This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels June 2

FRIDAY 2 JUNE     OPALTON

Last night was another really cold one. Today, like yesterday, was sunny but with the cold wind.

L’s friends left this morning, and L went off to Winton.

John wanted to use the GPS and the Queensland Outback regional map we have, to find the old diggings area south of the Mayne River. He pre-set waypoints that he’d worked out from the map, into the GPS. However, the map was too small for him to pinpoint locations, and the tracks were not marked accurately on it, anyway. So his locations were not exact. This annoyed him and put great pressure on me to try to navigate with inadequate resources!

We set off, taking the track south. The first turnoff was supposedly 14kms south of Opalton. Because this didn’t match the GPS waypoint, John thought we were on the wrong track. This view was reinforced when the next supposed point was also not there. I thought the track was the right one and the positions were simply consistently out by a little to the south.

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Track through ironstone and spinifex country south of Opalton

John took several side tracks, trying to find his entered waypoints, and we tracked and backtracked in the maze of tracks around various diggings. At least it was all quite scenic.

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Country south of the Mayne River

Eventually, we got back onto the original track and reached a long waterhole which we assumed was the Mayne River. Later, we found out that this was called Mailmans and there used to be a coach stop there. We had lunch there, with lots of birds around.

From there we continued roughly south, eventually fetching up where John was aiming for. It was an area of jump up mesa country and much open cut mining, but there did not appear to be anyone around.

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Area of mining south of the Mayne River

We saw some emu wrens in the spinifex – lovely.

By this time, it was too late to do any serious fossicking, so we turned back for camp.

We got back to the Mayne River alright, but took a couple of wrong turns to the north of it. When we had been twisting and turning in that area in the morning, John had stopped me from marking waypoints on the GPS, as it was “cluttering up the memory”! So we were relying mostly on memory, here.

We came across a substantial camp, that we hadn’t encountered this morning. It had gardens and all. We had to check the way to Opalton with the man who was there. Even so, we took one more wrong turn.

I calculated we did about 40kms on wrong tracks, over the day! Out of the 141kms we drove.

I really enjoyed the scenery we drove through – it was a worthwhile outing just for that.

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Harsh country south of Opalton

It was nearly dark when we got back to camp.

Tea was fries and battered oven-fry fish – cooked in a frying pan though.

After tea I read a book I’d borrowed from the Outpost.


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2000 Travels June 1

THURSDAY 1 JUNE     OPALTON

The first day of winter, with clear blue sky but a chilly wind. Overnight, the temperature inside the van registered a low of 3 degrees! Technically, we were in the tropics, here – just – but you wouldn’t know it.

John ran the Truck to put some charge into the van battery, in the morning.

Just before 11am, we drove up to the Outpost to be there when the mail run arrived. This was the social highlight of the Opalton week – maybe the only highlight! It was quite fascinating. There were certainly a lot more people in the area than we realized. It was quite a weird array of characters and vehicles. People chatted amongst themselves – it was obviously the weekly catch up. There were heaps of dogs around and it was a great meeting place for them too!

I posted two letters to friends, which would carry an Opalton Outpost franking. Unusual.

There was quite a little crowd gathered by 11am and L had his HF radio rigged so it could be heard outside. We heard the mail lady announce she was “just coming over the grid” and the crowd stirred.

A good five minutes later a ute pulled in. The diminutive mail lady was very self-important. An array of goods came with the mail bags – boxes of groceries, eskies of meat, gas bottles, containers of diesel, bags of chook feed! All items that people had ordered. People came, helped to unload the ute, then left with their goodies.

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The Thursday mail run

L, the lady we’d met in the Winton butcher’s shop, turned up with partner J. We arranged to follow them out to Devil Devil to look at their open cut mining. But, before we went, John had described to J the junk heaps we’d found the other day, on the hill beyond Snake Jump – and J was interested to see what was there. Potential spare parts!

