This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels August 17

THURSDAY 17 AUGUST   OLD HALLS CREEK TO FITZROY CROSSING   318kms

We managed to depart camp before 9am.

Drove back into Halls Creek, where we refuelled, for $1.13cpl.

Then turned west again on the highway.

The scenery was less spectacular between Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing, but there was still enough variety to be interesting.

In these days of easy travel through the Kimberley, one forgets that the highway was only sealed, between Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek, in 1986. That was only seven years before we came up this way in 1993. The last frontier….

About an hour out of Halls Creek, we began to notice a strange noise coming from the area of the back left wheel, like a stone caught somewhere in there. It would go away for a while, then come back. John tried stopping and reversing, as one does to try to get rid of a stone, and that seemed to stop it for a while. We stopped several times to check it.

When I looked out my side as we were going along, I thought the wheel might have been wobbling a little, but I wasn’t sure. John was becoming increasingly terse, so I didn’t pursue that line.

We stopped for morning tea at an area of really spectacular cliffs and jump up hills. There were some dramatic hills in the distance too.

The need to get to Karratha was curtailing our ability to slow down and explore some of these interesting parts, but there was always next year.

The noise became worse after we started up again. John wondered if we had a broken axle, but I remembered that, when we broke the axle on the Hilux, in 1993, it didn’t move at all.

He slowed right down and we crawled along. I pointed out the wobbly wheel, which was much worse by now, and John agreed that it really was going from side to side!

The last 100 or so kms to Fitzroy Crossing took us ages, and seemed a really long way.

We talked about possible scenarios. It seemed most unlikely that repairs could be done in Fitzroy Crossing, given what we remembered of the place, from ’93. A tow truck trip to Broome for Truck seemed probable – and I resigned myself to an extended stay at Fitzroy Crossing, with van and no vehicle.

We reached the Fitzroy Crossing Lodge, with its very pleasant campground, and went into the motel reception to book in. The site cost $20.90. John explained our predicament and asked whether – if we had to stay longer here – their weekly rate could be retrospective. The lady was not helpful, and said weekly rates had to be paid up front. We were not prepared to do that until we knew what might happen. That is twice we have stayed here, now, and both times we have felt that the campground patrons are not a staff priority, but the second class citizens.

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At Fitzroy Crossing – we look normal enough, but……

John phoned Landrover Assist and they said to leave it to them to find a solution. Shortly after, while we were setting up camp, a tow truck driver called John. He said he would come from Broome and take Truck and van back there.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that he would take the van too. I really was not looking forward to a solo stay at Fitzroy Crossing.

John said the driver sounded pleased to have the job – a nice long one. He was very obliging – would drive out to here, camp overnight, and hitch us up early in the morning.

I did not envy him a night time drive with the wildlife that is around at night. Guess he got paid extra for being out overnight, though.

We were very impressed with the service from Landrover Assist – one phone call on our part, and all was organized for us. We do not even have to pay for the tow.

Tea was a packet macaroni cheese.

After tea, I walked down to the Fitzroy River which borders the very extensive grounds. It had quite a lot of water in. But it was still hard to envisage the floods that regularly inundate the camp ground where we are.

The sunset was brilliant.

It was a good night to be early to bed! So much tension today. What ever time that repairs take is going to eat into our time available for looking around this northern part of WA. Damn!

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2000 Travels August 16

WEDNESDAY 16 AUGUST   KUNUNURRA TO OLD HALLS CREEK   399kms

We were up early and away from the park about 8.30.

Drove the rig to a refrigeration business in town, where John had arranged to have the van’s air-con checked. He wasn’t sure if it might need regassing, but they said it was ok. That cost $33.

We left Kununurra about 9.30am, heading west and south.

It was a pleasant drive on Highway 1, with varied changes of scenery to keep it interesting. It is spectacular and dramatic country – “true” Kimberley.

The road varied. It was good (and repaired) in parts. Other parts were narrower, a bit rough, and at times there were no white lines. There were quite a few single lane bridges, some with only very low cement kerb edges. Quite long, too, some of them. There did not seem to be much of a side margin for error, but I guessed they must be better than they looked, because road trains manage them.

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Low level, single width bridge

We shared the driving.

Passed the turnoff into the Bungles National Park. We had been in there on our ’93 trip, so missing that, this time, was not too disappointing. Another for next year?

We had not before travelled the highway, south of the Bungles turnoff, so that was new road for us, between that and Fitzroy Crossing, well to the west.

We noted the track where we would have come out onto the highway, had we driven the Tableland Track. John reckoned what he could see of the country to the west of there  looked interesting. Maybe next year, or the one after?

