This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2002 Travels June 8

SATURDAY 8 JUNE     MT ISA

Today was warm and pleasant.

After breakfast we drove to the shopping centre. I needed to stock up our food supplies for a few weeks – this was probably the last time we would be near a big supermarket for some time.

Topped up the Truck fuel – still 86cpl.

I bought the Weekend Australian and read that through the afternoon.

Late in the afternoon we packed up as much of camp as we could.

Tea was barra and fries – very nice.

There was a party at night in the house yard behind our van. It got rather noisy, but then the rather cold night seemed to drive them indoors and it quietened down. We could watch TV and then sleep in peace.


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2002 Travels June 7

FRIDAY 7 JUNE     MT ISA

There was some cloud build up again, today, but it was quite warm and rather humid. This was not quite “outback” weather and I decided it must be due to the Gulf, a few hundred kms north!

I did three loads of washing at $2.60 a load. It did not take long to dry outside.

We drove back to the seafood and ice shop and bought a chunk of frozen barramundi. It would make two good meals for us. The problem with only having frozen stock to select from was that the pack size of much of the fish was too big – and once defrosted had to be used in a couple of days.

Just pottered about the van for the rest of the day.

Tea was ham steaks and pineapple.


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2002 Travels June 6

THURSDAY 6 JUNE     MT ISA

The day started warm and sunny, but some cloud came up for a while, then went away again.

We took a picnic lunch and drove out to Lake Moondarra, nearly 20 kms from town. Refuelled Truck on the way – 86cpl.

On the way, called in at the seafood and ice  supply shop we knew of from last time. All their stock was frozen, but there was plenty that came from the Gulf fisheries. We thought we’d get some tomorrow.

Lake Moondarra was made by building a dam across the Leichardt River, which originates in the hills south of Mt Isa, and flows roughly northwards to the Gulf of Carpentaria, near Burketown. The dam, built about forty years ago, was intended to supply water to the Mt Isa Mines, but has also become the main source of the town’s water.

The lake was large, and quite scenic. It was unusual, to me, in that it supplied water for Mt Isa, but activities like fishing, swimming and boating were still allowed on it. I am used to Melbourne’s water storages, which are fenced off so people cannot even put a toe in them! It made me determined not to drink the tap water!

After lunch, John fished, got some bites, but did not catch anything.

I watched the variety of water birds that were on and around the lake: stints, pelicans, dotterels, herons, grebes, egrets, ducks. I did some knitting.

When John was sick of fishing, we went back to the van.

I noticed there was a travellers’ van with a sign outside, offering haircuts, so I approached the lady, and had my hair cut by her. She did a good job too, for $15.

Then we drove back to the shops, so I could collect my photos. John bought some more fishing gear. I was reasonably pleased with my photos.

John went off to bowls, for 7pm. The $8 fee to play included a BBQ tea, he said.

I made myself a very nice salad tea – my sort of food!

John got back about 10.30pm. The bowls had been alright. The BBQ was after the bowls, so he’d just had it! More supper than tea. He wasn’t best pleased with the lateness of his meal.


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2002 Travels June 5

WEDNESDAY 5 JUNE     MT ISA

Today was warm and sunny. It was good to be away from the chill wind and the millions of flies of further south!

We drove to the Information Centre and browsed about there for a while.

Then it was off to a series of shops. I put films in for processing – the Kodak Express shop was very busy. John bought some items that he thought might fix Truck. At KMart I bought a couple of novels. John found globes to suit his really bright torch – he was really pleased about this. He also bought some glues and other oddments.

We had a late lunch back at the van.

I spent the afternoon knitting and reading. Now I have a grand daughter, there is some purpose to the knitting!

John spent the afternoon playing games on the computer.

Tea was potatoes and frankfurts – John’s choice. Yuk! I don’t know why John likes those things. The potato was nice, though


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2002 Travels June 4

TUESDAY 4 JUNE   BOULIA TO MT ISA   295kms

There was not much packing up needed this morning, and we’d stayed hitched up overnight.

