This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1999 Travels February 18

THURSDAY 18 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

We did not get a particularly early start, as John slept in somewhat. But after breakfast, we headed off to go to Dorrigo.

Took the Pacific Highway south, through Coffs Harbour, and then the road that goes through Bellingen and up the Range. We have been up the Bellinger River valley before, but it still impresses as being so pretty. We have said on previous occasions how, if we could have afforded it, we would have liked to move there. It remains one of the most attractive areas, for living in, that we have seen. Real estate values reflect the fact that we are not the only ones who think this!

The road, which is quite narrow for much of the way, initially follows the Bellinger River valley, and there are glimpses of the river through the trees that line the road. It is fertile farming country, along the valley. After Bellingen town, the road climbs up the range; in places there are steep drops to one side and rock walls to the other.

We followed a petrol tanker up the very bendy climb beyond Bellingen. He had to swing really wide on some of the corners. It is not a great road for driving a big vehicle on.

We turned off just before Dorrigo township to go to the National Park centre – Information Centre and the location of the Skywalk – an elevated boardwalk across to a viewing point over the forests towards the coast. The outlook was somewhat hazy, but vast.

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The outlook from Skywalk, over the escarpment to the coastal plains

At the Information Centre, bought a CD set of bird calls, thinking we could listen to these on the Truck sound system, while travelling in places with poor radio, and thus learn to identify some species by their calls. Quite often, in the bush, one can hear but not see.

After that, went to the Glade picnic area and ate our lunch there. We were entertained by bush turkeys chasing about.

We decided to undertake the 5.6km Wonga circuit walk, through the forests. It was excellent. Part of the walk is just above the drop off of the escarpment – we could see it falling away beyond the trees. The route took us past two interesting waterfalls – both flowing well. Tristania Falls were a “normal” kind of waterfall.

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Tristania Falls in Dorrigo National Park

The Crystal Cascades were different – in a kind of grotto with little plants growing on the wet rocks, nourished by the spray from the falls. One could walk in behind the Cascades and look out through the curtain of water.

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John lurking behind the curtain of water at Crystal Shower Falls

We identified three new birds on the walk – made it an even more great day. White headed Pigeon, Australian Thrush, Eastern Whipbrid.

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The Wonga Walk in Dorrigo National Park – an excellent walk

By the time we ended the walk, the outlook to the coast was obscured – it looked like it was raining pretty heavily, down there.

On the drive back, called in at a good roadside produce stall, that we’d noted on the way, this morning, and stocked up somewhat.

We got back to camp just after 6pm, having driven 190kms. It had rained very heavily, here, apparently.

While tea was cooking, John walked to the shops and got a video, and I defrosted the fridge.

Tea was tomato and herb soup, stroganoff and noodles. Fruit for dessert.

John’s video – Amiset – was very average!


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1999 Travels February 17

WEDNESDAY 17 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

It was a hot, blue sky day, that reached 30 degrees. There was some occasional cloud building in the distance, but that dissipated.

John slept in until 10am. Before he got up, I did the washing, then after he was out of it, stripped the bedding and went and washed that. There is a sign in the laundry warning about theft of clothes from lines here. It is a very public caravan park, with people walking through, on their way to the beach, all the time. The local paper indicates that there is quite a bit of theft from parked vehicles too.

After late breakfast, we went to the bowls club, and practiced, until 1pm. It was very hot work.

After lunch at the van, relaxed through the afternoon, as it was hot and a little bit humid. John read. I got the washing in, made up the bed, then sewed.

At 5pm, we went for a walk on the beach. There was less direct sun at that time of day, to affect John’s burned feet. Got back at 6.

It was too hot to do much cooking, so we had soup, which was easy to reheat. Then tinned smoked tuna, mashed potato, and salad. We had bananas for dessert – from John’s purchase the other day. They were very yummy ones. It was a nice, cool tea – makes a change to need it this way.

John says we will go visit one of the more distant National Parks tomorrow – Dorrigo seems like a good idea.

I worked on my diary write ups until 10.30pm and then went to bed, but John stayed up, on the computer game, until 2.30am.


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1999 Travels February 16

TUESDAY 16 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

When I woke up this morning, the headache had gone. A good sign.

The morning was one of clear, blue skies and glorious sunshine, but it clouded over in the afternoon. But it actually got quite hot, reaching nearly 30 degrees.

We had a late breakfast again, as John did not get up until 10m.

I walked to the shops and picked up the photo reprints I’d ordered, of the Toowoomba gardens. John printed off the digital photos he’d taken of TB and me, there. I walked back to the shops and mailed these to TB, along with a couple of postcards, to other people. I found a book exchange in the township, and traded in a heap of books for three others.