We stopped to have a look at the upper Ord River, where it was crossed by the highway. There was much evidence of the floods earlier in the year.

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The Ord River – upper reaches

The highway went over on a low level causeway – obviously sometimes impassable in the wet season. The road surface had white river level markers painted on it to show how deep the water beyond would be.

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Depth markers painted on the road at the Ord River

Right now, it was a benign little trickle under the causeway – a total contrast with the huge, powerful river downstream of the Argyle Dam.

Reached the township of Halls Creek. We drove around to try to get a newspaper. It was not a pleasant looking town – there were many barricades on windows and doors, much graffiti about, groups of indigenes just sitting about.

We didn’t linger in Halls Creek, and were not tempted at all to stay in the town.

Took the Duncan Road to the south, heading for Old Halls Creek, some 16kms away.

John was not happy to find that the road was unsealed – dirt on his nice clean Truck!

It was a pretty drive out there. The road was not too rough.

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The country around Old Halls Creek

Halls Creek settlement originally began out here, with the gold rush of the 1880’s. A prospector named Hall found gold near the Black Elvire River. The settlement that sprung up was by a tributary – Halls Creek. The rush was soon over, but for a few months, there were upwards of 15,000 people there.

The settlement battled on, servicing local pastoral runs, and what passing traffic there was. Water shortage was a problem in the dry season. It was abandoned, progressively, from 1948 to 1954, as the settlement was relocated to the present Halls Creek site, where the airstrip had been built in 1948, and the (gravel) highway rerouted to avoid the hills around the old site.

We booked into the caravan park at the Old Halls Creek Lodge, for $14 for a powered site.

The Lodge was a sizeable establishment, rather run down. It certainly needed some work. The managers had only been in place for two weeks. It was apparently built by a miner, possibly as a means of avoiding some tax, and he had put a lot into it. It could be really nice.

We found the camp ground really pleasant.

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Our site at Old Halls Creek Lodge

The original settlement remains consisted of a few ruins, street signs out in the long grass, plaques showing what was there. The buildings seemed to have been made from ant bed – or mud from termite mounds, so they hadn’t lasted all that well.

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What remains of the original settlemnt of Halls Creek

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These were the most substantial of the ruins

Halls Creek runs through the little valley. It is an attractive place.

We sat outside the van, which was parked up on a terraced level. We had good views of interesting hills around and we watched the antics of corellas having baths under a sprinkler – and ending up looking quite muddy.

I went for a walk around the ruins. John had a sleep.

A fellow camper (a prospector) lit a BBQ fire and invited us to share it, so I cooked potatoes and sweet corn cobs in foil on it. Very nice too.

There was no TV, of course, and the generator that powered the sites went off at 9pm. John played games on his laptop for a while. I had an early night.

It was lovely and quiet once the generator was off – no urban sounds out here.

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2000 Travels August 15

TUESDAY 15 AUGUST     KUNUNURRA

It was hot and humid again.

We did a shop – some food and some beer and wine. Went to the Melon Patch and got some more fruit.

Refuelled Truck – $1.03cpl. Also filled the jerry can we’d used.

We did the usual preliminary pack up.

I had a last swim – have loved that pool.

Tea was roast veggies and cold chook.

Phoned K to report our next movements.


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2000 Travels August 14

MONDAY 14 AUGUST     KUNUNURRA

It was hot again, and a bit sticky. About 34 degrees again.

John worked on the van’s wheels, bearings and brakes for much of the day. He was pleased because he could buy the parts he wanted for this, here in town.

I walked to the Post Office and collected our mail, then went to Coles for a few things.

I sorted the mail. There were some personal letters – always enjoyable. Also a few bills, but not many – a good batch of mail!

I sewed whilst John had the van up on the jack and I couldn’t thus go inside.

Lunch was late, due to the van work.

After lunch, we both walked into town and picked up the photos. I was very pleased with them. The processing, and stocking up on some more film, cost me $163!

I had another long swim.

We talked some more with the man behind us. A widower and retired motor mechanic – he had been interested in John’s van work. He waters the grass for the caravan park – I presume he gets a site free or at a reduced rate for this? He is here for another 8 weeks – I reckon it will be really humid and stormy by then! But it seems to be not a bad life.

Tea was roast chook and vegies.


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2000 Travels August 13

SUNDAY 13 AUGUST     KUNUNURRA

Another hot and humid day.

This was supposed to be a rest day for John, after the hard work of the last couple. However, he cleaned Truck in the morning. I did the applying of Armorall to the vinyl parts.