Then we headed out to their mine area – on the same track that we’d taken, on Tuesday. I had the GPS going, to record our route waypoints, and the directions we were taking were all over the place, to every point of the compass. We knew Devil Devil was west of Opalton, but we also went south, north and even east at one stage. L told us later that the guy with the grader, who made the track, got lost a few times when he was doing it! Devil Devil is some 16kms to the west, but the track distance was 28kms!

We went straight to their camp area where they dropped off their mail and had a quick lunch. There was a moment of embarrassment when I think L thought they should offer us some food (I suspected they were getting by on a minimum) but I quickly mentioned that we’d bought our sandwiches with us.

L and J  shared their camp area with an older, experienced miner, R. It was quite a substantial camp with 240v generators, a shower “building”, a pit toilet that they bored. They were hairdressers from the Gold Coast. The lease actually belonged to a former customer of theirs, whose husband was too ill to mine any more. L and J were keen to try opal mining, so they have some sort of share arrangement with her. L and J were novices, but said they were learning fast! This was their first season out here, apart from a visit last year. They hadn’t worked a dozer or excavator before!

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Working the excavator on the opal claim

We drove tracks to where they were digging, a couple of kms from the camp.They told us about fault lines in the rock as an indicator of opal and showed us the terrain they were excavating. J brings up a shovel full of dirt and rock and L looks quickly through it for any signs of good stuff. They didn’t seem to be finding any, though.

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Excavated mine pit showing rock layers

They demonstrated how to “divine” a fault line with bent wire – John had a try and was really good at it. Pity one couldn’t divine for sapphire bearing gravel in the gemfields!

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Divining fault lines with a bent wire at Devil Devil

We did some birdwatching while L and J were working, and found a Mallee wren and a red backed kingfisher – both new to us.

We then followed L and J to look at where R was mining, but he wasn’t there. We found him back at the camp. He had knocked off early because he’d found a big pipe that he thought was worth tens of thousands of dollars! He showed us – it was huge. Longer than his forearm, and thicker. He gave us the name of his son, in Barcaldine, who cuts opal. He talked of various claims in terms of how many millions X or Y took out of it last season! It was a fascinating insight into an activity and way of life we’d not known anything of. Obviously, L and J were hoping to strike those sorts of riches too.

The largest opal pipe ever found was at Opalton in 1899 – over 3 metres long and as thick as a man’s thigh. It took four men to carry it!

Even with the GPS waypoints entered, we got a little lost, leaving Devil Devil. There were huge open cuts through the area and tracks everywhere.

We gathered some wood on the way back.

It was late afternoon when we got back to the van. We’d driven 65kms.

S and S, the two Europeans, left this morning.

Tea was soup, stir fry noodles with pork and veggies.

While we were at the Outpost this morning, found out that L has a Flying Doctor medical chest. These are supplied to remote places by the Flying Doctor Service – one person is responsible for it. So L would be the liason person with the RFDS in case of an emergency for one of the locals – or a traveller.


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2000 Travels May 31

WEDNESDAY 31 MAY     OPALTON

There was a lovely blue sky and an unpleasant chilly wind.

Pottered about as usual in the morning.

John was really getting the water clearing process working well now – it is fine for washing hands, dishes.

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Ash in water causes the suspended clay silt to settle to the bottom

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Siphoning off the clarified water

Last night S and G, the Europeans, put both the yabby nets – theirs and ours – into a waterhole, and got forty yabbies overnight. I took a photo of them, cooked and lined up on M’s table.

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Cooked yabbies – feast for the camp tonight!

Went walking after lunch, all round the old area, as marked by the historic site signs. The old town had at least two hotels! It was hard to visualize what the town layout had been, just from the signs there now. But we know there were at least 600 people here about a hundred years ago.

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Remains of the bakery

In the old town area there was lots of broken glass and pieces of broken pottery.

