This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2005 Travels April 11

MONDAY 11 APRIL     PUNGALINA

We were awake and up before 7am. It was already hotter.

Had half a grapefruit each, for breakfast. John had some cereal too. I didn’t – felt the need to conserve our stock of soy milk until it was clear what would happen about supplies.

I washed our clothes. In this humidity we would probably need at least two changes a day! I did the washing by hand in our large plastic washing bowl, and carted water from the creek in two buckets. It did not seem that close, after all! Strung some clothesline rope I carried in the van, between some trees to hang the washing on – a temporary arrangement.

O and the two men arrived, closely followed by the three dingoes. They had come to set up a toilet and wall the showers. Hooray – digging a toilet hole off in the bush this morning had been hard work on the rocky ground!

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Looks like a serious morning discussion!

There seemed to have been a change of atmosphere from yesterday – O announced he would pay us as of today! Maybe he had been distracted/tired yesterday? Maybe he thought we would up and leave again when we saw the conditions here? Maybe M and J had interceded on our behalf? Whatever – things were looking up!

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Visiting dingoes checking us out

I gave O the camp supplies I’d bought in Cloncurry – it was cooler at his place to store foodstuffs.

The wheeled container containing the safari camp goods was parked at the edge of the large clearing that was the camp area. O had towed it down there before he left for the south, a few weeks before.

From the container was produced a toilet cistern, toilet bowl, three small handbasins, and some heaps of canvas. The latter turned out to be canvas walls. These were tied onto the steel frames of the showers to create walls – and doors. Each had a small handbasin put in place.

A length of framed wood was brought out and that turned out to be the toilet floor. The toilet was walled in a similar way, after the toilet and hand basin were put in place. All the basins and the toilet were connected to pipes that had remained in place through the Wet. Closer investigation revealed drains under the wire and corrugated iron of the shower floors.

While all this was going on, the men were also watering the camp lawns, hooking up movable sprinklers to long hoses, and pumping direct from the creek. John learned how to do this – his job from now on.

John mowed the path that had been made by O, from our clearing to the camp. It had been a very narrow track. I was pleased to have it wider – anything could have been lurking in the long grass along its edges. John also mowed the vehicle access track to our clearing.

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Track to house behind the Hilux. Track to our clearing to the right.

More fuel was needed for the mower, so John drove the battered old Hilux back to the main house, to fetch some. This had no windscreen, and like all vehicles on the place that could be accessed, it had been “dinged”. Dingoes love chewing things, it seems. There was no upholstery left on the seats, or on the dashboard. I made a note to self to always make sure the Defender windows were not left down!

The dingo matriarch, Scunge, hitched a ride on the Hilux tray, and John started to make friends with her.

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Dingo love!

It was so humid – well into the 30’s too. There was some cloud cover and a bit of breeze in the morning. Into the afternoon, the breeze was gone and it was very uncomfortable.

O said we had to do a couple of hours gardening, to earn our pay, today! So we drove up to the house and did an hour and a half in the vegie patch there. This was a fenced area – to keep out critters that might find the produce more attractive than native grass.

We weeded, dug some beds, watered what was there, which was not much. A had indicated, back in Melbourne, that growing vegies for the camp – and for all of us – would be a part of our roles. He had neglected to say that the vegetable garden would have to be established virtually from scratch! There were a few eggplant bushes growing – seemingly self sown – some basil, some mung beans (inedible things!), and a patch of lucerne that O had put in, to provide himself with green leafy food in the Wet season! There were a couple of patches of pumpkin and melon vines, outside the enclosure, in the main garden, where there were also citrus trees. Getting a decent range of produce going would certainly keep John busy. Me too, probably.

We had a fairly late lunch of sandwiches, back at the van.

O had said that, at this time of year, a break from work was taken through the hottest early part of the afternoon. We should try to rest or nap, then, to compensate for dawn starts! However, it was hard to get any decent rest in the very hot van – the interior wall by the bed was almost too hot to touch!

We put up the van annexe and unpacked some of the safari camp stuff from Truck – John’s tables and the tent signs.

