This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2009 Travels May 29

FRIDAY 29 MAY      LIGHTNING RIDGE TO ST GEORGE   245kms

We did not have too much to do, to get away, after doing most of the pack up yesterday.

We stopped in town. John wanted to buy the local paper, in order to read more about some local land possibly being opened up for mining! He had a quick look at a few opal stalls set up opposite the “craft market”.

Today’s was a pleasant drive. The country was varied enough to be interesting. At one point the highway passed close to the Coocoran Lake, but we couldn’t see any sign of surface water. Maybe it was mostly dry?

We stopped in Hebel, just after crossing into Qld, partly for a break, and partly due to curiosity. A previous boss of ours had lived here for a while, a decade or so ago. He and then wife had the store here, and he also dabbled in opal fossicking, presumably at Lightning Ridge. We wanted to see what the store was like, having heard O talk about it.

Hebel store

It was interesting, although I found the downhill slant of the rough interior floor a tad tricky. We got chatting to one of the residents. They were under the impression that our previous boss had totally owned the property where we’d worked, instead of being a part owner and resident manager. They also thought his recent marriage was to a Parisienne lady, rather than a nurse from Brisbane. I knew the bush telegraph could distort things, but really?

Hebel was one of the tiny settlements that made you wonder how it kept going. Just a store and a hotel. It would originally have been established as a border station, back pre-1900, when customs duties existed between the states. Hebel was only a couple of kms from the border.

Central Hebel. Compare the size of our rig, on the right, with the road train!

After Hebel, there were increasing signs of irrigation and cotton farming, though the latter was not as obvious as I had expected.

We stopped for lunch at Dirranbandi, a little town trying hard to be attractive, but the number of businesses with For Sale signs, indicated that the town was battling.

Dirranbandi

John was getting sleepy by the time we reached St George. He had gotten out of travel mode.

We had a look at one caravan park, but thought it looked too small and crowded. So drove on to see what the Pelicans Rest was like – much nicer, newish, on the edge of the town. They had a long row of drive through sites, as well as conventional ones. All were well grassed. Grass! Green! The amenities were modern, nicely tiled, clean. All very pleasant after the rather rough and ready Lorne. $22 a night – good value.

We set up, then followed the usual ritual in a new town i.e. drove to the Bowls Club. There was no-one there. At the newsagent I ordered tomorrow’s papers to be kept for me. Checked out the location of a cafe for fish and chips – it had been a while since we had a bought fish and chips indulgence.

In cruising around the town, we found the Information Centre, so had a browse there and I bought some items. These included a card for younger grandson, with a picture of a bush curlew on the front, which when opened makes the sound of a curlew. Reckoned he would love that, though it might give him a fright when first opened. Not sure how well it would be received by parents, either, come to think of it. They might not thank me….

Went on to have a look at the Balonne River, which edges the town. This was bigger than I expected but made more so by a weir that held back water – presumably for irrigation. The highway to the west crossed the top of the weir, which had impressive towers along one side, that were part of the system for raising and lowering the weir gates.

As we drove back past the Bowls Club, there were signs of life. John went in and came back saying he’d booked BOTH of us to play tomorrow. He was going to owe me a lot of walking now!

From the cafe, we ordered our fish and chips, for collection at 6.30. Then it was on to the supermarket so John could buy a brush to dubbin his shoes, which had dried out from the white dust of the opal fields. I had a tin of leather dressing in the van, for my leather handbag, but usually applied this lightly with paper towel – no good for John’s shoes.

The caravan park had become quite full; probably a lot of overnighters.

We were allowed to wash our vans here. That was unusual, these days, but could help explain the lovely green grass.

After an adequate fish and chip tea, had an internet session.

We had TV again, after wonderful weeks without. John would be watching it long after I had gone to bed. I had, over the vanning years, trained myself to go to sleep despite background noise from the TV, or computer games – or both at once…..


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2009 Travels May 28

THURSDAY 28 MAY     LORNE STATION

The morning was cloudy.

T had not been sighted by the time we left to drive into town. Funny, that.

We went to the Opal Bin shop, where the lady rubbed down three of John’s opal pieces. I wasn’t sure if these were bits we bought or found; they’d sort of gotten mixed together. A nice looking piece that from the side had great green flashes on blue, came out plain blue on top, and so no good. She said the other two bits were worth cutting and directed us to a man who did cutting for other people. He agreed to cut the two stones and we could collect them later in the day.

This rather says it all about the town…..

