This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 17

SUNDAY 17 SEPTEMBER     KARRATHA

Very hot day. It reached about 36 degrees!

John rigged up a shadecloth shelter across the worst sun angle, at the back of the van, to try to keep it a bit cooler.

09-13-2000 camp karratha.jpg

Our Karratha camp, with shadecloth shelter

Watched some Olympics on TV.

After lunch, we went for a drive to the nearby town of Dampier. This was built in the 1960’s to be an export port for iron ore from the Pilbara Hamersley Mines, further inland. Because of the landforms, there was not room to expand Dampier, when subsequent development began to occur, which was why Karratha was then built.

We travelled past salt lakes and salt works, which occupied much of the approach to Dampier.

10-05-2000 salt works dampier.jpg

The causeway to Dampier, and distant salt works

There were a number of islands close inshore. The port area was large.

We found a small “beach” and walked along it.

I did not find Dampier a very attractive town, although its location by the sea did make it seem nicer than Karratha.

After that little beach walk, and driving about having a look, we went back to the van.

Tea was soup, cold pork and salad.

Later in the evening, John complained of bad chest pains – the anxiety attack that he gets sometimes? Or maybe indigestion from the pork? Anyway, he did not want to do anything about it, except  stay quiet and wait for it to pass.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 16

SATURDAY 16 SEPTEMBER     KARRATHA

It was a hot day.

John watched the Olympic events on TV. I watched for some of the time. It was really only swimming and equestrian events that interested me, of all the sports that would feature, so there was a lot on that I really was not keen on seeing.

I cooked minestrone soup – in the electric frypan, outside. It was too hot to use the gas stove in the van.

Later in the day I went for a walk – a few laps of the caravan park. That is really about the only walking option around here!

Tea was some of the soup, cold pork, mashed potato.

R phoned and John had a chat with her.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 15

FRIDAY 15 SEPTEMBER     KARRATHA

Hot again.

Drove to the Post Office again, because we thought more mail would have just arrived. It had. There were several letters and cards from friends – always good to receive.

I mailed my Kimberley letter to family members, after earlier printing a photo page to go with it. It took John ages to set that up to print properly for me, and he was very patient.

I cooked roast pork and vegies for tea.

We watched the Olympic Games opening ceremony on TV. It was wonderful, spectacular, engrossing. Really encapsulated Australia, with some really typically quirky touches. It was interesting that there were images of Wandjina heads used in part of it.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 14

THURSDAY 14 SEPTEMBER     KARRATHA

We did not do a great deal this day.

Drove to the shops and bought some groceries.

I investigated the Library and was able to borrow books – excellent!

I went to a craft shop that had some bead supplies to try to buy some little silver pieces for a bracelet I was  making for S. I was able to order some to come in.

Collected photos that I’d put into the shop on Tuesday. Bought some more photo albums at K Mart. I am now up to Album 11! Most of them are at home of course, not being carted around in the van.

It is getting very hot in the afternoons.

The people with the Trakmaster, that we’d talked with at Broome, were in here for the night. I envied them, moving on tomorrow!

Tea was steak and mushrooms and salad.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 13

WEDNESDAY 13 SEPTEMBER     KARRATHA

We discovered that the caravan park had a loud, sputtering, automatic watering system that came on about 4am! It was loud enough to wake us up.

Later, when we surfaced properly, it was a hot day.

I did washing.

We drove to the shops. Got a paper, bread and a card for John’s nephew-in-law. John did banking. Collected mail at the Post office. I received a couple of great letters from friends, and also the embroidery fabric that I’d ordered by phone, some time ago, from the shop in Cairns. It cost $158 and will be made into a set of placemats.

We drove around to the bowls club for John to check it out. The President – P – was there, and we got talking. His might be a typical Pilbara story: retrenched as a mine rationalized, but committed to his house here, that he cannot get a decent price for. Seven kids and now unemployed.

He told us that the cost of living was really high up here – power, water, shire rates. He estimated that power alone cost him about $10 per day.