It looked like the new airstrip was bulldozed through the middle of the old town site. Apparently the Flying Doctor – the main reason for building the strip – can’t use it. It is not the dog leg in the middle that is an issue, but the windmill on a rise at the end of the strip. Oops! Mistake on someone’s part!

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Memorial to a more recent death – and a warning

The old township was established beside the creek, which clearly dries up most years. We walked along the creek, past one big waterhole and a few small ones. I think we were seeing this area after an unusually wet season, judging by the growth we’d seen around Winton, and the waterholes in the creeks out this way.

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The creek was really pretty. We saw the Cloncurry variant of the ringneck parrot, very clearly.

Coming back, along a narrow bit of the creek, we came across a place where the creek in a flood, appeared to have broken through down into an old shaft. Very deep and quite scary! Suddenly, the ground did not seem all that solid, especially in the creek beds!

John went very close to walking into a BIG spider, in its web, slung between two close trees. He got a big fright!

M told us that the old claims area, behind the Bush Camp, where we go noodling, is riddled with old shafts that are now full of water. It could be quite dangerous to go wandering too much out there.

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New digging in the foreground and old mullock heaps in distance

We plugged the van to Truck again and ran the engine for half an hour.

B came round and John explained to him about the 4WD Radio Network and showed him the sched routine. Then John went off to show S how to dry sieve for gemstones – they are planning to visit the Rubyvale area next.

L told us he was expecting friends to visit and they arrived this afternoon – an 87 year old, with a much younger American wife. They were installed in one of the huts, with L hovering in attendance. We could hear much talk of opals, mines, leases, a local they all knew who was selling his lease, and so on.

Tea was minestrone, then zucchini slice made in the camp oven.

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Camp oven zucchini slice

It was the last day of autumn. In 98 on this day we were at Mission Beach, last year at Erldunda. I wondered about 2001? Probably in the north of WA?


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2000 Travels May 30

TUESDAY 30 MAY     OPALTON

Last night was slightly warmer. The day was fine, but cool.

John noodled in the morning, then made potato bread. I cooked minestrone.

At lunchtime, a bus load of school children arrived – not what one would expect, out here. L showed them round for about an hour.

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The Bush Camp, Opalton. Amenity block at left. A bush shelter at right.

 

After lunch, we went driving again, roughly  west. We went past a sizeable mine – outside the declared fossicking area – and followed the more used tracks. About 16kms out, stopped at a creek crossing, with a small rocky gorge and some waterholes – a pretty place. We walked along the creek for some way.

Then we drove on a couple of kms further. I like this type of country but it was fairly flat. We collected wood on the way back.

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Reflections in the rocky creek

Tea was minestrone, and toad in the hole, made in the camp oven – was good.

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Camp oven cookery – coals on lid for heat

The night was not as cold.

John had begun plugging the van into the Truck power outlet and running the motor for a while, to give a bit of a boost to the power charge. We had also begun to half drop the poptop to improve the angle to the sun, for the solar panel. We were obviously not as self sufficient out here as we thought we’d be!

 


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2000 Travels May 29

MONDAY 29 MAY     OPALTON

Today was sunny, but not really warm, after the cold of last night. Apparently, it was really cold in Canberra and Melbourne – snow, sleet and the like.

I had a sore shoulder and decided to take it easy for the next couple of days. Well, even easier….

The days were beginning to follow a similar pattern. We did some noodling in the morning, and general pottering about camp.

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Poptop roof angled to get more sun on the solar system

I did some sewing, while John did some noodling.

We went for a drive to find a waterhole that L gave us directions to. We went up some tracks, broadly to the south east. Tracks everywhere! We found a water filled cut, but no waterhole per se. The old open cut was in an area with lots of old machinery and dead vehicles. It was probably about 6 kms from Opalton.

I soaked dried soup mix to make soup tomorrow.

Tea was yabby cocktail, followed by BBQ’d sausages – done on the wire grill over the open fire.

