This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2007 Travels August 29

WEDNESDAY 29 AUGUST     BROOME

I had extracted a promise from John that, after his focus on bowls and fishing of the past few days, today would be a dedicated “tourist” day for us.

M had left early, to go on a seaplane flight north, over the Dampier Peninsula, and then on a boat trip to the Horizontal Falls. These were at Talbot Bay, well to the north of Derby. The unique “falls” are caused by the really high and low tides of the area causing a bank up and rush of water through narrow openings to larger bays, creating a waterfall effect. She had booked with one of the companies offering transport to moored boat bases, from which the intrepid could travel by small boat close to, and when conditions were right, through, the Falls.

Warnings and prohibitions abounded around Broome!

We went to the Shell House which, as the name indicated, was both a museum of a massive collection of different shells, and a source to buy same. John wanted to investigate buying some pearl shell, to use as inlay in his woodwork. He was able to buy some shells. I bought a half shell that held three pearl “lumps”, like little pearls, in a semi circle near the rim. It was an illustration of how pearls formed and appealed to me as a “different” ornament to go on our mantle shelf at home.

John bought a little conch like shell necklace for his younger daughter. Hard to describe, but a little shell, edged with some gold (plating?) in parts, hung on a fine chain. Delicate and very pretty. I bought one too – for me!

Then, at China Town, I exchanged some books in the very good second hand book shop there.

At a nearby tourist shop, I bought myself a polo shirt with a Broome-related logo on the pocket. Had to work hard to resist buying a couple of gorgeous sarongs.

Next stop was the Windram Art Gallery. We had seen copies of the work of this Broome based artist elsewhere, and wanted to look at the range that was in her own dedicated gallery. I loved the style of her works – seemed to me to be evocative of the many varied faces of the Kimberley and area around Broome itself. Obviously, boabs featured prominently in some of the works.

An unexpected “find” at the Windram Gallery was the decorative pool at the front, which inspired me to think about redesigning our fishpond at home. This one was a large rectangle, fairly shallow, with decorative stones lining its base. There were very large goldfish cruising lazily about, with a few feature plants and larger rocks. Lights lit it at night. It was beautiful landscaping and I’d loved to have been able to import it to home, just as it was!

At this point, John got sick of browsing shops – never his favourite pastime, unless it was for something he wanted! He said his back hurt, so we retreated back to the van for lunch.

In the afternoon, drove around the Gantheaume Point to explore the natural features around there – as opposed to the “cultural” features of this morning shops!

The modern light that replaced the original light house at the Point

We spent more than an hour, scrambling around the unusual rock formations, exploring and taking photos.

There were such strong contrasts at the Point, between the rust red rocks and the opaque aqua coloured sea.

Special features out there were the fossilized dinosaur footprints and Anastasia’s Pool – a tidal bath carved out of the rock by a resident of the light house keeper’s cottage, in the 1920’s. Supposedly, this was a place for his arthritic wife to exercise.

Anastasia’s Pool
Dinosaur footprints

From the Point, we could look out across to the long expanse of Cable Beach.

Cable Beach – and plane departing from the Broome airport

John wanted to visit the Broome wharf. On our 1993 first visit to Broome, a walk on this jetty had been one of the few activities we were able to undertake. Most of the several days were spent sheltering in an on-site caravan from extremely heavy unseasonal rain. We saw more of the green tree frogs that lived in the surrounds of the van, than we did of the sights of Broome!

Fish dinner……

We found that security, in this post 9/11 age, meant that we could no longer wander out along the Broome wharf. But there was a narrow walkway out alongside part of it that was open to the public, so we did that. Not the same and not as interesting or leisurely, though.

Not the same appeal as walking on a normal wharf…..

We did find a fresh fish and prawn sales outlet out there, and bought some prawns to have for tea.

M arrived back late in the afternoon from her adventure. I had never before seen her so excited  and ‘high” on an experience. She absolutely loved it. The plane flight north had given her excellent views over the Dampier Peninsula. The seaplane had landed by a barge/pontoon, where they transferred to boats for the trips back and forth through the Horizontal Falls, which she said had been exhilarating. It was not a cheap trip, costing several hundred dollars, but had been worth every cent she said.