John went back to the club after lunch and spent the afternoon practising bowls with P.

I read the paper, sewed, and tried to stay out of the heat.

John enjoyed the bowls and got some more interesting insights into the life up here.

For tea, I reheated the leftover pizzas in the electric frypan – it worked well and they were good.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 12

TUESDAY 12 SEPTEMBER   EIGHTY MILE BEACH TO KARRATHA   506kms

We left the park about 8am.

We stopped at the office/shop, so John could phone a place for computer inks to be mailed to us – he saw a good  offer in the magazine he bought in Broome.

We had a hot and tedious drive south on Highway 1. However, we did have a tail wind, which was one plus.

Stopped at the De Grey River crossing for a coffee break and to have a look at this popular spot for overnight free camping. The informal camp area there is huge, and excellent – it would be a good place to stay for several days. The river is big, there. Much larger than where we forded it, in 1993, on our short cut through from Marble Bar to the highway.

09-12-2000 de grey river bridges.jpg

Two bridges over the DeGrey River

09-12-2000 de grey river from free camp area.jpg

The DeGrey River from the informal camping area

After the De Grey River, through to Port Hedland, the country became a little more interesting – more what I think of as the Pilbara style: pale spinifex, mesa jump up type of low hills, red rocks.

We stopped in Port Hedland to get fuel: $1.11cpl.

The country became a bit more interesting, south of Port Hedland.

The area by the Yule River crossing also looked as if it would be good for a break or an overnight stop.

John got tired so I drove for a while and he napped.

The small town of Roebourne looked rather bleak, as we drove through, but at least it broke the monotony of long stretches of scrub and highway.

We became concerned about some whistling/rattling noises that had begun to be heard from under the bonnet – and because the air con was no longer working at all. Wondered what was going wrong, now?

We were both relieved to turn off the highway, mid-afternoon,  to drive the short distance into Karratha, and make our way around a sort of ring road that skirted the town, to the Balmoral Caravan Park.

John had selected this park because they promised him good TV reception. It would not have been my first choice. It was located on the outskirts of the town, towards the sea but not near it. The surrounding area was barren, flat ground, so the environs of the place were not interesting.

We decided to indulge ourselves in an en-suite site. John negotiated a cheaper rate, by booking in for four weeks  and paying in advance. I was waiting out in Truck when he did this. He was pleased with his deal, but I thought it was a long time to commit to a caravan park, and place, that did not look all that great.

We paid $552.20 for the four weeks, which worked out to just under $20 a night.

The TV reception was excellent – which I guess was the point of the stay here.

Our en-suite bathroom was nice and spacious. It would be pleasant to have that facility right by us. We have our own little clothes hanging line, which is something different.

We had some shade trees around us – needed in this hot weather.

There was no swimming pool, unfortunately. The park I’d have preferred to go to did have one, but they’d told John that their TV signal was poor. I’d hoped that we’d find a pool at this park, despite it not being mentioned in any description, but not to be. A pity because I would have appreciated it, in this heat, and it would have given me something extra to occupy my time.

The park was large, but not too crowded. There were a lot of itinerants.

Overall, the place seemed a bit run down.

After setting up in full, we drove to the shops. Being a purpose-built town, these are in one central area. It was not a bad little shopping area – it seemed to cover all the basics.

We bought wine – the 4 litre casks are available here, which they had not been through all the Kimberley areas.

There was a phone message to call John’s sister. She wanted to tell us that John’s niece’s step son had been killed in a car crash – apparently hooning around in a V8 car. He’d only had his driving licence for a couple of months.

We bought pizza for tea – a special deal that gave us enough for two nights.

Watched TV. Yes the signal was great. Even the fridge motor going did not interfere with the reception.

09-12-2000 to karratha.JPG


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 11

MONDAY 11 SEPTEMBER     EIGHTY MILE BEACH

I was up early and went for a long walk on the beach, even seeing the sunrise, which was beautiful.