We waited for the initial departure rush to get gone from the town, before we left.

Refuelled – the diesel at $1.07 a litre, was a bit costly for Qld, but there is no competition here. He had a captive market, given the distances between Boulia and anywhere else. We just put in 35 litres – enough to get us to Mt Isa.

The road north was a one strip bitumen one, all the way to Mt Isa.

It was an interesting drive with considerable variety.

There was a section that we thought was the edge of the Barkly Tableland of the adjacent NT – flat grasslands, but with some trees and bushes, unlike the true Tablelands, where the cracking clay soils prevent shrub and tree roots getting established.

There were some dramatic hills and ranges, especially after Dajarra, and as we approached Mt Isa. We crossed lots of dry stream beds – on cement floodways rather than bridges. I guess that in such a dry area, the times when these would flow and affect road traffic would be very few. The stream lines were better wooded and these areas of trees helped provide the variety.

At one stage, John pulled over and braked sharply, as a truck appeared, coming towards us. The radio made a severe static noise, which then persisted whenever the brakes were used – until we turned it off altogether. Then John noticed that the rev counter would stop working, below about 2600 revs, but jump back into action when they got higher. He was not sure what was going on, whether the problem was in Truck or via the connection to the van. Also uncertain was whether things would get worse! It was a rather inhospitable area in which to break down!

We stopped for lunch in a hot, open, area beside the road. John hadn’t managed to find anywhere to pull off near any of the several pleasant creek crossings we’d passed.

Whilst eating, I saw a man cross the road, on a crest in a cutting in the distance. This seemed rather strange, as there was no parked vehicle evident beside the road. I think I have become rather more alert and suspicious since the Lees/Falconio attack and disappearance, last year. So, I was not happy when John decided to temporarily disable our vehicle by taking out the fuses to inspect them! We eventually got going again, and then I saw that there was a road grader, parked up in a cutting – but now there was no sign of the man who we now presumed to be the driver.

Fiddling with the fuses had not fixed our problem.

We had not come into Mt Isa from the south before. It is not a town that seems to have any attractive approaches. All very utilitarian, with a dominance of power poles and lines, and all looking very dusty.

We went straight to the Sunset Caravan Park, where we’d stayed in 2000. I booked us in for five nights, at $17.10 a night, after discount.

We found the park was still only average, but better than most in the town!

After setting up, we drove to the Post Office and collected a bag of mail from home. There was little of interest in it, although the notes from the house sitter were amusing. There was nothing from our assorted offspring.

John checked out the Bowls Club. He booked in to play Thursday night. The reason I booked us in here for five nights was so he could play bowls on Saturday – but there is no game then. I can’t win! Now, five nights in this town seemed excessive!

I phoned Lawn Hill National Park, to the north. Was told that their camp area is booked out until July. That was OK as I had a preference for staying at the nearby Adels Grove campground, anyway. I phoned Adels Grove and booked us in there. I asked if M and H were there, thinking I could leave a message for them; was told they had been pencilled in for yesterday, but hadn’t arrived. I left a message anyway, in case they did arrive there.

We treated ourselves to bought pizzas, from a pizza chain shop. The anticipation was far nicer than the reality!

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2002 Travels June 3

MONDAY 3 JUNE   HUNTERS GORGE TO BOULIA   180kms

The morning was still chilly, and windy.

We managed to get breakfasted, packed up, and away, quite early.

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Leaving Hunters Gorge

The unsealed road out to the Boulia-Winton road was much better than the road we had come in from the south on. There were the occasional lumps and bumps and dust areas, but not the huge bulldust sections of the other day. Most of it seemed to be station tracks. The track went virtually to the front door of Springvale Homestead – another Stanbroke Pastoral Company property – they are all around this area.

We sidetracked a short distance to look at Elizabeth Springs – natural artesian mound springs, the same type of occurrence as we’d seen along the Oodnadatta Track in SA. But the mounds here were only low, grass covered rises, not the big mounds of SA. But there was still an evident flow, with open pools and a small wetland.