We had decided not to do that trip, because of the cost for two people. I had said to John that I wouldn’t mind (too much) if he wanted to go with M, but he had balked at the expense. Maybe one day……


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2007 Travels August 28

TUESDAY 28 AUGUST     BROOME

Just messed about camp in the morning. John slept late.

After an early lunch, it was off to bowls – more serious today than yesterday’s Scroungers. John and I came second in a Pairs game and won a $20 butcher’s voucher – a useful prize.

The plan was to go to the Town Beach in the late afternoon, to settle in there and watch the moon rise, together with an eclipse of it. I wasn’t sure what effect the eclipse would have on the famed Staircase to the Moon reflections on the ocean, but we were looking forward to it.

I was outnumbered two to one, on the subject of tea, so a take away chicken was purchased, to eat during our vigil.

The chook was awful. It was too smoky to be able to see the actual moon rise. So we went back to camp and saw the eclipse from there. A bit of an anti-climax, really.

Bushfire smoke across Roebuck Bay


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2007 Travels August 27

MONDAY 27 AUGUST     BROOME

After much debate with myself, this morning I went back to the bead shop in China Town and indulged in quite a stock up. I planned to make really good bracelets for the females of the family, as well as ones for M and me, and perhaps some anklets as well.

In Broome, one’s thoughts tend to turn to jewellery, because of the ever-present reminders of the pearling industry to be found. Pearls were responsible for the early growth of the town, and both directly through the modern pearl farms, and indirectly through tourism, have helped sustain it in modern times.

The pearl oysters found in these waters are very large ones, which meant that, from the start of wild oyster harvesting in the 1860’s, some large pearls could be found. But also, the large shells were an excellent source of mother-of-pearl shell, used for things like buttons and handles for cutlery sets.

Diving to gather oysters became the province of Japanese divers, adding to the multi-culturalism of modern Broome. In the first part of the 20th century, an exemption to the White Australia Policy was made, to continue to permit the Japanese divers in Broome.

The mother of pearl industry was decimated by the post WW2 development of plastics, but from the 1970’s, pearl farms concentrating on producing pearls for fine jewellery developed and efforts to promote this have seen a change in the image of pearl  jewellery and a revival in its popularity. The several outlets in Broome featured some superb items. I could easily spend a small fortune here – but to acquire some of the loveliest things would need one!

M and John went off together, fishing, from Cable Beach. They did not catch anything.

Broome streetscape


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2007 Travels August 26

SUNDAY 26 AUGUST     BROOME

It was very damp in the mornings, here. Sea mist or dew? There was much condensation under the awning roof, which dripped copiously on the table and anyone trying to use same, for several hours in the mornings.

John had organized that we three would, in the morning, play Scroungers bowls at the Broome Bowls Club. It was pleasant enough. They started early, to avoid the heat, so there was still plenty of the day left, after.

After that, we went to the markets in China Town. Didn’t think much of these. Yesterday’s Courthouse Markets were far superior.

I had a quick browse in a beading shop in China Town. They had some lovely materials – very tempting, but I resisted.

China Town – John being bored while I browse shops….

We had a Subway lunch at the Paspaley shopping centre – named for the family that is synonymous with the pearling industry in northern Australia.

We found a brilliant art gallery in that area.  It carried a lot of works from local indigenous artists, as well as the general run of items geared to tourist interest. I bought a wonderful painting by Melissa Waina, from Kalumburu. It was black Bradshaw type figures on a red brown background. Very effective and “different”. Her father, Kevin Waina, was also a talented artist.

M bought one of Melissa’s works too. A bit smaller than ours – and cheaper too! She bought a soft toy blue heeler dog, for a friend. M already travelled with a similar kelpie toy sitting on her passenger seat.

I went for an afternoon walk on Cable Beach.

There were bad bush fires around Broome – lots of smoke obscuring the sunsets. Apparently the worst of these was a control burn that got away! Red faces somewhere!

We had tea from Zanders take away at Cable Beach. We walked there from the caravan park. It was quite a wait for our order, but M and John’s fish and chips were excellent, as was my calamari and chips.

It was lovely to sit on the foreshore, eating tea and watching the evening light on the sea.


