This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels June 8

THURSDAY 8 JUNE     CLONCURRY

Today was a cloudy day, with some intermittent rain.

I washed the bedding, and was lucky to get it dry. I finished a letter to V. John did banking updates.

We heard that, due to heavy rain further north, overnight, all the Gulf dirt roads were closed. I phoned the Gregory Hotel to confirm – yes, it was true. The 4WD Road Trek lot were stuck at Burke and Wills Roadhouse. The hotel man said the roads would be closed for two days to a week, depending on whether there was any more rain. More is actually forecast.

This created a dilemma for us. Would we hang around here, for an unknown time, in order to go north west to Lawn Hill National Park? Or would we give up and continue west, since our main goal for this dry season (ha!) was the Kimberley?

We decided to push on. Next year’s rough plan would probably see us coming back across this way from north west WA, and we could try for Lawn Hill then.

Drove to the shops – John wanted some internet time. I bought some food for tea. We filled the gas bottles and Truck – 95cpl! Big jump in price from Winton.

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Pleasant to be on a site with some grass again

Tea was soup, chicken drumsticks, salad.

Then we went off to social bowls – Cloncurry style. A unique and unpleasant experience. It was a drinking club. Social bowls turned out to be beginners’ night, with a few young kids, a very drunk young aborigine, and the usual hard core bowls types. The kids were nice and keen and had some potential. The indigine kept falling flat on his face every time he tried to pick up a bowl. It was awful. At one stage, he fell into the narrow gutter at the side of the green, and was there for some time. It was disgraceful that the kids – ages about 9 to 12 – were witness to it all.

We queried why he was allowed to stay – and why he kept on being served yet more alcohol – and were told that, if the club tried to remove him, or refused to serve him, they would be accused of racial discrimination! Political correctness has gone crazy! He was a drunken fool who should not have been tolerated in anyone’s company. Had he been white he’d have been well and truly out.

I shall be very wary of night time social bowls in such towns, in the future!


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2000 Travels June 7

WEDNESDAY 7 JUNE     CLONCURRY

We slept in.

As soon as I got up, it was off to the laundry, where I did two loads of washing.

A lady also doing her washing recognized me as having taught her at Hamilton High – about 1970! I was amazed to still be recognizable, thirty years later! L and her family were doing an extended trip and heading for Lawn Hill and then east to the Cape.

It was a late breakfast for me, and then I sat in the sun and sewed for a while.

John went down the street, to check out the bowls club and came back with the news we were going to social bowls tomorrow night.

There did not seem to be as much to see and do in Cloncurry as I had anticipated.

After lunch, we walked up the hill near the park and looked out over the area. There were many hills on the horizon, to the south and south west especially. We chatted for a while with a Qld Rail man who was up there too.

The railway is very active in Cloncurry because of mining and cattle. Apart from mines around the town itself, lines come in from Mt Isa and the mining towns to the south west, like Duchess and Dajarra.

From the top of the hill, we could see across to the rail yards in the distance, and see a big train being assembled to go east. We had already noticed, on the way into town yesterday, the big road trucks moving ore from the local mine/s to the rail depot.

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Assembling a big train to go east

Went into town for some food supplies, then visited L’s site and talked with them some more.

Tea was pumpkin soup, beef mince curry and rice.


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2000 Travels June 6

TUESDAY 6 JUNE   WINTON TO CLONCURRY   380kms

It was cloudy again.

We left the caravan park about 9am – part of the usual morning exodus from Winton.

Refuelled at the Caltex depot – still 83cpl.

Took the highway to the north west, through mostly flat grassland country, broken occasionally by low tree lines that marked a water course, or a shallow depression where water stayed longer. There was one interesting area of low jump ups that we passed to the edge of, maybe 50 or 60kms from Winton.

Not far before Kynuna, we turned onto the dirt track to Combo Waterhole, on the upper reaches of the Diamantina River. This waterhole is supposed to have been the inspiration for Banjo Paterson to write “Waltzing Matilda”, while he was staying at nearby Dagworth Station, and picnicked there. No one knows for sure whether there ever really was a sheep stealing swagman once camped here, but it would be a pleasant spot for a camp, for sure.

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Combo Waterhole on the Diamantina River

We did the Information Walk , finding out about the many channels of the Diamantina River here, and crossing several of them – dry.