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Not much warmth in the sunshine. Note our solar shower bag heating up.


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2000 Travels May 28

SUNDAY 28 MAY     OPALTON

It was a lovely day with a clear blue sky.

We noodled for a while in the morning – on the same heaps behind the camp area. There was an extensive area of these to choose from.

M brought round a bottle of washing up detergent that L sent us from the store – I’d mentioned yesterday that I’d forgotten to buy some in Winton and had asked if there was any at the Outpost. I was just about out of same.

L came round later and I paid him $2 for the detergent and $22 for 11 nights of camping here. We had already decided we really wanted to linger out here, but that this was the longest period we could manage before moving on.

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Opalton personalities

This would be a good period for the budget! Though the fruit and veg shop up at Winton had been costly – almost $50.

John drove out again to put in the yabby nets – he also had a loan of one from S, of the overseas camping couple.

Later in the afternoon we both drove back to the Sandy Creek waterhole to retrieve the nets, one had about 17 in! John was SO surprised. He let out some little ones, risking his fingers to do so.

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John yabbying – and risking his fingers

Back at camp – by which time it was dark – we cooked and peeled the catch. Hard work!

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The yabby catch

So, it was a late tea, but they were nice with seafood sauce. There were enough bits of claw meat left for a small “cocktail” with tomorrow’s tea.

It was an extremely cold night – due to the clear skies. We sat by the fire after tea, all rugged up, even with our wool beanies.

John had been checking the solar power monitoring meters through the day. He wasn’t sure that the Hydra-lec one was working and found one part inside it melted/burnt. He thinks that someone must have rewired it in Melbourne – probably J – the man who installed the solar panel.

This was not good. Because the solar status panel was not working properly, we could not tell what was happening with our power inputs and storage. It was a worry.


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2000 Travels May 27

SATURDAY 27 MAY   OPALTON

It was a pleasant, fine day.

We noodled on the heaps for a while in the morning, with little success.

John wanted to track down our lone traveller acquaintance from Rubyvale to suggest he come here, but the phone box here was not working, so that idea was abandoned. I cycled down to the phone box and back, which raised a sweat.

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The phone box at Opalton – complete with stool

L told us that one of the miners, some time ago, wanted to use the phone and was so cross because it was not working, that he put a rope from his 4WD around it and pulled it over! Then he grew remorseful within a couple of days, and worked to put it back.

After lunch, did a bit more noodling.

John drove out to Sandy Creek to put the yabby net in a waterhole to try to catch some. He came back with three, which we kept alive in a bucket of water.

Tea was beef Mongolian and rice, using a bottle of Mongolian sauce.

The night was a bit cooler.

Love camping out in this sort of mulga bush – it was rather reminiscent of Gemtree, last year.

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Late afternoon at our camp


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2000 Travels May 26

FRIDAY 26 MAY     OPALTON

The day started out with a dull morning, but cleared, partly, later. The night rain was over.

I was very surprised at how dry the things under the spinifex roofed shelter had stayed, during the heavy rain of the night. It is very effective. It made a real difference, having a larger than usual expanse of dry ground for our outside living area, out there.

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The spinifex-roofed shelter was surprisingly waterproof

We spent some time fine tuning the camp – sieving ash from the campfire (the gem fossicking sieves were handy), setting up water in the big wash up bowl to settle the sediment, arranging the “furniture”.

We walked out into the nearby mullock heaps – a very short walk away – and noodled for a while. This consisted of scrabbling solidified dirt away from a selected area of heap and watching closely to see if any “colour” was unearthed in this way.

I found a fair sized piece of bright green opal, in a little “pipe” formation. I was actually walking around a low heap at the time and the angle of the sun was causing a green light to shine through it onto the ground, and it was that which caught my eye. I was just in the right place at the crucial minute or so – it was right on the surface of a heap. I wondered how many times it had been overlooked before. Beginner’s luck! I hope it will eventually cut into something really nice because the colour appears superb.

