This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels July 13

TUESDAY 13 JULY     GEMTREE

A camp based day. I read and sewed. John played on his computer.

John emptied our spare 25 litre diesel jerry can into the fuel tank.

We did the Nature Walk again, at a leisurely pace, and looked at some of the golf course they have here, for guests. There has been quite an effort made with that.

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Part of the Gemtree golf course

Saw more of the interesting mulga ant nests. They use the fallen debris from mulga trees to make the outer lining of the levee bank around the nest entrance, so the ground around the nest has been fairly effectively cleared by their scavenging. We have not seen any actual ants but assume they are a fair size, like about bull ant size.

07-13-1999 some mulga ant nests Gemtree.jpg

Mulga ant nests – they are sizeable mounds

Tea was soup and fried rice.

The fuel pump was still broken. The managers said they would give us 20 litres from their generator’s tank if we need it to get to Alice on Friday – so that frees us to do something further afield tomorrow. Yet again, staying longer than the norm, and being genuinely interested in exploring the place, has paid dividends.


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1999 Travels July 12

MONDAY 12 JULY     GEMTREE

We had a lazy morning just sitting outside in the shade of the awning, reading.

After lunch, drove back to the Mud Tank zircon fields.

We tried further along on the flats, from where we were the other day, but found we didn’t have enough washing gear or water. There seemed to be a lot of clay sticking to the wash here, which made getting it clean enough difficult.  We did not find anything exciting, but John did get some tips from people working nearby.

I used the green rubber gloves we carry “in case”, today, to try to protect my fingernails a bit. Scrabbling around in stones is not kind to them. Found they turned my hands bright green – and it did not all wash off later! Lucky that we are not too “upmarket”, here.

We drove around and explored the Zircon Hill area, near the vermiculite mine. Drove 41kms today.

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The Strangways Range, seen from Gemtree

Tea was soup, oven baked frozen fish and French fries.

The fuel bowser is still out of action. We will need to conserve fuel, since we have to go to Alice on Friday, and they don’t know when it will be fixed. This is a vindication of John’s policy of always carrying 25 litres of fuel, in the plastic jerrycan in Truck. One cannot always rely on fuel being available, and where there is only one outlet for some distance this can create problems. Bowsers break down. The fuel delivery truck is held up. An unexpectedly large number of travellers require fuel. These things happen.


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1999 Travels July 11

SUNDAY 11 JULY     GEMTREE

I did washing this morning, after breakfast, while John made potato bread – six small rolls and a loaf. We had the rolls for lunch.

After that, went for a drive to do a bit more exploring of the area around the garnet fields.

We followed the same route as yesterday, but instead of turning off the track into the little creek bed, continued on south, towards the back of the fields, then looped around. We saw some more areas of diggings and saw some people working there. In some places there  were little flakes of garnet on the ground.

We found a hill area with some great views; I took some photos there.

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Beautiful country out in the FA9 area

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Mt Riddock. The FA9 area is on Mt Riddock Station

We did not do any fossicking today – just went for the drive! Covered 96kms. As we came back in past the Office area and fuel pumps, noticed that there was a sign attached to the diesel pump – that it was out of order. That is bad luck for passers-by, who might be relying on Gemtree to get fuel to continue on to Alice Springs!

Tea was pea and ham soup, which was very nice, followed by sausages, bread and some vegetables.

I wanted to phone K to tell him to send mail so we can pick it up next Friday, in Alice. There was a queue for the phone and I had to wait for ages. We did not have a lengthy conversation, because of the cost and the people waiting behind me, so back at the van, I started a letter to him.


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1999 Travels July 10

SATURDAY 10 JULY     GEMTREE

We decided that today we would try looking for garnets – a red stone that can be cut to resemble a ruby. There is a designated fossicking area – FA9 – to the west of here. This was shown on the map that came with our fossicking licences.

07-19-1999 garnet areas

Map showing Fossicking Area 9

Garnet hunting appealed because they are found by dry sieving dirt and gravel, thus one does not have to carry water and washing tubs – or get wet and muddy!