John went to bowls in the afternoon.

I went for a walk on the beach. There are great heaps of weed down in front of the other caravan park, near the creek mouth. It covers the entire beach and is up to five feet deep, in places. It smells awful. I am glad we are not in that caravan park!

I walked for an hour and came back quite hot and sweaty. While I was walking, an army helicopter flew along the beach – quite low. One had earlier flown over the township. They are so noisy.

Spent some time putting photos in the new album, then had a shower.

John was late back from bowls, so we had a late tea – the leftovers from yesterday.

It feels summery again, as it is still warm after sunset. We needed the fan on in the van.

There was a moon eclipse of the sun, this afternoon and evening, but we couldn’t see it, because of cloud.

I read in today’s paper that Beam is trying to sell its games division and will then probably de-list. I wonder if that means we will just lose the money we have invested in Beam shares? I do not really know how such a process works, or affects shareholders. Maybe John can investigate further, as it was his choice of share – he liked it because it made his favourite computer game.


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1999 Travels February 15

MONDAY 15 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

Blue sky and sunshine today. This is so good, after the lousy weather we have mostly had on the coast. The tops of John’s feet actually got sunburned, yesterday, on our walk.

After a late breakfast, we drove into Coffs Harbour. Found a Westpac Bank and paid the truck registration – $410 – ouch!

John went to the bowls shop and bought me a bowls measuring tape. I am not really sure I need one, though. He is certainly investing in me playing the game.

I bought a new photo album. We got some car stuff (a grease gun, etc). Got some groceries.

Stopped at the Big Banana. Neither of us was interested in doing the tourist thing at this attraction, but John wanted bananas! He bought three kilos at a satisfactorily cheap price.

On the drive back, we visited the Lake Russell Gallery in the Emerald Beach area. We discovered this on one of our previous school holiday camping trips here. Browsed for an hour or so. They still have great items, though there was nothing that “grabbed” me quite as much as a painting with cockatoos in it, that I once saw here and still regret not buying.

Drove to Moonee Beach to go for a walk on the headland there. It was hard to find the old path that we used to walk, when we camped here, through people-high grass, so the walk was not as enjoyable was we thought it would be. Eventually reached the headland and sat and watched the waves for a while. They are still big. We found an easier route to walk back, over the rocks. John is now having doubts about moving to Moonee to camp – too many people are commenting on the nasty sandflies there. But it is a beautiful spot, albeit with less for me to do while he bowls – it does not have the beach access, or shops, of Woolgoolga.

We had a late lunch again – 4pm! I only had some fruit, as I have run out of bread – really effective grocery shopping on my part!

Tea was soup, a vegie stir fry and mango to finish. The herby tomato soup has been really nice. There is enough stir fry left over to do for tomorrow’s tea too.

My face is sunburnt. I have a strong headache – too much sun? That would be rather ironic! Maybe I am a little dehydrated?

We watched some TV.

John was up very late, again, playing computer games.


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1999 Travels February 14

SUNDAY 14 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

We woke to clear blue skies and sunshine. It got to about 27 degrees today, a little humid, but not uncomfortable.

I read the NSW Sunday paper, that I walked up and bought. We had a very late breakfast, as John slept in.

Then we went for a very long walk on the beach, right along to the rocky headland to the north. The weed is back on the beach, in big banks of the stuff, between the caravan park and the creek mouth.

We watched our two caravan neighbours getting bait worms, by dragging smelly fish offal along the sand, and waiting for a worm head to come up out of the sand. The worms are over a foot long – yuk – like huge earthworms. They had gotten a few, but to my mind, not many for the time they were out there dragging the sand. These two seem to catch the odd fish, every day, too. It must be the worms!

We had a late lunch – at 4pm. Then went to bowls.

It was an alright evening. I was inconsistent, as usual, but not too bad. John’s game was great in the first half, and off in the second. He got cross with himself – and me! We won the first game easily and lost the second by a similarly large margin. The club served supper – fried Chinese snack foods, and chips. I find I am not keen on such fatty things, any more. I had some fruit when we got home.

We had a long talk, outside the club, as we were leaving, with a single lady aged in her fifties, who said she would love to go travelling, but has no-one (male) to go with. She says she is too afraid to go alone and would not consider travelling with a female in similar circumstances. We suggested she investigate 4WD tours that take single passengers, or tag alongs. But I think she is too fussy.


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1999 Travels February 13

SATURDAY 13 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

It seems to be fining up – there were some blue skies today.

I walked to the shops and bought the weekend papers. Collected my photos – they were alright. I ordered copies made of five of the Toowoomba Japanese Gardens ones, which I will send to T.

While John read the morning papers I went to the Saturday markets, and browsed their offerings. I bought some bargain price mangoes and apples.

