This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels July 4

SATURDAY 4 JULY     COOKTOWN

It is still really windy. I washed a few things.

I did a quick final shop for supplies. Bought the Weekend Australian – I am really impressed that it reaches Cooktown on Saturday.

I repacked some of the plastic crates to even out for the foodstuffs we have used here.

John went to bowls after lunch. My back is definitely healing, but not yet up to bowls. I am also conscious that packing up tomorrow may test it again. I read the paper and pottered.

The day became more overcast and there were a few drops of rain.

I cooked John’s fish for his tea. He found the Long Tom extremely bony, but ploughed on valiantly. I had cold chook.

The week in Cooktown has been very pleasant. I like this town. But can’t believe the price of real estate here. Ordinary houses are more expensive than our place at home! In a town that has lousy summer weather, can be cut off in the wet season, has only unsealed road access, and has cyclones. Unreal!


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1998 Travels July 3

FRIDAY 3 JULY     COOKTOWN

It was still very windy in the morning – really strong gusts with that loud roaring noise. It becomes wearing after a while. It seems to actually happen in narrow bands – can hear it coming, and brace for the onslaught, but then sometimes it blows in a nearby area and where we are is still. Very strange.

Lazed around camp in the morning – recovering from the marathon of yesterday.

After lunch, drove out to Archer Point – the track out there leaves the main road before Black Mountain.

Archer Point is a scenic place. There are huge hills coming down to the sea in both directions. A lot of tracks comb the headland. It is stony, low scrubby country. There is a light station up on the headland; there was a set of old cement stairs, unattached to anything, that were quite incongruous. Maybe they were remnants from an earlier lighthouse structure?

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Staircase to nowhere at Archer Point

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At Archer Point

John fished and caught a small something, and a long, thin fish we later identified as a Long Tom – had not seen one of those before.

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John with Long Tom and something else

While we have been travelling north, there has been much publicity and drama over two American divers who were “lost” by one of the charter boats operating out of Port Douglas, back in January. There seemed to be a degree of mystery attached to the disappearance of the honeymooning couple. A couple of days ago, a diver’s slate that may have belonged to one of them was found washed up here at Archer Point. There is now argument over whether this was “for real” or planted there.

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Outlook south at Archer Point – into the Daintree

I cooked a roast chook tea – a last treat for John and to make up for the egg debacle.


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1998 Travels July 2

THURSDAY 2 JULY      COOKTOWN

Today was warm and dry.

After much agonizing, this week, about the dilemma of the eggs left in the caravan pantry, today we set out to drive back to the van at Wonga, via the Bloomfield Track. This route is shorter – about half the distance – than the inland route. We had intended to come back this way, after the Cape trip; this is just an earlier experience of it! We will see the Track from both perspectives – coming and going.

We left Cooktown at 9am. Once we turned onto the unsealed road and passed the Lions Den Hotel, we were on new ground. And soon into the scrub and forest country for a while. Then we descended to the Bloomfield River and the tiny Ayton settlement. Just on from that, by the Wujal Wujal community, crossed the Bloomfield River on the dry causeway. This used to be a problem point on the Track, crossing the tidal stretch of the river, but with the causeway it is not an issue in the Dry. Then it was back into forest country and the Bloomfield Track proper.

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On the Bloomfield Track

Whilst there was an access road from the north, to Ayton and Wujal Wujal – i.e. as far as the Bloomfield River, that was it, until the early 1980’s when local councils wanted to put a road from the south to the river – to aid tourism and development. Because of the pristine nature of the rainforest, north of Cape Tribulation, there was a major environmentalist protest about the road. It was put through, anyway, although to minimize disturbance of the environment, it did not wind about as much as would be normal on some of the steep gradients. To prevent development of the newly opened area, the environment movement managed to have it declared a World Heritage Area.