09-11-2000 sunrise 80 mile beach.jpg

Sunrise over the beach and dunes

The wind had gotten up during the night, and it was very windy in the morning, but dropped in the afternoon.

I printed the letter for friends that I’d written all about our Kimberley trip. That took over an hour – very fiddly.

John emptied the fuel from the two jerrycans that were on the back of the van, into Truck.

I did some more beadwork. Made a bracelet for R – black and ginger beads, with carnelian chips. Also did one for P – opaque blue beads with old gold antique looking metal highlights.

We went for a walk on the beach and watched the tide come in – from a long way out.

09-11-2000 shell and footprints

The picture tells a story….

The park emptied out a lot today.

I took some more sunset photos. It was not as good as last night’s, but still pretty special.

09-11-2000 sunset 80 mile beacg.jpg

Sunset with people on the beach

09-11-2000 sunset final 80 mile beach

Smoke haze obscuring the last of the sunset

John had reheated fried rice leftovers for tea. I had a little tin of tuna. We both had some salads, and some rockmelon – it was lovely – lots of taste.

What a pity we couldn’t have stayed here to watch the Olympics!


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 10

SUNDAY 10 SEPTEMBER   BROOME TO EIGHTY MILE BEACH   404kms

We were up early and leaving the caravan park at 7.30am. The idea was to reach our destination before the heat of the mid afternoon.

The run south was uneventful, with a slight tail wind.

There was a fruit stall selling local produce, from a nearby horticultural venture, near the Port Smith turn-off. I bought three rock melons, for $3 each, some tomatoes and beans.

The country we travelled through was distinctly boring. Flat, dry, dusty, scrub country, very featureless, long straight stretches of highway – but a good road. I thought this was actually the most boring road we’d yet travelled in Australia!

We had a coffee stop along the way, at a pull in place that appeared extensively used for overnighting.

We had a further break at Sandfire Roadhouse. We reminisced about our lunch stop here, in 1993, in pouring rain, where we paid an extremely exorbitant amount for our lunch. A couple of basic hamburgers and cokes that cost us the equivalent of about three nights’ caravan park fees, back then! It was robbery.

We turned off the highway and drove the 9kms or so, on a reasonable gravel road, to the Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park. It was lunch time when we got there.

Our powered site cost $19.80 for the night.

There was a shop, selling basic supplies, combined with the office and reception area. I bought a tea towel and a magnet.

It was a much bigger caravan park than we’d expected, well established and very pleasant.

After seeing what the place was like, John decided we should stay a second night. We thought it would actually be quite easy to spend weeks here – yet another episode of “we must return, with time”.

09-10-2000 camp 80 mile beach.jpg

Our site at Eighty Mile Beach

After set up and lunch, we went for a walk on the beach. It was absolutely awesome! There were millions of shells, some quite beautiful, and it was impossible to resist bringing some back to the van.

09-11-2000 beach collection.jpg

Eighty Mile Beach still life

The beach was a massive sandy expanse, going on for as far as we could see in both directions. There was clearly a big tidal range.

Vehicles drive along it – the sand was firm. The experienced ones who obviously spend time here each year have little quad bike things for travelling along the beach.

The fishing is obviously good – could tell that from photos in the office/store! I could see why those who stay for a time want to go much further along the beach, to get away from all those who fish right by the park.

09-11-2000 bird lineup 80 mile beach.jpg

Late afternoon bird line-up

When we come back here will have to make sure that we have some good fishing gear. It was not worth John trying to fish with the one little rod he still has functioning – not really suitable for the sea.

The afternoon sun was hot. I sat in the shade and started some beadwork. Made an anklet, which looks good, and a bracelet that will go to V for Xmas – light blue glass beads and lapis lazuli chips. I was very pleased with it.

Late in the afternoon, we went down to the beach and watched a wonderful sunset. There was smoke about and it was a bit like “stairway to the sun”.

Tea was fried rice.

This is a great place.

09-09-2000 to em bch


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 9

SATURDAY 9 SEPTEMBER   MIDDLE LAGOON TO BROOME   187kms

We got packed up and away nice and early.

