Gascoyne River | This Adventurous Age

August 2, 2020
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2006 Travels December 6

WEDNESDAY 6 DECEMBER NEWMAN TO LEONORA 730kms

Up early, while it was still relatively cool – and we were used to early starts. Quick basic breakfast. Hitching up again did not take too long, and away we went.

This trip was all about getting home, so we were not planning any sight seeing or side tracking. Just long days of driving.

It was soon really hot again, though. Going south was not making much difference. The Truck was not coping with both towing in temperatures well over 40, and having the air con on, so we had to manage with just the windows down and hoping the wind coming in was slightly cooling. Hope being the operative word.

Topped up the fuel at Kumarina Roadhouse. $1.62cpl. Bought cold drinks.

South of Kumarina, we stopped for a break at a Gascoyne River crossing. The river channel here – one of several at the headwaters of this large river system – had some water in it.

Gascoyne River channel

We had decided to try taking the unsealed Neds Creek road, which went south east from the highway, through to Wiluna. Various tradies from Leonora and Kalgoorlie had told us this was a much better quality way than going via Meekatharra.

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Gravel section of Neds Creek road

We found this way pretty smooth, and could make reasonable speed on the red dirt road. There were few other vehicles on it. There were still wildflowers in bloom, in places – pretty.

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We stopped part way along its length to stretch legs again and eat the sandwiches I’d made this morning.

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Road was a bit sandier here

Some 40kms north of Wiluna, the Neds Creek road was also the southern part of the legendary Canning Stock Route, so we could now say we had been on this – however briefly – as far as from Wiluna to Well 1. Not that we stopped to look for Well 1.

The Canning – originally pioneered to bring cattle from the Kimberley to southern markets – is the longest stock route in the world, depending on 51 wells sunk along its distance to water the travelling stock. However, it was not used for any length of time and these days is a difficult 4WD track that takes about three weeks to traverse from Wiluna to Halls Creek. It was on our to-do list, but we had not yet managed to get that expedition off the ground. This was definitely not a trek that it was sensible to do alone and we hadn’t managed to find friends with a suitable rig that they were prepared to chance on it. We still hoped……

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At the small, mostly indigenous settlement of Wiluna, we were back on sealed roads. Topped up the fuel again here – $1.46 cpl.

By the time we reached Leonora, we’d had enough driving for the day. Refuelled truck – $1.45cpl.

Got a powered site at the Leonora Caravan Park – $20. We were able to stay hitched up.

Leonora Caravan Park

I was a little curious about Leonora Lodge – the accommodation facility being developed by the company we’d been working for, but this was not the time to be going to see it – we were weary. We had visited Leonora before, a couple of years ago, and seen its main sights then – principally, the Sons of Gwalia mine and historic display.

It was another night much like the last, except the place was much quieter. Shower, tea, early night.

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June 25, 2019
by wendyviney 2 Comments

2004 Travels August 13

FRIDAY 13 AUGUST MESA CAMP TO CARNARVON 405kms

Another of those inauspicious Friday 13ths! I had lost track of the dates – easy to do when just idling away the days. Had I realized before we were on the road, I might have suggested staying another day!

We got away at 8.30. Having the pressure of the next lot of occupants waiting, did ensure we didn’t linger.

In Exmouth, took my library books back to the Exmouth Library. I had been so grateful to have books to read while we were relaxing in our Mesa camp.

Refuelled at $1.28cpl.

Bought bread rolls for lunch.

It was a comfortable drive south.

We stopped for me to make up our lunch at an overnight free camp spot – Lyndon River. It would be an adequate place to overnight. It was obviously well used.

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Lyndon River Rest Area

South of this, we rejoined the main Highway 1.

When we crossed the Gascoyne River bridge, on the approach to Carnarvon, the river was flowing! Not a banker, but a clear stream. This was obviously the aftermath of all the rain there had been, after we left town, back in early July. This was the first time we’d seen water in this river.