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A steep section of the Bloomfield Track

So – south of the causeway over the Bloomfield River, the road was narrow, often bendy, and with a couple of really steep gradients. The Cowie Range was really steep. One tricky section had concrete like blocks laid up it, to ensure traction and prevent the track being churned up or eroded.  It is regarded as 4WD, so tourists can’t bring hire cars up here – only 4WD’s.

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Lookout over the mouth of the Daintree River

When we arrived at the caravan park, T was surprised to see us – then amused! P – a fellow camper we had gotten to know a bit, came charging over to see what was wrong.

We spent all of about 15 minutes at the van! Returned John’s printer and paper, having decided that a million corrugations may not be healthy for it. Collected forgotten items – THE EGGS, the small radio, a camera battery.

Got diesel at Wonga Beach servo. 71cpl.

Then headed back across the ferry and up the Track. Rather a costly lot of eggs, all things considering.

We got back to Cooktown at 5.45pm. So, we actually had about eight hours of driving on the Track! It is a slow road.

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My back now does seem to be improving, despite all the sitting in Truck today, and the jarring at times. John’s leg has been hurting a lot, due to the rough driving and innumerable gear changes the road demands. So I got to do some driving: Thornton Beach to Wonga on the way down – including onto the ferry! Then Wonga to the start of the 4WD stuff on the way back, then from Ayton to Cooktown.

I guess it is now “official” that we are going to try to complete the Cape trek.

It was still windy in Cooktown when we got back.

We bought fish and chips for tea.

It was a very tiring day.


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1998 Travels July 1

WEDNESDAY 1 JULY     COOKTOWN

The start of the new financial year.

My back was very tight, this morning, to the point where it hurt to sit and to drive. I went to the chemist for a repeat on my Brufen script and checked with him its compatibility with my blood pressure medication, Gopten. The Brufen may diminish its effectiveness – so be it! Without the anti-inflammatory, the pain would send my blood pressure up, anyway.

We have a sense that we will probably never return to Cooktown, and so want to see as much as possible whilst here.

We drove to Quarantine Bay. Saw another snake on the road. We have seen more reptiles here in two days than for the whole of the trip to date! Don’t like it.

Quarantine Bay was a pretty beach, with bush right down to the sand – which we are getting used to, here. Did not walk on it, due to back.

Drove back to the Annan River, where John wanted to try fishing off the bridge. I sat round in Truck and watched him. He could not stay too long, because of bowls this afternoon.

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The bridge over the Annan River

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John fishing from the Annan bridge – and vehicle crossing the single lane bridge

I did not go to bowls – John was not too happy about this, but I really am finding movement hard. I rested my back, in the tent. It was improving by night time. John was pleased with his bowling – and enjoyed meeting some of the locals at the club.

The wind came up again in the afternoon.

Tea was sausages served in slices of bread, with salad, followed by stewed apple and yoghurt.


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1998 Travels June 30

TUESDAY 30 JUNE     COOKTOWN

We had a touring day – another fine, sunny day.

Took a picnic lunch and drove to Keatings Lagoon, beside the main road, between the town and the Annan River. Purpose – bird watching. Took a short road from the main road to the carpark, then walked the 800metre track, via the bird hide, to its end at a picnic point.

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Keatings Lagoon from inside the bird hide

We made slow progress, stopping to look at birds in the bush, through the binoculars, pointing them out to each other, and slowly seeing how close we could get, to identify same.

At one point, whilst doing this, we were rushed at by a snake – maybe a metre long, thin, with a browny top and lime yellow belly. It stopped short of us – mind you, we skipped back pretty fast – then it waited by the track as we walked quickly past, as far from it as the vegetation would allow. Hoped it might prefer us to speed away, rather than try to inch past! It was a pretty aggressive message and we got a fright. Another life lesson – it is best to lower binoculars from eyes, when advancing upon a bird, and pay some attention to the ground level as well as the treetops.

At the Lagoon, we saw Jacana birds, amongst others. These birds have huge feet and can walk on slightly submerged lily leaves, and the like – giving them the appearance of walking on water. Hence, they are also called Jesus birds. Overall, there was not the populations of water birds here that I had expected.