The trip back to Broome was pretty routine, through the same rather monotonous country we’d twice before travelled.

We did meet quite a bit of traffic coming out to the big funeral at Beagle Bay. All vehicles – except for a couple of tourist ones – were very good at pulling over into the sandy sides and stopping to let us past.

We went back to Roebuck Bay Caravan Park and got a great site, up the “top” end, right on the sea front. It cost $23. The place has continued to empty out – we are definitely on the rump of the tourist season now.

When we arrived at the park, we parked at the front and John went in to arrange the site. Whilst I waited, I was approached by a lady – they had a Trakmaster too, which was on a site just over from where we went.

We unhitched on site, but only did the minimal overnight set up.

Drove to Coles for some grocery type oddments. Restocked the beer and wine supply.

Refuelled Truck, and refilled the jerry can – $1.13cpl.

I went to the bead shop, where I lashed out and spent nearly $100 on materials to make up jewellery. Have Xmas presents for the family in mind – but think it could become quite an addictive hobby. Would make a change from the embroidery, anyway.

We visited the Monsoon Gallery, where there were some rather lovely “Kimberley” works by an artist – Ingrid Windram. I thought her prints were fairly priced too. I offered to buy John one for his coming birthday, but he declined. However, it would be good at some stage, to get some Kimberley related art work for our walls at home.

We went and sampled the Broome Brewery beer at Matso’s. We sat out on their lovely shaded verandah – in a little breeze – with our drinks, playing at being part of “old” Broome. The beer was different, but I wouldn’t buy any more of it! However, I am not a great beer connoisseur.

Later, back at camp, we walked around to have a chat to the other Trakkie people. Their van was the original company’s demo van – very different to ours, and a bit more like a camper inside. They have had a few problems – due to it being one the company learned from, I guess. But they have also had it on some rough tracks, which we always like to hear about. They came around and looked at ours, and said they got some ideas about refitting theirs for future trips.

We sat out and watched our last views of Roebuck Bay, with its changing light.

Tea was soup and sweet corn cobs.

I really want to come back to these parts and spend a lot more time.


Leave a comment

2000 Travels September 8

FRIDAY 8 SEPTEMBER     MIDDLE LAGOON

Weather the same.

Went for a bit of a wander after breakfast, and talked to a man camped at the Lookout site – as the name suggests, further around, looking out to sea. He told us he was here in April, with his son, when Cyclone Rosita went through. They were stuck here for a couple of weeks. There would be a lot worse places to be marooned!

In the late morning, we went back to the reef. It was just so fascinating to wander on it, look at the life there, the patterns made by reef, water, and what grows in the pools that remain at low tide.

09-07-2000 reef detail.jpg

Reef detail

We saw a bailer shell – don’t know the name of the critter that lives in it. A big, bright orange shell with a big, black, snail-like animal inside. It was just crawling around the outside of a little reef pool. We watched it for quite a while – no speed machine.

09-08-2000 bailer shell.jpg

Bailer shell and its resident

 

09-08-2000 sea slug.jpg

Another late lunch and a quiet afternoon, in the heat.

K was back from Broome and came down for a chat.

The lady half of the couple that own the place came down too – to apologize in case we’d heard her lose her temper, earlier in the day! We hadn’t, but it must have been pretty spectacular, if she felt the need to come and apologize to us! She was very interesting to talk to. She said she despairs of some of her people, who do not look after their children’s schooling (like K’s mum!), or care for their houses, and the like.

They have certainly done a good job of developing a business, here at Middle Lagoon. She says the only help they’d had to do it, was from ATSIC to build the amenities block. All the rest has been done with their own money. I don’t know if the water bore and power plant has been government funded at all, though.

All credit to them. It seems well run – certainly more organized and efficient than Honeymoon.

We did the usual pre-pack up, in the dark, eventually, due to the social interruptions!

Tea was cobbler and fries.

The time here has gone too fast – I really want to stay much longer. We must come back, next year. It is a gem of a place.