Drove east on the Plenty Highway – unsealed after Gemtree – for about 35kms, then turned south and tried to align the map we had with the reality on the ground. As with other fossicking places we have been to, the reality is that there is a maze of tracks that are not on the maps!

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The Plenty Highway east of Gemtree, and the Harts Ranges

We found a narrow, short, dry creek valley that looked pretty dug over. There had clearly been people camped there recently. Regardless, decided to have a go and actually found garnets.

John dug and I sieved. I spent a lot of time picking out small, rough pieces that were crystallized on the outside – but eventually realized that it was the bits that looked like red glass that we actually wanted!

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The well-equipped garnet hunter!

John found a pocket in the creek bed that did not seem to have been dug before, and that was productive.

There were many annoying bush flies and we had to resort to the fly nets bought at Alice Springs. It was a challenge to eat lunch without eating flies too! Apart from the flies, it was quite pleasant, beavering away in the creek bed.

We only did about four hours’ work and got a half fruit tin full, to take back to camp for proper sorting.

We drove 87kms today, there and back to the garnet area.

07-10-1999 01 scene at FA9 garnet area

The country around the FA9 garnet fossicking area

Back at camp, after cleaning up, I made zucchini slice for tea. It was time to use up some of the ageing zucchini we had. I thought we’d have some left for lunch tomorrow, but we were hungry after all the work, and ate the lot. I also made pea and ham soup, but that was not done until late – it will be for the next few days.

John has revived his Alpha Centauri computer game and has been playing it until the power goes off and then his laptop battery gets low. It is all over by 11pm – a natural curb to his enthusiasm! He is reading too – no TV out here.


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1999 Travels July 9

FRIDAY 9 JULY     GEMTREE

It is so nice to wake up “in the bush”, as opposed to the urban-ness of the conventional caravan park. So far, I really love this place.

We had a camp-based day.

John made a shaker stand for the gem sieve – very clever – and a big sieve tray, like we saw at Rubyvale. The materials were bought in Alice Springs, before we left there. He felt a great sense of achievement. Looks like we will be getting serious about these gemstones!

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John making a shaker stand – to make life easier on the back

07-09-1999 John making fossicking gear Gemtree.jpg

A large sieving tray in the making – this will increase the amount of dirt we move

I watched his work, and read.

I made steak and kidney stew for tea, with suet dumplings (from a suet mix packet) – much to John’s delight.


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1999 Travels July 8

THURSDAY 8 JULY     GEMTREE

We had to be at the Office for our tour by 8.45, so it was up at 7.30 for us.

The fossicking tour involved a convoy drive out to the zircon field, so we drove Truck to the Office. There was a limit of eight vehicles for the tour.

We had to line up at the Office to pick up our equipment for mining – sieves and containers of water. The Gemtree operators have “permanent” digging areas reserved at the Mud Tank Zircon Fields, about a 15km drive away. We convoyed east on the Plenty Highway for about 8kms, then turned south and followed a pretty good dirt track south for about 7kms.

We gathered around and were shown what to do: dig dirt and gravel, dry sieve, then wet sieve twice, with sieves of two different coarseness. The zircons are found in gravel layers, not too far down, it seems. There is also a lot of apetite – a yellow/green coloured stone that is soft and of little use. Just a distraction. The zircon is of variable colour – mostly a pinky brown. We were told that it cuts, or facets, like diamonds.

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Learning about zircon fossicking at Mud Tank

There were several partly dug holes in the Gemtree area, with big sieves set up already. We went to work in “our” hole. We seemed to find quite a few pieces, but most looked flawed and cracked.

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Checking out a stone to see if it is worth having – sunlight helps!

After we had worked through the morning, the Gemtree people departed, but we were allowed to keep going if we wished, with the proviso that their gear be returned when we went back.

We ate a very quick lunch that we’d brought with us, then kept working until 3pm. It was quite warm out on the diggings, with no wind of any note. Maybe winter in Central Australia is over?

07-08-1999 wendy learning about zircons

A sieve full of gravel ready for washing. This is not a clean pastime!