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Clean Truck

In the afternoon, John watched Carlton lose the first football final.

I went for a really long swim and laze in the pool – the one here at the park is a lovely lagoon style one. With reduced numbers in the park, there were not too many other people in there.

After the football, John went for a short walk.


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2000 Travels August 12

SATURDAY 12 AUGUST     KUNUNURRA

Today was hot – around 34 degrees –  and a little humid.

John woke up not feeling ill, which was good news.

We went to the shops after breakfast. I took films to the chemist for processing – 9 rolls of same. I got a 20% discount for quantity. They will be ready Monday afternoon.

We bought a paper and a few other items.

Drove out to the Melon Patch and bought some fruit.

I did much washing – four full loads – including the caravan bedding and the doona cover.

We spent much of the day finishing off the changing over from camping mode to caravan mode, and repacking the gear.

It was another tiring day in the heat. Again, lovely clean showers with ample water, were appreciated!

A nice old guy – Victorian – was on the site behind us and we talked for a while.

When we were here earlier, and now, we have noticed that many of the travellers staying here are older folk, towing a van with an ordinary car,  and “going round” Australia.  A number of the men have come up to John, when he has been pottering about outside, and asked him questions about our “serious” off road rig! Often, it is obvious they are really envious of what we are doing, but their wives do not want to leave the security of the bitumen roads. They tend to pay large amounts of money for short plane flights over the Bungles and envy our capacity to see such places up close. It is a pity, because what we are doing is not really that hard or risky.

Tea was hamburgers, at John’s request. Cooked on the table outside, in the electric frypan. I dished up John’s and handed it in to him and then, whilst I was soaking the frypan, the board that John likes to put up at the back of the table, to prevent spatters on the van side, slid forward and knocked my plate off the table into the dirt and grime on the ground. I ended up eating some lettuce and tomato! I had been looking forward to the burger too. I am surprised this hasn’t happened before now, as it is not a very secure arrangement.


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2000 Travels August 11

FRIDAY 11 AUGUST   BARNETT RIVER GORGE TO KUNUNURRA   555kms

John had a bit of a rash on his torso, yesterday afternoon, and he woke this morning much worse, with hundreds of little spots and itchy lumps. It was almost a measles-like rash, but he was not really feeling ill enough to have something like that. In fact, he did not really know if he was feeling ill or not! It did not seem to be a heat rash. We wondered if there had been something in the water at one of the swimming places – but I was not affected at all. Quite strange and rather concerning.

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John feeling miserable

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Very spotty!

We packed up and continued west on the Gibb River Road, to Mt Barnett store, for fuel. This was $1.22 a litre.

We debated whether to continue on to Old Mornington, as had been our plan. This was about 100kms south of the Gibb River Road, by the Fitzroy River, and thus rather remote if John did get really ill. Our plan after that had been to drive the Tableland Track back to the east, if it was open  – and that would be particularly remote.

We decided to play safe and head back east along the Gibb, abandoning the plan to drive the Tableland Track.

Fortunately, we had gotten away early this morning.

So we traversed the road already driven on this trip.

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Gibb River Road – burnt and unburnt sides. The road is an effective firebreak for early dry season burns

Stopped to have lunch at Bindoola Creek crossing, so we made good time to there. The ford was much drier than when we’d come this way a month ago.

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Bindoola Creek with much less water

There was not much traffic. We wondered if the early heat was deterring some travellers?

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Kapok trees, the Cockburn Range and long dry season grass

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The Pentecost River again

The road was more corrugated. There were now quite a lot of burnt areas. It was a relief to reach the highway and the bitumen again – it had been a while!

We reached Wyndham about 4pm. John went into the store to buy a newspaper and a cask of wine – we had been deprived of same for some time. I stayed in Truck , trying to phone Kununurra to see if we could get a place in a caravan park. John really wanted to press on there, if we could, rather than overnight at Wyndham. I think he just wanted one last burst of effort to get set up for a few days, before giving in to feeling miserable! It made sense to get settled in the larger town, in case he got worse.

An elderly aboriginal kept leaning in the open window of truck, asking me for the “loan” of a dollar. He was being quite pestering. This sort of thing is not the greatest experience for tourists. I remember R at Honeymoon saying that there was too much booze and fighting in Wyndham.

At the caravan park, it was great to see the van again, and see that all was well, even though it was also disappointing to have cut short the time along the Gibb. I actually felt quite dislocated – this morning was camped by the creek at the Gorge, and expecting to be camped by the Fitzroy River tonight, instead of being back in town!