O came and slashed more around our camp, creating a greater cleared fire buffer. Before he did that, the scrub was only about a metre from the van, in places. He’d told us that, over the off season, he’d had to put up a wire fence around the perimeter of about 5 acres of the camp area – quite a distance, even though the fourth side of this area was the unfenced creek, and with some of the fence on really swampy ground.  The fence was needed  because some of the feral cattle about the place had decided that the lush green lawn of the camp made  attractive grazing. He’d also installed a gate across the track, just up from the entrance to our clearing, which we were instructed to close at night – apparently that was when they tended to sneak in.

I had developed a rash on the backs of my hands. Maybe it was a reaction to the soaps used at Adels? It was itchy – but then, so was much of me. So many “bities” in these parts at this time of year. There were nasty biting horse fly things – much worse than March flies. They really had an impact. I had been bitten about five times today by them.

While working around our camp, saw a bird that was not listed on the Pungalina bird list we had been given – a pair of chestnut breasted mannikins.

In the afternoon, John was able to use our hoses and fittings to hook up to the camp water supply, by running a hose through the grass and scrub – very cautiously – over to a tap on the tank stand. It made a big difference, no longer having to cart water from the creek, and being able to wash hands in the van sink without using up our good drinking water in the van tanks. Ultimately, we would have to wean onto drinking water from the camp creek – boiled, until we were certain of its safety.

We drank litres of Gatorade, all day. Sweated it out again.

I decided to use our portable gas camping stove, outside, in the annexe, to cook. It was just too hot in the van to add any more heat in there.

This morning, our van batteries were down to medium charge, after using lights before bed last night, and the 12volt fan all night. The fridge was running a lot too, in the heat – a further drain on the batteries. At 5.30pm, John put the generator on and hooked up to the van. It took a while, but the charge got up. With the genset on, we were able to use the inverter to power the 240v fluoro light, the 240v fan (bliss) and John his laptop.

The power only got to amber light, not green, but was 12.2 by next morning, though.

I cooked John a couple of eggs for tea, with bread and salad. I felt a bit sick and wasn’t hungry, so just had a bit of salad. I felt a bit better, later, as the evening cooled.

There were lots of little, crawly, bitey bugs in the bed! Discovered when I went to go to bed. Didn’t know where they came from, or why, but had to try to brush them all up and throw them outside. Then spray the residue. Then it was hard to relax into sleep, imagining things crawling on me.

Despite the difficulties, we were feeling more positive about being here. Getting paid helped!


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2005 Travels April 10

SUNDAY 10 APRIL   HELLS GATE TO PUNGALINA   180kms

We were up before dawn and away from the roadhouse at 7am. O’s influence!

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Setting off from Hells Gate

The road was markedly poorer between Hells Gate and the border of Qld and NT.

Wollogorang Roadhouse was permanently closed now, as was the access it used to allow to the coast. Pity. Further east, near Burketown, Escott had also closed its tourist operation. Seemed cattle stations were finding looking after tourists too much of a distraction from their main business.

We encountered a number of ditch like crossings of either low water or dry creeks. These had not yet been shallowed out by grader. Made it slow going.

The day became progressively more hot and humid. It eventually got to over 40 degrees!

Over the border, into the NT, and we proceeded through the very pretty Redbank Gorge – an interesting feature in otherwise fairly featureless plain country.

About 20-25kms past the Redbank Mine, we turned north onto the 64kms long Pungalina access track. We had driven this before, in 2003, when we came to suss out the place, but that was at the end of the tourist season, when traffic had tamed the track, somewhat. Now, it was rough in places, sandy in others, and always slow going.

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Lockable “front gate” a little way along the Pungalina track

The first 21kms were not too bad. The next 16kms were very rocky. There were lots of little gutter-like shallow water flows, and a couple of rough, rocky, flowing creek crossings.

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Follow the leader…..

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At one of the rough creek crossings, John moved some rocks away from the approach, before we tackled it. We were, of course, following O, which helped.

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One of the sandy sections, maybe about 45kms in, was quite loose and deep, and we almost bogged down. We decided we would probably need help on this part when we eventually left here again!

