This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2004 Travels August 30

MONDAY 30 AUGUST   SANDSTONE TO LAVERTON   405kms

It was another early departure from camp, on a cold morning.

The road east to Leinster was excellent.

We drove into the settlement, which was off the through road, for fuel, and to have a look around. It was a purpose built modern mining town, similar to Tom Price. There were lots of trees growing, though, and it was quite a pleasant place.

Fuel was $1.22 cpl.

Then we headed southwards, to Leonora.

The country had enough jump ups and breakaways to keep from being monotonous. There were still lots of wildflowers and generally green bush.

We had a quick walk around in Leonora. This was another of the old gold mining towns of the 1890’s. We visited the Tourist Information Centre.

Leonora was renowned for the great Sons of Gwalia gold mine.

We drove out to Gwalia – the old mining settlement, now a ghost town, established around the mine, on the outskirts of Leonora. The mine began in the 1890’s, and lasted until 1963. Herbert Hoover was an early mine administrator here, before he went on to become President of the USA.

We spent over an hour at the mining/historical museum at Gwalia. It was quite fascinating and I certainly could have used more time there.

We were shown over Hoover House – the former mine manager’s residence.It was quite grand, especially for these parts. It had now been turned into a B&B establishment, and was quite well done.

I loved the little miners’ cottages there, that were now being done up by some locals.

The Sons of Gwalia mining company revived mining at Gwalia, in the 1980’s. They went for open pit mining, and so there was now an impressively deep pit there, where the first mines were shafts.

Ironically, just as we were driving into Leonora, we’d heard on the radio news that the Sons of Gwalia company was going into administration! That probably would not bode well for the future of the revived operation.

Got fuel at Leonora – $1.16cpl. In these parts, we were topping up wherever we could.

I had hoped to stay at Leonora overnight, so we could have more of a look around the area, but John decided we would push on to Laverton.

Laverton was another town dating from the gold finds of the 1890’s. It still serviced mines around the district, as well as the surrounding cattle stations, and the local aboriginal communities.

Topped up the fuel again there – $1.21cpl.

Went into the privately owned Laverton Caravan Park for the night – $22. Bit costly, although the park was quite pleasant.

We were able to stay hitched up.

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Laverton Caravan Park

Went for a short walk around the town. A little bit of exercise, after a long day spent mostly driving.

It was a cold night.

Watched the last of the Olympic stuff on TV. Thank heavens!

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2004 Travels August 29

SUNDAY 29 AUGUST   GERALDTON TO SANDSTONE   510kms

John had insisted that we set the alarm, so as to get an early start. It went off before 7am. We were back driving by 7.30.

Nice day today – chilly to start, but with blue skies.

From Geraldton, headed west. Again, this was country we had travelled before, as far as Mt Magnet. Back in ’93 we had driven that route, and earlier this year we went as far as Mullewa.

There were lots of wildflowers in the wheat belt country, out to beyond Mullewa. They became fewer once we transitioned to the mulga country, before Yalgoo. But it was a pretty drive.

We had a quick look around Yalgoo. Back in ’93, after John “caught” the gold bug, we had camped here for a few nights – in a no-star caravan facility. Now, the new caravan park looked fine. It had to be an improvement on where we stayed before!

Yalgoo seemed tidier than I recollected. We refuelled here – $1.19cpl.

Stopped at Mt Magnet to eat our packed lunch. Topped up the fuel there – $1.22cpl.

There was a convoy of huge loads assembling at the Mt Magnet Roadhouse. We were told that police would escort the convoy northwards. It looked like mining gear.

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The Oversize sign does not really seem adequate

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The road to Sandstone, from Mt Magnet, was lovely to travel. It appeared to have been rather recently sealed. There was not much variety in the scenery. There were just enough very low hills and scrub covered dunes to stop it being flat.

The Sandstone Caravan Park charged us $16 for the night. There was no paper in the Ladies’ toilets, and they were a bit grubby, though not very old.