It took us a while to hitch up the van, and secure things for travel, with some distraction from a horse that wanted to find food in the van, and actually stuck its head in the door.

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Packing up at Wyndham

When we began to open up the van, I got quite a fright. This is rather a quirky caravan park and someone had put a life sized plaster statue of a jabiru by the van. I went to pick it up and move it out of the way – and it squawked and moved of its own volition! Totally tame bird.

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Jabiru – for real!

We paid our $80 storage fee.

It was just on 6pm when we reached Kununurra.

As it gets dark early in these parts, we drove the last part in the dark.

Set up at Ivanhoe Village Caravan Park, also in the dark. Our site cost $19.80, after discount. Having the last six nights free camped had been good for the budget.

John insisted on doing the full set up, even though he was tired and ill tempered by now. He made some annoying mistakes, which didn’t help, like putting the wrong side of the van up on a levelling block!

Late tea was bacon and eggs for John, which he requested – not really invalid food! I had some lovely vine-ripened tomatoes that I bought at the Reception desk when we were checking in.

The lady at Reception said there was a mysterious rash doing the rounds, and most of the Kimberley had it!  It was hard to work out how John came by it, though.

Well, at least we do not have to move tomorrow, and we are close to medical facilities, if needed. Greater peace of mind.

I have to admit that a proper shower was much appreciated!

Because of the requirement to get to Karratha for the Olympics, the original rough plan that I’d made for this jaunt, had us away for only about a month, anyway, and back in Kununurra about this time. However, it had not included such a long stay at Honeymoon. It had included Old Mornington, the Tableland Track, the Bungles, and the Duncan Road back to here! Clearly, was a rough guide only, and we have unfinished business in these parts. Next year?

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Where we drove and camped


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2000 Travels August 10

THURSDAY 10 AUGUST  KING EDWARD RIVER TO BARNETT RIVER GORGE  267kms

I woke to spatter sounds on the roof of the tent – heavy dew? Light rain?

There was misty cloud about and morning mist over the river, which was a different scene  again. The sun behind the mist created some interesting light effects. All yet another type of mood for this beautiful area.

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Morning mist over the King Edward River

We were up at 6am and packed and away at 7.45am.

Churned our way back through the river ford and were soon back on the main Kalumburu road, heading south, then the Gibb River road, heading west. The road was variable, from good to very corrugated, with some bull dust patches and places where rocks outcropped from the road. There were several water crossings but nothing that was any issue.

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King Edward River ford – can be a bit tricky

We did not see much private traffic on the road, but did see several safari tour buses.

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Back on the Gibb River Road

After straightforward travel ,we reached the turnoff to Barnett River Gorge at lunchtime. We followed the track, which seemed to divide a few times. It was not really clear where the camp area was – I thought it was a pretty informal camp place. We found a secluded spot beside a little creek, edged with pandanus and cadjeput. There were lots of mozzies, though. It was a pretty spot and John liked it.

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Camp spot at the Barnett River Gorge area

We did the basic set up, then drove further along what appeared to be the main track, for about 3kms. The track ended in what did look like a place for camping – but not as nice as where we were.

We parked there, then walked upstream, across stony country between loops of the river, following a track marked by varied and creative rock cairns. That took us to the gorge rim. We followed along that for a way, then the track took us down into the gorge.

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Cairns marked the route to the Gorge

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The Barnett River down in its gorge

It was a lovely gorge, with red rock walls. It was quite wide, so there was enough light for a variety of vegetation to grow. There were pools and rapids.

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Down in the Barnett River Gorge

After exploring we had a swim/wash in a pool – extremely pleasant!

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Great place for a swim

This is a little off the main tourist itinerary so there were fewer people about.

It was about 4pm when we headed back. Even the walk back was enjoyable, though we did have to climb up onto the gorge rim again. We then drove back to our camp.

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Kimberley Rose by the walk track

Tea was mushroom and garlic pasta, followed by tinned fruit.

There had been some build up of cloud through the day and thus there was a really deep red sunset. There was a ring around the moon tonight – I was not sure of the significance of this, in these parts though.

There were lots of birds around our camp area. We heard a pheasant coucal call.

Today had been out wedding anniversary – great to be spending it in the Kimberley!


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2000 Travels August 9

WEDNESDAY 9 AUGUST     KING EDWARD RIVER

Another hot and sunny morning, but some cloud came in, during the afternoon. There was still considerable smoke haze around.

John used the radio to call some family members. He found out that Melbourne is still cold and wet! His artist sister asked him to try to get some photos that have the sun’s rays coming through clouds – that might be a bit hard, up here, at the moment!