Gascoyne River with water

Went back to the Wintersun Caravan Park. Our main purpose for returning here to Carnarvon was for John to watch the Olympic Games – at a place where he knows TV reception is good. Yet again, our travels were being dictated by sport and TV! But, at least, it was better than Karratha, in that there was a bit more to do on the occasional breaks from viewing.

We booked in for two weeks at $110 a week, after discount.

After setting up, drove to the shopping centre. Collected mail at the PO. Went and bought prawns and snapper at the fish co-op.

I had a lovely, long, shower. It was great to feel properly clean again, after getting by with washes from a bucket, in the van, and the judicious use of wet wipes.

There was a text from house sitter L, to phone her, which we did. She said our old Russian Blue cat was really sick. This was basically cat decline from old age, and not unexpected. We told L to use her judgement about what to do. But we didn’t think we’d see the old cat again, which made us sad.

After tea, watched the last episode of “Old Dogs” on TV. It had been an entertaining series.

There was no sea noise to lull us to sleep tonight. Just the assorted noises of lots of other campers and the town environment in general.

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May 3, 2019
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2004 Travels July 2

FRIDAY 2 JULY KENNEDY RANGE NATIONAL PARK TO CARNARVON 240kms

The Kennedy Range extends south almost to Gascoyne Junction. So, today was attractive driving, that far, with the Range to our right.

Roadside patterns

Not far after rejoining the main road beside the Lyons River, we crossed that again, at a dry point. After that, the river was to our right, as well. Again, we crossed several dry stream beds – tributaries of the Lyons, and hence eventually, the Gascoyne.

Just north of Gascoyne Junction, we crossed that river, on a dry causeway ford.

Refuelled at Gascoyne Junction – just 20 litres, at $1.30cpl.

Last time we came this way, in ’93, the road west was closed by rain, and we could only go south west, via poorly signed station tracks, through Pimbee and Meedo stations, to Wooramel Roadhouse, on the highway. It was an adventure!

At Gascoyne Junction, I used the public phone (no mobile signal out here) to phone the caravan park in Carnarvon to book us in for four nights. John was impatient to get going again and cross about me doing this – until I informed him that the park had only one multi-night site available, which I’d booked. So it was a good thing that I’d thought to phone ahead.

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The unsealed road between Gascoyne Junction and the main highway, just north of Carnarvon, was rather corrugated, and with patches of bulldust in parts. We could see why this road was closed as soon as it rains – runs right by the river.

This section of the drive was pleasant – a little undulating, with very low sand dune sections, scrub covered, in places with little lakes between. Nice variety.

As we approached Carnarvon, the sky ahead was clouding over.

Went into the Wintersun Caravan Park. Top Tourist. $19.35 a night, after discount. The park was full, but did not feel too crowded. We were next to a big van, a couple with two little boys, the younger just walking. He reminded me of my little grandson – I was missing that little guy.

After setting up camp, drove into town – this caravan park is out on the edge – to get some foodstuffs.

We went to the prawn processing plant and bought a kilo of king prawn meat, for $27. For that, we got fifty one prawns!

We had TV again.

The showers were very welcome, after our showerless, dusty stay out in the bush.

Bought fish and chips for tea. Very greasy.

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April 13, 2019
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2004 Travels June 25

FRIDAY 25 JUNE MURCHISON SETTLEMENT TO MT AUGUSTUS 390kms

Today’s was a really interesting drive. North of Murchison Settlement, we moved into slightly less flat country, with more interesting stream crossings.

Wooramel River

We stopped for a while at the Wooramel River crossing, walked around, took some photos.

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Wooramel River

Then stopped at Bilung Pool for lunch.

Bilung Pool

These occurrences of water in the otherwise semi-arid country, act like magnets. A little stream that would be unremarkable in, say, Victoria, assumes great significance up here.

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At Bilung Pool we chatted for a while with another couple with a van, who pulled in behind us.

Bilung Pool would be a very pleasant place for an overnight stop – or longer – if we came this way again.

Could be a pleasant camp at Bilung Pool

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The road was surprisingly good – all unsealed, of course.