Back to Truck and our next stop – at Black Mountain. Crossed back over that single lane bridge over the Annan, on the way.

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The Annan River and Mt Cook – looking downstrean from the bridge

At Black Mountain, we looked at the information boards, but did not go scrambling up amongst the boulders. The mountain consists of large, loose, jumbled, granite boulders; a type of algae growing on their surface makes them look black. As there is no soil or similar between the rocks, it looks a bit like some giant hands have dumped them there. I found it an eerily unpleasant place and can see why the legends of lost people and the like have grown up. Apparently, there are big hollows, caves and passages amongst the jumbled boulders that might account for some of the strange noises that have been heard here, and maybe the missing people also. I didn’t like it at all!

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Black Mountain

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We drove on to the “little” Annan River, which is simply that river, but in a smaller form, where the road crosses it, some 30kms from Cooktown. I wanted to come here to look at the falls, upstream from the bridge, and the gorge, downstream. This was a pleasant place, with a  few potentially good bush camp spots. We had our lunch there and walked to both features. The gorge is a very narrow little chasm through the rock.

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Falls on the Little Annan River

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The gorge on the Little Annan River – and the road bridge

Between the Little Annan and Black Mountain is where the Bloomfield Track route emerges onto the main road. A little way along this road – here the Helenvale Road – is the Lions Den Hotel. This hotel dates from the Palmer River gold rush days, and is a “must do” for travellers on the Bloomfield Track – and for other travellers in these parts. We each had a beer – expensive at $6.60 for us both – but we can now say we’ve had a drink at the iconic Lions Den Hotel!

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The iconic Lions Den Hotel

We saw a big, thick, slaty coloured python (we think) sunbaking by the side of the road near the Lions Den.

It has been very much a wildlife day, today. This morning, I got a real fright when I went to open the back door of Truck. That recessed handle area is an attractive hidey place for all sorts of undesirables, it seems – in this instance, one nasty looking spider that did not like being disturbed! Got to remember to be careful in the future, and look first before going to open door.

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Back in Cooktown, I had another film processed – from the “instant” camera – because the shop here seems to do such a good job. Having had some batches of photos processed rather unsatisfactorily, I am a bit fussy these days. The business is for sale for $130,000, as the owner wants to retire. That seems a lot to me, for a place where the trade has got to be very seasonal, but he says his profit is about $50,000 a year.

I bought some meat for tea and a few other grocery items.

Tea was camp-made hamburgers.

The wind that was around earlier in the day dropped in the afternoon. There were many flying ant type bugs around the camp, so many that we sat out in darkness after tea, as they were everywhere and the light brought them in. Seems the wind serves some purpose – what a choice: a noisy gale that threatens to bring down trees, or a plague of bugs!


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1998 Travels June 29

MONDAY 29 JUNE     COOKTOWN

We had a relaxed day, today, enjoying the sunshine and the laid-back air of the town. Watched the many birds that inhabit the caravan park.

This is the start of the 26th week of our trip – half a year, already!

We went for a walk around some of the streets and tracks near the caravan park, which is on the eastern edge of the town, where it merges into the forested slopes of Mount Cook. The neighbourhood is a mix of houses, vacant blocks, and bush.

Drove to the shops for bread for lunch, to the PO to check and where there was a letter from R. I found a camera shop/film processor and put in the roll of film I finished up on Grassy Hill. Went to the bowls club, where there was life, after all, and John booked us in for bowls on Wednesday afternoon.

After lunch, went for a drive to Finch Bay. That road skirts the southern side of the Botanic Gardens – which appear to be mostly bushland. At Finch Bay, we walked on the little beach.

Then drove back into town again, parked Truck and walked along some of Charlotte Street – the main street – looking at some of the beautiful old buildings there. Cooktown began, as a port, when gold was found at the inland Palmer River, in the 1870’s and there are a few substantial buildings that have survived from those times.

