This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels June 14

WEDNESDAY 14 JUNE   MT ISA TO TENNANT CREEK   693kms

Our alarm went off at 6am, because we had a long drive ahead, today. We left the park at 7.20am.

There was some cloud. At times, we could see light rain falling from the clouds, but we only collected a couple of small spits. It was not too hot.

Initially, out of Mt Isa, was interesting range country, then it flattened out into grass and scrub lands.

The road was not great. It alternated single width strips of bitumen with normal two width road, all the way to the NT border. There was a lot of chopped up areas beside the single width sections, and tyre ruts, showing where vehicles had to pull over for oncoming traffic, in last week’s rain. I remembered hearing that a road train carrying cattle had run off on one of these sections last week, and overturned, killing a lot of poor cows.

We encountered a number of road trains – too many! Also met the occasional wide load and were very glad that the verges had dried out!

Camooweal did not look to have much of interest. We topped up the fuel there, to get the last of the supposedly subsidized Qld fuel prices, before crossing into the NT. The Qld government had recently announced that it was scrapping the fuel subsidy because the companies were not passing it on; they planned to reduce registration costs instead. There had been much yelling and screaming about this from various interest groups. The proposed changes would not benefit interstate tourists like us, in the way the fuel subsidy did, which would be fair enough when we come from other States.

At Camooweal we paid 99cpl.

The road improved greatly once we were into the NT.

We were crossing the southern part of the Barkly Tableland, but not the true grass plains of a bit further north, because there were still some bushes about. The mulga was in flower, and all was very green, with still some surface water about. We were lucky to see it looking so good. There had been quite a lot of flooding of these northern parts of Qld and NT from a cyclone a couple of months ago.

We stopped at the Barkly Roadhouse to eat lunch and buy a cool drink. We could have overnighted here at their caravan park, but opted to do a long day instead.

At the intersection of the Barkly Highway with the north-south Stuart Highway, at Three Ways, we turned left for the run south to Tennant Creek. It would mean a short back track when we headed north again, but we wanted to explore Tennant Creek. We’d also asked K to send mail here, thinking it could be a while before we would be near a Post Office again.

Reached there at about 3.30pm, Central Standard Time. We’d “gained” half an hour as we travelled west. So it took us nearly nine hours to do that leg; we seemed to have a tail wind.

Booked into the Outback Caravan Park for three nights for $17 a night. It was on the edge of town. It had nice big sites – dirt and gravel, of course, with cement slab. It was all very spacious.

After setting up, we drove back to the town centre to try to get a paper, but they were all sold out. “Those tourists…” the man said!

Tea was soup, cold pork, salads.

We were very tired and went to bed soon after tea.

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2000 Travels June 13

TUESDAY 13 JUNE     MT ISA

Today was reasonably warm, but there was cloud build up through the day. It looked like there could be more rain on those dirt roads!

We had a rather boring day. We did the necessary shopping for food for a while, spending over $100 at Coles. Hunted around after a globe for the van light. Collected my photos, which were alright – they are cheaper at K Mart. Did some banking.

Refuelled Truck, at a different servo – 84cpl. Big difference!

Packed up the awning. Hooked Truck up.

There was still sight seeing in the area that we hadn’t done – next time, since we planned to be back this way next year.

Tea was soup, cold pork, mash, coleslaw. Repetitive, but nice.


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2000 Travels June 12

MONDAY 12 JUNE     MT ISA

Today had clear skies and it was sunny, but not really hot. Of course, now that we have decided to keep going west, the weather has become fine!

It was a public holiday, and thus quiet in town.

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Nice day in the caravan park at Mt Isa

I read and sewed for a while, then we drove to the shops and bought a paper, and wine.

On the way back, as we came up to a traffic light Truck shuddered and shook and made clunking noises in second gear. It sounded like a nasty gear box disaster! John stopped and I looked to see if anything was caught underneath – couldn’t see anything untoward, like the innards hanging on the road! We started off again, and John let the handbrake off after we’d started. I asked if it had been on all along? He said it could have been!

We drove around for a bit – no more nasty noises, so we hoped it was only a case of the handbrake being left partly on. John explained to me that the brake acts on the gear system, since the vehicle is constant 4WD.

