Pungalina | This Adventurous Age

February 3, 2020
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2005 Travels August 31

WEDNESDAY 31 AUGUST PUNGALINA

Was an early start today, because we took our guests down the Calvert and as far as the Stinking Lagoons. I packed a picnic sandwich lunch to go.

We had set up a makeshift seat in the back of our Truck, where – in travel mode – we only have three seats. but with some extra padding put on top of the tents we carry in the seat space, it was quite adequate.

Stopped at Mystery Shovel Water Hole, briefly, to stretch legs and admire its beauty.

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Had a second stop – again brief – at the Calvert Crossing, then it was the slow and bumpy stretch to the lower river.

Went first to the Stinking Lagoons, where we walked around for a bit, while John described the trip done with the Japanese to the coast itself. There were some horses at the far end of the big lagoon – presumably station horses from Seven Emu, turned out.

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Drove to the end of the cleared track at the lower Calvert and looked at the river there, from the vantage points on top of the high cliff-like banks.

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Then back tracked to the fishing access point on the river, where John and F attempted to catch something – anything, with no luck. It looked like the tide was out at this time.

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Fishing – and keeping watch for crocodiles!

The drive back to camp seemed a long one to me – a sign that I had become very familiar with that route, I think.

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Back at Mystery Shovel Water Hole

When we got back to camp, found that a ding – probably Lachy – had torn through the fly mesh door of F’s new tent, which they had left zipped up. F’s clothes, which had been folded up in the tent, were strewn around the clearing – with the exception of John’s long trousers. He had lent F these, to keep off insects at night. These were still neatly folded on their camp bed! We decided that was a ding sign that John “belongs” here and F did not! Male territoriality…….

We felt really bad that the tent had been damaged. But I was just grateful that there had not been more damage. It was not a great ending to what had otherwise been a very enjoyable day.

January 30, 2020
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2005 Travels August 30

TUESDAY 30 AUGUST PUNGALINA

We did not rush around to get too early a start. John still had to do his garden watering, and V and F went with him to be part of that.

Took V and F driving, out to the Dragons Breath Cave – the nearest one.

On the way there we saw a couple of euros in the bush. As with much of the wild life on the place, they were more curious about us than scared.

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John took V and F down the cave. I think they were a bit apprehensive, especially when they saw the narrow opening they had to go down, but trusted that John knew what he was doing.

Quite a narrow opening to the cave!

John took the camera down with him. Getting decent photos in the caves was difficult, because they were always very warm and humid, and condensation soon formed on the camera lens.

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While they were exploring the cave, I pottered about up top, exploring the area around the cave, with its fossilized limestone outcrops and stromatolites.

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Big cave system under here

Stromatolites

We then drove on to Croc Hole, on Karns Creek, where John took our guests out in the boat there, for the experience of puttering down the long water hole there.

Resize of 08-30-2005 22 Croc Hole

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They saw a couple of nankeen night herons perched on a dead tree – were able to get the boat surprisingly close to them.

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I waited back at the big fig tree that was such a feature there.

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Then it was back to camp for lunch.

We finished up the day with a drive out to the wetlands, to see Lake Crocodyllus, continuing on around the circuit track past Jabiru Billabong. By this time, V and F were totally disoriented – the network of tracks all seemed similar to them. I could remember feeling like that the first time we visited here, in 2003!

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Again, we did happy hour in the clearing, then I cooked tea at the camp and brought it back to the clearing.

January 28, 2020
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2005 Travels August 27

SATURDAY 27 AUGUST PUNGALINA

We took a day off today, to have a rest after the recent burst of activity.

When John came back from the daily watering up at the house, he reported that O had begun work on the new house foundations. This involved clearing the surface of a large area to the back and one side of the existing dwelling, then building a very long retaining wall – some ninety metres long – just at the edge where the drop down to the river started. Quite a massive task and one that would take some time. He was expecting a young couple he knew to come in and camp near the house to help him with the building works, in October.