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Quite a useful flow in very dry country – Elizabeth Springs

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Low mound formed by deposition around a spring

There were salty residues at the edges of the water, in some sections, suggesting that the outflow levels have dropped. There could have been quite an impressive wetland area here, before the Great Artesian Basin became depleted.

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Salty residue on the water’s edges

We spent about an hour wandering about the Springs area, and taking photos.

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Elizabeth Springs

Further on, on Canary Station by now, we came across a couple of different mobs of cattle, being droved by riders on horseback. This appealed, as a real “outback” scene.

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Cattle droving on Canary Station

The final 25kms of the journey was on a sealed road – albeit a narrow strip – of the Winton road.

We reached Boulia in the early afternoon, and went straight to the caravan park. We had been here in 1999, after our Simpson Desert crossing.

After a minimal set up for an overnight stop, we walked across the river bridge, to the main street shops. John bought a fly net for his hat.

At the new Information Centre/Min Min Light display, i bought some postcards. The charge for going into the display section was $11 a head – too much for us. There was a bus load of elderly travellers in there, though. The Centre seemed to be doing ok – that sort of interpretative centre of local features has become very popular with visitors now.

The little caravan park was much busier than when we were here nearly three years ago. However, they hadn’t improved the donga amenities any! At $12.10 a night, it really was rather over priced.

We were not on a proper site, but pulled up alongside the kerb of a grassed area. This was fine for our overnight stop – grass was quite a luxury!

The park became more crowded later in the afternoon. There was a variety of motor homes in evidence, and I wondered if they had come from a get-together somewhere.

The lady in the General Store in town had told us that the road south from here to Birdsville was still not sealed. She said that when the government changed in Qld and the ALP came into power, they withdrew the funding that had been allocated for that work. I guessed there were not too many ALP voters out Birdsville way?

The Burke River that borders the park was much lower than when we were last here.

Despite the rather basic amenities, it was wonderful to have a shower, and to wash my hair. The last shower was back at Windorah! There was a definite brown scum on the residue that rinsed out of my hair! Diamantina dust!

The mobile phone worked, here. There were messages from cousin M and H, who were aware of our vague route, and had been waiting in Mt Isa, as they knew we were going to be there around about now. The final message said they had decided to leave today, and head up via Lawn Hill National Park, to Adels Grove. Oh, well.

Tea was ham steaks – the nice ones from Charleville that I’d had frozen, pineapple (from a tin), and Greek salad. I’d managed to buy some salad makings at the General Store.

TV signal here was great – but unfortunately the available programs were not.

John spent some time playing computer games – no need to conserve power now!

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2002 Travels June 2

SUNDAY 2 JUNE     HUNTERS GORGE

The day was still sunny, but with a chill wind that made it feel quite cold. This was to the extent that we sat inside the van to eat breakfast – most unusual for us, because we like to sit looking out at whatever view we have.

Drove to the Ranger’s base, to pay for our extra day.

We were greeted by a most unexpected sight – a moving sail in the distance, on the flat, arid, stony country! Closer up, it was a little sail powered go-cart type of thing, being ridden by his wife, with dog racing alongside. It seemed to speed along on the firm, stony, surface, but would not be much good in sand. Out here, I guess, the residents have to find ways to amuse themselves. From the Rangers base, there was not even much in the way of interesting walking – given the nature of the occasional floods of the river, the base was away from any timbered channels.

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Speed machine. The apparent water in distance was a mirage

The Ranger was very friendly, and showed John over his great solar panel set up, with its huge array of panels. $200,000 worth, he told us. The solar set up ran all the house electricals. There was a very large bank of batteries, too. This set up would – eventually – save money on diesel to fuel generators, and get round the hassle of transporting large quantities of same, out here. He said it was all remotely monitored and controlled from Perth!

