This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2012 Travels July

JULY 2012     WE BUY A BUS

In June, out of the blue, John said to me “Well, I might as well get some enjoyment out of this bus of yours, so let’s buy it now!”  This mystifying statement seemed to come out of nowhere, to me, so he had to explain.

Back last year when he was doing it tough in ICU after the heart operation, he’d asked me what I would do when he “croaked”. Right then, I was trying hard not to think about that possibility, so I just gave a flippant answer: “Oh, I’d sell the house, buy a bus and go travelling.” I didn’t think any more about it, but a seed had obviously been planted….

In July, we found our bus. Even better, we found it in Melbourne, without the need to go looking interstate with attendant complications of things like registration. Although, several treks from our outer eastern home across to where bus was, in Campbellfield, sometimes seemed akin to an interstate trip, in Melbourne traffic.

John was browsing web sites and found a converted Coaster advertised on the site of a Winnebago dealer in Melbourne. Nothing would do but immediately going to have a look at it – on a Sunday, over in Campbellfield. I was surprised that someone from the dealership, nroamlly closed on Sundays,  even agreed to that.

So off we went. What we saw looked really interesting. Very clean and in great condition. The dealer rang the previous owner and let us speak to him. It had been a bus, from new in 1996, for an agricultural college out of Geelong. He bought it from them in 2002 and had it professionally converted, intending to travel long term. But his retirement kept getting put off, and so it had not been much used. Then, last year, they took it to Townsville and discovered that his wife found the steps, and climbing into the passenger seat, too difficult – she wanted a Winnebago, with a passenger door. So it had been a trade in. It definitely looked out of place, sitting in the showroom amongst several massive Winnebago motor homes, with all their bells and whistles.

Bus as we first saw it

Professional conversion – tick. Low kms for a diesel, at 245.000 – tick. The much desired HD 6 cylinder engine – tick. No apparent areas of rust – tick. Solar set up and storage batteries – tick. Exhaust brakes – tick. Two way fridge – tick (I don’t like gas fridges in RV’s). Plenty of cupboards – tick. On the down side – the two single beds were on the narrow side. I wasn’t wrapped in the flowery pattern of the curtains and upholstery – but that could be changed. On balance, a great deal to like. We were both already licensed to drive vehicles over car weight, so that was not an issue, as it was for some people looking to buy converted Coasters.

This decor would not have been my first choice!

The salesman said he could do us a good deal. We arranged to return on Tuesday (bowls on Monday!) for a test drive and came home very impressed.

John duly took it for the test drive, really liked the power of the engine, but found a couple of things needing fixing – like a wheel alignment needed. Some bargaining ensued and we agreed to buy it at a price we thought was fair, with a reversing camera thrown in – to be fitted. Bus had to have roadworthy certification and service done, so it would be a couple of weeks before we could collect it. There would be a three year mechanical warranty on it too.

So we signed up and the paperwork was all done – and home we went. Kind of dazed – couldn’t quite believe what we’d done, hoped it was the right decision.

As a result of the roadworthy findings, Bus was fitted with new brake discs and two new front tyres.

On Wednesday 25 July, we drove across to Campbellfield to pick up our new toy, driving my Barina car. The Service Head took us all over the Bus, explaining how things worked – so much to try to assimilate. This had all sorts of luxuries that our van hadn’t – like a hot water service, and a bathroom containing shower and toilet. My head was spinning. Fortunately, there were quite a few instruction booklets that had been passed on by the previous owner.

John realized that the promised reversing camera had not been installed. So we went for a wander, and had lunch, while waiting for that to be done. Then, I left to drive my car home at a time to avoid the traffic build up from mid-afternoon.

John phoned at 3.55 to say he was about to leave the dealer – just in time to hit the traffic build up, in an unfamiliar vehicle! But he made good time and said the Bus was great to drive, though the steep hill up to Mt Evelyn had it down to second gear – not quite as powerful as he thought!  He phoned again from Mooroolbark, so I would be out the front to guide him into the parking bay when he arrived. Well, he swung the bus wide to enter our gates and then straight up into the place that had been the caravan parking bay. No worries! Just so easy. Bus fitted nicely, with OK door access. Very pleasing.