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Some of Cooktown’s grand old buildings

We browsed in the Croc Shop, where I bought a Cape York map. There is no shortage of tourist souvenirs up this way! Apparently there is another Croc Shop, too – on the Cape, half way between Bamaga and the Tip. There is a sign in the window of the Croc Shop that warns of a million corrugations in the road between Cooktown and the Tip of Cape York! I hope not.

Collected my photos – the man did an excellent job – which covered the time from our day at Wangetti Beach, till here.

Drove up Grassy Hill again, to watch the sunset. Was worth doing. Being on the east coast, this was not a sun set into the ocean, but a fading of the light to soft pinks, greys, blues, very muted and gentle.

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Looking along the coastline at dusk, from Grassy Hill

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The sun setting over the Battlecamp Range – from Grassy Hill

There was no wind at the caravan park tonight, so it is not a daily event, after all.

Tea was a risotto – pumpkin, sage, olives and parmesan. Not bad – but probably more to my taste than John’s! It was followed by some paw paw I bought today.

My knee seems a bit better – at least I have managed today’s fairly modest activities – and the back seems to be improving.

John is cross that we did not bring the caravan up here and so have more comfort here. But we had to take to the tent sooner or later, and I am very happy with our secure Wonga van storage.


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1998 Travels June 28

SUNDAY 28 JUNE      COOKTOWN

We had a very slow start to the day. My lower back was sore, from yesterday’s mishap, so I took a couple of the Brufen pills that I carry for this eventuality.

Drove down town to the newsagent, for a paper. Drove past the bowls club – naturally – where John checked out a sign that gave the details of their playing times. One of these was Sunday afternoon at 1pm, so he decreed that we would bowl – despite my sore back!

Then drove up Grassy Hill, to the lookout on top. We were absolutely amazed – there was the most incredible panorama over the town and the Endeavour River. This would have to be one of the best views in Australia! The river is a big one, and winds off in the distance towards ranges.

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Endeavour River and Battlecamp Range from Grassy Hill

We are conscious that, in a short while, if things work out, we will be heading into those ranges.

The town’s buildings cluster beneath the hill, between it and the river. There were lots of boats moored in the river.

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Central Cooktown from Grassy Hill.

There was a strangely shaped cloud hanging over Mt Cook, behind us, looking for all the world like a flying saucer! The film “Independence Day” came to mind.

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The Space Invaders have arroved!

There is much Cook memorabilia around the town, for obvious reasons. It was in the Endeavour River, here in 1770, that Captain Cook beached his damaged Endeavour ship, for repairs after it was damaged on a reef further south. One can see how the Endeavour River provided him with such a great, sheltered place to carry out his ship repairs. However, it does not answer one question that bothers historians: did he just get lucky when he continued on north, apparently into unknown waters, after the Endeavour was holed – or did he know from a secret Portuguese map made by de Medonca in 1522, that there was this ideal careening place ahead?

The historian in me looked down from Grassy Hill and tried to imagine the encampment of British sailors, down beside the river.

Back to the tent, for a rushed lunch, so we could get to the bowls club by 1pm. There was no one else there, thus it was deduced, no bowls. Can’t say I was disappointed.

Left Truck at the bowls club and walked along the river foreshore area – the harbour, I guess. There were boats there advertising charters, both out to sea for fishing, and up the river sightseeing. There were also some rather decrepit looking boats and some rather rough looking people. It crosses my mind that, if one does not want to be found, Cooktown is probably a pretty good place to hide away – and life on an old boat would be cheap.

We followed the waterside road around as far as the old Powder Magazine (explosives store), on the northern base of Grassy Hill. This dates from the 1870’s, when there were explosives being brought in for use on the Palmer River goldfields, and there was need for safe storage of same. It is being restored.

As we walked, looked at houses perched up on the slopes above the river, saying what unsurpassed views they had, looking north along the coast, or west up the river towards the ranges. Reckon I could live with those, though one might feel a tad exposed in a cyclone?

Walked back to where Truck was parked by the bowls club, then drove to the supermarket, in the main street, for a few groceries and – principally – half a dozen cans of cold beer. The weather is making this seem like a desirable drink!