Before leaving, we did a quick driving explore of the diggings. There were several lots of fossickers camping out at the diggings. But there are no facilities or water out there, so it is rough camping. We decided it was much better to be at Gemtree!

There is an active open cut mine encroaching on the zircon field, where they are mining vermiculite for building with and for potting mix. Hope it doesn’t totally take over the diggings!

Back at Gemtree, we returned the gear and took our stones in to the shop, for sorting. That service is part of the tour. We had four stones worth cutting – 3x4mm and a 4.5mm one. They seemed to think that was OK.

Then we hit the showers, to clean off the dirt. It is a very dusty and muddy pastime, fossicking here. The showers were lovely and warm and most welcome.

We had the last of the vegie soup for tea, followed by pizzas that I assembled on big rounds of Lebanese bread: one potato and garlic and one tomato, capsicum, ham, olives and cheese. Very nice they were, too.

We sat out again, after tea, by the fire, star watching for a while, then had an early night – we were tired! The silence at night, out here, is wonderful.


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1999 Travels July 7

WEDNESDAY 7 JULY   ALICE SPRINGS TO GEMTREE   151kms

We were up at 7.45 and away at 9.45. Not bad, as John had a lot of stuff around our camp and still to pack into Truck. Plus, we dawdled a bit over breakfast. I ended up doing quite a bit of the outside pack up, to help speed things along. It does not usually take very long to pack the inside – most loose things from surfaces go on the bed, and I now have a system for where everything goes. The electric jug and dishwashing items go in the sink, with the cutting board. Then I put the securing screw in the bottom corner of the fridge, drop the poptop and that is my work done!

We were trying unsuccessfully, to contact our real estate agent, yesterday and today, regarding the new tenant for the unit, but not long after leaving Alice Springs, we were out of mobile range.

It is good to be on the move again.

Some 30kms north of Alice Springs, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. Again! Is it my imagination, or does it seem hotter today, already?

07-07-1999 tropic of capricorn

Truck with its nose at the Tropic of Capricorn

It was an interesting drive to the north on the highway – always hills and ranges somewhere to look at. Once we turned east, onto the Plenty Highway, there were ranges ahead and on our right. The road was sealed, all the way to Gemtree, although the Plenty Highway section  was mostly just a single width strip of bitumen.

Just after we crossed the shallow dip/floodway that is the usually dry Gillen Creek, was the entrance to Gemtree campground. The entrance roadway wound around, past a large dam, with water, and then on to the office and reception building. It was a more substantial place than I’d been expecting, not nearly as rustic or rundown.

Gemtree’s weekly rate is $107 for our powered site – not cheap, but it seems a pleasant place. The managers are very jovial. They told us they have allocated us one of their best sites – number 33. We booked onto their zircon fossicking trip, for tomorrow, and that cost another $40.

Found that our site was in between two clumps of mulga, so there was some sideways shade. All the campground is red earth – no water to promote grass. out here.  It is very attractive, though, with clumps of mulga about the place and quite a bit of shade, and interesting outlooks to surrounding ranges.

We have our own tap that we can connect to, for washing water and the like. Because we have the dual tap set up at our sink, we can still pump water from our van tanks for drinking. The power comes from their generator, which does not run from 10.30pm till 7am; we will still have lights from our battery then, though. There is no site on one side of us, and the one on the other side is a fair distance from us – so all very nice. We have a fire pit and BBQ plate, shared with a few other sites, in a sort of circle, on the far side of a couple of mulga trees. They supply firewood, which we can gather from a large central heap. I guess that stops campers from denuding their trees.

When I went to explore the ablutions, found them adequate, somewhat rustic and very clean. There is a wood fuelled “donkey” hot water service, which means rather variable temperature hot water. They encourage campers to keep an eye on this, in passing, and to stick in a piece of wood if the fire seems too low.

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The Donkey – hot water heater. The stack of mulga logs beside it shows the typically dark centre of this timber.