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2007 Travels August 25

SATURDAY 25 AUGUST     BROOME

I went for an early morning walk on Cable Beach. It might be legendary and all that, but it is really just another beach. We have seen better. It does have vivid sunsets, and it does have camel rides, but…..

Cable Beach

Whilst walking I got chatting with another walker, a lady from Melbourne who was staying at the Resort for a long weekend. Nice to have the life of some people……

At least, out here, there did not seem to be the groups of alcohol affected, yelling, fighting indigines that were so evident in the town areas, especially at night. From our past experiences here, early morning walking in town would involve picking one’s way through much broken glass and other rubbish, including that originating in the human body!

We went to the Courthouse Markets – along with a lot of other people. The atmosphere there was quite festive and very tropical. The stalls are set up in the gardens surrounding the old Broome Court House, as the name suggests, under lots of beautiful old shady trees.

Some of the stalls here were of a much higher quality than is often found at weekend markets. There were some very good jewellery stalls with unusual, local-related items. I bought pearly shell pendants for the three daughters, and unusual dichroic glass pendants for daughter’s partner, and myself. These were done in shades of vivid blue and red-browns, so evocative of the colours of Broome.

Bought a lovely smelling bath soaps pack for the errant daughter in law – in case a Xmas gift for her would be needed.

Another stall had items based on satellite photographs of Kimberley places and a few others of interest. (This was before the era of Google Earth, Zoom etc). I was really taken with a satellite image of the Kimberley, mounted on a lightweight board. It cost $90. but I thought it would be a real talking point at home, and illustrative of the area we had travelled this year. The detail was great. That whole northern Kimberley actually looked much more rugged on the satellite photo than it did, travelling it on the ground!

The same stall had a magnet with a sat photo of Antarctica. It looked like a slightly convoluted pearly shell – most unusual, so I had to have that too.

We bought lunch at the markets where there was a good range of “ethnic” food choices.

Also bought fresh vegetable and some fruit there – excellent quality.

We drove to the town shops, because it was where I could buy the Weekend Australian. Got sidetracked, first, by a stall that was selling floor rugs and bought a small one for the van, to go in front of the bed to help prevent the sand and grit from these ungrassed sites, that was finding its way into the bed.

Roebuck Bay at low tide

Refuelled Truck – $1.44cpl.

Spent the rest of the afternoon at camp, reading the paper.

Our not-so-spacious site at Broome
Cable Beach again


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2007 Travels August 24

FRIDAY 24 AUGUST   FITZROY CROSSING TO BROOME   400kms

Managed a reasonably early start, having been able to stay hitched up.

Refuelled – $1.44cpl.

Fitzroy River from bridge at Fitzroy Crossing. Caravan Park on right

Checked out the free camp area at Ellendale as we passed, but of course M was long gone – although we did wonder if her plans had worked out as intended, and she had even been there. Won’t know till we get to Broome…..

Today’s drive was less interesting than that of yesterday – no dramatic scenery of distant and near ranges.

The only points to note, amid the dry and dusty grass and scrubland, were the crossings of the impressive Fitzroy River – at Fitzroy Crossing and again at Willare Bridge, closer to Broome.

Fitzroy River from Willare Bridge

At this time of year, the river was a small flow in the huge river bed. It was hard to believe how high and raging it could become in flood times. In 1993, I’d bought a postcard of the caravan park where we’d stayed last night – with only the elevated amenity block showing amid the floodwaters from the river.

The Willare Bridge was one of the long, single lane bridges that feature in this part of WA. Again, it was hard to credit that, at times, Highway 1 could be closed here by the river in flood.

Willare Bridge (Google)

We reached the Palm Grove Caravan Park, at Cable Beach, Broome, about midday.

M was already there, of course. From her overnight stop at Ellendale, she’d had a good head start on us. She had found Old Halls Creek and its surrounding area, interesting, and worth the visit. But she had driven out to explore some of the area and at Caroline Pool had felt quite intimidated by a group of locals who told her white fellas weren’t welcome there. She didn’t stay round to argue the point.