Back to camp. About 4pm, with a roar like an express train, which really startled us, the wind arrived! It blew strongly into the night. This was happening when we arrived yesterday, too, and we started to wonder if it was a daily event. It was really loud through the big paperbarks around us.

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The big tent set up at Cooktown. The awning has attachable side flaps for extra shade or shelter from the elements. The front door is full width – here partly tied up

Despite the wind, John went fishing, just on dark, down at the Esplanade area. No joy.

Tea was squid in a lime/chilli ginger sauce, with rice.

The knee that I landed on when I tripped yesterday is swollen and sore, as well as my back. The latter is really stiffening up, making movement uncomfortable. I need to think before making any move! I am really cross that I have done this, and can’t help thinking about Tasmania in 1993, when back landed me in hospital. I couldn’t bear it, if this stuffs up this part of our trip!


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1998 Travels June 27

SATURDAY 27 JUNE   WONGA BEACH TO COOKTOWN   297kms

We were up at 7am, as there was still so much packing to do. At least, we had a lovely fine, warm day.

We packed up the van, put away the awning inside the van, and John backed the van into the storage space allocated by T, next to another stored van, and right by his and C’s camp. Squeezing into this tight space was managed easily with T’s directions. John then took off the heavy hitch from the back of Truck – another item to go in the van.

Truck seems very full! It was a wrench to leave the van for such a potentially long time – maybe a couple of months. The last bit of packing was to put the bikes inside the van, standing up in the central aisle. We figure the nature of Cape tracks will not encourage their use.

We left at 11.30am. We are finally away on this year’s big adventure. I feel a mix of trepidation and anticipation. We are stepping out of what has become our comfort zone.

Our first destination is Cooktown, the isolated town on the coast to the north of here. It is of tourist interest, mostly due to its history, and will be a good place to stay for a short time, to make sure we are ready to continue on.

We drove to Mossman, stopping at a fruit place near there, to buy some fruit and vegies, then in the town itself, for cash money, a phone card and a paper. Got diesel – 72cpl.

Just south of Mossman, took the link road, through Julatten, to the Peninsula Development Road. The road climbed the forested range – the usual winding, fairly narrow, but sealed, road up the mountains. It levelled off after Julatten, by which time we were in farmland. Just north of Mt Molloy township, we joined the road north.

We stopped for lunch at the McLeod River, a few kms north of Mt Carbine. It was a pleasant spot by a little flowing stream, with the only facility being a rubbish bin.

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Our lunch stop at the McLeod River – and the loaded-up Truck

Our next stop was at the Palmer River Roadhouse. This was most interesting. It is run by a fairly adventurous type who had been a croc hunter. He has collected a varied lot of bits and pieces, typical of the area. There were a few van spots there, overlooking the Palmer River.

We bought a cold drink each, and I bought a fridge magnet. I like these unusual ones from places most people have never heard of!

After Palmer River, the road was unsealed for most of the way, but mostly reasonable going. Up and over the Byerstown Range was a bit rough, and we got stuck behind a mustering truck, so it was slow – and dusty! We did stop at a lookout point that gave a huge vista over the vast and rugged countryside.

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The country north of the Palmer River – from the top of the Byerstown Range. That’s where we are going.

We did not stop at Lakeland – a small settlement, where the road up the Cape turns off from the Cooktown road. Nor did we stop at the striking looking Black Mountain.

The bridge over the wide Annan River, not far from Cooktown, was a single-lane, elevated causeway-like affair, and quite long.

In Cooktown, we went straight to the Peninsula Caravan Park, which is the only one described in any detail in my Cape York “bible” – the book written by Viv and Ron Moon. It mentions two other parks by name only, but recommends the Peninsula as shady and pleasant. It cost $15 a night, with the 7th night free. We took a week, because we need to see if John’s hip will be ok for us to continue on. He is still not sure.