While we were at the Opal Bin, I bought five pendants of rubbed/tumbled stone with little opal veins through. They were unusual and very pretty, not too expensive, and more modern than the usual opal jewellery. One was for me and the others destined for the family females – that was some of my Xmas shopping taken care of!

Did a quick supermarket shop, then it was back to camp.

It had begun to rain while we were in town, and I had this worrying idea that we were going to get rained in at Lorne yet again. But it was not as heavy, out at the station, and eased off. Then, mid-afternoon, there was a huge dark cloud looming, so we packed up much of the camp, hitched the van up and moved it to the more solid ground in front of the Hacienda. We still could access our power and water there. Just hoped the cottage wasn’t going to have any guests this afternoon.

Then we had to unhitch again, to go back to town to collect the cut stones.

Moved the van from there, around to the front of the Hacienda……..

We finished up with a small, irregular shaped stone that would be good to have set into a ring, and a larger, paler one, that could be for a pendant. I liked them, but John was disappointed. He’d expected them to be bigger – and also worth more than the $20-$40 the cutter valued them at! But, back at camp, they were admired by one of the lady campers.

I went up to the office and paid up what we owed. The $100 a week had been healthy for the budget.

After tea, a final sit round the campfire, with D.

We  had not intended to be here for this long, but it had been a great stay, and I’d loved it (except maybe for the few ultra muddy days).


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2009 Travels May 27

WEDNESDAY 27 MAY     LORNE STATION

I got up at 7.30. There was quite a bit of cloud in the sky, but some sunny breaks too.

By the time we got back yesterday, the campground had filled up more – helped by the road having been graded, I thought. Also, with all the floods and highway closures on the coast, some travellers had diverted more inland. The manager had even used a line marker to indicate “sites”, in order to maximise use of his powered sites. So, near us now were Jayco and Roadstar vans, the latter a young travelling family, with grandmother.

The Roadstar’s shower put out a huge amount of water onto the ground – which ran towards the bog hole in front of our camp. I was not much impressed with this.

The owls were still occupying their tree. I wondered if they had been new arrivals, in the rainy period, or if they had been there for ages, and I’d only recently spotted them.

I enjoyed having a casual, lazy morning again. I wrote diary notes and sewed, before John got up, then did more of the same after. I was feeling a tad stiff and sore after yesterday’s contortions  in the dumps.

John packed away most of our opal finds and purchases. He selected four pieces for examination in town, and maybe cutting there.

The two big vans next to us unexpectedly packed up and left after lunch. They were upset, apparently, because one of the several camp dogs that hung about T’s cottage, had peed in the kids’ shoes that were outside the van. They were also unhappy because there was only dirt for the children to play in! They’d paid for two nights, too, we found out – non-refundable.

After lunch went for another walk on the property. Near the old woolshed, saw a pair of red-capped robins on a fence. The male’s cap was an incredibly vivid red.

Walked across country for a little way, then took a different track from before. Came across some smaller dump heaps – later, C told us we could have noodled in them. Also found a quaint little hut and camp, near a dam and wetland area. It had a kind of garden, and some chairs outside. There were lots of birds there. It seemed recently used, so we wondered about its story.

Little hut – even with garden and outdoor living area….

Then we followed a power line to the main wetland outflow, with the agitators and the puddling dam. Found out later, from a book on display in the gallery, that this area was once the property’s best sheep paddock, before the miners set up the opal washing area here, and the sullage outflows ruined it. That led me to also wonder when the property changed over from sheep to cattle grazing.

Outflow from the old opal dirt washing area; very hard for much to grow there now

Also found out that the “agi’s” are still occasionally used.

No doubt that opal mining activity ruins the land for much else

Continued on, following a fence close to the current mining area. Passed another camp/cottage, clearly regularly accessed. We were told later that an artist lived there, some of the time.

We walked as far as within sight of the main highway.

As we walked back, met up with C doing one of her walking tours, coming down from the Lorne Lookout. Near the fence there, in the mining area, was a funny little cottage – inhabited – that looked like something out of a kids’ fantasy story book. It even had chooks!

Like an illustration from a fairy story……
with real, live chooks….

We tagged onto C’s tour. She couldn’t explain the origin of the railway relics back along the track.

C took us to the Gallery, which was set up in the old woolshed. It had quirky sculptures, made from camp and mining debris, for sale. There were also paintings, mostly in a kind of Pro Hart derivative style. Usually old woolsheds retain the smell of the active shearing shed, but not this one. A possum lived in there, and it stunk!