It fits…….though we would need to keep the neighbours’ trees pruned.

Our “bus” buying focus had been on converted Coasters because, in all the time we’d spent up north and in the outback, we’d seen how widespread their use for transport was, and how much punishment from rough roads they could absorb. Adels Grove had used Coasters for their Riversleigh tours – and that road could be woeful at times. Many aboriginal communities across the Top used them for travel from the outstations to the local towns – like across the Gibb River Road to Kununurra. I’d driven school bus Coasters on bush tracks in Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks, as well as around Darwin. Getting mechanical work done, if needed, should be easy – much more so than on the Landrover!

Whilst all of the bus buying had been going on, John had been given the chance to buy his brother’s 2008 VW Passat, as brother was buying a new car. It was offered to John at the price the dealer was giving as a trade in. Too good to pass up. We would have to tart Truck up and sell it, eventually. In the meantime, the bank accounts looked quite sad!

I was kept busy, arranging vehicle insurances, Roadside Assists, freeway tags and the like.

The end of July saw us with four vehicles parked around the place – Bus, Truck, Passat, Barina…..

So began a different style of travel, one we hoped would be as enjoyable as the previous experiences had been, albeit in more “civilized” parts and at a more sedate pace.

The next decision – where would we go for our first trip with Bus?


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2012 Travels January to June

VALE TRAKMASTER – JAN – JUNE 2012

The year started in line with what seemed to have been the main theme of recent times: I had to have surgery. This time, to release a trapped nerve in the ankle, that was causing foot to go numb.

When I told the physio who was overseeing the ongoing shoulder rehabilitation, about the coming foot operation, his response was not reassuring…..enough sympathy  and comments like “Poor you!” to make me suspect he knew things I didn’t. Like, the shoulder reco was a breeze, compared to tarsal tunnel surgery!

Some people can never really master the use of crutches, and I am one of those. It all did not go smoothly, with the wound becoming infected, a common occurrence according to the surgeon, after the event. But with time, most feeling was restored to the foot.

The last day of March was a milestone event – for the first time this year, I was able to walk around the supermarket! By mid-April was again walking dog around the lake at Lilydale, although the surgery wound on ankle was not pronounced fully healed until the end of that month.

Fig season again – and dog’s annual weight gain……

Any prospect of renewed van travel  seemed even more distant. Clearly, the remote regions we used to frequent, and the extended trips, would no longer be sensible or possible. So the offroad van would go.

Crutches and rehab aside, I managed to remove all the permanent travel gear, and stores, from the van, and give it a thorough cleaning. I reckon there were generations of red dust in the more out-of-the-way cracks and crevices. Yep, I recognize that colour from Central Australia, and that patch from the Pilbara……

Van came up looking pretty good for its age, and was duly advertised.

All cleaned up……

There was clearly interest in used Trakmasters and we fielded initial shows of interest. But one wanted single beds, another a bathroom, yet another a major reduction in our asking price.

A lady came from the ACT to inspect van and seemed on the verge of purchase. Then, she found a suitable one closer to home, that saved the hassle of coming back with a tow vehicle.

Friend M headed off in April to house sit for friends in Toowoomba. Then we heard from her. En route, the Troopy’s engine had seized. Near Coonabarabran. That part of the country has not been kind to M! That was a “new” reconditioned engine, too – put in after her accident  up that way, last year. Now it will need yet another reconditioned engine. That work would be done up there.

While M was in the Toowoomba/Brisbane area, she planned to go and have a look at a factory that converted Coaster buses and other small bus-like vehicles to motorhomes. She was curious, as was I.

Daughter and family celebrated 40th birthdays with a holiday in Thailand. We were invited to go, but – health issues aside – travel to international resorts really did not appeal to us. I’d visited assorted S.E. Asian places to attend work conferences and the like, and had no ambition to return to any of those.

After a series of “accidents” and messes, we worked out that we had a dog who can’t eat bones without getting a badly upset stomach. Who would have thought?

Dog loved bones, but they didn’t love her!