In the afternoon, we went for a long walk around the streets – more for exercise than any sightseeing.

I discovered that there is a really feral area of “permanents” down the back end of the caravan park. It was the most slummy looking such area we had come across ,to date, in our travels. The structures looked very run down. The police visited there this afternoon.

Tea was soup, cold pork, mashed potato and coleslaw.


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2000 Travels June 11

SUNDAY 11 JUNE     MT ISA

The weather was clearer today.

K phoned. He’d talked with the vet on the phone. He and P have decided to keep the dog going while she is no worse, and to give her a really good last period, with lots of fuss and special food. Sounds like it will not be long, though. I felt awful all day.

We went to the Riversleigh Interpretative Centre. Riversleigh is a really important area for finding fossils, north of Mt Isa, at the southern edge of Lawn Hill National Park. Paleontologists have been exploring for fossils there since the 1970’s. The area was significant enough to have been made a World Heritage site, in 1994.

It cost us $5 each to get into the Centre, but it was well worth it, being informative and interesting. I hadn’t previously realized the extent and significance of the Riversleigh Fossil Area. It gives a fairly complete record of the species living in that region, over about 20 million years, and shows how the environment changed, from lush rainforest to grasslands. It is one of only two or three places in the world that preserve such a complete record. The evolutionary ancestors of many modern species are preserved in the limestone at Riversleigh. Apparently, the rivers and lakes of those times were really high in calcium carbonate, which speeded up the fossilizing and preservation processes.

We decided it would be really interesting to visit the Riversleigh site, if we ever get to visit Lawn Hill.

I bought a tea towel – a practical souvenir, and magnet, and got some general tourist information there.

We drove up to the city lookout – that really showed the scale of the mining infrastructure and its closeness to the town.

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Mt Isa from the Town Lookout

Tea was roast pork and vegies. While that was cooking I made up a batch of two potato soup for later days. This contains ordinary and sweet potatoes.


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2000 Travels June 10

SATURDAY 10 JUNE   CLONCURRY TO MT ISA   174kms

There was low cloud this morning, and some drizzles of rain.

We had to pack up everything, but still managed to leave Cloncurry about 9am.

The way was through range and ridge country – varied, attractive and dramatic in parts.

We had the CB radio on, as usual – it was scanning – and picked up talk between three or four light planes, communicating between themselves. Then we saw them, flying very low. Obviously, from the conversation, they were trying to find a way through the higher country, to Cloncurry. One was really worried about the low cloud obscuring the hills. They eventually turned back, and we saw them again, near Mt Isa, on their way back to the airport.

The mine dominates Mt Isa. The various surface structures are only a few hundred metres from the shopping centre. You see the smelter chimneys from everywhere in town.

Mount Isa Mines has been going since the 1930’s. They mine silver, lead, zinc and copper. Given its scale, the mine is obviously the mainstay of the town.

We booked in at the Sunset Caravan Park – fairly central – for $14.40 a night, after discount. It seemed quite pleasant.

After set up and lunch. drove to the shops and had a look round. I put films in at K Mart for processing and collection on Tuesday.

John found out at the bowls club that he couldn’t play after all, because there was a big two day tournament on. It was a pity that he hadn’t phoned and checked from Cloncurry, because he would have gotten a game.

I bought some meat and greengroceries.

Had chicken drumsticks, potato and salad for tea.

I phoned K but he wasn’t home – had gone to Ballarat for the funeral of his step mother’s father. P told me she had taken our dog, Butch, to the vet, this morning. She has diabetes, will soon get worse and will need to be put to sleep. That was a real shock. I really thought she would still be there when we settled back down at home. She is only 11 years old. I was really upset and sad, and cried for ages. I phoned again, later, when K was home and talked with him about it. We are all upset. I guess John and I both felt guilty for leaving her behind while we travelled.

It was not a good night.

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2000 Travels June 9

FRIDAY 9 JUNE     CLONCURRY

It rained steadily throughout the night. This really put paid to any lingering doubts we had about hanging around waiting for dry roads.

Heard that a caravanner had tried to go north up the Burke and Wills road to Normanton – which is sealed – and had to pull off onto the verge for an oncoming vehicle – the wet, built up verge gave way and he rolled.

