This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels May 15

SATURDAY 15 MAY     WILPENA

We spent a quiet morning, reading the Saturday paper, which was available at the shop here.

I made a pea and potato soup, using up the tin of peas I have been trying to get rid of since we were in North Qld, last year. It was an emergency supply – we do not usually eat tinned peas.

After lunch, decided to go for a bike ride. Thought we’d tackle some of the Mawson Trail – a long distance trail for cyclists, similar to the Heysen Track for walkers. In places, they are one and the same, and this is the case from Wilpena, north towards Wilcolo/Bunyeroo.

The track was pretty rough in parts, with loose shale, precipitous gullies, and winding in amongst the trees. It required much concentration and lots of gear and brake work. I was pleased that I hadn’t risked bringing the camera.

I scraped my shins when I missed a gear change up out of a gully and the bike rolled back on me.

A bee flew into the back of my head, below my bike helmet, got tangled in my hair, and stung me! I wasn’t having a great day, at this point!

However, the ride was very scenic – when one had the chance to look. Yet again, it is getting away from other people that is part of the attraction. We reached almost to the Bunyeroo Gorge road.

We decided to return via the much easier management vehicle track, rather than stay on the worst of the gully and loose rock areas shared with the Heysen Trail. We thoroughly enjoyed that section of the ride – easy going, and we could look around. It came out at the old Wilpena Homestead, now unused, I think, but still looking quite substantial. Then we came out on the approach road to Wilpena and had to start watching out for cars again.

It was late afternoon when we got back to the van. We had ridden 18.2kms.

Tea was the pea soup – and it was very nice. It was followed by a chicken casserole, adapted and cooked in the electric frypan. That was pretty good, too.


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1999 Travels May 14

FRIDAY 14 MAY     WILPENA

We got up at a sensible hour, with the help of the alarm, and set off at 9am to drive to Port Augusta. We had things to do that required an urban centre.

We passed through Quorn, which looked a pretty place, and through the Pichi Richi Pass. We will have to explore these places properly, sometime.

We were passed by many Landrovers, going north, for a big Jamboree weekend at Blinman.

When we got into mobile phone range checked the phone and found a message from friend A, from Caramut.

We went to the bank in Port Augusta, to transfer money to pay for the shares John bought. This was the main reason for our visit. I got some photos developed and printed.

Being Friday, we had our fish and chips as lunch.

Went to Coles where I stocked up with lots of fresh vegetables and fruit, in particular.

Refuelled Truck – 68cpl. That is a lot cheaper than at Wilpena!

We drove over the main Port Augusta bridge, that takes the highway to the west and north, for old times’ sake. We walked it so many times in 1993, when we were stuck here for the best part of a week, while the Hilux had a broken axle repaired. Then we drove back across it!

On the way back to Hawker, overtook a Defender and an older Landrover County, obviously travelling together, and obviously Landrover aficionados. We talked with them on the CB – they are a husband and wife. Then we talked in person, when we all pulled into the Rest Area at Hawker. They are very experienced travellers – especially her. The Defender was pulling an offroad camper trailer. It was a fun encounter.

In discussion about our next move, as we were going along, we decided to give Arkaroola, in the northern Flinders, a miss this time. We have been there before, and whilst it is well worth visiting again, there is the lure of places we have not yet seen.

Back at Wilpena, I phoned home and asked P to send the mail on to Leigh Creek.

I phoned E and A. They wanted to tell us that they are interested in doing a Simpson Desert crossing with us – but next May/June. I am not sure that will suit us, though. They are going to visit family in Qld this year. E expressed an interest in returning down the Sandover  “Highway” – the unsealed route from NW Qld to Central Australia – as that is one way they haven’t been. I said we’d let them know about all that.

The campground has become very busy – it is a long weekend in SA.

Tea was tinned asparagus soup, some salad, and yoghurt.

We drove 342kms today, essentially just to visit the shops!


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1999 Travels May 13

THURSDAY 13 MAY    WILPENA

The day got off to a fairly slow start, after John stayed up really late, playing his game.

We decided to walk part of the Wilkawillina Gorge Track. The information about this walk made it seem interesting, and it was one we had not tackled in prior visits. We had seen the country around that area from a vantage point on the Skytrek drive. It is still within the general area of The Bunkers ranges.