Site for the new house

The house, when built, would have a brilliant view across the river. It would be a high set style, allowing for cooling breezes under it, storage, and also raising it (hopefully) well above any flood level.

The house would have this view over the Calvert valley

John had slung a net in the creek and came back with what we thought was a cherabin – a sort of fresh water prawn. There was only one, so we let it go again.

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We were expecting friends V and F to stay, arriving Monday. They had just finished the season’s work at Adels Grove. So John tidied up the area beyond our van where we had previously put M’s tent, a couple of months ago. We were looking forward to having some friends here, and showing them the place. They could be future workers here too. A couple of months ago, O was talking of maybe setting up a rough camp area down at the Gulf Track end of the old track to Borroloola. If he were to do so, V and F would be ideal people to run that for a season.

When we first came here, we had hoped that my son and his family would be able to come and visit. The plan was that they would fly in to Mt Isa, hire a 4WD and drive here, via Adels and Kingfisher Camp. We had brought our big tent all this way, in case. Anyway, it had not eventuated. I think son’s wife had found the prospect of being so remote, with a three year old, too daunting. Pity.

It was lovely to have a peaceful happy hour again, in our clearing, with time to relax and watch the sunset.

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January 26, 2020
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2005 Travels August 25

THURSDAY 25 APRIL PUNGALINA

John worked 4am to 10pm. I worked 8am to 10pm.

O and John organized breakfast for the guests – cereals and toast – and I cleaned up after I got up.

The fishing party left for the coast before 5am – well before dawn in these parts.

O was to drive the little Daihatsu, with John following, with the fishermen in the Troopy. They would do this until reaching just beyond the Stinking Lagoons. Then all would transfer to the Daihatsu. O believed that the light weight of this would enable it to traverse the salt flats and potentially salt marsh areas, and thus enable a group to reach the coast for the first time, here. He had surveyed the area in the Jabiru plane, and thought he’d seen a way they might be able to get through.

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Stinking Lagoons

O had fastened two old car seats into the back tray, to enable such transport for four.

Modified Daihatsu

John had difficulty following O in the pre-dawn darkness. O was kicking up dust, which combined with the dew to coat the Troopy windscreen with mud. O was also going faster than John was really comfortable with – knowing the track better.

At one stage, near the Lagoons, where the track was very ill defined, John hit a big pig wallow hole that he did not see before hand. The guests thought it was all one big joke. Just part of the experience!

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Feral pig damage around the Stinking Lagoons

Lower Calvert River

The plan went well and they did reach the sandy shore of the Gulf coast, just west of the Calvert mouth. It was about 10am by then, so they only had a few hours of fishing.

The guests caught lots of fish. Some were returned to the water, after being photographed. Some were kept for food supplies for camp and house. I had “ordered” a thread fin salmon, if one was to be had – and it was. I consider them really excellent eating.

O said they had to pack up at 3pm, to get back to camp between 7 and 8pm. He fired the pistol that he always carried in areas where there might be crocs, as a signal that it was time to start packing up. John made a joke of it and told the boys that they must hurry up and pack, otherwise O would shoot them!

It was decided that O would drive the Troopy back from the Lagoons, because there were some sights he wanted to show the guests on the way. John would drive the Daihatsu back. Unfortunately John had not gone far – O had already departed – when the brakes on the vehicle gave up. Nothing there. John continued on, worrying mostly about how he was going to manage the occasional down slope, and especially the long narrow ridge down to the Calvert crossing.

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Calvert River at the crossing

He managed reasonably well, using the gears alone, until the Calvert ridge. He managed that by putting the vehicle into reverse gear and rolling down with the clutch in. When the speed got too much, he would let the clutch out and thus very abruptly slow the vehicle. This probably did not do the gearbox and clutch much good though! But he got down the ridge unscathed.

A couple of times where there were sharper bends that he miscalculated, he ran off the track and into the bush, scraped trees to slow down.