 Daughter and partner visited with their six month old son. It was dog’s first contact with the baby – she was curious about the interesting smells and different noises coming from that direction.

In May, we sold the caravan, for the price we wanted – to a man who lived a couple of blocks away! All that money spent on advertising far and wide…… Whilst he was finalizing the arrangements, the ACT lady got back to us – her van purchase had fallen through and was ours still available? Too late.

I shed a tear as I watched our little van depart the driveway for the last time.

Setting off for adventures without us.

I worked out that we had slept in it for about nine and a half of the past fourteen years, since commencing travel in early 1998. We had towed it some 120,000kms, a good third of that on rough dirt roads. We’d certainly had our money’s worth from the van – and sold it for almost what we’d paid for it, new. Trakmasters certainly held their value well.

Then, there was that big vacant space off the drive, where once the van had lived…….


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2011 Travels August to December

AUGUST TO DECEMBER     THE END OF AN ERA

Although we hadn’t known it at the time, the wintertime jaunt through the south was to be our last trip with the van.

The breathlessness that had affected John at Beachport did not go away at home. Doctor ordered a range of tests be done. Initially these were inconclusive, but then a stress heart test was to be done at Maroondah Hospital, towards the end of August. Being independent, he drove himself, but by the time he parked Truck and walked to the clinic, was in such a state that he was immediately taken to Emergency.

I arranged for him to be transferred from there to our preferred Epworth Eastern, where he was admitted. After some time and further investigations a triple bypass procedure took place. Given John’s recent history with surgery and blood clots, this was a rather worrying time, but all went well. Altogether, with the stay in Epworth and the following rehab, he was away for over five weeks. I think dog had decided he was never coming back. In amongst the various surgeries and issues of the last part of the year,  Couey turned one.

On her first birthday

My surgery for shoulder reconstruction which had been scheduled for the end of August, had to be postponed. It was some time before John was allowed to drive himself anywhere again, and so the shoulder was not fixed until December. Then, an arm in a sling was a distinct handicap in the preparation of Xmas tea. Fortunately, most of the family multitudes were elsewhere this Xmas, but I managed to prepare a cold feast for the expected seven – only to have that reduced, at the last minute, to three (M and ourselves)  due to extreme thunderstorms and flooded roads. We dined for days on leftovers.

Also in December, John saw the specialist who had done his most recent hip replacement two years earlier. Pain, discomfort and stiffness had continued in that leg. Our doctor felt that the replacement was not functioning properly, but specialist wouldn’t hear of that being an issue. He wasn’t much help and could only come up with suggesting that the leg artery might be blocked like the heart one had been. We came away with our previous impressions confirmed – that he might have to replace hips for the sake of his bottom line, but he was really only interested in the more acclaimed role of fixing up sports stars, especially footballers. John decided he would just have to put up with it.

In the aftermath of John’s surgery, we decided that, for him, our style of caravanning was no longer feasible. There was too much “heavy” work involved, and he was – for the first time ever – finding Truck uncomfortable to drive in traffic. The cold and wet winter trip had been uncomfortable, confined as we often were, to just the van.

We agreed to wait until next year to clean up and sell the van – just in case we had second thoughts when John was stronger. It would be a hard final decision to make – the van had been such an integral part of our lives for the past fourteen years.

From the tropical north…..
……to the cooler island in the south……
…..to the coasts…..
…….to the outback ranges………..and all points in between


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2011 Travels July 30

SATURDAY 30 JULY     HAMILTON TO HOME     350kms

With little packing up to do, we were able to give Couey a good walk and ball romp out on the grass.

Before leaving town, we drove to the Woolworths servo that John had sussed out when we were there yesterday. No issues going through with the van on the back.

Travelled the Hamilton Highway eastwards, past the scenic southern end of the Grampians and through the rejuvenated Dunkeld. The route was a very familiar one to us both, as John  taught at Mooralla for a year, way, way back. I knew the order of the towns and hamlets off by heart. Some of them had not changed much.

The route through central Ballarat before we reached the Western Highway was really tedious, not helped by late Saturday morning traffic. Some sort of a through route that bypassed the main part of the town was long overdue.