If we’d had two vehicles, could have put one at each end of the walk through the gorge, and done a shuttle, to avoid retracing our steps. But we don’t – so decided to tackle the northern end of the walk, and do about half of the track – both ways!

While John was getting organized, I cooked up some potato for tonight’s tea, expecting that we might be a bit late back. Made lunch.

Drove back to the main road and turned north again. This time we stayed on the unsealed Blinman road, past the entrance to Willow Springs, and took the right fork – the road to Wirrealpa. About 40kms from Wilpena, found the track north to the Mt Billy Creek Trailhead, drove the 7kms to this and parked Truck.

We ate our lunch at the car park at the Trailhead, at the start of the gorge track. Spotted a spiny cheeked honey eater in some bush by the creek.

05-13-1999 02 Bunkers Ra from walk tk.jpg

The terrain and walk track, just after starting the Wilkawillina Gorge walk

We walked to the 4.2km mark, through interesting and varied terrain. There were some excellent waterholes in the Ten Mile Creek that goes through the gorge.

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Waterhole and bulrushes in Wilkawillina Gorge

In general terms, this eastern side of the Flinders is drier than around the Heysen Range and Wilpena, so there is mulga rather than the cypress pines of the country we were in yesterday.

05-13-1999 03 Mt Billy Ck

A dry section of Ten Mile Creek in Wilkawillina Gorge

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Arid slopes beside Wilkawillina Gorge – and dead mulga

The rocks in this area are a mix of sandstones and limestones – the latter more white than red. In one place we could see water ripple marks, made when this was deposited under an ancient lake or sea bed.

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Ripple patterns in limestone rock

At the 4.2km mark – we were following track notes, so we knew where we were – it was time to turn around and retrace our steps, to make it an 8.4km walk in total.

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Wilkawillina Gorge country

05-13-1999 09 late afternoon in Bunkers

Late afternoon on the Wilkawillina Gorge track

Before we left camp, I’d persuaded John to try walking in the HiTec boots that were Dad’s. I’d brought these with us to use myself. He found them comfortable – no problems with blisters in these. Dad would have been pleased!

It was just about dark by the time we got back to camp, having driven 97kms.

Tea was pumpkin soup, followed by salmon cakes.


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1999 Travels May 12

WEDNESDAY 12 MAY     WILPENA

The sky was blue again this morning. Sod’s Law! There was some cumulus cloud build up during the day, but it remained clear enough to see the stars at night. They are absolutely brilliant up here.

After breakfast, John did some share arranging, going to the phone to call our broker and buy a tech stock he likes, with the improbable name of Sausage Works. He used his “share” of the proceeds from the Telstra ones I sold.

He refuelled Truck – still 81cpl.

I cleaned the van out, made lunch, wiped the dust from yesterday from the interior Truck surfaces – there was lots of it!

We went for a drive up the Bunyeroo Valley. Drove back to the main road, turned north (the road is unsealed from this point)  and a few kms on, took the Bunyeroo Track to the left. We stopped at the Yanyanna old stock yards and huts and looked around, before continuing on.

05-12-1999 01 heysen range from stock yard and huts

Outlook at the old stock yards and huts – Yanyanna

This part of the Flinders has got to be the most scenic part of the whole area – there are superb, panoramic views from lookouts and road bends along the road to the Gorge.

05-12-1999 02 Bunyeroo panorama RHS

ABC and Heysen Ranges from a lookout on the Bunyeroo Gorge Track

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The Bunyeroo Gorge Track and the Heysen Range

We ate lunch down in the bottom of the valley, beside Bunyeroo Creek. Did some bird spotting.

John used the Radphone – which he’d arrranged to have connected again, from yesterday, to call both brother C and sister H. He was pleased that the HF radio seems to be working well. It was a good, clear connection. We will be relying on it more and more, now.

I was looking for the walking track along the Bunyeroo Gorge, and couldn’t find it. Turned out we were not far enough along – it was annoying. My map did not seem all  that accurate.

Eventually we drove along a bit further, parked Truck, and walked for an hour south along the Wilcolo Track. This was pleasant walking, initially beside a creek bed, then through an area of cypress pines. There were excellent view of the Heysen Range, to start.

05-12-1999 07 Bunyeroo Wilcolo walk.jpg

Cypress pines growing along the Wilcolo Track. Despite its width, there is no public vehicle access.

At the end of an hour we turned and retraced the way, and then the views of the ABC Range were great. As we walked, we saw kangaroos, goats and emus. Stopped periodically to look for birds. All up, we walked about 7kms.