John went off to bowls in the early afternoon, at the Park Club, in Coffs Harbour.

I cleaned the van, then mounted photos until I ran out of album space.

I went for a walk on the beach, for over an hour. It was very pleasant to walk along on the sand with blue skies and sunshine around, for a change. The seas are still quite large, though. The huge piles of weed, sea cabbage or whatever, that were on the beach yesterday, seem to have gone back out to sea – the beach is much clearer.

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Woolgoolga Beach

I made soup – tomato and herb – for the next few days, then read the papers for the rest of the afternoon.

John was satisfied with his bowls game, even though he didn’t win. He informed me that he has entered us in the pairs game at Woopi Bowls Club, tomorrow, at 5pm. That is awful timing, as far as meals go!

Tea was the last of the barley soup, chicken noodle soup chow mein, and a mango.


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1999 Travels February 12

FRIDAY 12 FEBRUARY     WOOLGOOLGA

I went for a walk to the shops, while John slept in. Put a roll of film in for processing. Found out that the shop takes passport photos and that the Post Office does passport processing. All solved!

After breakfast I went back to the shops and had the photos done.

We drove to Coffs Harbour – to shop, and so John could – yet again – check out bowls. It was raining, but a pleasant drive.

On the way, we detoured to go look at Moonee Beach – John really loves the outlook from there – we have spent some school holidays camping there. We might come here for a week, after Woolgoolga.

In Coffs, bought groceries. We didn’t linger, because of the bowls this afternoon.

It was teeming rain as we drove back to camp. Ho hum! John phoned the bowls club – the game was cancelled. So too, we heard on the radio, was the second cricket final in Melbourne!

After lunch, I took all the passport stuff to the Post Office and got it all done. One less thing to worry about. I also checked our bank account levels at the bank branch here; our account is beginning to climb back into some health, but another month of restraint is needed.

We managed a walk on the beach, for an hour, but got a bit damp, though, from rain showers. There were great heaps of large, strappy seaweed on the beach.

Tea was barley soup, flake cutlets, potato slices, salad, mango.

The Carlton pre-season game was on TV, late, and John watched that, then was on the computer until well after midnight.

News has filtered in today, that a cyclone – Rona – crossed the coast last night, in the Mossman/Cow Bay area. It seems to have been rather unexpected – one of those systems that is out to sea then suddenly changes course – it rapidly became a Category 3 apparently. So there was little warning. There is much flooding in Cairns, with the Lake Placid and Caravonica areas evacuated, due to the Barron River flooding. The rainforest around Cow Bay has been badly affected. I guess Wonga Beach would have suffered too. There was about a one metre storm surge in those parts – T’s great fear! A lot of sugar cane has been destroyed. The system continued on to the Tablelands, dumping a lot of rain. I wonder whether the sisters J and L are still happy about their decision to see out the summer at Atherton?


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1999 Travels February 11

THURSDAY 11 FEBRUARY   EVANS HEAD TO WOOLGOOLGA   170kms

We didn’t wake up till 8am! This is what dull, grey mornings do to one.

Pack up and departure was quite smooth and routine, and we proceeded south.

The drive was uneventful. There was some interest in looking at river heights, especially the Clarence,  and in the section from the Yamba turnoff to the Grafton bypass, where we paralleled the Clarence and the farmlands were interesting. The more forested section south of Grafton was a bit tedious.

John remembered that there is a big bowls club at Woolgoolga, so that is where he wants to stay next! There was a little sunshine when we reached there, but it had obviously been wet, too.

We booked into the Woolgoolga Beach Caravan Park – $11 a night, with the seventh night free. This is, again, good for the budget. We are trying to have a little economy drive at the moment, after the excesses of Xmas and Telstra bills. There are some big bills coming in around this time, like the Truck rego and insurance.

There was no site with a slab available, so we set up on a fairly soggy looking area, and put shadecloth on the ground outside the van.

After setting up and having lunch, went for a short drive – to the bowls club, so John could investigate what was on. He booked us in for a pairs game tomorrow afternoon.

Then we drove to the headland lookout. Walked down the slope from the carpark to the rocky top of the headland and watched the sea for a while – the waves are still very big and powerful.

Then we drove back to camp and went for a walk on the beach, which is just at the end of the caravan park. It is a more interesting beach than that at Evans Head, with inlets and headlands in the distance.

Tea was barley soup, lamb chops and some vegies, followed by mango.

While I was cooking tea, John fiddled with the TV and found that we could not get the ABC.

After tea, went for a walk along the shopfronts that are across the road from the park. John found a video shop he could join and borrowed a film – The Man in the Iron Mask. It was very ordinary!