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Really large solar panel array. Storage batteries under the roof

This park was so off the tourist trail! There were twelve entries, to date, in the Visitors Book, for 2002.

I asked about the ruins we saw on the circuit drive – Ingledoon? He told us that these were originally thought to have been police barracks, but now they were believed to be from the original settler in the area, as they had found some ladies’ artifacts. It seemed someone needed to do more research on the place.

They definitely need a feral car eradication or, at least, reduction, program!

From Ranger headquarters, we drove a short way along the road to Winton, then turned west to go to Janet’s Leap Lookout. This took us onto an escarpment on the other side of the Diamantina Gates from where we had walked yesterday.

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The track to Janet’s Leap

I wondered about the origin of the Janet’s Leap Lookout name and later found that it was a relatively modern one. When Janet Holmes a’Court sold the Diamantina Lakes property some local remarked that she might as well leap off the cliff there as sell it to the National Parks, for all the good it would do. I for one, am very pleased she did sell it this way, and people like us can get to visit the place.

Apart from showing us the river from that angle, it also showed a totally unexpected expanse of dissected hills and valleys to the east – sort of tableland country. It would be spectacular for photography.

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Dissected breakaway country, seen from the Lookout track

To us, that area to the east looked like the opal mining country we’d seen around Quilpie and Winton – guess it is really not that far from Winton. Had we seen that before talking with the Ranger, I’d have asked if there had been historic opal mining over in that part of the Park.

From the Lookout, we could clearly see the Diamantina Gates, and extra waterholes along the river channels.

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Diamantina Gates from Janet’s Leap Lookout

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Channel and waterhole from Lookout

We’d seen photos at the Ranger Base, taken in the floods of January 1999. The waters were all around the low rise that the Ranger’s house is on, and way out across the flat plains. He said that some of the channels had been filled to more than 6 metres deep. Their airstrip would have been well under water. I’d tried to imagine what it must feel like, isolated out here, with even that means of access to the outside world cut off.

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From the Leap Lookout, could see the river channels spreading out over the flat plains

 

Back to camp, where we packed up as much as we could.

The other couple were back. They’d checked out Gumhole, as a more sheltered alternative camp, but decided they preferred Hunters Gorge.

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From our camp, in the late afternoon, the other end of the waterhole

We had a last, final, sit round our campfire, watching the sunset and then the stars.

There was an owl in the tree over my head. I hadn’t seen it, but earlier the honeyeaters had been making a fuss around the tree, and I’d wondered why. I only saw it after dark, when it suddenly flew off – and frightened me!

Tea was mushroom soup from a tin, corn cobs and left over fish cakes.

After we went in the van, John plugged the laptop into the inverter and had a little computer time.


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2002 Travels June 1

SATURDAY 1 JUNE     HUNTERS GORGE

Today was the first day of winter! The temperature monitor registered 4 degrees overnight, inside the van. Today was fine, with a lovely clear blue sky.

Both other sets of campers left, so we were on our own again. I guess most of the few travellers who venture this way, did not stay as long as us. But we really wanted to explore as much as we could, but without rushing around.

I made bread, using the bread maker and bread mix from a packet. Pottered about camp while that was doing its thing.

After lunch, we went walking, up the waterhole to the gorge and past where it narrowed. The waterhole petered out into lignum and high grass, with some dry or swampy channels.

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The top of the water hole ended in a swampy channel

We climbed up a bluff, then, onto the hill tops. There were great views to be had from up there – to the Ranger base in the south, across to other hills in the east, and over the Diamantina channels. The two gorges of the Diamantina Gates were very obvious from above, as was the flatness of the plains to the west and southwest.

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The “gate” effect is clear, here

 

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Looking south from the scarp, along a main Diamantina River channel

There was an excellent view over our camp.

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Could just see the van, parked beside the waterhole

We walked around on the hill crests, to a narrow valley around from the campground, then picked our way down this.

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It was a pleasant walk, apart from the hordes of flies hitching a ride.