I found the park to be a very sprawling and rather strange place. There were lots of large, tree-sized paperbarks. There was a part that was kind of formally laid out, but mostly it was scrappy; there were some cement slabs around, but with little seeming order. The amenities were older and a bit scruffy.

We found a spot that seemed alright, in amongst the melaleucas, but with a bit of a walk to the toilets!

We set our camp up fully – and it was well after dark by the time it was done.

Whilst carrying the fridge from Truck to tent, I tripped on the edge of a slab, hidden amongst leaves and debris. I went down hard, managing to protect the fridge, but twisted my back, and shook myself up a bit.

Tea was the chicken marylands I cooked yesterday, and salads.

I realize that I have forgotten our small radio – which can be a means of keeping in touch with the world, but which may not receive much out in the wilds. So that is no big deal. More serious is the realization that I have left a dozen eggs in the van’s pantry cupboard! We discuss what the van will be like if these “cook” in the tropical heat in the sealed-up van, and explode. This is not good – with hindsight, maybe we should have left some keys with T. We will think more about it tomorrow!

We now have no TV, of course, but we really need an early night, after the efforts of the past couple of days, so we head for bed not long after tea. Back on the lilo!

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1998 Travels June 26

FRIDAY 26 JUNE     WONGA BEACH

John resumed tax and financial work in the morning. This meant that I could not do much in the way of packing, as going in and out the van door, past him, would have been too distracting.Rather than just jotting notes on paper for the accountant, he is determined to do it all on the laptop, making spreadsheets and the like, which has been very time consuming.

In the afternoon, we were able to get onto the packing and organising the switch from van to Truck based camping. At least, we have done this once before, for Fraser Island, so it should – in theory – be a bit easier! But this time, we are going away for a lot of weeks! That means more food supplies, more clothes – and thinking of things we will not be able to buy when remote.

John was feeling under pressure and was not very happy. He is worried that his hip will not stand up to the extended camping period, with its attendant packing and unpacking. I tell him that I am quite capable of doing the brunt of it, but he does not find it easy to be helped like that.

One of the packing tasks was to move the spare wheel that is normally on the back of the van, onto the roof rack of Truck. That way, we will have two spare wheels with us. When we had the van built, we deliberately had them fit it with Defender wheels, so we could use the spare this way.

We also packed the two metal jerry cans that are usually in their carriers on the back of the van (again, installed as part of the build, so their weight when loaded was taken into account in the build) onto the roof rack. They will start out empty and be filled at a time when we may need extra fuel. We always have one plastic 20L jerry can full of diesel in the back of Truck. Heavy work and not good for John’s leg.

I defrosted the fridge, so that when we turn it off again, in the morning, there will be almost no defrost water to accumulate.

I packed our fruit and vegetable supplies by wrapping each piece individually in torn up newspaper, before putting them in the box they will travel in.This method is supposed to make them last longer, but it is a tedious task. And a grubby one that turns hands black from ink.

At the end of the day, there was still a lot to do.

Tea was frozen oven-fried fish, with a few fries for John, as I only had two potatoes left unpacked. During the afternoon, I cooked some chicken maryland pieces for tomorrow.


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1998 Travels June 25

THURSDAY 25 JUNE    WONGA BEACH

A fine, warm day.

We drove into Mossman for some supplies. On the way, there was much burning of sugar cane, prior to harvesting. I presume this is done to clear out undergrowth and vermin?

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Burning sugar cane, prior to harvest, near Mossman. The foreground area has already been harvested and ploughed over, in preparation for the next planting

John spent the bulk of the day organizing tax paperwork and financial records. It is quite complex this year, because of our ceasing work, termination payments and the like.

I went for a walk on the beach, and did some embroidery.

I went and saw manager T and paid for an extra couple of nights – $12 with no weekly rate. He is happy for us to leave the van stored here, while we are up Cape York. He has promised to keep a very close eye on it and said that it will not cost a great deal. We are quite happy with this arrangement. The van will not be connected to power, of course.

Tea was flake done in a wine/garlic marinade, with salad.