MONDAY 23 NOVEMBER ATHERTON
Today was rather better weather.
When we were discussing, last night, what to do today, S expressed a wish to go to Chillagoe, which is also a place that we have not been. So we made a reasonably early start. Refuelled Truck – 66cpl.
First, we took S to the Fascinating Facets gift shop, at the Crystal Caves shop in Atherton. John thought, as she collects amethyst jewellery, she might be able to select a Xmas present from their extensive range. But she chose a necklace of coloured Chinese fresh water pearls, for which we paid $25.
Next stop was the Tolga wood gallery, S having received approval to buy the sculpture she likes so much. There was not much change from $1000! They packed it really well and we stored it carefully in Truck. I hope it can go as cabin luggage and not in the plane hold! It is delicate enough to be rather fragile.
Then it was on to Mareeba and west through Dimbulah towards Chillagoe. We were soon off the volcanic Tablelands and into the savannah woodland and grassland country, so S is getting some idea of that environment.
We stopped at Almaden for a look around. This is a small hamlet, rather like some we encountered on our Mt Surprise jaunt. It was once a significant rail junction town, where the line from Forsayth joined the Chillagoe line.
Before the Forsayth line was built, Almaden was a Cobb and Co depot, for the coach service from the railway here, to Georgetown. There are still a few houses and cattle roam the streets. The Savannahlander railway goes through here, so we parked near the little railway station. I found an unusual photo opportunity – mother cow feeding her calf, right outside the Ladies sign at the station! It seemed very “Australian outback”.
Almaden Railway Station and mother cow
The Burke Development Road was, by now, unsealed, but not too rough.
Chillagoe dates from a copper mining boom from the late 1870’s and in its heyday was a considerable mining centre, with a smelter. Gold, silver and lead were also found. It declined from about the 1920’s and is a quite small place these days.
The scenery around Chillagoe is quite dramatic. There is an unusual juxtaposition of ancient limestone reefs and volcanic features. It is from volcanic activity that the marble that is mined here derives.
The dominant feature of the town area is the ruins of the old State Smelter, built around 1900 and abandoned in the 1940’s. Although most of the associated buildings have crumbled, the big chimney stands, and there are plenty of relics around the site.
The State Smelter ruins. Main chimney and flue
Slag heaps at back
Boilers and main smelter chimney
We browsed around the smelter ruins for some time. There was a degree of stark beauty here.
Chimney of the pre-treatment plant – one of three remaining chimneys at the site
The power house chimney and the main chimney
The ruins alone made the effort to come out here worthwhile. But more was to come….
We drove the short distance to the Royal Arch Cave, to the south of Chillagoe, where John and S took the 90 minute guided tour of the Cave. I am not happy being underground, so I walked around up top, took photos, and then read while I waited. They came back saying the tour had been very interesting.
Next was the drive about 17kms west of the town, to the Mungana area with its excellent limestone formations. We explored the Archways here – like an open cave. We were the only people here. Close in to the limestone outcrops, the dry tropical woodland was broken up by the vivid green of vine thickets.
Back near Chillagoe, we visited Balancing Rock – an unusual formation in the limestone. One wonders how long it will stay there!
Balancing Rock
As we were driving back towards Atherton, John decided we would take the “back” route – turning off the Burke Development Road at Petford and coming via Irvinebank and Herberton. The unsealed road wound around through hilly and scrubby country, through an area that once contained a number of tin mines. S got a sample of outback rough roads! I found this a rather spooky route in the growing dusk, with some of the crumbling little settlements seeming quite sinister. I was quite relieved when we reached the comparative civilization of Herberton!
We got back to camp after dark, stopping in Atherton first to buy hamburgers for tea.
Tonight’s rain was much less and lighter.
Today was an extremely long day’s driving for John – we did 440kms.
Chillagoe was most interesting. I would like to go and camp there for a few days, sometime, and do a more thorough exploration of the area.
This Adventurous Age 