05-12-1999 09 walk track bunyeroo wilcolo tk - st marys peak.jpg

Late afternoon on the Wilcolo Track

Drove back to Truck the way we had come. Got back to camp about 5.30pm. We drove 63kms today.

The hot shower was very welcome.

Tea was pumpkin soup, beef stroganoff with pasta.

John was not as tired tonight and sat up late playing his alpha centauri game. I went to bed quite early.


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1999 Travels May 11

TUESDAY 11 MAY     WILPENA

We needed to get a reasonably early start. Woke to a sky that was grey and cloudy – and which became more so as the day went on. It was a real pity that we did not have the clear and sunny weather of the past few days, for today.

We drove to Willow Springs, paid, and collected the key about 9.30 am. All the information says that at least six hours must be allowed to do the circuit. They will not issue a key after 10.30am.

The charge for a vehicle to do the Trek is $30 – but we only paid $25, due to “local connections”.

We received a nicely presented folder with information and track notes. The drive is about 80kms; there were 40 points of interest marked on the map. Some of these related to specific vegetation and natural features like springs, some were to do with the station operations, like bores and gates. We had no trouble following the map and finding our way.

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Willow Springs

Our first stop was at the Willow Springs, through the Gorge, where we looked for birds, admired the scenery – and watched sheep in the distance playing at mountain goats!

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Bullock Bush grazed up to head height by stock

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Zebra Finches near Moxans Hut

We had a sausage and bread BBQ lunch in a dry creek bed past Moxans Hut, which we’d seen the other day. It was built in the late 1800’s and housed the station worker until the 1960’s. He must have liked solitude! John enjoyed doing the fire lighting and BBQ thing. It was all very pleasant, apart from there being lots of flies. We made sure the little cooking fire was put out with some of the water we carry.

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Lunch place

 

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Old river red gums – so typical of the Flinders Ranges

We had initially proceeded east from the station homestead, then north, travelling parallel with ranges on each side. Then we reached the northern most point of the Trek and where we were advised that 4WD must be engaged. This is easy on the Defender, as it is just a lever and one does not have to worry about getting out and messing with wheel hubs.

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The Bunkers

From this point the going was steep in places, very twisty, and there were some loose surfaces. But we felt quite safe, throughout, and did not think that it was actually all that difficult to drive. There were incredible views as we climbed.

05-11-1999 12 looking back across bunkers trk.jpg

The track rising – looking back the way we have come

 

05-11-1999 15 Skytrek view to NE.jpg

Sky Trek track winding down over the ridges, into the distance

The rise up to Mt Caernarvon (920metres) was steady and steep, but the ridge was quite broad, so it seemed very secure. It was a bit hard to believe that we had driven to the top of the second highest peak in SA!

05-11-1999 19 Over Loves Mine Ra to Heysen Ra & St Marys Pk.jpg

From Mt Caernarvon, looking over Loves Mine Range, towards St Marys Peak

We parked beside the track – just in case there was someone coming behind us – though we had not seen anyone else all day. At the cairn on top of Mt Caernarvon, signed the record book that is kept in a tin there. Wandered about a bit, took photos.

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Signing the Visitors Book on top of Mt Caernarvon

On the top of the ridge there were stands of grass trees, which were quite dramatic with the sky as background.

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Grass trees near the summit of Mt Caernarvon

By the time we were coming down the ridge – steep in places, but not scarily so – it was 4.30pm, and the light for taking photos was getting dull. We stopped at the homestead to turn in the key.

The Skytrek was really worth doing, and worth the money. It was an exhilarating day. We will remain grateful to J and U for introducing us to it – I doubt we would have known anything about it without their help.

05-11-1999 11 Skytrek track winding away.jpg

Sky Trek – the track winding over the closer ridges, then just seen climbing over a far saddle

We got back to the van at 5.30, having driven 111kms.

We sat in Truck, listening to the news, until 6.15. Also reported ourselves into the 4WD Radio Network Adelaide Base, and listened to their sched session for a while. We drank beer and ate crisps during our radio session.

Then we went for showers and had a light tea: biscuits, cheese and apples.

After tea, we both felt really exhausted – and decided that it had been a really tiring day, after all. We both crawled into bed at 8.45pm!  And slept for twelve hours!

It was a warmer night than previous ones, due to the cloud cover. There were a few spits of rain on the roof during the night.


