This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

Category Archives: 1999 Travels


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1999 Travels November 1

MONDAY 1 NOVEMBER     DEVONPORT

Today was a public holiday in northern Tasmania – Recreation Day – because they do not have a Cup Day holiday.

We had a quiet day. My throat was improving, but I still had blocked ears.

I read, and sewed.

After lunch, because the weather had fined up, somewhat, we went for a bike ride – around the local bike path, to the ferry terminal, around some streets and then along the coast for a way. It was a pleasant 11km ride.

Tea was potato soup, fish parcels with a lime/ginger marinade, and fries. Unfortunately, the trevalla was a bit dry.


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1999 Travels October 31

SUNDAY 31 OCTOBER     DEVONPORT

Woke up still with the sore throat. My ears feel blocked, too.

We both went to the bowls tournament today, which was mixed pairs at the Devonport Club.

It was very windy, with occasional showers, which made it hard to judge the play. We lost all three games, but had some tough opposition. The pair that just beat us in the last game were the overall winners of the day.

I did not really enjoy the day much – my throat got steadily worse. My ears were blocked.

Tea was soup, cold roast chicken, potato mash.


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1999 Travels October 30

SATURDAY 30 OCTOBER     DEVONPORT

I woke with a sore throat. This is really annoying, as I have just gotten over the last bug! Or so I thought.

We got the papers, then John went off to bowls.

I read the papers thoroughly, sewed, made soup, cooked roast chicken and vegetables for tea. I enjoyed my day alone and in relative leisure.

John enjoyed his bowls.

It was a wet and windy day and I was surprised that the bowls went on, at all. Maybe they are used to playing through adverse weather, here!


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1999 Travels October 29

FRIDAY 29 0CTOBER     DEVONPORT

We did some grocery shopping in the morning, then I packed lunch and we headed off down the Bass Highway, towards Deloraine. We ate lunch in Truck as we went along.

Today’s destination was the annual Deloraine Craft Show, which I had seen advertised.

This event was much bigger than I had anticipated – in spades! Exhibitions were spread among a number of venues through the town, with buses running between them. We parked Truck and, having a program outlining what was featured in each venue, caught our first bus.

This Craft Fair has come about, I think, mainly because Deloraine has in the last couple of decades, become a major area for alternative lifestyle dwellers, who have settled in the town and in the rural surrounds, often where farmland grades up into bush country. These newer settlers brought a wide variety of craft and artisan activities, and Rotary people began the annual exhibition of such crafts. It has obviously grown enormously as a draw card both for visitors and exhibitors.

We managed to take in five venues and saw some brilliant woodwork and sewing crafts – the two areas that interested us most. There were some craft specialities, and items, that we were not interested in, or did not like, but others seemed to.

We came across a stall selling Hardanger embroidery work, which was inspirational, and the first time I have ever seen this done by anyone apart from me! The two ladies who had the stall had only been doing it for about four years – they are obviously much faster at turning out pieces than I am!

There was some brilliant framing of landscape photos, in raw wood frames, with dark green or grey mat surrounds. We noted a very stylish turned wood dip and biscuit tray – something for John to try, one day? I liked a CD cupboard that had wooden lattice doors. There were excellent wood dining chairs. I don’t think it would have taken much, at this point, for John to abandon travel and hurry home to his shed and wood machines!

We bought some Ashgrove cheeses – lots of cheeses! And a bush pepper liqueur. The Show has obviously broadened to include some of the artisan foods produce that is steadily becoming a major feature of the island. So good to see this sort of thing here.

It was a very pretty drive down to Deloraine and back. We decided that we look forward to staying a week or two there, later in the trip. With my mother’s family coming from those parts, I want to explore some more there.

The feet and legs finished up extremely tired!

Tea was fish and chips from the great local shop, again.


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1999 Travels October 28

THURSDAY 28 OCTOBER     DEVONPORT

It was another slow start to the day. I wondered if this was the effect of daylight saving? Our bodies are still lagging an hour behind the clock, and the cool, grey, dim, mornings don’t help.

John phoned our sharebroker to order some biotech shares he wants to buy. The company is experimenting with making artificial hearts. The stock is a gamble, but it is cheap, and might just pay off.

I went and booked us in here for another week.

We eventually got moving, on a drive out to the Leven Canyon. Followed the Bass Highway to Ulverstone, then went south through Nietta and followed back roads to the Leven Canyon picnic ground and car park. The country side we travelled through was really pretty. Despite all the Tasmania visits I have done, have not explored this north coast area before.