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Sandstone Caravan Park

We were able to stay hitched up.

Went for a walk to have a look around the township. It looked to have some interesting historical aspects, but having dawdled for the Olympics, we now had no time to stay and investigate. That was rather a pity. It would have been much better to have had more time for this segment of the trip. There were some dramatic rock formations in the area, apparently.

Sandstone had some very attractive old buildings. The town dated back to the early 1900’s, when the whole region was subject to gold rushes and mining.

As we walked, John attracted a very friendly little dog that persisted in accompanying us. But the town was not very large, and his owner found him, as we walked around.

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John and friendly dog

Today it was announced that there would be a federal election on 9 October. We would be home by then. I wondered if it would be too late, by the time we got home, to arrange to work in a polling booth on the day? I always found the work interesting, and the money didn’t go astray, either.

It was a very cold night.

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2004 Travels August 28

SATURDAY 28 AUGUST   CARNARVON TO GERALDTON   480kms

We were driving out of town about 8.30am.

There had been some short but heavy showers as we finalized the pack up – a personalized farewell from Carnarvon!

Today’s was a fair old drive, in terms of distance, but routine. All done before.

There was a head wind, all day, which was a bit tedious, and chewed up the fuel.

There were wonderful wildflower displays all the way, which made the drive more interesting.

There was quite a lot of surface water still lying about.

The Galena free camp area, by the Murchison River, looked pleasant for an overnight stop. It was very large.

We passed a stone wall/”gateway” at the turn off to Shark Bay and Denham. Was that there before? I could not remember.

In view of the head wind, thought we should top up the fuel at the Billabong Roadhouse – $1.20cpl. Not too bad.

At Geraldton, went into Sunset Beach Caravan Park, for the night. It was a Big 4 and after discount cost $17.65. It was really nothing special. I thought Drummond Cove might have been a better place to stay.

The mandarins we bought from Morels a couple of days ago were all going bad. It looked like we got a dud lot. They were probably windfalls. I was very annoyed about that – hate feeling that I’d been conned!

Refuelled and also filled the jerry can – $1.12cpl.

Bought fish and chips for tea. We’d had to unhitch anyway – no drive through sites – so going out to buy these was not an issue.

It was a really cold night – down to about 4 degrees! We were not used to this.

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2004 Travels August 27

FRIDAY 27 AUGUST     CARNARVON

Yesterday ended our second week of camping here, so the rate for tonight went up to $17.

Cleaned and packed up the outside stuff.

Drove into town to pick up my photos. There was still no faxed permit. This delay was normal, from what I heard. It was not going to deter us – I had tried to do the right thing.

Refuelled truck – $1.14cpl.

We had a farewell drink with E and D. It had been pleasant to spend some time with them, here.

My back was hurting – think I kinked it when doing the cleaning!

There were showers of rain through the evening. Last time we left here, it was wet, too.

John actually said that he wished we were going out to the Blowholes to camp for a while! This amazed me – I’d have thought it was too basic for him. Tempting as the idea was, for me too, we only now had about three weeks before the time we’d told L we would be home. This year, the timing could not be flexible, as she was moving back home to Nowra. John wanted to visit his family in Canberra, on the (roundabout) way home, too.


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2004 Travels August 26

THURSDAY 26 AUGUST     CARNARVON

I did the washing.

Drove into town, where I did food shopping.

Put in a final film roll for processing. The travel permit from Alice Springs had not arrived by fax, yet.

We bought a big bag of mandarins at Morels – a farm outlet.

I took back the library books.

After lunch, John and D bowled.


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2004 Travels August 25

WEDNESDAY 25 AUGUST     CARNARVON

The day was very windy.

We drove out to the north west, to Quobba Station and the Blowholes. This entailed going back out the highway, to the north, for about 15kms, then taking the Point Quobba road for about another 60kms.