Stopped at a service centre near Ballan to eat our packed lunch.

I still don’t like crossing the reservoir at Pykes Creek! The road upgrades really have not made it any better, for me, Heights over water – bit of a phobia.

Apart from that, the Western Highway/Freeway was now so good. I recollect the “old days” when it took at least an hour from the outskirts of Ballarat, to Footscray.

We took the Western Ring Road, avoiding the crawl through Carlton that is the annoying “gap” between the freeways to the west and east. Good idea, in theory, but I came unstuck in practice, once the Ring Road ended at Greensborough, That was another place in Melbourne where one transitioned from a faster road – on the weekend, at least – to slower suburban roads. I got a bit confused with the navigating and we ended up on roller coaster back roads around Kangaroo Ground, eventually finding our way through to Warrandyte. The driver was not happy!

Reached home mid-afternoon. We put in a big unpacking effort and got most of it done, quite quickly.

Treated ourselves to a take away tea from the local Chinese. John enjoyed his lemon chicken, but my sweet and sour pork was overcooked and dry – disappointing.

Thus, another little expedition in the van ended. Only two weeks away – brief, by our standards. It definitely showed that mid-winter is not the greatest time for travels in southern Victoria.


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2011 Travels July 29

FRIDAY 29 JULY     HAMILTON

First thing in the morning, I went to the park office and booked a second night. There was some sort of rather weird discount system applicable, because I paid only $30.60 for this night, after a $7.40 discount.

Chatted for a while with the park owner. He told me about a new caravan park chain that was about to start up – a really dog-friendly one. That sounded both interesting and overdue. It  annoyed me no end, that the other major park chain to which we once belonged, and used a lot, had a no dog policy. The reality was that there were increasing numbers of travellers with dogs and, to me, it made sound business sense to recognize this and cater for it.

He also mentioned that the Halls Gap to Dunkeld road had been closed for much of this year, due to landslips, and this had impacted badly on tourism to Hamilton, it being a convenient stop between Halls Gap and the coast.

Couey had a morning walk along the creek trail.

The Grange Burn by the caravan park

After John got going, we walked to the Woolworths complex. When I first moved to Hamilton, the commercial focus was in Gray Street, a block to the north, where the two old department stores and what passed for supermarket, were almost opposite each other. Then Coles set up not far from them. The Woolworths development happened after I left, but clearly, the main street was no longer central to commerce in the town.

John found a games shop there, too, so I waited with dog while he browsed in there.

After lunch back at the van, we went walking along the creek track, but the other way this time, under the highway overpass and towards Lake Hamilton.

From the creek path, I could just see the spires of St Mary’s Catholic Church up on its hill, and a glimpse of the top of the towered house that had been my home for a while.

The spire of the church across from my old home; Lake Hamilton

I realized that, in a few months, it will be thirty years since I left Hamilton, after living there for thirteen years. No wonder the town had seemed altered!

More dog ball games on the grass near the park, then back to the van for the rest of the day.

Sausages and vegies and eggs for tea.


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2011 Travels July 28

THURSDAY 28 JULY     BEACHPORT TO HAMILTON     212kms

The morning was cold, again, but the day cleared to sunny, though it still was not warm.

Had a little accident when packing up camp in the morning. John took the guy ropes off the poles that support the awning roof. The wind suddenly blew a huge gust, picked up the canvas roof and blew it right upwards. We were able to grab it and make a two person job of finishing packing it away, but a fastening bracket had been pulled loose from the van.

As we set off out of Beachport, we decided to just head for home, rather than meandering around any more. Had enough of the cold and damp. I thought, also, that John was worried about his breathing issues, though he wasn’t saying so. My shoulder continued to be quite painful. Caravan life didn’t seem to agree with it, again. As well, we were finding that a rather large, often damp dog and a rather small caravan were not the greatest match – well behaved though the dog was.

Travelled east through Penola, to Casterton and to Hamilton, through attractive country. There was lots of surface water lying about.

Typical country around Casterton

We stopped in Penola to eat the lunch I’d packed this morning, and give Couey a walk around. Had we been meandering, would have though strongly about a couple of nights here, to investigate both the interesting history aspects, and the terra rossi red wine country around Coonawarra.