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Track straighter – but sandier (not sure where I found this pic)

We stopped for smoko at a creek. O told us that this was named Hot Dog Creek, because in the early years here, one of his dogs came off the back of a vehicle, chased it and overheated and died. A sad tale!

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Hot Dog Creek at the crossing

O lit a small fire, boiled a billy, and made tea in that. Very strong tea. Real bushman stuff.

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Smoko

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The advantage of a small, manoeuvrable van

The country was still green and the spear grass tall. It was very different in appearance from our late dry season visit of 2003. It was exciting, driving through this wilderness country. I hoped we’d get sufficient time off to do lots of exploring.

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We reached O’s house about midday, so the estimate of about five hours travel had been accurate.

We met M and J, who had minded the place while O was gone. They seemed nice men; one was some kind of relative of O’s. Apparently, nothing had been done to set up the camp – but I couldn’t work out whether this was because they hadn’t gotten around to it, or whether someone who had been supposed to come and help had failed to show up. Didn’t like to ask, as O seemed somewhat put out by it all.

Also met O’s three dingoes – Scunge, Beau and Lachie. On our 2003 visit, Scunge had been tied up somewhere, so we hadn’t met her then – and the other two were from a litter she had last year, fathered by a local wild dingo. They were all interested in sniffing us out, but were not aggressive. We would all have to get used to each other.

We had lunch at the house, with the men – bread, vegemite, jam – and more tea. Some of the utensils used were none too clean…….

Then it was back into Truck and O led the way to the safari camp – back along the airstrip for a few hundred metres, then off onto a track that was about 5kms long, to the camp. He showed us the area where he thought we could set up our camp. There was a very roughly slashed track into a slashed clearing and turning circle around a large tree. Obviously, there had been considerable regrowth since O cut it a few weeks before. There was a dead tree standing almost in the middle of the cleared area.

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You can set up your camp in there!

It was all pretty rough.

Then O revealed that there were no showers, or toilet, yet, because there had been no setting up of the safari camp. We would have to dig a toilet hole! Great! There was no power, of course, but we had expected that and had our own solar power. The water supply was the creek that flowed past the safari camp area.

Well, we were here now, and would have to manage as best we could.

After surveying the clearing, John asked O if there was a motor mower. O went away and returned with a rather beat up old one. He then left us to get ourselves set up, saying he had other things to do.

We thought the site as presented was far too rough, and was a fire risk in its current state, with dry grass and brush lying about. John set to work – in the heat – and mowed the clearing again, which also chopped up a lot of the dry material more finely. I used the leaf rake we carry on our roof rack to pile up some of the cut material into heaps – maybe for later burning. John widened the access track into there, by removing some branches so we could even manoeuvre the van in.

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Clearing the clearing!

It was all hard work, trying to fix our camp in the heat and mugginess. There was quite a bit of cloud about and – at one stage – about three spits of rain.

John decided that the dead tree in the clearing would have to come down, because it would threaten the van.

Before we tackled that, we had to go and sit by the creek, with bottles of Gatorade – we were both feeling rather nauseous, from toiling in the heat.

I’d noticed that the clearing was close to the little mud brick “shed” that housed the camp generator. And here was I feeling happy at the prospect of sleeping nights without the background noise of the Adels  genset!

Whilst he’d been here, O had also said that he would put us on the payroll from next Wednesday week! I was not impressed, and pointed out that we were already working, to set up our camp. So he relented and said it would be from next Wednesday. We were quite put out by all this, given what we had to do to get set up, and how we were having to grub out roots and rocks to create even a roughly level area.

John had just started work on cutting down the dead tree – with our axe – when M and J arrived. They had come to ask us to come to tea. They stayed and helped with the tree, which was great, because John was starting to struggle. I think they were a bit stunned to see how much work we had already done to the clearing. They connected up a pump in the creek, that would pump water from the creek to the overhead tank that supplied water to the safari camp – when there was a camp! Showed John how it worked. They said that, although there was no surrounding structure, the shower pipes and heads would work, so we could have open air showers. Nice of them! They then had a swim in the creek – downstream from the pump – and went.

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That tree had to go before it fell on us….

M and J had obviously been doing a good job of watering and mowing the lawned safari camp area – it was green and lush, even if it was – as yet – tentless.