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1999 Travels May 10

MONDAY 10 MAY     WILPENA

John wanted a rest day, today, since we have been active every day since getting here.

It was another beautiful blue sky day. Yesterday, U had commented on the unusual clarity of the air and the views – so it is not always like that, here.

I did the washing.

Basically we just lazed around for much of the day. Read some accumulated newspapers and some travel guides. I did some knitting.

I walked to the office and paid for another week’s accommodation here. There is still so much that we want to do.

After lunch, we went for a bike ride, as far as the old hut and the Cazneaux Tree. We detoured to the solar farm lookout. The solar farm consists of rows of solar panels generating electricity that can be used at Wilpena, which is not on the main power grid, and has relied on its own diesel generators. The SA Govt had the solar farm installed, to demonstrate what can be done with this technology. It only started operating a few months ago. The rows of panels are in a slight valley, so they are not really noticeable unless one goes to the lookout. The experimental work that is being done on a solar power supply, here, is impressive. The way of the future?

Our 15.5km bike ride was very enjoyable – such a great setting for cycling.

The camp area was nice and peaceful in the morning, but by mid afternoon it was filled with vans.

John went to the public phone at the office (no mobile reception here) to make some calls. He contacted our sharebroker to check on some share prices. Phoned Hayman Reece to ask about the advisability of taking off the weight distribution bars on rough roads – we should! He also phoned and booked us to do the SkyTrek tomorrow.

A park worker, whom John had encountered somewhere about the place, came by after work to talk to John about web sites and his plans to set up a business offering abseiling and climbing, here. He did not seem to have much idea, though, about things like liability insurance, so I think he has a lot of learning to do yet.

Tea was late – due to our visitor. Pumpkin soup, Hawaiian tofu stir fry and rice – was ok.

We are having a good run of early nights – must be the unpolluted air here.


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1999 Travels May 9

SUNDAY 9 MAY     WILPENA

As we had arranged yesterday, J and U arrived at our camp about 9.30. They inspected the van and we had a cuppa.

We then went in their Nissan onto nearby Willow Springs property, to drive part of the Sky Trek track there. They had been unable to contact the owners, who are their friends, to get the keys to do the full track.

Sky Trek is a drive for 4WD vehicles that these people have developed on their property, following station tracks, those made in earlier times by miners, and goat shooters, and tracks they have formed to link them up. It has been open for about four years. It is something different and hence J and U wanted us to see it.

Although, without the gate key, we could not drive the full Skytrek circuit, we were still able to go a long way on the station tracks that J and U know.

05-09-1999 09 Skytrek track & Bunkers.jpg

Driving track on Willow Springs

The scenery was brilliant – creek lines, gorges, great old river red gum trees, and the rugged, photogenic Bunkers Range as backdrop.

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The Bunkers Range

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Mt Chambers – driving track below

We had a BBQ lunch in a dry creek bed, near an old shepherd’s hut. Both the setting and the meal were great. My meal contributions were steaks and salad. J bought some home made bread, a cake, and red wine. It was quite a party, in a superb setting, and with only us there.

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This is the place for a picnic

 

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Old Moxon’s Hut – constructed of local logs

fter lunch we drove some more tracks, including up a hill that gave an excellent lookout over the ranges.

05-09-1999 08 Pinnacle Ranges Skytrek track

In the Bunkers

As a finale, they drove us to Skull Rock – up an old barites mine track, which was steep and rough, with some decent drops in places – not my favourite sort of road! We walked for ten minutes from where U parked, to get to where we could see the Skull. It was a very different landform – a “flow” of calcium carbonate through a narrow gap in the normal rocks of the area. It has been weathered and the colour and hollows on the surface do rather suggest a skull.

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Skull Rock

It was dark by the time we got back to Wilpena, after a great day out.

We promised to stay in touch. U and I had done some reminiscing, while we were going along, about the Tasmanian trip we’d done in 1969/70, with J and B. U suggested we should have a reunion with them and a showing of all of our slides from that trip – sometime in the future – at Loxton, maybe, as it is central to us all.

After the substantial lunch, we only needed a light tea: a tin of soup, toasted cheese.

Today was such a great day that we decided to buy a Sky Trek pass and drive the full route, ourselves, before we leave here.