Had our packed lunch in the picnic ground, in the forest. There was no one else there, but we were visited by a begging currawong, who scored a crust for its efforts. In return, we took a photo.

10-28-1999 leven canyon.jpg

Communicating with a currawong

We had several stops to watch birds, today – and saw our first Native Hen. Well, I had seen them before, at an uncle’s farm at Jackeys Marsh, but it was a first for John.

We took the walk track to the Canyon Lookout – a pleasant walk, with a good view over the wild canyon area, where the Leven River has cut down into limestone, to make a gorge.

Back at the picnic area we chatted for a while with a young couple who’d arrived and were admiring the Defender.

Then we walked down the other side of the circuit walk to another vantage point over the Canyon, having decided that to do the full circuit walk would be too steep and slippery for John. As it was, we had a steep and steady climb back up, which was enough for me!

We drove a little way further along the Loogana Road that we’d come on from Nietta, getting some good views over the Leven River and Black Bluff on its far side. Then turned around and went back, turning off after Nietta and taking back roads through Kindred, to Forth, and then the Forth Road to come into Devonport a different way.

That was a most enjoyable day out – we drove 145kms. In Tasmania, it does not take far, or long, to get from really tame and civilized country, to the wilds.

Refuelled, for the first time in Tasmania, at East Devonport – 80cpl, so more expensive here.

Tea was chicken noodle soup and Irish Stew – we were back in time for me to get this cooked adequately.


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1999 Travels October 27

WEDNESDAY 27 OCTOBER     DEVONPORT

There were some rain showers today and it was fairly cool.

After an early lunch, we went to the East Devonport Bowls Club, and played in a social bowls afternoon, with Uncle T. My dad would have been pleased to see this! I did not play at all well and did not enjoy myself much.

John arranged to be in a tournament at the weekend. I’d thought we might move on then – but no.

Tea was mushroom soup, pasta with asparagus and bacon.


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1999 Travels October 26

TUESDAY 26 OCTOBER    DEVONPORT

We had a rather slow start to the day, which was grey and chilly.

We did not want to go near the centre of town, because the politician Kim Beasley was doing a meet and greet walk in the Mall, so it was an area to avoid.

Eventually, despite threatening rain, decided to go for a drive.

Crossed the bridge, then followed the Bass Highway west, through the town outskirts, then farmland, to the coast. For much of the way across northern Tasmania, the main road runs close to the sea, in places very close to it. There are no dunes or cliffs, often just a narrow grassy strip between the road and a small pebbly beach by the water. It is quite different to what we get on the mainland. It certainly makes for an attractive drive.

At Leith, we detoured to drive out to Braddons Lookout, which gave an outlook over the Forth River, to the west. It was really just a view over some farm lands and low hills. Pleasant, but not interesting enough to photo.

Drove through Turners Beach and as far as Ulverstone, just looking about.

The rain that had been threatening turned itself into rain proper, and storms, so we back tracked to the van and lazed about there for the rest of the day. We had managed to drive 120kms.

Tea was the last of the well-travelled vegie soup, sausages, mash and asparagus


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1999 Travels October 25

MONDAY 25 OCTOBER    DEVONPORT

After breakfast, we drove to the town centre, then went on a big walking expedition of the shops.

We visited the Information Centre, where I collected quite a lot of material. At Impressions Gallery, we spent ages browsing the excellent woodwork and pottery on display. As always, we both find good wood craft inspirational.

Another stop was at the Backpackers Barn – known to us from our 1991 and 1992 visits. There, I bought cards, books on walks, and maps. The old cockatoo that was such a personality is still strutting his stuff there, but he is now caged for some of the time, because of his increasing propensity to shred things!

Back at the van, to a very late lunch, then read the weekend papers that I’d finally managed to get.

Tea was vegie soup, chicken satay and rice.

The nights are fairly chilly.


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1999 Travels October 24

SUNDAY 24 OCTOBER     DEVONPORT

It was another lovely, blue sky, sunny day.

We arrived at my aunt and uncle’s place at the arranged 10.30am. It was great to see my uncle – Dad’s brother – again. Last saw them in 1992.

We followed their car on the Bass Highway, to Hagley, where we met up with cousin S. Then we followed them to Rosevale – taking a very round-about route, it seemed.

There were about sixty people in the hall we met at. It seemed quite strange to know that most of these people are relatives I have never met – and mostly never even heard of! They were busy comparing notes and discussing book progress.