At “Glenburgh” we took the road past “Dalgety Downs”, north west to “Landor”.

By now, we were in the upper reaches of the Gascoyne River basin, and the little floodways and stream crossings – mostly dry – became quite frequent.

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Near “Landor” we met and turned north onto the Meekatharra-Landor road. We had used this route in 1993, to go from Meekatharra to Mt Augustus.

Crossed the upper Gascoyne River – multiple channels.

On Landor Station

There were a few aboriginal driven cars around the Burringurrah community, about half way between Landor and Mt Augustus.

We reached Mt Augustus about 5pm. The mountain was even more impressive than I remembered. It looms large from the camp ground, and can be seen from about 160kms away.

Satellite image of Mt Augustus (from Google)

Mount Augustus is actually the world’s biggest rock, reaching about 717 metres above the surrounding land. This is supposed to only be the top third – the other two thirds stretch below! Geologically, it is a monocline structure – a great fold of rock which protrudes through the surface – as opposed to Ayers Rock, which is a monolith, where the ground was worn down around it.

Mount Augustus is so much bigger than the better known – and more accessible – Ayers Rock. Mount Augustus is about 8km long and to drive around it is 49kms. It is really old – at least 1000 million years.

Mt Augustus area (from CALM brochure)

The “resort” – really just a camp area, with a few dongas too, on a station – does not seem to have changed much (progressed) in the eleven years since we were last here. It was kind of tatty and poorly maintained – but was $18 a night for a powered site.

The place is licensed. John bought a slab of beer – he forgot to do that in parts further south – whoops. Cost him $50. Diesel was $1.40cpl. The place appeared to do a sound trade in selling alcohol to aboriginals – presumably from the community we passed.

We set up on an area with a very welcome surround of grass.

Sat outside before and after tea. just watching the changing light on the mountain, and rejoicing in being in a remote place again.

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December 21, 2017
by wendyviney Leave a comment

2000 Travels November 1

WEDNESDAY 1 NOVEMBER CORAL BAY TO CARNARVON 247kms

We thought about having a final snorkel on the reef, before breakfast, but decided we needed to focus on the pack up and travel.

Left Coral Bay about 9.30am, after topping up the fuel with 20 litres, at $1.31cpl.

The van jockey wheel had been going flat really quickly, since Onslow, and John had not been able to get a new tube in the small towns we’ve been in. So, here, he tried putting silicone on the perished parts, and it actually stayed up longer. Having the flat jockey wheel had made hitching up the van harder for me, so I was pleased with any improvement.

It was a routine, but rather tedious drive to Carnarvon, through featureless, scrubby country.

We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn again, before reaching Highway 1. I wondered if/when we would return to the tropics?

Going south again

Just before reaching Carnarvon, we came into the irrigated fruit and vegetable growing area that exists around it, relying on water from bores around the Gascoyne River. This river is another with a really large catchment area. It can flood quite spectacularly. Its waters soak really quickly into the underlying aquifer and that is where the irrigation water comes from. Some say it is a river that flows upside down.

We stopped at a roadside produce stall on the approach to town and bought tomatoes and capsicums. They were cheap and fresh – lovely.

Booked into Wintersun Caravan Park, for $16.50 a night. John paid them an extra $3 so we could wash the van and get the Coral Bay salt off.

We ate lunch as soon as we arrived, then set up the camp.

Less arid here than at Coral Bay

Drove into town – this caravan park was right on the outskirts. There were banana plantations lining both sides of the road as we drove.

John was able to buy a new tube for the jockey wheel – hooray!

Bought a few supplies and meat for tea at Woolworths.

Carnarvon is rather a strange town – there seems to be no really defined central focus to it, just straggles of shops and businesses. There were quite a few closed businesses, which would seem to indicate some sort of local downturn.

John wanted me to make stuffed peppers for tea. They take quite a while to do, so tea was late.

I missed the sound of the sea at night, that we had at Coral Bay.

11-01-2000 to carn

This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

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