After lunch, we went back out again. Found some “fairy dust” pieces – little colour speckles in rock.

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Mullock heaps by our camp

When we’d had enough of scrabbling around in the dirt, drove a little way to the south, about 4kms, across Sandy Creek, which had a couple of fair sized waterholes in it, still.

I find it interesting how the general aridity of this sort of country enhances the attractiveness of any water feature that occurs. A little creek or water hole becomes somehow “special”, and noteworthy in a way that it would not be in an area where surface water is more abundant.

Fetched wood for our fire. There was plenty of that, lying about.

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Sandy Creek waterhole

Back at camp, I paid M for two of her gem trees – the one I had selected for us and another, mounted on a gidgee base, for P and K for Xmas. That will be a challenge to pack when we send off our presents!

L from the Outpost came round to see how we’d settled in. He said the young couple with the baby apparently left about 1am this morning, when the rain was heavy. It would have sounded even worse on the tin roof of their shelter and I guess they got worried about being able to make it out in their conventional car.

Tea was savoury mince and potato.


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2000 Travels May 25

THURSDAY 25 MAY   WINTON TO OPALTON   129kms

It took us a while to get away from Winton this morning. We had to get gas bottles filled, stock up on water, and batten down the van contents for somewhat rough dirt road travel.

Refuelled at the Caltex Depot – 83cpl. Also filled up the two jerry cans, which had been empty since last year.

Went to the Post Office and arranged for the mail that was awaiting at Cloncurry for us to collect, to be sent here to Winton. Apparently, there is a full bag!

Then we did a top up of groceries and went to get some meat from the butcher. Whilst I was in there, John came in and asked the butcher if he had any meat scraps suitable for yabby bait. A very attractive looking fellow customer asked him where he was going yabbying and John replied somewhere out around Opalton. She was interested by that; turned out that she and her partner have a claim near Opalton, at Devil Devil and she invited us out there to have a look at the operation. We arranged to meet her at the Outpost store next Thursday, when the mail vehicle comes in.

It was midday when we left Winton. We ate lunch in Truck, going along.

It took us over two hours to get to Opalton, taking it easy with the van. It travelled well and very little got disarranged inside. John noticed altered handling with the extra weight of the jerry cans on the van back – we have never had that before – and with the full water tanks.

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Mulga and spinifex country around Opalton

M and husband B seemed pleased to see us – and maybe rather surprised that we had come, after all.

It took us a while to set up camp, with the van beside a bough shelter, under which we set up the camp gear – camp stove, Chescold fridge, table and chairs. We had the best of both worlds! There was a stone fireplace built nearby too.

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Camp set up at Opalton Bush Camp

There was some piped water to the Bush Camp – from a nearby dam, filled by a windmill pump. B told us it is heavily sedimented but that it can be cleared for dishwashing and the like by using ash from the fire to “flock” it. Maybe by tomorrow we would have some ash. It would be useful if we could conserve the better van water for cooking and drinking.

Our camping here cost the princely sum of $2 a night! There are amenities in an Atco building, with flush toilets and cold showers.

It was nearly dark by the time all was organized. There was enough of a breeze to prevent mosquitoes, but a cloud build up that could mean rain. On yesterday’s drive, John saw a long line of black ants crossing the road; he reckons that means rain is coming.

I cooked tea outside, on the new Coleman stove we had not used before – it was excellent to use. Tea was chicken noodle soup, hamburger in toast, and a pear for dessert.

We stayed outside to eat tea, sat by a small fire in the fireplace for a while, then went in and read for a while. The nights here would have to be early to bed, to conserve the 12volt power in the van. The solar panel does seem to be working but to date, existing for any time on the system is untried.

There were four other lots of campers here – caretakers M and B, a French couple who were here the other day and have been for over a week, someone in an older van who arrived after us, and a couple with a young baby who arrived last night and are camping in a tin shed here, who seem not at all prepared for camping out.