Eventually, we got the van in, and parked.

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Negotiating the entrance to our clearing

It was too humid, and we were too exhausted, to put up the awning today. We were running sweat – not just dripping! So we went and checked out the showers. These consisted of two floors of heavy wire and corrugated iron, two upright pipes coming out of the ground, and holding the shower heads and taps. There was a wire framework, which I presumed would eventually make walls. So, each shower was open to nature – if anything natural was interested. I was a little apprehensive that critters I didn’t want to meet, might have taken up residence under the corrugated iron of the shower floors. But it was so good to stand under the quite respectable water flow and get clean – and temporarily cooler.

Near dark, we drove the 5kms to O’s house. We were served a pot roast dinner – beef – which was tender enough, but quite coarse meat. There were some vegetables, but no gravy. There was red wine to drink, albeit a bit tart.

We were able to use O’s satellite phone service to call Adels and let them know we had arrived safely. Found out that the boss had to be flown to Mt Isa hospital this morning – medical emergency. They certainly could have used us there, still! L said the errant backpacker bus that we’d seen last night, didn’t get in there until half an hour after midnight. No one was happy – least of all the staff who’d had to wait up and then feed and get them settled in. I didn’t know what poor judgement had convinced the company managers to try the top route this early in the season.

O said he now realized that our clearing had not been slashed large enough to be fire safe, so he would come down and do more tomorrow. Good!

He explained that, after the safari camp was set up, the fridges would not be turned on when there were no guests in. He did not want to have to run the camp generator and thus waste fuel. I thought we would be much happier without the noise, but it would also mean that camp food perishables would have to be shuttled back and forth between the camp and house.

We were given some fruit and vegetables. Although “keep” was supposed to be part of the deal, we did not like to ask for too much – still had a few supplies of our own left, anyway. No mention was made of meat.

It was still humid, with the night temperature in the high 30’s. We were so tired that we slept well, even with the noisy little 12 volt fan going all night. It WAS lovely to be away from the generator noise we had at Adels.

Once the direct sun had gone, we noticed that there were lots of hungry mosquitoes about.

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2005 Travels April 9

SATURDAY 9 APRIL   ADELS GROVE TO HELLS GATE RH   219 kms

We left Adels about 10am. The day was quite hot and got more so as we progressed north and west.

I was a little sad to be saying goodbye to this beautiful place, yet again. At least we had seen it in a different guise this time – lucky us.

Took the route north, through Lawn Hill Station – which the Australian Agricultural Company took over, last year. There were no issues crossing Lawn Hill Creek, just north of the homestead – although the creek there was in a couple of branches, it was shallow, and the bottom was firm.

There was the usual mob of cattle at what we had taken to calling Cow Corner – where some paddocks converged and where there was water. And also a gate that I had to open – very carefully watching where I put my feet.

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Cow Corner

We had been apprehensive about the Elizabeth Creek ford – a bit of a dip down into it, and always water there, even late in the Dry. It had more water than we’d seen before, in it, but we got through OK.

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Elizabeth Creek

The track took us from Lawn Hill Station, onto Bowthorn country. We had been sad to hear, back at Adels, that both the sisters from that station had health problems and were now living on the east coast. They were unable to live back in the Gulf Country  because it was too remote from necessary medical services. So Bowthorn had just been sold, gossip had it for about $5million. Apparently, the tourism side of the operation had garnered some interest, but at this stage, no-one was sure about the future of that. Kingfisher Camp was so lovely, and such a tribute to the work of the sisters, that it would be a real shame if it did not keep going.

Turned right at the T intersection beyond Elizabeth Creek. The station tracks had been in fairly good condition. We reached the Gulf Track – rather ridiculously designated National Route 1 – and turned west. The Nicholson River ford at Doomadgee, which back in Melbourne we’d feared might hold us up, was actually dry! Clearly it had been a rather poor wet season in those parts.

The unsealed road was not too bad. There were the expected little gutters where storm water had flowed – not all of which John saw in time to slow right down! There tends to be regular traffic between Doomadgee and Hells Gate, (which sold beer) so that had smoothed the way, somewhat.