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1999 Travels May 8

SATURDAY 8 MAY     WILPENA

We left at 10.30 to drive in to Hawker, to meet my friends. We went to J and U’s home, where we received a warm welcome. U was still totally recognizable, even after all these years. Time has been kind to him.

We had coffee there and then went with them to the Sports Club, where they had duties. We chatted there, in between U serving at the bar and J organizing food.

We bought ourselves a pasty each at the Club, for lunch.

In the afternoon had a game of bowls with them – it was a fun game and we were soundly beaten! Competitive people, those! The green was not the greatest – it chopped the bowls about a bit.

J and U drove the Canning Stock Route in ’95 and are going to the Kimberley this year. They hope to go to Cape York next year. I mentioned that if they were looking for extra company for trips to remote areas – especially if they were doing the Canning again – that we would be interested. They have a Nissan Patrol and a new offroad camper trailer.

We drove back from Hawker in the dark, with our eyes straining for sheep and kangaroos on the road.

Tea was light: packet soup, toast with cheese and sardines.

In all, it was a very enjoyable day.


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1999 Travels May 7

FRIDAY 7 MAY     WILPENA

We slept late. I was a little stiff when I got up, but it wore off. John’s feet were sore.

After breakfast, I walked to the phone box and phoned U, at Hawker. He remembered me with no problem, even after about thirty years! He seemed pleased to hear from me. We will see them tomorrow.

Packed lunch, refuelled Truck – 81cpl here! Then went driving, which was all we felt up to.

Our first destination was Sacred Canyon, only about 10kms from Wilpena. We hadn’t been here before. Its main interest is aboriginal rock engravings, supposed to be quite old. The drive in was an attractive one – on an unsealed road.

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The track to Sacred Canyon

Along the track we came across a very unusual red gum tree, which was growing in two parts. Somehow a split had developed in the base of the tree and that became quite a large gap between the two parts.

05-07-1999 04 split gum in sacred canyon

The split red gum on the track to Sacred Canyon

The short bit of walking we did there was enjoyable. We were not particularly impressed with the stone engravings. As the surroundings were so pleasant, we ate lunch there.

05-07-1999 05 john in sacred canyon

Walking in Sacred Canyon

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Aboriginal intaglio rock engravings at Sacred Canyon

Back to the main road and then north on the Blinman road to firstly, Hucks Lookout and then, a bit further on, Stokes Hill Lookout. The air here is so clear that the scenery really stands out. The scenery of the Flinders Ranges is all so spectacular that, after a while, only the extra special parts make an impression! One can certainly use up a lot of film here!

05-07-1999 09 Heysen Range with Wilpena entry centre.jpg

The Heysen Range from Hucks Lookout. The tallest peak is St Marys Peak. To the left of the photo , at the lowest part of the Range, is the dark shadow of Wilpena Gap

Another old red gum tree that made a great impression on us was the Cazneaux Tree, not far from Wilpena. It was pictured, in the 1930’s, by the photographer Cazneaux. He wrote about how, for him, it typified the Spirit of Endurance. The photograph became famous and, thus, so did the tree. It is now listed on the National Trust’s Significant Tree Registry. Qantas later used Cazneaux’s tree-inspired words as a slogan on its planes. The old tree has endured much more, since the 1930’s photo, and is now very much showing its age and the effects of drought and fire – but still endures on! With its superb backdrop of the ranges, it really is something special.

05-07-1999 02 another view of cazneux tree

The Cazneaux Tree, with its dramatic range backdrop

05-07-1999 01 cazneux tree spirit of endurance

The Spirit of Endurance – the Cazneaux Tree

From the lookouts, we continued on the Blinman road, past Oraparinna, then turned west and drove to Brachina Gorge . At its eastern end, where we stopped to look about, saw some elegant parrots and a yellow footed rock wallaby.

By now, it was too late to linger in the gorge, so we drove through it, much of the way actually in the dry creek bed, between the gorge walls. Followed the gravel road across the flat plains west of the range, to the Leigh Creek road, then came south on the bitumen to where the unsealed Moralana Scenic Route cuts through, south of Wilpena Pound, and meets the Wilpena road south of Rawnsley Park. And so back to camp.

The sunset over the Elder Range, as we came along the Moralana Route, was magnificent.

05-07-1999 10 sunset over elder range from moralana rd.jpg

Sunset over the Elder Range

It was well and truly dark by the time we got back to the van. We hadn’t really intended for this to turn into such a long day, but one thing led to another. We ended up driving 199kms.