East of Penola, the remnant coastal country was left behind and we were onto the volcanic plains of the Western District again. The big red gums that are a feature of these parts began to appear, as did more pine plantations.

After Casterton, the country was so familiar, from the years lived at Hamilton.

Booked into the Lake Hamilton Caravan Park, where we had stayed before, for one night. En-suite site cost $37.80, after a $4.20 discount. It was adequate.

There was not much setting up for a one night stay, as we were able to remain hitched up.

Hamilton site

I left John making a repair to the awning fastening with silicon and other bits from his travelling tool supplies, and took dog walking. There was a very pleasant walk/bike path alongside the Grange Burn creek that was next to the caravan park, so we followed that for some way to the south, then backtracked. I kept Couey firmly on her leash, with the creek nearby.

After a rest back at the caravan park, John decided the grassed area between the park and the walk path would be good for some off lead ball throwing for dog, so we both went and did that. She was too focussed on the ball to show any interest in the water. To date, it seemed that it was only large puddles that interested her, the muddier the better.

I made my old faithful tuna, olives, capers, tomato pasta meal with tinned apricots to follow.

Discussion after dinner centred around returning back through Melbourne on a Friday. Driver definitely not keen, so we decided to wait until Saturday for that. It seemed easiest to stay another night here, if we could, rather than hitch up and go elsewhere for just that time.


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2011 Travels July 27

WEDNESDAY 27 JULY     BEACHPORT

The day was fine but even colder. When I took Couey out for her first walk in the morning, there was ice on the boardwalk! The wind continued to be freezing.

Site with a view

After breakfast, John took dog walking through the canal and lake scrub tracks. She managed to find some animal’s manure to roll in. Did a thorough job – both sides. I hoped she’d enjoyed the freedom roll, because she certainly didn’t enjoy the cold hosing down she got, back at camp! Then, John played ball retrieving games with her for a while, to speed up the drying out process. I walked her around the streets, on the lead, to do my part for the dog drying.

John found the coolant level in Truck was down, so went off down the street to get some more. Whilst there, he felt the urge to visit the bakery and came back with a pastie for his lunch, and a Boston bun.

It was a bit of a concern that Truck coolant level was down. We hadn’t exactly been driving in hot weather! Having spent about $15,000 in the past couple of years, having the vehicle thoroughly repaired, things should be working perfectly.

After lunch we went for a drive, back out along the Scenic Drive.

I took some photos.

From the end of the Scenic Drive, John decided to venture along a 4WD track off into the dunes. It was loose and sandy and I was not happy. Just not in a mood to put up with getting bogged, like he had managed to do on some previous forays into sand. So, he soon turned round and we went back to camp.

Tea was Mongolian lamb and rice.

Our week here was up, tomorrow, and we decided to move on. Thought we’d head NE from here, up through Lucindale to Naracoorte. I’d be able to show John where I taught for a year. We would pass the little shearer’s cottage, out on the Conmurra road, where I’d lived – in somewhat primitive conditions: generator power and tank water. When the generator ran out of petrol at about 9.30 at night, it was bedtime. A weekly chore was to try to dig a hole to bury the contents of the toilet bucket – and the cottage was on a low limestone ridge with little soil! The conditions that teachers put up with in those days…….


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2011 Travels July 26

TUESDAY 26 JULY     BEACHPORT

Another mostly fine but bloody cold day – a really chilly wind blew all day.

We’d fallen into the habit of doing the same walk every morning now, with dog – path, canal, bush.

Beachport Lake

 Given the weather, we were not motivated to do much today. John spent most of the time on his laptop, playing games, I read and did some crochet of an afghan rug I was making for grand daughter.

Stirred myself to make some flatbreads to have for lunch, with a nice warm soup – from tin!

Typical of the older limestone buildings in town

Our most direct route to the amenity block involved going down the grassed slope from the upper terraced level our van was on. We were both noticing that John was having difficulty walking back up the slope again. Just the short uphill part – maybe ten steps – was leaving him breathless. Today, he actually had to stop for a breather half way up. Very concerning. He reckoned it was just due to the cold air affecting his breathing. Hmmm…..