An interesting feature that was highlighted was the low stone overshot weirs, built about a hundred years ago using Chinese labour. The technique of using flat stones to build these was a Chinese one – and obviously effective, given how well the weirs have lasted.

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Dry river channel and overshot weir at Combo

We spotted three new birds – a Jacky Winter, a brown songlark and a pratincole.

Ate our lunch by the waterhole – wide, brown, peaceful.

Just as we were finishing lunch, heard a motor and then a vehicle arrived – an official vehicle of the Outback Trek – a 4WD fundraising event. They said the Trekker vehicles were expected within the hour – so we left – hastily! We definitely did not want to get caught up in the noise, dust and general mayhem of that sort of thing.

The rest of the drive to Cloncurry was uneventful, through country with many water channels – mostly dry – and with the occasional hills.

Just beyond Kynuna was where the divide is between the streams that drain into the Lake Eyre Basin, like the Diamantina and those that drain north, to the Gulf, like the Flinders River. I guessed this meant that we had entered the Gulf Country?

There was less grass as we got closer to Cloncurry and we had a few spots of rain.

Booked into the Gilbert Park Caravan Park, on the eastern outskirts of town for three nights – for $13.50 a night, after discount. It seemed alright.

We unhitched and set up, then drove into town, found a Woolworths, bought some supplies, then bought an early fish and chip tea.

By then, it was quite windy and cool.

Phoned and left message for K that we were back in civilization. J phoned his daughters – one had flu and one wasn’t home.

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2000 Travels June 5

MONDAY 5 JUNE   OPALTON TO WINTON   128kms

The sky was cloudy today, but it was high cloud.

We had a lot to pack up. Left Opalton about 11am – sadly, as we had become quite attached to our shelter and the camp area in general.

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Last view of our camp at Opalton

Reached Winton about 1.30pm, and stopped in town to collect the mail. Had a quick look through it, immediately. A cheque was there, for John’s inheritance from his sister, so he banked that straight away, at the Post Office. He wrote out a cheque for the money he’d promised R and sent that off.

I quickly bought a few supplies.

We booked back into the Matilda Country Caravan Park, for $13.50, and stayed in one of their sites where we could remain hitched up.

I had a looooong hot shower, washed my hair, shaved my legs, pumiced my feet. Then I felt really clean again! The shower at Opalton had been sort of adequate, but one did not linger in the very cold water, and of course, it was heavily sedimented.

John chatted with a couple of fellow campers who came from Wagga. One made wooden tool handles so they all chatted about that, and steaming wood to shape it, a process that interests John. He obtained their names and addresses and an invitation to look them up when next we go through Wagga.

Tea was pumpkin soup, sausages in bread.

We had TV again! I hadn’t missed it. Tonight did miss sitting out around the fire in the quiet of the bush, though.

The cloud cover made the night seem warmer.


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2000 Travels June 4

SUNDAY 4 JUNE     OPALTON

Last night seemed a little warmer and the sky was blue again today.

John went noodling on the heaps after breakfast.

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Another flowering bush on the mullock heaps

The creepy one left – good!

We went for a walk after lunch, taking the back track towards the Outpost. We passed quite a substantial stone house, looking un-lived-in. Thought it might belong to seasonal miners, but B told us later that it belonged to a Winton man. The story was that in his poking about for opal, he dug up some bones by Sandy Creek, reputed to be those of three old timers who had been murdered. He took the bones to his house. He then had a ferociously scary night and since then had refused to ever sleep again in the house, believing it to be haunted by the murdered men! He wanted $25,000 to sell it, though.

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So you know where you are…….

We did a bit of specking as we walked. There were lots of old mine shafts on the flats.

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Central Opalton – looking toward the Outpost store

As we made our way back, a resident from a camp near the Bush Camp, came across to us and showed us an opal he’d just noodled on the nearby heaps. As he spoke to us, he kept his face turned away from us – not sure if he was ashamed of his teeth, or did not want to be identified! (We had earlier commented to ourselves that a foray through this area and the surrounding hill country would make a dent in various State Most Wanted lists!)

Anyway, the gent said we could noodle in that area. He came back a few minutes later – he’d cracked the stone and reckoned he’d just made $2000-$3000! So he was very happy – obviously he’d needed to tell someone!

We noodled there very enthusiastically, but it was pretty late in the afternoon and we couldn’t really see well enough. Next time!