Once the rain started, during the night, we’d decided not to move on today, regardless of direction, so I went to the office and bought ourselves another night here.

I phoned Adels Grove and cancelled the booking I’d made earlier, by phone, from Winton.

Phoned Mt Isa and booked us into a caravan park there for four nights. John wants to play bowls there, and visit the shops, and Monday is a holiday. So we will not be rushing around too much in Mt Isa.

The ground had become very muddy underfoot.

We drove to the shops, in the morning, for some oddments. John was looking for a replacement globe for a blown one in one of our bed reading lights – he will have to try in Isa! He did some work on tax figures.

I went to visit with L and her husband, as they’d been on their way to visit us when we were going out. Sat and chatted for a couple of hours. They had a really good book about Lawn Hill. They were inclined to wait for the roads to dry out. He had been made redundant in his career by computers – hence they had the travel time.

I went to have a shower and left John to watch the potatoes I’d put on to cook for tonight’s fries. He had instructions to turn them off after one minute of boiling. When I got back, he was absorbed in the computer and the potatoes were boiling merrily away and falling to pieces. I was cross.

Tea was oven fried fish and fried potato mush, which was not nice.


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2000 Travels June 8

THURSDAY 8 JUNE     CLONCURRY

Today was a cloudy day, with some intermittent rain.

I washed the bedding, and was lucky to get it dry. I finished a letter to V. John did banking updates.

We heard that, due to heavy rain further north, overnight, all the Gulf dirt roads were closed. I phoned the Gregory Hotel to confirm – yes, it was true. The 4WD Road Trek lot were stuck at Burke and Wills Roadhouse. The hotel man said the roads would be closed for two days to a week, depending on whether there was any more rain. More is actually forecast.

This created a dilemma for us. Would we hang around here, for an unknown time, in order to go north west to Lawn Hill National Park? Or would we give up and continue west, since our main goal for this dry season (ha!) was the Kimberley?

We decided to push on. Next year’s rough plan would probably see us coming back across this way from north west WA, and we could try for Lawn Hill then.

Drove to the shops – John wanted some internet time. I bought some food for tea. We filled the gas bottles and Truck – 95cpl! Big jump in price from Winton.

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Pleasant to be on a site with some grass again

Tea was soup, chicken drumsticks, salad.

Then we went off to social bowls – Cloncurry style. A unique and unpleasant experience. It was a drinking club. Social bowls turned out to be beginners’ night, with a few young kids, a very drunk young aborigine, and the usual hard core bowls types. The kids were nice and keen and had some potential. The indigine kept falling flat on his face every time he tried to pick up a bowl. It was awful. At one stage, he fell into the narrow gutter at the side of the green, and was there for some time. It was disgraceful that the kids – ages about 9 to 12 – were witness to it all.

We queried why he was allowed to stay – and why he kept on being served yet more alcohol – and were told that, if the club tried to remove him, or refused to serve him, they would be accused of racial discrimination! Political correctness has gone crazy! He was a drunken fool who should not have been tolerated in anyone’s company. Had he been white he’d have been well and truly out.

I shall be very wary of night time social bowls in such towns, in the future!


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2000 Travels June 7

WEDNESDAY 7 JUNE     CLONCURRY

We slept in.

As soon as I got up, it was off to the laundry, where I did two loads of washing.

A lady also doing her washing recognized me as having taught her at Hamilton High – about 1970! I was amazed to still be recognizable, thirty years later! L and her family were doing an extended trip and heading for Lawn Hill and then east to the Cape.

It was a late breakfast for me, and then I sat in the sun and sewed for a while.

John went down the street, to check out the bowls club and came back with the news we were going to social bowls tomorrow night.

There did not seem to be as much to see and do in Cloncurry as I had anticipated.

After lunch, we walked up the hill near the park and looked out over the area. There were many hills on the horizon, to the south and south west especially. We chatted for a while with a Qld Rail man who was up there too.

The railway is very active in Cloncurry because of mining and cattle. Apart from mines around the town itself, lines come in from Mt Isa and the mining towns to the south west, like Duchess and Dajarra.