I crumbed some fish for tea. From the freezebox, not caught by us – John had not been motivated to unpack the fishing gear, here.


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2011 Travels July 25

MONDAY 25 JULY     BEACHPORT

Today was mostly fine, but with predominantly grey skies, and it was cold.

The dog’s morning walk was along the path, over the canal and around some of the bush tracks in the canal and lake area. Once she was off the lead it was impossible to stop her from cavorting in the large puddles formed in wheel ruts on the tracks.

We drove to Robe, almost 50kms away. The road went inland, to skirt the eastern sides of several large lakes formed behind the coastal dunes. The retreating coastlines and resulting parallel dune systems have meant there is no normal drainage systems across such of the South East of SA. Instead, lots of man made drains were dug, over time, to drain the swamps and improve the country for grazing and farming. One of these was Drain L – no fancy names here – that we crossed a couple of times on the outskirts of Robe.

Drain L near Robe

Like Beachport, Robe is an historic settlement, dating from the 1840’s. Lots of old stone buildings to see, as we cruised around the streets. On a warmer day, it would have been pleasant to walk around, looking more closely at some of these.

We parked near the Obelisk and did venture out of Truck to wander around this area.

Robe coast

The Obelisk was a stone tower, built on Cape Dombey, to help ships navigate in Guichen Bay, where Robe is, in 1855. It was eventually painted with red stripes, to help it stand out from the land background.

Robe Obelisk being undercut by coastal erosion

Given the extent of coastal erosion we could see, it looked like the Obelisk would not last another hundred plus years, without being totally undermined.

A precarious situation..
More modern aid to navigation in Guichen Bay

Back in the town, we parked and went walking, with dog, and found a bakery, where John was able to indulge in a pie, and me in a very nice salad roll. Dog got nothing except a drink of water; only two meals a day for her and very strictly no “people food”. Except for when she manages to scavenge something like a dropped scrap of pie crust!

We made a point of driving past the main caravan parks and checking them out. Still hadn’t decided on our next move. Decided that. although Robe was a larger centre than Beachport, we were happy there, and saw no reason to make Robe our next destination. Unless the weather improved radically, the day trip was sufficient.

Rain clouds and sunshine over Guichen Bay

My map showed a dirt track from Robe along the coast to the hamlet of Nora Creina, which I had never been to, and a loop back to the sealed road. From the time, in 1968 when I lived in the South East, I had wondered who Nora was, but eventually discovered that the Nora Creina was a ship wrecked in the area. I found the name rather romantic and would have liked to see the place, but John was not feeling adventurous and just wanted to go back the known way.

We did, however, make a short detour to look at the Woakwine Cutting – essentially a very large ditch. Another drainage line, this cutting was carved, using a large tractor, for a km through a big sand dune range. Part of it is over 28 metres deep. A very big ditch!

I made a lemongrass pork stir fry for tea, with rice.


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2011 Travels July 24

SUNDAY 24 JULY     BEACHPORT

Another damp day, but there were some  breaks between rainy periods. It was rather cold.

We managed to get in a reasonable dog walk along the bay path to the channel and back to the shops and around to the park – a big circuit. Even John was not prepared to take dog over into the scrub – and puddles – area.

After lunch, went driving again. This time, we skirted Rivoli Bay to the south, around to the hamlet of Southend, on the other side of the bay.

I’d not been there before. My tourist information mentioned a couple of caravan parks and I was curious to see if it was a possible next place to stay. In short, no.

Southend was very much a village of holiday houses and not many permanent dwellers. Beachport was like a metropolis by comparison – and infinitely more attractive. We stopped briefly at a couple of vantage points looking across the bay and township.

Rivoli Bay at Southend

There was a curved jetty, with a set of tracks on it for transporting gear and catches more easily from shore to boats. Again, a crayfishing place, in the season, with a small processing building near the jetty.

We concluded that Beachport was definitely the better end of Rivoli Bay at which to stay.

John had baked beans on toast for tea; I had some salad.

Southend from the other side of Rivoli Bay