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John’s passengers!

Back at camp, we fired up the HF radio, and did a sched in with the VKS737 base.

A couple arrived late in the afternoon, and camped further along from us.

A wind came up and it grew increasingly cold again.

Tea was fish cakes, with brussells sprouts – the latter much to John’s disgust!

It was too chilly to sit outside this night, due to the wind, so we read inside until bedtime.

We could hear dingoes howling in the distance – always a wonderful sound.

We decided to stay another day.


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2002 Travels May 31

FRIDAY 31 MAY     HUNTERS GORGE

It was cold overnight, down to 5 degrees, according to the monitor in the van. The morning was cool, but fine. At least, while it was cool, the flies were not about.

After breakfast, we set out to drive the 90kms Warracoota circuit drive. Carrying the extra fuel, as we had, enabled us to do such exploring.

We used the National Park’s mud map, but there were no interpretative notes, which was a pity. I didn’t know whether that was due to there being such small visitor numbers here, or because the Park has only been established for ten years, and there was so much to do.

The drive did take in representative environments of the Park – we managed to establish that much.

We began at some modern cattle yards. These still looked used, and moo-poo we saw on the tracks suggested that there were still cattle in the Park, yet to be mustered off. Later, we saw a group of eight or so. They were in very good condition, considering the drought. I wondered if the Ranger occasionally included free-range beef on his menu?

The track ran along a valley between red, low, sand dunes – Gum Creek valley. It deviated to a small waterhole. Then we came onto gibber stone washes and plains. There, we saw another gibberbird.

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Red sand country on the Warracoota Circuit Drive

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Gibberbird

In a low-rise section of better soil and low trees, we saw a Weebill – tiny and brilliant yellow.

The track then went across cracking clay pans with Mitchell Grass – the cracking clays made for a corrugated track. We disturbed a dingo, that ran along the track in front of us, for a distance, before becoming smart enough to turn off to the side.

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Dingo in distance

 

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Trying very hard to out run us!

We saw Lake Constance – dry as a bone. It would be lovely with water in it. There were horse hoof prints there.

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The dry Lake Constance

The bush flies were horrendous – possibly because the day was warm, with no wind.

Had our lunch at Warracoota Waterhole. Despite the drought, this was still huge in length – we couldn’t see its end. I presumed that it was replenished whenever the Diamanatina flooded. It must have been really deep, to not have dried up.

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Warracoota Waterhole

Near Warracoota Waterhole, we came across the ruins of several stone huts – this may have been an ill fated settlement of the late 1800’s, called Ingledoon, but we couldn’t find any other information about them. The ruins were right by the National Park boundary.

From this point, we had some doubt about the right way to go. The mud map we had showed that we were to back track for a little way, then take a track to the north. But as we’d driven in, we hadn’t seen that track turn off. But a graded track seemed to continue on from the Waterhole, westwards. A dilemma. But we decided to try to do what the mud map suggested, drove back the way we’d come, and found the northwards track – there was an arrow on a post, but it had been hidden from view on the way in.

The track deviated around the extensive and tree-edged Warracoota Waterhole.

There were no more of the cracking clay stretches, fortunately, as they had been by far the roughest part of the drive.

It seemed fairly soon that we came to a big “tank” – where a creek had been dammed. There was even a cement and boulder spillway. There was still a sizeable pool of water there. It would be very extensive – a lake – after good rains or floods. We explored around that for a while.

After that, we were soon back at the main west-east track that would take us back towards camp. But on the way, we deviated to have a look at the Gum Hole camp area. It was on a small water hole, and the camping area was fairly small. It was nowhere near as scenic as Hunters Gorge, but it was certainly more sheltered. There was no one there.

Overall, the circuit drive had been really worth doing, with just enough variety and points of interest to keep from being at all boring. It certainly showcased a variety of the local mini environments. I was so pleased that we’d carried enough extra fuel to be able to do this.