Tea was late: fries with frozen “oven bake” fish – cooked in the electric frypan.

Another cold night; another early to bed, after another tiring but great day.


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1999 Travels May 6

THURSDAY 6 MAY      WILPENA

Slept in somewhat. The early morning was a bit chilly, and the campground was remarkably quiet.

It became a pleasant, warm, blue sky day.

To celebrate being back at Wilpena, we decided to tackle the walk to Bridle Gap, which traverses the floor of the Pound, to the rim that is its western edge. Although Wilpena Pound appears almost like a crater, from the air, it is actually a high valley between two ranges – geosynclines – that were pushed up by earth movements long ago. The southern end of the valley is blocked by another section of range – Rawnsley Bluff, thus creating the crater effect. At the northern end of the Pound, there is just a drop off to the levels below. Because a layer ofvolcanic debris was found between layers of sedimentary rock, it was at one time assumed that Wilpena was a crater. Recently, it has been discovered that the volcanic debris actually comes from the Gawler Ranges, a long way to the west, and was blown here by the force of the explosion when an asteroid or meteorite hit the Gawler Ranges, forming Lake Acraman in the process.

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The geology of the Wilpena area

We set out on the walk at 10.30am. It is part of the Heysen Trail, a 1200km long walk trail that starts at the coast south of Adelaide, and ends at the Parachilna Gorge, just north of here.

Walked from the campground to the Pound entrance, following Wilpena Creek through the narrow Wilpena Gap that is the entrance. The only other ways into the Pound are via the walking track down from the flank of St Mary’s Peak, to the north, or through the Bridle Gap, which was supposed to be able to be accessed by a skilled horse rider – hence the name.

05-06-1999 Wilpena from Wangarra LO 92 pic to show.jpg

This photo I took in ’92 shows the Wilpena Creek and Gap, looking back towards Wilpena Resort, in the trees just through the Gap

It was about 2kms to walk from the campground to the end of the road, where the shuttle bus deposits those who take it. Then the track continues to follow the creek through the gap. It is a really pretty walk. A bit over a km from the road end, there is the Hills Homestead. For a few years from 1899, the Hill family attempted to grow wheat in the Pound. Their home has been restored from near derelict.

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The Hills Homestead by Wilpena Gap

The walk across the Pound floor is a fairly easy one, though one must watch their footing in places where there are rocks. Parts were open, with grass amidst small rocks, other parts were through scrub. Every so often there have been bushfires in the Pound, and scrubby regrowth results from  that. There was a bit of a climb up to the edge of the rim at Bridle Gap.

05-06-1999  The Pound from Wangarra LO. Dick Nob to left. 92 pic for contrast.jpg

Where we are walking to – the Pound floor with Bridle Gap and Dicks Nob in the left distance, and the Elder Range at the very back

We did some bird spotting along the way – white backed swallow, the Port Lincoln Ringneck parrot, and a red capped robin.

By 1.30pm, we were eating our lunch at Bridle Gap, with a superb view out over to the Elder Range.

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The Elder Range from Bridle Gap

After lunch and just relaxing high up on our perch, we retraced our way back across the Pound.

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Our very scenic lunch spot

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St Marys Peak, across the Pound, from Bridle Gap

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Heading off on the long walk back across the Pound

05-06-1999 09 late afternoon inside the pound

Late afternoon in Wilpena Pound

On the way back, John developed blisters under the toes on both feet, so he was feeling rather miserable by the time we were back at the Hills Homestead. There were some people at the hut, who were walking back to catch the shuttle bus back to the resort, so we did that too. It cost us $2 each, for the one way trip, but saved the last 2kms of walking on the blisters. It was fortunate that John had taken a little money with him.

We walked about 20.8kms altogether and his hips managed it well. I certainly appreciated the long, warm shower I had. Walking back from the shower, I encountered some people who had been camped near us at Mildura. They are going up St Mary’s Peak tomorrow – it is a big walk and climb. John did it in ’92; I squibbed out of the final bit, due to not liking heights.

John threaded cotton through his blisters to dry them out. I had to help with some he couldn’t reach – yukky! They are certainly big blisters. He needs new walking boots, I think – a bit bigger.

Tea was the last of the vegie soup, creamy paprika chicken and rice, which was nice and easy to make – I was not feeling much like any effort by now!

It was another cold night, once the sun set.

We had a very early night!