From the top of the hill, we could see across to the rail yards in the distance, and see a big train being assembled to go east. We had already noticed, on the way into town yesterday, the big road trucks moving ore from the local mine/s to the rail depot.

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Assembling a big train to go east

Went into town for some food supplies, then visited L’s site and talked with them some more.

Tea was pumpkin soup, beef mince curry and rice.


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2000 Travels June 6

TUESDAY 6 JUNE   WINTON TO CLONCURRY   380kms

It was cloudy again.

We left the caravan park about 9am – part of the usual morning exodus from Winton.

Refuelled at the Caltex depot – still 83cpl.

Took the highway to the north west, through mostly flat grassland country, broken occasionally by low tree lines that marked a water course, or a shallow depression where water stayed longer. There was one interesting area of low jump ups that we passed to the edge of, maybe 50 or 60kms from Winton.

Not far before Kynuna, we turned onto the dirt track to Combo Waterhole, on the upper reaches of the Diamantina River. This waterhole is supposed to have been the inspiration for Banjo Paterson to write “Waltzing Matilda”, while he was staying at nearby Dagworth Station, and picnicked there. No one knows for sure whether there ever really was a sheep stealing swagman once camped here, but it would be a pleasant spot for a camp, for sure.

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Combo Waterhole on the Diamantina River

We did the Information Walk , finding out about the many channels of the Diamantina River here, and crossing several of them – dry.

An interesting feature that was highlighted was the low stone overshot weirs, built about a hundred years ago using Chinese labour. The technique of using flat stones to build these was a Chinese one – and obviously effective, given how well the weirs have lasted.

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Dry river channel and overshot weir at Combo

We spotted three new birds – a Jacky Winter, a brown songlark and a pratincole.

Ate our lunch by the waterhole – wide, brown, peaceful.

Just as we were finishing lunch, heard a motor and then a vehicle arrived – an official vehicle of the Outback Trek – a 4WD fundraising event. They said the Trekker vehicles were expected within the hour – so we left – hastily! We definitely did not want to get caught up in the noise, dust and general mayhem of that sort of thing.

The rest of the drive to Cloncurry was uneventful, through country with many water channels – mostly dry – and with the occasional hills.

Just beyond Kynuna was where the divide is between the streams that drain into the Lake Eyre Basin, like the Diamantina and those that drain north, to the Gulf, like the Flinders River. I guessed this meant that we had entered the Gulf Country?

There was less grass as we got closer to Cloncurry and we had a few spots of rain.

Booked into the Gilbert Park Caravan Park, on the eastern outskirts of town for three nights – for $13.50 a night, after discount. It seemed alright.

We unhitched and set up, then drove into town, found a Woolworths, bought some supplies, then bought an early fish and chip tea.

By then, it was quite windy and cool.

Phoned and left message for K that we were back in civilization. J phoned his daughters – one had flu and one wasn’t home.

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2000 Travels June 5

MONDAY 5 JUNE   OPALTON TO WINTON   128kms

The sky was cloudy today, but it was high cloud.

We had a lot to pack up. Left Opalton about 11am – sadly, as we had become quite attached to our shelter and the camp area in general.

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Last view of our camp at Opalton

Reached Winton about 1.30pm, and stopped in town to collect the mail. Had a quick look through it, immediately. A cheque was there, for John’s inheritance from his sister, so he banked that straight away, at the Post Office. He wrote out a cheque for the money he’d promised R and sent that off.

I quickly bought a few supplies.

We booked back into the Matilda Country Caravan Park, for $13.50, and stayed in one of their sites where we could remain hitched up.

I had a looooong hot shower, washed my hair, shaved my legs, pumiced my feet. Then I felt really clean again! The shower at Opalton had been sort of adequate, but one did not linger in the very cold water, and of course, it was heavily sedimented.

John chatted with a couple of fellow campers who came from Wagga. One made wooden tool handles so they all chatted about that, and steaming wood to shape it, a process that interests John. He obtained their names and addresses and an invitation to look them up when next we go through Wagga.

Tea was pumpkin soup, sausages in bread.

We had TV again! I hadn’t missed it. Tonight did miss sitting out around the fire in the quiet of the bush, though.

The cloud cover made the night seem warmer.