A low loader trundled in carrying an excavator. He seemed a bit lost. He said he had to go 35kms beyond the airstrip. That was rather vague, but we thought his destination was possibly Devil Devil or Opal Creek, and were wondering how on earth to describe the way to him. Then a 4WD came by and said he’d lead him out there.

I made pumpkin soup. We had that for tea with salmon steaks and salad.

The battery seemed to be struggling to power the fridge now. Some of the things in the freezebox seemed to be softening a bit. Clearly, we needed to revisit our whole solar power system and its adequacy, at some stage.

The kero lamp had given up working too – blocked jets?

This was our last night round our campfire. It was a good. clear night for it – the starry sky was brilliant.

It had been a great stay out here, marred only by the power supply issue.


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2000 Travels June 3

SATURDAY 3 JUNE   OPALTON

It was another really cold night. The overnight low registering on our weather station in the van has consistently been 3 degrees. The day was sunny again, but the wind was much less today and so it felt a bit warmer.

In the morning, John fossicked on the heaps. I made roti breads. After lunch we both went out onto the heaps for a while and brought back a few rocks to investigate.

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Flowering bush growing on the mullock heaps

We talked for a while with an older couple who arrived with an old Toyota and van. They were following a mud map from the Matilda Centre in Winton, to drive a circuit via the Mayneside ruins and Lark Quarry. They decided to push on and camp in the bush – more his idea than hers, I felt!

The last two nights have been very quiet out here, with just M and B, and us in the camp. A young guy arrived this afternoon and he parked at the next hut. He said he drove tracks across from Longreach. I thought he was a bit creepy – not sure about him!

L came back from Winton today. M was keeping an eye on the Outpost while he was gone. L said that he would not be able to cope with the coming GST and would close the Outpost down rather than be forced to try to master it. That would be a pity – he serves a valuable function in this area.

Tea was the last of the minestrone soup, chops, potato done in foil in the fire, bacon, egg for John, tomato for me. We even had a few bits of green veggies.

Our fresh supplies have lasted rather well. I used the last of my fresh milk this morning. We still had some fruit left.

John rad-phoned a couple of relatives. They’ve had ‘flu. There has been snow in the Dandenongs!


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2000 Travels June 2

FRIDAY 2 JUNE     OPALTON

Last night was another really cold one. Today, like yesterday, was sunny but with the cold wind.

L’s friends left this morning, and L went off to Winton.

John wanted to use the GPS and the Queensland Outback regional map we have, to find the old diggings area south of the Mayne River. He pre-set waypoints that he’d worked out from the map, into the GPS. However, the map was too small for him to pinpoint locations, and the tracks were not marked accurately on it, anyway. So his locations were not exact. This annoyed him and put great pressure on me to try to navigate with inadequate resources!

We set off, taking the track south. The first turnoff was supposedly 14kms south of Opalton. Because this didn’t match the GPS waypoint, John thought we were on the wrong track. This view was reinforced when the next supposed point was also not there. I thought the track was the right one and the positions were simply consistently out by a little to the south.

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Track through ironstone and spinifex country south of Opalton

John took several side tracks, trying to find his entered waypoints, and we tracked and backtracked in the maze of tracks around various diggings. At least it was all quite scenic.

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Country south of the Mayne River

Eventually, we got back onto the original track and reached a long waterhole which we assumed was the Mayne River. Later, we found out that this was called Mailmans and there used to be a coach stop there. We had lunch there, with lots of birds around.

From there we continued roughly south, eventually fetching up where John was aiming for. It was an area of jump up mesa country and much open cut mining, but there did not appear to be anyone around.

06-02-2000 old mine area sth of Moyne R

Area of mining south of the Mayne River

We saw some emu wrens in the spinifex – lovely.

By this time, it was too late to do any serious fossicking, so we turned back for camp.

We got back to the Mayne River alright, but took a couple of wrong turns to the north of it. When we had been twisting and turning in that area in the morning, John had stopped me from marking waypoints on the GPS, as it was “cluttering up the memory”! So we were relying mostly on memory, here.

We came across a substantial camp, that we hadn’t encountered this morning. It had gardens and all. We had to check the way to Opalton with the man who was there. Even so, we took one more wrong turn.

I calculated we did about 40kms on wrong tracks, over the day! Out of the 141kms we drove.