The caravan park sites were on the small side, gravelled, but adequate. The amenities were reasonably modern, and clean. It was not the most upmarket park we’d stayed in, by any means, and really didn’t justify the $255 we paid for the mandated week’s stay. But, hey, that’s Broome.

M’s site was across the access road from ours, so at least that was convenient.

We heard that two of the Cable Beach caravan parks, including this one, had been sold, to be turned into resort units. That would put the squeeze on caravanners to Broome, even more. It was really hard to find a vacancy in a caravan park here, in the winter months. The overflow area used at this time of the year, at a gun club, was even hard to get into. It is one of those areas that poses real dilemmas for accommodation providers: in the winter months, a few more caravan parks could be easily filled, but for the rest of the year there would be insufficient patronage to be viable.

We set up, then went to the Information Centre in town, to see what we could suss out.

When I say, in town, it is because Cable Beach and the main Broome town were separated by a few kms  of scrub and industrial land. The original town of Broome, and the modern one that has grown up around it, is located on a peninsula that juts into Roebuck Bay. The much more recent development of Cable Beach is located on the other side of this peninsula, facing out into the Indian Ocean.

Broome and Cable Beach (Google)

We drove around the town, looking at the changes since we were last here in 2000. There had been a lot of development and building since then. Broome seemed to be really booming – we thought this might be due to the offshore oil and gas developments. Even Cable Beach seemed to be growing rapidly – and not only tourist resort development, but housing as well.

For our Friday fish and chip dinner, we walked from the caravan park, a few hundred metres, to a van parked overlooking Cable Beach, which did a roaring trade in take away food. The prices were reasonable, the food excellent. It was very pleasant, sitting looking out over the ocean, eating our dinner. Great to be by the sea again!


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2007 Travels August 23

THURSDAY 23 AUGUST   KUNUNURRA TO FITZROY CROSSING   670kms

We were away at 7.40am, for what we knew would be a long day of driving.

Rest area at the junction of Highway 1 and the road to Wyndham (Google)

It was, of course, going over the same stretch of road that we had driven a few weeks ago, last year, and a couple of times before that.  But the first part was very scenic, so it was not boring at all.

This time, there was diesel at Halls Creek! We refuelled – $1.45cpl.

We had intended to meet up with M again at the Ellendale free camp area, some 90kms beyond Fitzroy Crossing. But we had both had enough by the time we reached Fitzroy Crossing, so called in to the caravan park there, to see what was available.

They offered us a powered site in an ad hoc section away from their main caravan area. It was shady and reasonably pleasant. They were setting up to host some sort of large safari or rally, tomorrow, and so had been clearing out most of their powered sites for that. We paid $27 for the night.

Caravan park by the wide, sandy bed of the Fitzroy River. We were amid the trees on the upper RHS. (Google)

Just did a basic overnight set up. Because of where we were, we were able to stay hooked up, too.

In the cool of the late afternoon, wandered around the park – quite a pleasant way to stretch the legs after the long driving day.

A beautifully presented bower

Enjoyed a long shower in their good amenity block. Definitely better than the free camp would have been! We slept very well after the tiring day.


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2007 Travels August 18-22

SATURDAY 18 AUGUST – WEDNESDAY 22 AUGUST     KUNUNURRA

On Saturday morning I walked to the shopping area to get a newspaper. Browsed some shops. Visited the Saturday markets and bought some grapefruit and tomatoes.

Kununurra has so many superb boab trees

While I was away, John washed Truck and applied  vinyl protectant to all the necessary places. Truck looked a different vehicle to the dusty, dirty one that had come in yesterday.

We washed the outside of the van – that was allowed, here.

The Sleeping Buddha across Lake Kununurra

M arrived from El Questro. She had done some walking and driving yesterday, but decided that she, too, was ready for a dose of “town”. They put her on a site that overlooked the lake – pleasant, but a bit of a distance away from us.

Seen by M when walking – python digesting dinner

Son phoned. He’d had a great day with the Darwin branch manager. They even went to a rodeo! He would be flying out on the red-eye later.

On Sunday we went out to the rock gallery on the Packsaddle Road. John had a chat with the owner, who said he would cut John a nice slab of the type of stripey zebra rock he likes. We were to go back on Wednesday to collect it. John had in mind to carve shallow bowl like pieces to become Xmas presents for the offspring.

