater, socks and jocks.

He had needed to buy a new tube. Unfortunately, the wheel alignment hadn’t fixed the steering issue, which still feels wrong at speed. So at some stage we will need to go to the nearest Landrover dealer – Launceston – for work on it. Fortunately, most of the driving we are doing at the moment is not at speed.

Tea was soup, a hokkien noodle and veg stir fry, mango.

We watched TV for a while. I wrote postcards and John worked on his next big letter.

It was even more windy at night.


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2000 Travels March 20

MONDAY 20 MARCH     STANLEY

The morning was a mix of cloud and sunshine.

We left camp about 9.45am, to travel the Western Explorer route, south to Corinna.

The first part of the way took us over the same roads we’d travelled yesterday, through Irishtown and on down to the Kanunnah Bridge over the Arthur River. From here, we kept heading south west, to a T intersection, not long after we’d crossed the Frankland River, where we turned south east. The track ahead went through to Couta Rocks, on the coast.

After some 15kms on the Western Explorer route,  we took a somewhat rough track to our left, for a short way, into the former mining settlement of Balfour. Tin and copper were mined here, for a few years, in the early 1900’s. In 1911, a tramway was built from here across to Temma, on the coast, to take the ore to ships. But Temma was not really a safe place for ships, and the mine was abandoned shortly after anyway, so Temma never became a port. The very rough 4WD Balfour Track goes between Balfour and the coast.

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Relics of mining at Balfour

We had a little explore and found some abandoned bits of machinery and a lot of tracks, which we did not have time to explore.

Stopped at the Donaldson River crossing to eat lunch. This was in a rather rare forested section. Much of the way had been over button grass plains. These grow where the soil is almost non existent, having been scoured and eroded away in the ice age times. Where the soils are deeper and richer, there are forests.

Stopped several kms further on, parked Truck and walked the Longback Track to the top of a ridge, which gave us great sweeping views all round. I went close to walking on a small snake and back stepped very quickly, while it wriggled away. Today’s snake!

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The Western Explorer traverses varied country

Continued on to Corinna, reaching there at 3.15pm. The place consisted of a few rustic cottages, and the barge, by the very wide Pieman River. Not far from Corinna we stopped so that I could take a photo of a particularly large myrtle tree.

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Really big myrtle tree

This trip down to Corinna was superb, through the mix of button grass plains, and myrtle dominated forests. There were some big ranges in the distance. The road was fine – where it was steep, or particularly bendy, it had been sealed.

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The Western Explorer crosses some difficult country

On a couple of our stops we saw ground parrots – a bird new to us.

It had been such a varied and enjoyable drive that we decided to go back the same way, rather than the planned route on the bitumen via Savage River and Waratah.

Just out of Corinna, found we had a tyre going down. It seemed to be the tube again, like the last one. We changed it more quickly this time. Hoped we didn’t get another flat on this remote road – still hadn’t done the smart thing and brought the second spare. It is a hassle to get it up on the roof rack. But we didn’t let any worry spoil the journey.

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Changing flat tyre near Corinna

We actually saw several lots of traffic, all going the other way – more than we would have expected, given the lateness of the day.

We got back to Stanley at 7pm, having driven 326kms.

It was so late that we bought fish and chips for tea.

While walking in the forest on one of our stops, I’d found some yellow and red myrtle leaves on the ground, near a big tree. I thought then that we might be lucky and get to see the spectacular leaf colour change before we leave here in mid-April.

It was a great day!


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2000 Travels March 19

SUNDAY 19 MARCH     STANLEY

I encountered S, briefly, on her morning walk. Saw K and A and got their address details for our visit there on Thursday.

Socializing done, packed lunch, then set out driving. Went south-ish, through Irishtown, Edith Creek, the Trowutta area, the Tayatea  road to the Milkshake Hills Reserve. What a great name

Stopped at the Tayatea Bridge, over the Arthur River to admire the river and surrounding forest.

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Arthur River at Tayatea Bridge

Lunched at the Milkshake Hills Reserve, in a very pretty forest-surrounded picnic area. John encountered a large tiger snake by the path to the toilet. It slithered off and hid in a nearby tree stump.

We took a walking track through the forest, then up to the top of one of the Milkshake Hills – these are buttongrass country, rather than forest. It was a very pleasant walk with interesting changes in vegetation as we went.

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Walking track in the Milkshake Hills Reserve

When we returned from the walk, the snake was back in position, coiled up in the sun again. It quickly slithered back into its stump home, though no doubt cursing us in snake-talk.

Drove on, to the Julius River Reserve and did the nature walk circuit there. Part way into it, John realized he’d left the keys in Truck, so we completed the rest of the circuit very quickly. There was lots of myrtle, silver wattle and sassafras trees along that walk.

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Silver wattle trees

Next destination was Lake Chisholm, and we walked in to that – another pretty walk in big forests.

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Lake Chisholm

The reserves we visited today are not National Parks, but are managed by Tasmanian Forestry, which means they are areas which may have been – or will be – logged.

Drove on and admired the outlook from Sumac Lookout, on the Sumac Road, then stopped again at the Kanunnah Bridge over the Arthur River – again. This was further downstream from the bridge we’d stopped at, this morning.

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Arthur River at Kanunnah Bridge

We travelled through the Roger River area and linked up with the way we’d come, thus completing a circuit that took us through some of the Arthur River valley.

Bought some produce from a roadside stall – tomatoes and raspberry and strawberry jams.

Drove 190kms today. It was a very enjoyable day with a good mix of driving and exercise.

Tea was cold pork, potato and fresh tomato – yum.