We reached Hells Gate Roadhouse about 2pm. Booked ourselves into the campground there – $16 for an unpowered site. Power would have added another $16 to that, so we declined! We did refuel Truck though – $1.47cpl. Ouch!

The van contents were a bit jumbled up, due to a couple of big bumps on the tracks!

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All shook up

We were just setting up the van for overnight when O arrived. Earlier than he’d expected. He decided to stay the night, rather than press on and end up driving in the dark on poor tracks. He was towing a large, flat bottomed boat, bought in Brisbane and destined for bird watching expeditions on the shallow wetlands, he thought. He had three new canoes – one on the Troopy roof and two packed in the boat.

I cooked tea for the three of us – pasta with tuna, tomato, capers. A favourite of ours – O liked it.

About 6pm, we saw the backpacker bus go by.  They had just started routing its Cairns-Darwin service via the Gulf Track again, after the Wet. I knew it had been due in at Adels in time for tea tonight – so the catering would be shot to blazes! Whoops! Heard later that he had been bogged in the Robinson River crossing and that was why he was so behind time.

It was a very humid night and a bit difficult to sleep. O wanted an early start in the morning, so we retired early. He estimated it would take us five or six hours to get to Pungalina .Two of his friends were staying at the house to keep an eye on things in his absence, and we gained a rather vague impression that they – or someone – would have the safari camp set up by now. Before each Wet Season, virtually the entire contents of the camp were dismantled and packed away in a cyclone proof shipping container – on wheels so it could then be towed to high ground. Otherwise floods and cyclones would destroy infrastructure like tents. But this meant that the camp had to be reassembled each year.

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2005 Travels April 8

FRIDAY 8 APRIL     ADELS GROVE

This was our last working day. It had not rained!

I phoned our house sitters to tell them what was happening, and to see how the old cat was. They said he was alright.

John put some ply over the air-con intake, under the van, in preparation for creek crossings.

Refuelled Truck – $1.32cpl.

It was just a normal evening meal on the deck – no special farewells, or the like. We’d only been a short time here, this year – and had a strong feeling we would be back another time.

Before tea, I went for a final walk around the campground. Had a look at the camping site that started it all – where we stayed on our first visit here in 2002.

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The site that started it all

 

We were very much anticipating tomorrow – but also somewhat worried about how we would manage the trip – too early for any roads to have been graded, this year.

 


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2005 Travels April 7

THURSDAY 7 APRIL     ADELS GROVE

The boss and her friend L were claiming it was going to rain, they wanted it to rain – heavily – and they wanted us to have to stay here! It was pleasant to feel so affirmed.

It was Flying Doctor Clinic day here. Lawn Hill Station people brought in a jillaroo who had damaged her neck in a fall from a horse. That created a minor drama and she was evacuated to Mt Isa in a full body brace.

The supply truck came in and we got some supplies we’d ordered.

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Packed up Truck

O phoned again. He would be quite late getting to Hells Gate, so would overnight there and continue on next day. Good – that took the pressure off us to get up there in a rush and would make for a much better drive for us.


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2005 Travels April 6

WEDNESDAY 6 APRIL     ADELS GROVE

Our day off.

John spent much of the day doing emails and downloads at the office. He sorted out some details related to bills we’d received in the mail bag, and the like.

It was mail plane day and we got a little package of mail from home.

I spent some time trying to sort out recipes and meal ideas, some more.

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There were a number of pythons and tree snakes about, at this time of year – not enough people around to scare them off. They were making X very nervous. Just something else for her to dramatize about – I had no sympathy what so ever!

 


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2005 Travels April 4

MONDAY 4 APRIL     ADELS GROVE

Today was worth a special write up, for a couple of happenings:

Boss R and the chopper pilot headed off to Darwin for the week of the annual Savannah Guide school. The Savannah Guide Association is a network of tour and accommodation operators, across northern Qld and NT. They have a heavy emphasis on conservation and responsible access to the special places of the region.