I bought a bag of assorted rock pieces, for $20. I had in mind to try carving these myself – to make earrings, perhaps, or bead shapes.

M bought a carved stone wine bottle holder rack – very “different” but also quite heavy and awkward to store in her Troopy for the rest of the trip. She only realized that later….

The Weekend Australian came into town  on Sundays, so bought one of those and enjoyed a thorough catch up on national affairs. Yesterday’s WA paper was not the same…..

Kununurra – the contrast of the irrigated areas

Refuelled Truck – $152cpl.

On Monday, M and I walked to the shops, in the morning, and to the Post Office. Then we explored some streets, walking on our way to meet John at a yard that also had slabs of the local rock. I think we inadvertently took a really circuitous route!

John selected several pieces of the rock. More weight!

Later in the day, he went out and organized buying a new tyre for Truck, as replacement for the one that blew out on the way to El Questro.

Dusk over Lake Kununurra

On Tuesday, M left to go to Old Halls Creek, to explore, for a couple of days. That was another place we had already stayed at.

John was basically just happy filling in a few days here, before we could head directly for Broome. Bit boring. I’d have preferred to Have left yesterday or today, and maybe had a couple of days in Derby, instead, as we hadn’t been there since our 1993 trip, But John’s quest for rock complicated it all.

Two views of the old Ivanhoe Crossing, from the western side

On Wednesday we went back to the gallery to collect the cut slab. It was lovely. John was so impressed that he had a second one done, too, and we waited there for that. It cost $120 for both.

We did some preliminary packing up.


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2007 Travels August 17

FRIDAY 17 AUGUST   EL QUESTRO TO KUNUNURRA   105kms

We had an early start.

Son left about 7am. In a later phone call, he reported that he reached Darwin just on dark, and that it had rained from Katherine onwards.

The final pack up…..

His visit to the Kimberley was all too short, sadly, but hopefully that tiny sample would give him the motivation to return here, before too much longer.

We did the LAST tent pack up of this trip. Actually, part of me was quite looking forward to getting back to the van, too. It was coming into the hotter, dustier time of year in the Kimberley – always more noticeable in a tent.

After a rather routine leg, we got into the caravan park at Kununurra just after 10am. This time, we were allocated a lovely, big, shady, proper caravan site. $26 per night.

Drove down to the storage area to retrieve the van and put it on site. Discovered that it had, in fact, been moved by the fire brigade. Seems part of their response to the bushfire that K and I had seen, was to do a back burn. This then got into the big compost heap and area of reeds near the van storage area, and was more of a threat than the original fire had been!

They had parked the van on a slope, with the jockey wheel in a big rut. Not a great combination with a Treg hitch! The handbrake had to stay on. The rut meant I couldn’t wiggle the van sideways to help line it up with the hitch. John couldn’t manage to get it exactly lined up. So he got us to swap, with him directing and me driving. We still couldn’t get it right. Eventually, he lost his temper and started yelling at me, whereupon a very nice man from a nearby camper trailer rig came over and helped me manhandle the van onto the coupling.

The van smelled really strongly of smoke, inside. Not pleasant.

We spent much of the rest of the day unpacking and putting things away and back into travel-with-van mode. Cleaned truck inside as we did so. Got it all done, but overall it was a hard day’s work.

Starting to set up the van on site at Kununurra

Drove to the Post Office and collected a bag of mail, that contained little of note. There were two books on building pizza/bread ovens, that John had ordered before we left here. There was also a bill for physio treatment I’d had on ankle, way back before we came away. Apparently my doctor hadn’t properly submitted a form that would have given me five free physio visits, so they had to bill me. So, back at the van, I wrote a note to doctor, asking if it could be remedied. I also phoned our accountant and made an appointment to see them about our tax returns, in late October.

Visited the supermarket to stock up on luxuries like fresh milk, and bread……and salad and fresh fruit……

The business of the normal world intrudes!

We celebrated – though that was probably not the right word – our return to civilization, by having fish and chips for tea.