I really enjoyed the scenery we drove through – it was a worthwhile outing just for that.

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Harsh country south of Opalton

It was nearly dark when we got back to camp.

Tea was fries and battered oven-fry fish – cooked in a frying pan though.

After tea I read a book I’d borrowed from the Outpost.


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2000 Travels June 1

THURSDAY 1 JUNE     OPALTON

The first day of winter, with clear blue sky but a chilly wind. Overnight, the temperature inside the van registered a low of 3 degrees! Technically, we were in the tropics, here – just – but you wouldn’t know it.

John ran the Truck to put some charge into the van battery, in the morning.

Just before 11am, we drove up to the Outpost to be there when the mail run arrived. This was the social highlight of the Opalton week – maybe the only highlight! It was quite fascinating. There were certainly a lot more people in the area than we realized. It was quite a weird array of characters and vehicles. People chatted amongst themselves – it was obviously the weekly catch up. There were heaps of dogs around and it was a great meeting place for them too!

I posted two letters to friends, which would carry an Opalton Outpost franking. Unusual.

There was quite a little crowd gathered by 11am and L had his HF radio rigged so it could be heard outside. We heard the mail lady announce she was “just coming over the grid” and the crowd stirred.

A good five minutes later a ute pulled in. The diminutive mail lady was very self-important. An array of goods came with the mail bags – boxes of groceries, eskies of meat, gas bottles, containers of diesel, bags of chook feed! All items that people had ordered. People came, helped to unload the ute, then left with their goodies.

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The Thursday mail run

L, the lady we’d met in the Winton butcher’s shop, turned up with partner J. We arranged to follow them out to Devil Devil to look at their open cut mining. But, before we went, John had described to J the junk heaps we’d found the other day, on the hill beyond Snake Jump – and J was interested to see what was there. Potential spare parts!

Then we headed out to their mine area – on the same track that we’d taken, on Tuesday. I had the GPS going, to record our route waypoints, and the directions we were taking were all over the place, to every point of the compass. We knew Devil Devil was west of Opalton, but we also went south, north and even east at one stage. L told us later that the guy with the grader, who made the track, got lost a few times when he was doing it! Devil Devil is some 16kms to the west, but the track distance was 28kms!

We went straight to their camp area where they dropped off their mail and had a quick lunch. There was a moment of embarrassment when I think L thought they should offer us some food (I suspected they were getting by on a minimum) but I quickly mentioned that we’d bought our sandwiches with us.

L and J  shared their camp area with an older, experienced miner, R. It was quite a substantial camp with 240v generators, a shower “building”, a pit toilet that they bored. They were hairdressers from the Gold Coast. The lease actually belonged to a former customer of theirs, whose husband was too ill to mine any more. L and J were keen to try opal mining, so they have some sort of share arrangement with her. L and J were novices, but said they were learning fast! This was their first season out here, apart from a visit last year. They hadn’t worked a dozer or excavator before!

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Working the excavator on the opal claim

We drove tracks to where they were digging, a couple of kms from the camp.They told us about fault lines in the rock as an indicator of opal and showed us the terrain they were excavating. J brings up a shovel full of dirt and rock and L looks quickly through it for any signs of good stuff. They didn’t seem to be finding any, though.

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Excavated mine pit showing rock layers

They demonstrated how to “divine” a fault line with bent wire – John had a try and was really good at it. Pity one couldn’t divine for sapphire bearing gravel in the gemfields!

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Divining fault lines with a bent wire at Devil Devil

We did some birdwatching while L and J were working, and found a Mallee wren and a red backed kingfisher – both new to us.

We then followed L and J to look at where R was mining, but he wasn’t there. We found him back at the camp. He had knocked off early because he’d found a big pipe that he thought was worth tens of thousands of dollars! He showed us – it was huge. Longer than his forearm, and thicker. He gave us the name of his son, in Barcaldine, who cuts opal. He talked of various claims in terms of how many millions X or Y took out of it last season! It was a fascinating insight into an activity and way of life we’d not known anything of. Obviously, L and J were hoping to strike those sorts of riches too.

The largest opal pipe ever found was at Opalton in 1899 – over 3 metres long and as thick as a man’s thigh. It took four men to carry it!

Even with the GPS waypoints entered, we got a little lost, leaving Devil Devil. There were huge open cuts through the area and tracks everywhere.