Our future employer phoned, as did the Pungalina manager O. The latter had been in Melbourne over Easter and then went on to Brisbane. He was picking up canoes and a boat in Brisbane and driving through on Saturday 9th. We arranged to rendezvous with him at Hells Gate Roadhouse, then, and follow him in to Pungalina. He said that the Gulf Track had a bad washout at Robinson River, which was limiting through traffic, but that the section we would be on, to the Pungalina turn off, would be do-able.

So – that put a definite date on when we would finish here, and move on to the next adventure.

I was really pleased, though, that we had done these few weeks here – it had been a different insight, being here at this time of year.

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Lawn Hill Creek at a somewhat higher level than we had seen before


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2005 Travels March 31-April 5

THURSDAY 31 – TUESDAY 5 APRIL     ADELS GROVE

I was mostly on kitchen duties through this period. I found it quite enjoyable. The boss was responsible for the meals, for the most part. I was being kitchen hand, doing lunches for staff and any visitors who wanted same, making desserts, salads and the like. The numbers were small, so it was a chance to be a bit creative. I think the boss was pleased to have me as backup in the kitchen.

Because of the hot weather and small numbers, I was able to feature salads in the meals more than was usual here. They were fun to make: coleslaw, potato salad, fancy lettuce based platters and the like. I quite often assembled fruit platters for dessert, or made fresh fruit salads, occasionally trifle.

It seemed to be cooling down somewhat, especially at night. Or maybe we were just acclimatizing.

John was on canoes throughout this period. R, who preferred to do this job, had hurt his back before Easter, and John was the most experienced person to replace him.

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X and Y were proving to be pretty useless. They religiously took two half hour smokos each day and an hour for lunch. Longer, if they could sneak it. She, in particular, sneaked off down to their van often during the day. She was very good at hiding from work, or dragging out the few jobs she didn’t object to. I found her a nasty person, too. She definitely did not have the pleasant manner needed to be on Reception! They did not pitch in and help with the dishes in the evening, either, in proper Adels style. He seemed to be obsessed with food – ate hugely. He was always on the lookout to snaffle the best leftovers, and prowled the fridge, freezer and the dry store! I would quite often go to put out food left from the previous evening’s meal, for the staff lunches – only to find that he’d raided the fridges at some stage through the morning and eaten the lot.

Friend F from Griffith  phoned one night. He and V would  be here in May. The boss would like them here sooner. I suspected  she wanted to get rid of X and Y as soon as she could. I had a feeling they would ask for more pay, once we had gone and there would be only L and R left. They were always moaning about the pay and conditions, and trying to get us onside about how bad it all was – which we did not agree with at all. Definitely not the sort of staff one wanted. It certainly brought home how much remote places like this can find it hard to obtain really good seasonal staff. It was always my view that we worked, in part, for the experience itself, and the chance to explore where tourists could not go. It was not just about salary and rigid conditions.

I knew that X and Y had not yet visited the National Park, at the time we arrived. But I also noticed that they avoided doing so, on their days off. Hmmm…..

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Mini rapids on Lawn Hill Creek


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2005 Travels March 25-29

FRIDAY 25 – TUESDAY 29 MARCH     ADELS GROVE

This was the Easter period.

Advance bookings had been poor for this period. Perhaps people had been waiting to see what the weather would do – especially with that cyclone scare earlier in the month. But then they came – in heaps, for DBB accommodation. All the hire tents were used. There were lots in the campground too.

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Twp of the smaller campsites that overlooked the Grove

A lot of the visitors at that time of year were locals from Mt Isa and Cloncurry.

So, it turned out to be a very good start to the season.

I did quite a bit of kitchen hand work and assisting the boss with cooking. They did not as yet, have a cook appointed for the season. X refused to have anything at all to do with food or the kitchen. She really was too precious for words.

I was rostered on the tent housekeeping and laundry sometimes, too. All quite routine tasks for me, given the prior experience. It was very hot and airless working in the tents though, so not very pleasant.

John was rostered on the canoe hire at the National Park, across the whole period, which really pleased him.

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Canoe damage caused by dragging canoes around Indarri Falls

There was a new Head Ranger at the National Park – a lady from down south. When John brought this news back, one afternoon, Y seemed most taken aback. Seemed he knew her from somewhere. From his reaction, we suspected there was some history there!

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The children’s swimming area