TV again, for John. I did appreciate the decent mattress again, and not having to get down on all fours to get into bed. Or assistance to stand up out of bed. The aging knees don’t have the spring they once had – the plastic crates containing our food, in the tent, had more than one function….

It had been a great circuit through some of the more remote parts of the Kimberley – a good mix of revisiting some favourite parts we don’t tire of, and discovering some new places. We had, in fact, only been away from the van for a tad over six weeks – it felt longer. Had it not been for the timing of son’s visit, though, we probably would have been out there for another couple of weeks.

El Questro to Kununurra (Google)


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2007 Travels August 16(2)

THURSDAY 16 AUGUST – AFTERNOON     EL QUESTRO

After a rather late lunch and a bit of pottering about, we drove off to go to the jetty from where the Chamberlain Gorge boat trip would depart at 3pm.

El Questro is a working cattle station of some three quarters of a million acres. Back in the early 90’s it was bought, as a very run down and uneconomic cattle operation, by a young couple from Melbourne. They began to develop tourist facilities – initially the Village and  campground and a very up-market house. This was built beside the Chamberlain River, a branch of the Pentecost, and partly cantilevered out over it. The cost to stay there – with all services – was an eye watering amount, and some very prominent people have availed themselves of its privacy and uniqueness.

ElQ was sold to a large scale tourism operator – GPT – in 2005. It had come a long way in just the 16 years since inception to now. Some visitors make the criticism that it is too “commercial”, but my own view is that there is a place in the Kimberley – and similar environments – for a range of visitor offerings.

The drive to the boat jetty took us near the big house, but it was tucked away in its privacy down its No Access track.

The boat was quite large, flat bottomed, with a canopy roof for shade. We only puttered along, with the driver doing a commentary most of the way. We were, as the name indicated, on the Chamberlain River, which joined the Pentecost just downstream from the jetty, past the big house.

Chamberlain Gorge ahead

At one point a group of archer fish came to the boat – obviously used to doing so, and there were some large catfish amongst them too.

The waterhole in the river into the Chamberlain Gorge, is only about 3kms long.

The later afternoon light showed off the Gorge at its best

Close to the Gorge end, where the river clearly was becoming more shallow, the boat pulled into the side and we were able to disembark onto a large rock platform at the cliff base.

End of the waterhole in the Gorge

Here, the ripple rock formations were evidence of the sedimentary nature of the rock and its  origins under lakes or shallow seas.

Sedimentary ripple rock

I really liked that we had been able to get out and do a walk around for about 15 minutes here.

Rock shelf where we could walk around

On the return journey, we were provided with a glass of bubbly and platters of fresh fruits were passed around. Very nice.

The trip took about two and a half hours, It was well worth doing and value for the $40 each that it cost. The commentary was excellent and the scenery wonderful. It was evident that the Gorge continued much further than was navigable. According to the property map, it was possible to access places further up, via the 4WD Explosion Track.

Chamberlain Gorge continued well beyond the end of the waterhole….

Although it was getting late and the light was fading a bit, we drove up to Branco’s Lookout.

This involved crossing the Pentecost – or one of its channels – then quite a steep little climb up a 4WD track to the lookout point. I went with M, so son could travel with John, who thought he might be able to impart some 4WD techniques to the lad.

The views from the top were worth the effort to get up there.

Branco’s Lookout
Continuation to left from previous pic, showing the rugged range country of ElQ

We could, in the distance, see the big house, on a bend in the river.

Using zoom lens, the big house by the river

After we got back to camp, son went off to the Village, to make phone calls.

It was our last night here. Son had to leave tomorrow, to do the drive back to Darwin, then the flight to Melbourne, to be back at work on Monday. I would not have minded staying on here for another couple of days, to see a few more of the sights of the place, and do more walking, but John really wanted the comforts of the van again – proper bed, and his ever-present TV! M decided she would stay here longer, though.

It was our last night’s campfire. Just before tea I discovered, to my horror, that the old basket that had travelled with us since 1997, on the back seat of Truck, usually holding our thermos and lunch making needs, was borer or bug infested. It was absolutely riddled with little holes in the cane. It was some little piles of sawdust that alerted me to it, when I’d moved the basket, so the bugs were obviously active. It had a ceremonial cremation on the campfire.