It was a most uncomfortable trip for John because there was no upholstery on the driver’s seat – it had all been chewed off by the dings. His back was very sore by the time he got back to camp. The vibrations had been such that his heavy-duty plastic fishing tackle box was broken!

Not a comfortable ride….

John was back before the guests. I had been anxiously watching out for lights once it got dark and was most relieved when John appeared about 8pm.

O was not too far behind. He had taken various side tracks to show things, so had gotten behind John almost from the start. He asked John why the hell he’d gone bush bashing in a couple of places, and was quite surprised when John explained why. I think he may have quietly admired the feat of doing that track without brakes!

The group cleaned up and had a very late dinner. I had cooked a whole barra – Asian style – with chippies and salads. Dessert was pannacotta and berry sauce.

The fishermen were on a real high. They had never had an experience like today’s. O and John were pretty happy too, despite sore back.

Poor O had to drive out, after a few hours’ sleep, to get to Redbank Mine to pick up the supplies from the truck.

I was quite envious of John, having actually gotten to the coast!

January 20, 2020
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2005 Travels August 16

TUESDAY 16 AUGUST PUNGALINA

Day off for us. John went up to the house to do the vegie garden watering, as usual, though.

O came to inspect the camp. He still seemed rather disgruntled, but could not really find fault with how the camp was looking. About all he could come up with was that, after all the recent work, the generator needed a service. So he changed the oil and air filter on that.

We went driving back out to Bathtub Springs, for another look at it – so pretty.

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I was fascinated by the underwater gardens growing at the edge of the river, where the water was clear and light penetrated.

Under water garden. Dry bank at extreme right side of photo

Spent some time watching a grey fantail flitting about in the bush and trees, but could not get a really good photo of it. The bird was very curious about us.

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Out on that part of the property, there were places where there were lots of termite mounds, quite close together. Then there would be some distance where there were none. We figured it had to do with soil structure, moisture retention and the like.

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The progress of the seasons was obvious in that the grasses that had been so tall and green, back in May, when we were clearing the tracks out there, were now brown and lying more flat. I could begin to see how late Dry Season fires could be such a problem, once they got going.

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There were young saplings re-growing on parts of the track. They would be fodder for next year’s early season slashing.

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Unusual leopardwood tree growth – with bark free dead branch

January 18, 2020
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2005 Travels August 14

SUNDAY 14 AUGUST PUNGALINA

Day off. We enjoyed a decent sleep in.

Pottered about at camp, read my paper.

After an early lunch, we drove out to the wetlands, and took out the canoe onto the lake. Tried as best we could to do a bird count, but mostly just enjoyed the paddle. Went right across the far side and in amongst some of the dead trees that clustered quite thickly in the water there. It felt rather surreal.

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Back to our camp, where I read away the rest of the day. John spent time on the lap top.

January 12, 2020
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2005 Travels August 8

MONDAY 8 AUGUST PUNGALINA

A day off, after working 15 days straight! And most of them had been long bloody days, too. Right now I was feeling thankful that the camp was not more heavily booked.

The camping party left.

We needed to go for a drive, just to get away from the camp environs.

Back in July, O had found time to slash the track that went in a circuit, around by Kirkby Waters, on to Bathtub Springs, and thence back to the main track near Mystery Shovel Waterhole. It had been the last track area to dry out enough to take the tractor and we had not had time to explore it yet. So that was today’s destination.

The main track to the north – to the Calvert crossing – was getting pretty well defined by now, with regular guest groups being taken to various sites along it. Of course, the further away from the house and camp it got, the less well defined it became. It was still no speed route – the surface was too rough and there were too many twists and turns for that.

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Our first stop was where the recent caving party had done some exploring and found some new caves. We had no intention of exploring down same, but just wanted to look at the opening and the limestone ridge around it.

When you knew what to look for, the fig trees that could be a real marker for caves, were obvious. They grew in such locations because their roots were able to get right down into the ground and find sufficient moisture way down, to sustain them.

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Cave marker tree stands out from the rest of the vegetation

There were also stromatolites in the area.