The first AFL pre-season game was on TV – from Perth.

There was some rain in the evening.

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1999 Travels February 10

WEDNESDAY 10 FEBRUARY     EVANS HEAD

We pottered about in the morning. I had a book I wanted to finish reading before returning it to the Library this afternoon.

After lunch, went for a drive to Coraki, to have a look at the historic river wharf precinct there.

Coraki dates from the 1840’s, initially developing as the site of a small shipyard and port for the timber cutters of the district. It is at the junction of the Richmond and Wilson Rivers and at one time, before rail and road transport were established,  its port was an extremely busy one. Sugar cane growing on the rich river flats began from the 1860’s and there was also a thriving dairy industry. Alternative transport saw the port decline, and Lismore became the main service centre for the district.

I had an extra interest in seeing Coraki because friend T comes from these parts, and his mother lived in the town until her death a few weeks ago.

We saw some splendid old buildings, but there are only photos of the wharf that was once here. It is similar to photos of the Echuca wharf, with steamers on the river.

The Richmond River was noticeably higher than we have seen it before, with lots of branches and small tree pieces floating down it – like small green islets.

Filled with diesel in Coraki – 71cpl.

We returned along the eastern side of the river.

Went for a last walk on the beach. There was less sticky foam today and it was mostly up around the 4WD access point. Unfortunately, as we were walking near there, a gust of wind blew a pile of it our way and we had to wade thigh deep through it. Yuk. There were a few fishers. We saw a 40kg jewfish/mulloway one man had caught – it was immense. It took him forty minutes to play and land it. Another caught one was taken by a shark as it was being pulled in.

After the walk, we managed to take the annexe roof down, dry, between the usual showers.

Tea was barley soup I made this morning, a vegie stir fry and rice, with rock melon after.

Watched cricket on TV – a one day final.

I am quite ready to leave here and look for better weather to the south. Exploring the district has been interesting, but time for somewhere drier.


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1999 Travels February 9

TUESDAY 9 FEBRUARY     EVANS HEAD

The rain continued through the day, though it eased more to showers later on.

We set out on a drive to Rosebank, which is up in hilly country NE of Lismore, inland from Bangalow. Some years ago, when we were visiting C, he had sent us up here to look at a small timber milling operation where he sourced camphor laurel for his furniture making. We visited it then as a long day trip from our camp at Coffs Harbour. John wanted to revisit the place. It is really a one person timber yard, specializing in the fine timbers of the area, of which there are several.

We drove via back roads mostly, from Broadwater. It was an extremely interesting drive, initially through farming country. The Alstonville area looked really attractive. I bought some eggs and tomatoes at the hobby farm of a lovely old man who really wanted us to linger and talk.

North of Alstonville the roads became more winding; there were still some great farms but also rainforest stands. We had to cross two running creek fords. One was really quite fast and one would not tackle it in a conventional car. I hoped we didn’t have to come back this way! The smell of the countryside here was wonderful.

We found the timber place, which is on a back road out of the Rosebank hamlet. John remembered the way, as we got closer, which was fortunate because I certainly didn’t, and we were really out in the sticks.

The timber man was a nice guy, much younger than us. He specializes in red cedar, rosewood and camphor laurel. This latter is great for blanket boxes, knitwear storage  and the like, because moths don’t like it. As the name would suggest! The tree is an introduced species which has now been declared a noxious weed in these parts. As a result, the timber will become increasingly hard to obtain. It is a strongly patterned wood.

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Camphor laurel. Some is more heavily patterned than this

The man gave us the idea of making over our kitchen at home, using camphor laurel, especially for the bench top. We looked at one he’d done in his house. He had left the sides naturally curved, too, which was interesting. He had mixed up his timbers, using rosewood in a panel at the base of drawers and in other areas. I thought it would have worked better without the assortment. He uses polyurethane to seal his timber bench tops, several coats thereof, which he rubs in. He sells the camphor laurel for about $60 a square metre. I think the timber is too strongly patterned for use in a large area – I prefer more subtlety, I think. Still, it is an idea.

We returned to camp via Lismore. This was faster and mostly through farmland.

We just had time left in the day for a walk on the beach. There was a lot of foam at the high tide line, built up from the recent high seas. This was really sticky stuff. It was blowing about in the wind. Where it landed there was a brown stain left, residue from the tannin in the river water, going out to sea, we thought. Or maybe just from the soil colour staining the river water.

There were some men fishing from the beach, trying to jag live mullet to use for bait.

It was not all that pleasant walking in those conditions, so we didn’t make it a long walk.

Tea was chicken noodle soup, steak, mushrooms, vegies, followed by rockmelon.

Today’s was an excellent outing. I loved the country we traversed. We drove 153 kms.