There were spits of rain early in the evening and heavy rain at times during the night.

We went to bed about 9pm. It was great to be camped out in the bush again.

The gidgee wattle that was in the bush around us was smelling in the rain – the “Stinking Wattle” so called.

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To Opalton


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2000 Travels May 24

WEDNESDAY 24 MAY     WINTON

We rattled around in the morning, making phone calls and paying rates, water rates, phone bill, by phone.

We did a big fruit and veg shop, as this was the day the produce arrived fresh in town. I even managed to get grapefruit, often not available in these places, but it was all rather expensive.

After the shopping was put away, set out to drive to Lark Quarry, some 110 kms down the Jundah road, to the south west. This was mostly unsealed, but in pretty good condition.

We drove through varied country that was very interesting. There were some dramatic jump ups and valleys. We got a fright, when an emu shot out of bushes  beside the road, and raced right in front of Truck, with its neck stretched right out – as if that would make it faster! Emu just made it. I am not sure who got the biggest fright.

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Jump-up country SW of Winton

I had read a little about Lark Quarry in tourist information and really wanted to visit it, as something “different”. It was much more impressive, though, than I had anticipated.

Lark Quarry was the site of a dinosaur stampede, something not known of anywhere else. It was nearly 100 million years ago, when this country was vastly different, we were still joined to Antarctica, and all sorts of dinosaurs roamed around. It is believed that a lot of small dinosaurs, ranging from chicken to emu size, had come to drink and/or forage, by a lake. The mud at the edge of the lake was very soft, so their footprints sank into it. Then a big, carnivorous Tyrannosaurus came hunting them, and the little ones stampeded. The footprints filled with soft sediments and the mud turned to mudstone. Later, more recent erosion, exposed some dinosaur tracks and then the “quarry” was excavated in the 1970’s, to reveal the full stampede.

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Little feet scattering in all directions, and footmarks of the hunter

A roof had been built over the prints, and a mesh walled walkway allowed us to view the prints without being able to destroy them. It was pleasing to see these efforts at preservation, although there was no-one there to keep an eye on them, and we were alone there. (We heard later that there was a caretaker, but he had died out there a day or two before our visit).

Just looking at the footprints, we could sense the panic of the little dinosaurs, as they tried to escape the monster.

It was also a great lesson in how the climate and topography has changed over time. Back in the stampede times, this area had river and lakes and plenty of vegetation to feed scores of little plant eating dinosaurs. This sedimentary layer that was well buried under semi-arid rocky hills and outcrops was once a muddy sand bar in a lake surrounded by forest.

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Lark Quarry country

We went for a walk up to a lookout from where we could see other areas of excavation. Then we completed the nature walk. I found the area really attractive.

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We saw some beautifully marked small dragon lizards. They moved extremely fast, then sat up on rocks to watch us and see what was happening. Cute little critters.

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Really little reptile

We ate our packed lunch at Lark Quarry.

Judging from what we saw in the Visitors Book we signed, not many people make the trip out here on the unsealed road.

Cloud was building up between sunny breaks, and the humidity increased through the day.

On the way back, detoured off the Jundah road into Bladensburg National Park, as far as the Engine Hole Waterhole. This was really pretty, with a lot of bird life around. We saw a rufous song lark, for the first time. It was too late to explore the Park – which was a pastoral property until recently – any further, and we returned to Winton.  Drove 264kms today.

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Engine Hole Waterhole, Bladensburg National Park

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Track through Bladensburg National Park

Made radio contact with Alice Springs Base of the 4WD Radio Network, let them know where we were and gave a rough outline of our plans. The duty man said that the road into Lawn Hill  from Gregory Downs was rough. We were planning after the time around here, to make our way to Cloncurry and then on there.

Phoned K to let him know our plans.

Tonight was the last TV for a while!

It was an extremely humid and warm night.