After breakfast, we went for a walk following the river downstream, and were away for about three hours.

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King Edward River

We found some lovely rapids and little sets of falls.

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The river upstream from the camping area

Mostly, we were walking on slabs of rock.

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Rock slabs bordered much of the river

The river was extremely picturesque with varying views and “moods”.

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At one point, we spotted what was either a brown goshawk or a collared sparrowhawk, flying low over a big puddle;  it then settled on a rock in the water.

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We couldn’t quite tell if this was a brown goshawk

We also encountered a local resident – a dark red young shorthorn type bull or steer. He did not seem unfriendly, but we did not go too close. He seemed to be all by himself.

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Had lunch back at camp.

I made bread in the camp oven. Then we went swimming again.

We emptied the 25 litre jerry can of fuel into Truck.

Talked briefly with the tourist camp cook. She loves the area and the work and also does some guiding, too. Their guests come in for a night, go up to the Falls for a night or two, then come back here, and  on out. So she has quite a lot of time alone, and only groups of 7 or 8 to do for, anyway.

There are more people in the camp area, tonight.

Tea was bread, soup, fire-baked potatoes  and cheese – all very filling.

Phoned K. He has sent mail to Kununurra. He is about to become Australian Sales Manager for a big hotel chain. I am pleased he is doing well.

There was not so much red fire glow tonight. There was a pleasant, cooling breeze in the evening.

It had been a most enjoyable couple of days here. Have loved being able to swim so easily – and thus feel so clean. We are accumulating some very grotty dirty clothes though!


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2000 Travels August 8

TUESDAY 8 AUGUST     KING EDWARD RIVER

Today was hot and sunny, with more smoke haze.

D and R left for Barnett Gorge.

We’d finally had enough of the lilo-interrupted sleep! John went in the river with it and found a hole – in the flat top surface, not around the valve or a seam, as we would have expected. Left it to dry while we were away.

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Finding where the lilo leaks

We drove to the art site here that we’d heard about – back  near the river crossing. This was most impressive. To me, it was on a par with the Nourlangie rock art site in Kakadu.

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Rock art site near the King Edward River crossing

It was in an area where blocks of rock outcropped from the otherwise flat ground. There were a couple of galleries of Wandjina heads – these were quite eerie: the eyes seem to “follow” you. I felt they were benign, protective images, though.

The Wandjina were creation spirits. When they found the place they would die, they painted their image on rock walls, then entered the nearby waterhole. It was thought they ensured the coming of the monsoon rains, and for that reason they were repainted every year.

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Wandjina heads

There was a deal of other art work too, of a different style of red outlines and infill lines.

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We explored fairly thoroughly amongst the clusters of outcrops. Here again, the fires had been our friend, because some of the area had been burnt a while ago and thus it was easy for us to see where we were going and to walk around.

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Recent burning at the rock art site

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A different shaped termite mound

In our explorations, we found two skulls up on what must have been a burial ledge, with some other bones. I am not sure we should have seen those!

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Burual ledge – skulls and bones in there

Looking around this area was all a rather special experience.

We picked up some firewood on the way back to camp.

The lilo had dried while we were away and John tried to repair it by putting silicone on it. He was not sure if this would work, but it seemed the best option with the materials available. He later put repair tape over the silicone.

We went for a swim in the river near our camp. The water was cool and lovely. Lazed around for a while, then went for another swim – it was good to feel cool and clean.

This campground was not as busy as I’d expected. It has a composting toilet.

There was much bird life, especially butcher birds. Four brolgas flew in and did some feeding nearby.

There was a family camped down along the river who had been here since before D and R arrived – at least a week. Their vehicle was broken down and they were waiting on a part. The guy had hitched a ride to Drysdale River Station to arrange it. I imagined that getting the part, plus the services of the mechanic from Drysdale River, were going to cost a significant amount.

There was also a camp set up by a tourist company, further along – with permanent (for the season) tents. The camp cook was there all the time.

We got chatting to another couple of campers. The man runs an equipment hire firm in Mt Isa. He invited us to look him up next time we are in Mt Isa – which will probably be next year – and he will show us around the place.

Tea was udon noodles with stir fry vegies, then tinned fruit.

The fire across the river was very bright tonight.

John was not optimistic that the lilo repair would hold, but it actually stayed up all night. It felt so good to wake in the night and not be resting on the hard ground.

At night, there was a bush curlew chorus nearby – quite close. It sounded like there were several of them, calling to each other. It is a lovely noise.