Set up camp, had late lunch, then set out to do the camp’s Nature Walk, which is a couple of kms long. It took in an area behind the campground and along Gillen Creek and was interesting. Trees were identified. Saw the holes and mounds made by the mulga ants at the entrance to their nest, which we had not seen before; they thatch them on the outside to make them more erosion proof. I picked up some blue coloured parrot feathers to add to the feather collection that seems to be happening.

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Mulga ant nest

It was almost dark by the time we got back from our walk.

John lit a fire in our pit for heating water – to save our gas and because the thought of a campfire on the chilly nights was a pleasant one.

Tea was soup, cold roast chicken and vegetables.

After tea sat round the fire, looking at the myriad of really bright stars. It was not too cold.

07-07-1999 to gemtree

The route to Gemtree, which is in the rugged Harts Ranges


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1999 Travels July 6

TUESDAY 6 JULY     ALICE SPRINGS

Truck had to be at the Landrover dealership at 8.15am, for its service. So, it was an unusually early start for us. It meant a day to be spent around the town centre, as it was a bit far to walk back to the caravan park, then return. The dealership is out in the industrial area, to the north of town.

Walking back towards the main part of town, in the early morning sunshine was quite pleasant, although it was still chilly.

We meandered along, looking in car yards and other businesses that interested John. Every time he stopped to look at something, I read – I was trying to finish a library book before returning it.

We had a really thorough look through The Residency – a house that dates from 1928, with a somewhat complex history. From 1926 to 1931, this southern section was a region independent from the rest of the NT, so the Residency was built as a home for the Administrator. Then, when the NT was run as one area, it housed the Assistant Administrator, from 1931 to 1942. At this time, it was taken over by the NT Administrator, a refugee from the bombing of Darwin, until 1945. After that time various officials lived there, until relatively recently. In 1963, renovations were done before the Queen and Prince Phillip stayed for two nights. Extra bathrooms were put in for them! I guess there were no posh hotels in Alice Springs then, but they must have found The Residency rather basic, compared to their usual accommodation.

I found The Residency really interesting. The building seemed a sensible design – something that was not always the case in our earlier times. It is made from cement and sand bricks that were made on site, although they are patterned to look like stone. The roof is corrugated iron. It has big, overhung verandas and a central large breezeway that is big enough to use as a living room. Rooms open off this to each side. Floors are cement, with lino covering.

According to information in the place, Prince Charles contracted gastro after a visit to Alice Springs – from eating chicken or seafood in aspic! Prince Charles and Diana visited – there was much emphasis in the information on how she realized here, the intrusive nature of her public. I wonder if there are many monarchists in Alice Springs?

Then we walked around the town centre. At the Information Centre, bought fossicking licences. I returned my library books. John used the internet at the Library to send S an email.

Browsed in some of the aboriginal art galleries.

Went to a hardware shop where John bought some components for mining gear that he wants to make. I bought a large enamel mug to replace the current small and stained plastic one.

In amongst all that, we had Red Rooster take away for lunch.

Truck was eventually ready when we phoned – quite late in the day. So we walked back to Landrover. They had found a leaking hose, and a radiator hose that was on the wrong way – from the last service! They’d fixed that. But they have to get in the replacement for the leaking hose, so we had to book in for Friday 16, to have that fitted. They also said there was a bit of oozing at the back of the sump – not enough original packing there, or something. That was just noted, with no suggestion of a remedy. It is a busy dealership, but small. There is much demand for the new Defenders, they say. Can’t get one in Alice Springs before Xmas. And, of course, one has to book at least a week ahead for work to be done.

So – we will have to come back to Alice Springs.

Refuelled Truck – 81cpl – at the same servo where we get the discount.

Back at the van, we did some packing up. Then John realized that he was using my keys, and couldn’t find his own. He raced off back to Landrover. Sure enough, they were there! It was a good thing he discovered this in business hours – just!

Tea was rather late after all this, as I had a chook to roast, and vegies. We didn’t eat till 7.30pm.


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1999 Travels July 5

MONDAY 5 JULY     ALICE SPRINGS

Thought we’d need a quiet day, today, though the muscles and bottom are not as sore as I expected.