We gathered some wood on the way back.

It was late afternoon when we got back to the van. We’d driven 65kms.

S and S, the two Europeans, left this morning.

Tea was soup, stir fry noodles with pork and veggies.

While we were at the Outpost this morning, found out that L has a Flying Doctor medical chest. These are supplied to remote places by the Flying Doctor Service – one person is responsible for it. So L would be the liason person with the RFDS in case of an emergency for one of the locals – or a traveller.


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2000 Travels May 31

WEDNESDAY 31 MAY     OPALTON

There was a lovely blue sky and an unpleasant chilly wind.

Pottered about as usual in the morning.

John was really getting the water clearing process working well now – it is fine for washing hands, dishes.

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Ash in water causes the suspended clay silt to settle to the bottom

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Siphoning off the clarified water

Last night S and G, the Europeans, put both the yabby nets – theirs and ours – into a waterhole, and got forty yabbies overnight. I took a photo of them, cooked and lined up on M’s table.

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Cooked yabbies – feast for the camp tonight!

Went walking after lunch, all round the old area, as marked by the historic site signs. The old town had at least two hotels! It was hard to visualize what the town layout had been, just from the signs there now. But we know there were at least 600 people here about a hundred years ago.

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Remains of the bakery

In the old town area there was lots of broken glass and pieces of broken pottery.

It looked like the new airstrip was bulldozed through the middle of the old town site. Apparently the Flying Doctor – the main reason for building the strip – can’t use it. It is not the dog leg in the middle that is an issue, but the windmill on a rise at the end of the strip. Oops! Mistake on someone’s part!

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Memorial to a more recent death – and a warning

The old township was established beside the creek, which clearly dries up most years. We walked along the creek, past one big waterhole and a few small ones. I think we were seeing this area after an unusually wet season, judging by the growth we’d seen around Winton, and the waterholes in the creeks out this way.

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The creek was really pretty. We saw the Cloncurry variant of the ringneck parrot, very clearly.

Coming back, along a narrow bit of the creek, we came across a place where the creek in a flood, appeared to have broken through down into an old shaft. Very deep and quite scary! Suddenly, the ground did not seem all that solid, especially in the creek beds!

John went very close to walking into a BIG spider, in its web, slung between two close trees. He got a big fright!

M told us that the old claims area, behind the Bush Camp, where we go noodling, is riddled with old shafts that are now full of water. It could be quite dangerous to go wandering too much out there.

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New digging in the foreground and old mullock heaps in distance

We plugged the van to Truck again and ran the engine for half an hour.

B came round and John explained to him about the 4WD Radio Network and showed him the sched routine. Then John went off to show S how to dry sieve for gemstones – they are planning to visit the Rubyvale area next.

L told us he was expecting friends to visit and they arrived this afternoon – an 87 year old, with a much younger American wife. They were installed in one of the huts, with L hovering in attendance. We could hear much talk of opals, mines, leases, a local they all knew who was selling his lease, and so on.

Tea was minestrone, then zucchini slice made in the camp oven.

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Camp oven zucchini slice

It was the last day of autumn. In 98 on this day we were at Mission Beach, last year at Erldunda. I wondered about 2001? Probably in the north of WA?


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2000 Travels May 30

TUESDAY 30 MAY     OPALTON

Last night was slightly warmer. The day was fine, but cool.

John noodled in the morning, then made potato bread. I cooked minestrone.

At lunchtime, a bus load of school children arrived – not what one would expect, out here. L showed them round for about an hour.

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The Bush Camp, Opalton. Amenity block at left. A bush shelter at right.

 

After lunch, we went driving again, roughly  west. We went past a sizeable mine – outside the declared fossicking area – and followed the more used tracks. About 16kms out, stopped at a creek crossing, with a small rocky gorge and some waterholes – a pretty place. We walked along the creek for some way.

Then we drove on a couple of kms further. I like this type of country but it was fairly flat. We collected wood on the way back.

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Reflections in the rocky creek

Tea was minestrone, and toad in the hole, made in the camp oven – was good.

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Camp oven cookery – coals on lid for heat

The night was not as cold.

John had begun plugging the van into the Truck power outlet and running the motor for a while, to give a bit of a boost to the power charge. We had also begun to half drop the poptop to improve the angle to the sun, for the solar panel. We were obviously not as self sufficient out here as we thought we’d be!