The family in Tasmania dates from the 1840’s, when three brothers and their families came as assisted immigrants, from Somerset in England. A lot of surplus agricultural workers from Somerset fetched up in Van Diemans Land. As those early ancestors  bred prolifically, over five or six generations, there are now many,  many descendents! Apparently, a committee has been compiling a record of family members and a book is to be launched next April. The launch function will be somewhere in the Nile/Clarendon area, where the family first settled. We will still be on the island then, so I am interested in going to that.

I ordered a copy of the book. Also bought a photo of the property “Fern Hill”, originally called “Pretty Plains” – an early family home. Cousin S had some photos and research notes, and we talked for a while about her knowledge of the family. Apparently our branch of the family will not get much coverage in the book. The man who was doing the research and collating that information, has spat the dummy because the committee decided that marriage dates after 1900 are not going to be published, because some people will be embarrassed! He is a genealogical purist, it seems, and so has withheld all his information. So S is trying to provide what she can.

There has been a recent resurgence of interest in tracing family history in Tasmania. For a very long time, because of its convict history, Tasmanians seemed reluctant to delve back into the past. I am pleased to know that this is changing, as I think I am suddenly quite interested in researching the “roots” – of both the Tasmanian sides of my family.

We returned to Devonport the way we’d come – following the others as far as the Bass Highway, and then taking our time, looking at the scenery. The drive was lovely – superb views of the Western Tiers, and all greens and blues. John said it was very “English”.

John arranged with my uncle to play bowls with him at East Devonport, on Wednesday.

We got back to the van at 5pm, having driven 200kms. That’s quite a way in Tassie!


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1999 Travels October 23

SATURDAY 23 OCTOBER     DEVONPORT

After a beautifully calm crossing, we fronted up for breakfast at 7am. It was light continental style, which greatly disappointed John, as he had been looking forward to bacon and eggs!

It was announced that, due to daylight saving, and “technical problems” we were late, and would not dock until 10.30am. It was every bit of that! We stood on deck and watched the Mersey River mouth come into view, and then our short passage up the river to the terminal. We watched the docking. These guys can park a big boat more accurately than I can park a car!

It was a day of blue sky and sunshine – lovely. Devonport was looking good. I had forgotten the magic glimpses of distant blue mountains to be had from around the town.

Our vehicle deck was the last unloaded – the penalty for being early on board on the Melbourne side. It was 11.30am before we were called to go down to our vehicle deck. I found a $10 note on the floor near our rig – a good omen for this segment of our trip, I hope.

As soon as we drove off, had to go through quarantine inspection, and I had to hand over some garlic that I’d overlooked.

We drove across the Mersey River bridge, then followed the river side road around to the Mersey Bluff, at the western side of the river entrance. We had camped at the caravan park here before, after walking the Overland Track in 1992, and remembered it as having a pleasant outlook, and with the Lighthouse as a backdrop.

The office at the Mersey Bluff Caravan Park was closed, and there were no notices about checking in procedure. Another coupling also wanting to check in tried phoning the Park number, but only got through to an answering machine. John walked around for a while, checking out sites and looking for someone in authority. No luck.

I phoned the Vacation Village in East Devonport and was told that an en-suite site (all they had) would be $90 for a week, which sounded good. At least there was a live body in charge there!

As we were turning the rig around, an old crone came down the hill from…..somewhere……and asked if she could help us, as she was the manager. We said no – that we were sick of waiting, having been here for at least half an hour, and we were going elsewhere.

So we retraced our way, back over the river to East Devonport to the Vacation Village – only a few blocks from where we’d disembarked from the ferry. Paid our $90 and set up on our site. This was pleasant, with some trees and bush about. Our bathroom was good. The park was not very busy. There was a rig next to us, and a vacant site on the other side.

After set up, and having some lunch, we drove back over the river, to the central shops, to buy fresh fruit and vegetables. We had brought none over with us, of course. We found Coles and Roelf Vos (local supermarket group) open, but the other shops had all shut at midday, including the newsagent, where I had intended to buy papers. Tasmania was definitely behind the times, as far as commerce goes!

I phoned my Aunt M and then we drove to visit her. Their unit is only a few blocks from the town centre. My Uncle T was at bowls. Another one! We talked for a couple of hours. She told us of a family meeting/reunion of my father’s family, at Rosevale, tomorrow. We arranged to go, too. We would drive ourselves, following them and my cousin B. His sister S would be there too, coming up from Hobart. By sheer luck, this has been a timely happening – I am interested in the family, of which I know not much, and this is a good chance to meet relatives.

We went back to the van for a while. Had not adjusted to daylight saving – it was actually 7.30pm when we went out looking for a fish and chip shop. We were lucky and found a good one down by the Victoria Bridge, not far away. It was almost closing time! Their fish and chips were excellent.