As we walked up the hill to the cave opening, caught sight of a very large python disappearing fast, down into the cave. Had we’d had any thoughts of exploring down there, that would have been enough to squash same! Then, as I was wandering about looking at things, spotted a big tree snake up in a tree.

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Cave entrance amongst stromatolites

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Pays to look where you are walking, on this place

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Cave up a slight rise from the track

As we followed the rough and slow track towards Bathtub Springs, came across a few of the feral cattle that were still on the place. They did not seem at all concerned by us trundling slowly along, and just kept on grazing near the track.

It was easy to see that this track had been damp until recently, by the number of bottlebrush trees there were around – and in profuse flower.

Melaleuca viridiflora?

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The Bathtub Springs area was really pretty. The springs there had created a sort of creek/small swamp, fringed by huge paperbarks.

Bathtub Springs

There were wonderful reflections in the waters, too.

O had a boat moored here for the season. It was the most recently bought one, considered rather tricky, because of an accident involving its previous owner. So, John knew to be careful operating it.

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The boat at Bathtub Springs

He took us out on the Calvert River. Just downstream from where the boat was moored, the river narrowed to one of its choke points -shallows and jammed trees – but we were able to motor upstream for several kms on a wide, slow, stretch of the river.

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It was scenic, peaceful, pleasant, really enjoyable.

On one of the wide reaches of the long water hole, there was just enough breeze to ripple the surface of the water, which created the illusion of stars dancing on the water.

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The river was lined by pandanus and big old paperbarks.

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The far bank was, for most of the length of the water hole, a low, red rock bluff. The colour contrasts were great. We could see where higher flood levels had caused damage to some of the vegetation at the sides of the river.

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After spending some time on the river, we continued along the circuit track, to where it joined the main one to the coast, not far from Mystery Shovel.

Along there, we deviated to look at another creek and water hole, and saw a huge black feral pig wallowing around in the water, with a white egret on its back, doing whatever egrets do. This was the first feral pig we’d seen on the property.

Feral pig, with egret

After that, it was the trundle back to camp, via the house, where we reported back to A and W, so they would know we had returned safely from our adventuring.

This was a wonderful day off, after such a busy period.

January 4, 2020
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2005 Travels July 29

FRIDAY 29 JULY PUNGALINA

We worked 6.30am to 10pm.

O arrived back during the morning with the supplies from the truck, so I had that to sort and put away.

It was also mail plane morning. Suspected it would be some time before I would get to read last weekend’s Australian, which came on the plane, as usual.

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We were expecting a couple in today, coming in their own plane, for five nights. They had visited here last year, too, so this was a return visit. I finalized a tent for them.

Did the men’s breakfast. Like yesterday, they did not require a cooked component, so it was relatively easy. I sent them off with biscuits and cake for smoko.

Marinated chunks of roasting beef for tonight.

The expected couple arrived, were met by John and brought to camp, settled in, and joined the survey men for lunch.

Lunch prep involved me making roti breads, boiling and mashing eggs to make a curried egg spread, mashing tuna for a spread, mashing cream cheese, chopped ham and pineapple together for a spread. I served the roti with these and the cannellini bean spread made yesterday. Made a green salad to go with this. I warmed up leftover Apple Danish and served slices of that, with the ginger cake made yesterday, and fruit, as afters.

I was hoping that the cakes I’d made fresh, together with a reserve of sultana cake, and zucchini cake, in the freezer, would see me through this period.

We sat down with the couple and worked out their program for their time here. They had some very clear ideas, due to their previous time here. She had some health issues and had brought her own supply of water, which I had to keep chilled and separate just for her. I felt some sympathy for her – not easy to be touring remote places, with unknown water quality, with such issues.

They would just relax at camp for the rest of today. Tomorrow they would be taken to the wetlands, Fern Springs and that area, with lunch out. Sunday would be down to Bathtub Springs, Bluff Waterhole and those parts, again with lunch out. I did like lunch out days – much easier! Monday they would explore some caves, Bubbling Sands and Croc Hole, have lunch in and nibbles on the Escarpment for the sunset. Tuesday would be either the Lower Calvert or Hot Dog Creek – lunch out again. O was going to be busy over that period, being the guide!