The drive was through rather monotonous country – quite bleak and arid looking. There were areas of very low plants, with bare ground between them, interspersed with large swampy, washout sections, mostly dry, that were arms of the land locked Lake McDonald.

Out at the Blowholes area, there were posted warnings about the dangers of king waves – sudden waves that came right up onto what looked like safe ground above the cliffs. These had drowned a number of people, over the years. So we were rather cautious about going too close to the cliff edges, particularly given the conditions.

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Waves breaking onto the land

The Blowholes were supposed to be really spectacular, shooting water up from cracks in the cliffs, to considerable height.

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Conditions today were causing huge waves to break on the cliffs, shooting plumes of spray really high into the air. Because of this, and our reluctance to go too close, it was hard to tell what spray came from breaking waves and what from the blowholes. Regardless, it was very spectacular – and noisy – illustrating the power of the ocean.

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After we’d watched waves and blows for a while, drove a km south along the coast, to where there was a primitive camping area – more of a collection of rough shacks and camps, but with room for the casual camper. It would be alright for a future stay, though possibly rather dusty and exposed.

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Quieter seas near the camping area

Continued north, along the coast, for a few more kms, to Quobba Homestead, to check that out for a future trip. One could camp at the homestead, which looked alright – more sheltered than back at the Blowholes. Or there was camping 50kms further north, on the station, at Red Bluff. That seemed really interesting, too. But neither of these options was cheap – camping at Quobba was $18 a night.

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Quobba country

After that, we turned back to Carnarvon.

It was such a pleasure to get out and about, after all the sports watching.

Later, in the evening, the batteries were really low, so I had to turn the fridge off altogether for the rest of the night. John had not had the charger on as much as he should have, because it interfered with the TV picture quality! I was not happy!

 

 


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2004 Travels August 24

TUESDAY 24 AUGUST     CARNARVON

John and I practiced bowls at the park’s green. I had been having some pain in a knee for a while now, aggravated by exercise, and this made it hurt.

More TV Olympics – boring! Even John was losing interest now.

The  night was extremely windy. The van really rocked around.


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2004 Travels August 23

MONDAY 23 AUGUST     CARNARVON

We drove to the shops, in the morning.

John did a computer download.

I used the Internet at the film shop to apply for the necessary permits to cross aboriginal lands on the Great Central Road. The application for the WA section was transmitted to Perth, where it was filed, so that was all that was needed for that.

A second application went to Alice Springs, for the NT land section. They send out the permit, which one is meant to carry with them. I requested that it be faxed to the film shop here.

I bought prawns. They were so delicious, here.

More Olympics watching.


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2004 Travels August 22

SUNDAY 22 AUGUST     CARNARVON

Olympics watching as usual. There was just too much of it – full on. Too much coverage of sports that do not interest me – unfortunately, most of them! I could raise some interest in the swimming, although even that got a bit boring. The only other coverage that interested me was the equestrian events. All else quickly became tedious, for me.

Truck was done at 6pm. It had been nice of them to work on it on a Sunday.

The plane from Perth arrived at 3.15pm. I texted son that I’d just seen our new wheel bearings fly over! He didn’t understand, and phoned me immediately – he thought we’d been in an accident! Oops. Anyway, we had an enjoyable long talk.

It was great to have Truck back. Even though we were not doing much, it felt better to know we could! Pleasing, too, to know that truck should be fit for the journey home across the desert.

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Pleasantly shaded at Wintersun Caravan Park

At night, there was a very spectacular fireworks display, to end the Rodeo weekend.


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2004 Travels August 21

SATURDAY 21 AUGUST     CARNARVON

In the morning, I walked to Dewsons again, and bought The Australian paper.

The town was busier than normal – it was Rodeo weekend.

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Aerial of Carnarvon – from purchased postcard. Wintersun CP just inside left hand margin

Again, Truck would not be ready today – someone forgot to put the bearings on the plane! This saga was beginning to assume farcical aspects!

More TV Olympics.