When we got back to camp, there was another lot of gear about a hundred metres from us, but no vehicle. It was about 4pm by then. We were pottering about camp when a Toyota and a Cub camper came along the track, and parked just across the nearby little gully from us. It was a couple. When I walked by, on my way to the toilet, they apologized for disturbing our peace! We chatted, briefly. They had been here last year and were now on their way to the Kimberley. I thought that, if they liked a place like this enough to return, they were our sort of people!

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Our Hunters Gorge camp

The car from the other camp came back near dark. There were three people. They were rather noisy – and lit a bonfire, rather than a campfire. They were not our sort of people!

I watched two feral cats prowling on the other side of the waterhole – through the binoculars. One rushed at a group of pelicans on the bank – who flew safely away.

I marinated the remaining perch in garlic, ginger, chilli and lime juice. It was nice, cooked, with leftover coleslaw, followed by cheese and biscuits.

We sat out by our campfire. It was not as cold as last night, so we were out there until about 9.30pm. The moonrise was later tonight.

A cat jumped onto the table where we had eaten our tea. They were certainly bold. I thought that a trapping program at the camp area was well overdue.

We listened to the evening news on the radio. There was no mention of our green streak of last night, but there were reports of a meteorite, to the east of here, seen last Tuesday about 6pm. So maybe there was a little shower of meteorites happening?


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2002 Travels May 30

THURSDAY 30 MAY     HUNTERS GORGE

It seemed very cold overnight, and we needed to really snuggle in under the doona, but it became a fine, sunny day. I guess that is the nature of the interior country at this time of the year.

The bush flies, in large numbers, became very sticky and annoying, through the day. Fly nets called for.

Watching the waterhole “unfold” in the early morning was lovely – so peaceful and serene. The morning light shone on the bluff opposite – it seems to be at just the right angle to get light on it most of the day, so it was nearly always spectacular.

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Dawn over the water hole

When there was no wind, the bluff was reflected in the water. When the wind was blowing, the waterhole had a variety of colours, from pinky-orange, through yellow to brown, even a blue.

The pelicans cruised slowly past, going first one way, then the other, occasionally fishing for something.

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This place was so worth the trip in.

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We stayed around the camp all day, just enjoying it.

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There were often feral cats on the tree branch above our camp fire area

The two men from NSW that we’d encountered on the way in, came from their camp at Gumhole to fish here, further up from us. They caught fish. John went and fished, too, and talked with them. They caught four perch, and then gave John their leftover prawn bait. He then asked them to the van for coffee and we talked for a while. One of them has a wife who will not travel with him, even though he’d bought a caravan of her choice. It is so hard for me to fathom some women! So he travels with his mate, and they were off to the Kimberley, via the Tanami Track.

After they had gone back to Gumhole, and after we’d had lunch, John caught a couple of small perch, and a bigger one. They were very fatty to clean, but would do for two meals.

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I read, and watched the birds. A group of spoonbills had flown in and more pelicans. There was a pink-eared duck on the water, and more Pacific herons had come. I saw a snakebird (Darter) catch and eat a fish – it manoeuvred the fish round and round, as the heron had done, yesterday, then down it went. I could see the bulge go down its neck. Then it went and perched on a log – guess it was digestion time! There were some cormorants perched on branches and logs, for a while, with their wings spread out, drying.

Late in the afternoon, we went for a short walk, up as far as the camp area extends. There were some wired-off revegetation areas. We saw no other campers. The NSW men had told us there were some others camped at Gumhole, but they’d not found them very friendly.

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Up near the end of the waterhole by the Diamantina Gates

Tea was fish and fries. The perch was very nice to eat.

After tea we sat huddled close to the fire – the night was cold.

The feral cats were prowling around again. I saw two tabbies and a ginger one.

The moon rose about 9pm. About 9.20pm, John saw, above the ridge behind the van, a streak of bright green light, with bits shooting off the streak, like fireworks rockets. It went down at an angle behind the ridge and disappeared. We thought it might have been a little meteorite?

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