We did a big supermarket shop, to prepare for a week, maybe two, out at Gemtree. This is a caravan park and camping ground, some 150kms north east of Alice Springs, on the Plenty Highway, which runs east to Qld. The rationale for the caravan park here is the nearby Mud Tank Zircon fossicking area. While some fossickers rough camp on the actual field, there are no facilities there. Gemtree provides the promise of some creature comforts. We hope to find some zircons.

Picked up the mail from the Post Office and sorted it. There were two letters for John from sister H, but no personal ones for me. It is always a bit of a let down when that happens. There was a postcard from H and C, from India; they are up high in the Himalayas.

I completed some share paperwork and we went back to the Post Office to mail it off.

Bought a Territorian Lottery ticket – these have a big prize. Maybe……..

I collected the most recent film, put in earlier for processing. The Kodak place here does a good job.

Back at camp, John filled the van’s water tanks. There is only bore water out at Gemtree and they ask travellers to bring their own potable water.

I will be quite happy to leave Alice Springs, as I am feeling quite bored after three weeks here. It was too long. Two weeks would have been better, though the time did allow us to hide away from the really cold weather spell.

Tea was soup, lamb chops with vegies.


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1999 Travels July 4

SUNDAY 4 JULY     ALICE SPRINGS

This is the day of reckoning – we will do the much talked about and deferred bike ride out to Simpsons Gap. This sealed bike path goes for 17kms, from Flynn’s Grave, on Larapinta Drive, 7kms from the city centre, to the car park at Simpsons Gap. It provides a chance to cycle safely, away from road traffic, through the beautiful, arid environments of the Western MacDonnells.

We put the bike rack and bikes on the back of Truck and drove as far as the car park of the Desert Park, leaving Truck parked there. We thought this was a pretty secure place and better than just out by Flynn’s Grave, but it added 2kms each way to our ride.

It was a lovely, sunny day, not too hot. The nasty cold wind was not blowing. This had caused us to put off the ride on some previous days.

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The trusty steeds!

The bike track was excellent and wide enough for us to ride side by side. It was gently undulating in parts, with some sharp bends. Each km is marked and there are information signs along the way.

I took the small camera and looked forward to seeing the photos taken along the way.

We side tracked to The Knoll and climbed up it for the view. This added another km to the ride. It was one of several pretty places where picnic tables have been set up.

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The view to the west from the bike path

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This outlook fits just to the right hand side of the photo above it

Some of the iconic Central Australian ghost gums along the way featured unusual and contorted shapes. We were intrigued by one that had a burl effect on its side, with a hole in the centre, which we assumed would be attractive to nesting birds.

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We wondered how this was formed on the tree?

07-04-1999 tree with shape

It was a really large and old ghost gum tree

We stopped a couple of times more, for rests and photos.

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Rest and refuel

We ate our late lunch at Simpsons Gap, which was very crowded with picnicking families. One of the lovely things about the ride along the bike path was the relatively few other people on it. Given that it was a Sunday, this rather surprised us.

It was an easy ride out to Simpsons Gap, but harder going back. A breeze had sprung up – and it was a head breeze, and quite pronounced in places.  Our bottoms were getting sore enough to be looking forward to the end of the ride, too.

07-04-1999 cycle to simpsons gap

A great day for cycling on an excellent bike path

We were glad to see Truck, and pleased we hadn’t set off from the caravan park, as we had considered! The extra fiddle of getting the bike rack onto Truck had definitely been worth it. As it was, according to the bike speedo, we had ridden 42kms. Quite long enough. It is a while since we have been for a ride and this would have to be one of the most panoramic bike paths in the nation. It was a most enjoyable day.

07-04-1999 simpsons gap bike path

The bike path route

John decided that he wanted a fry up for tea, so a quick visit to the supermarket was needed on the way back to camp.

Then we hit the showers – blissful.

Tea was soup, then sausages, bacon, egg, toast, mushrooms.

Tomorrow, I expect there will be a few parts of us that complain!