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Preparing the evening meal kept me busy through the afternoon.

The nibbles I prepared for tonight were salted peanuts, eggplant, semi dried tomatoes, olives, salami rollups.

Dinner – at 7pm – was the usual roast beef meal with all the trimmings, followed by an Apricot Cream dessert. Coffee was served with Pocos.

The survey men headed off to bed early, but now the couple was here, O – and ourselves – must stick around till the couple was ready for bed. The man was content to sit round the fire and talk – for ages. Talkative type. I hoped he might be more tired on future nights and turn in earlier!

December 27, 2019
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2005 Travels July 23

SATURDAY 23 JULY PUNGALINA

We took our day off today, because tomorrow I had to do a meal for camping guests.

They were a party of six, again known somehow to O, from his childhood home area in northern Victoria. He had put them in a site not often used – beside the Safari Camp Creek, but on the opposite side. We hadn’t noticed when they came in and hadn’t been told at the time, but I thought it must have been about last Sunday. They had been doing their own exploring about the place, although O had taken them out and about a couple of times.

We decided to try to find Ringo’s Song, out to the east. This spot was marked on the mud map of the place, and O had talked about it. He had indicated that the track out there should be dry enough, now, to travel on, but he had not had time, this year, to clear it of any debris.

I was intrigued by the name for the place. Apparently, it derived from when there was a mustering group camped out there – when the feral cattle were mustered, after the purchase of the place. The mustering crew were from the neighbouring Seven Emu Station. One of the stockmen – Ringo – had a guitar, and did some singing around the evening campfires. Quite a poetic name, I thought, and I was keen to go see if the place lived up to it.

Took the driveway track, then the one towards the wetlands, for a little way, then branched off this to the north.

We had to proceed even more carefully than was usual on the property tracks, because the track was hard to discern.

Track towards Ringos Song

In some places, we had to clear light fallen timber from the track.

It was worth the effort – there were a couple of really pretty water hole/creek areas. I thought the first one of these was what was marked as Shadforth’s Camp on the map. This had a lot of water lilies growing on the water hole.

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The track went sort of round that and across a gutter like creek, then further on we came to what seemed to be more of a flowing creek, and presumed this was Ringo’s Song. But we were guessing, really. Could not discern a track going further on, though the mud map indicated it did.

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We walked around for a while, exploring.

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Admired the excellent stands of pandanus growing here, particularly a fan shaped one.

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It definitely was worth the effort to get out there.

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December 6, 2019
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2005 Travels July 3

SUNDAY 3 JULY PUNGALINA

Our day off.

We slept in. Pottered about our camp for a while.

Took a packed lunch and drove out towards the wetlands – Lake Crocodylus.

On the way, stopped and had an explore at an area beside the track that looked like a sinkhole – quite a large depression in the land. Later, O said it was not really a sinkhole.

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Sinkhole-like depression by the track

It was pleasant enough, wandering around in the bush.

Turkey bush

At Crocodylus, the mud around the edges had dried up enough that we were able to take out one of the two man canoes, kept out there. We attempted a bird survey, results to go off to Birds Australia. It was hard to even begin to count all the ducks and other waterbirds, though. There were so many. We could not get very close before they took off in groups, flying. But there was one hell of a lot of them perched in the dead trees, particularly across the far side.

The paddling on the lake was easy and really enjoyable. The only down side was getting in and out of the canoe and getting muddy feet doing so – like well up the ankles!

We decided to try to drive back the long way – via the Jabiru wetlands track, but a little way along it, realized it was still too wet to be passable, so turned around – before we got bogged! Backtracked the way we had come.

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Some track clearing

I read for what was left of the afternoon. John spent time on his computer.

O flew out this morning to go to Brisbane to visit his lady friend.

This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

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