In the gallery was a book written by Patricia Waterford, the mother of the station owner. She had lived at Lorne back when the roads to Lightning Ridge were all unsealed, and life was much more one of isolation than it was today.

A few spots of rain fell while we were browsing in the gallery. The ants were right!

We must have walked about 6kms.

Strange stuff around the old pig pens…..never di figure out what this was.

We had the usual evening around the camp fire, and cooked potatoes in the coals. D joined us. He did not have a great day out at the Grawin today. I think he was a bit miffed at missing out on the opal we bought yesterday – and the backpacker has left! He seemed quite out of sorts.

It was T’s birthday. He cooked up a feed of bream – caught somewhere locally – for his “mob”, a number of people of indigenous origins who hung about around his camp – hence the camp dogs. He came over and asked if I wanted bream – I politely declined. It was a nice gesture from him, to want to share with us.

I spent part of the evening naming and ordering the photos downloaded onto my laptop.

About 10.30pm there was loud, drunken singing drifting across the campground. Somebody was going to feel lousy in the morning!


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2009 Travels May 26

TUESDAY 26 MAY     LORNE STATION

We left at 8am for the Grawin. Another early start for John! The lure of opal actually had him almost bounding out of bed.

The road past Lorne to the highway was graded yesterday and was great now.

We were at the heaps by 9am.

At the front of the Club in the Scrub

A lot of trucks came in to dump through the morning, including the old red and black one that all the experienced noodlers got excited about. We joined the others around the load as it was dumped, like crows around a rubbish bin. After working on that heap for a while, I think we’d found a couple of good bits.

Went down to Truck to get our lunch about 12.30.

One of the regulars – T – sold John a jar of very nice pieces. I thought he’d brought them out for D to have a look at, but D had decided to have a rest day at camp today. I suspected that might have been related to the presence at camp of a rather attractive young South African backpacker! Our gain. We did some haggling over the price, as expected, and in the end he came down from $300, we went up from $150, and settled on $200. Three of the pieces in the jar had a really good red flash in them.

Opal mining machinery

By mid afternoon we were weary, so drove back to camp, stopping to get firewood along the way.

D seemed to be rather skeptical about our purchase – until he looked at the pieces! He offered to buy a good piece that John had found, but we were not selling.

Both tired tonight, and to bed soon after tea.

At the Grawin


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2009 Travels May 25

MONDAY 25 MAY     LORNE STATION

There was some light cloud drifting across, this morning. On our walk on Saturday, the ant activity did seem to indicate more rain was on the way. They had rebuilt the walls around their holes after the recent drenching. Please, no!

Re-fortified ant nests

D and John left for the Grawin at about 8am. D had succeeded in getting an early start out of John!

I washed the sheets and towels, cleaned the van inside, and tried to get some of the dried mud off the annexe floor matting.

I took some photos of a pair of frogmouth owls that were trying to sleep in a nearby tree. It had just been a fluke that I noticed them – pretty well blended in with the tree.

Pair of tawny frogmouth owls up there…..
……better seen with zoom lens

A Jayco offroader came in:  a van that I view as one for smooth gravel roads at best, rather than a true offroader that will handle corrugations and rough tracks. It must have tried to tackle the harder stuff, because it was really badly rattly. Could hear it coming quite a long way off.

John and D came back about 4.30pm. They’d had an enjoyable day. D had noodled a nice piece, and done some buying. John found some oddments but he wasn’t sure of the quality.

We all enjoyed the roast dinner, which we ate at our outside table.

Now that John had gotten a fresh taste of what’s available on the dumps, he wanted to go out again tomorrow, but with me too this time, and in our Truck. He said D’s car smelled too strongly of dogs! So I was his “cover” – his excuse for taking the Truck!

So we decided – or John did – to stay now until Friday. That would make an exact three weeks.

Another early night. I had found it so pleasant to be living life without TV, these past couple of weeks.


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2009 Travels May 24

SUNDAY 24 MAY     LORNE STATION

Another fine day.

The 3 tonne Roadstar and the camper trailer left today. Later, three vans came in, so that was a measure of how quickly the road had dried out again.

We went into town, to the markets held at the Information Centre. It was a mish mash of stalls, many selling bottles of opal chips and uncut pieces, some selling polished stones. There was a lot of poor-value, “suck in the tourist” stuff. I bought some novels at a used book stall – the best stall in the market, in my opinion! John bought one piece of opal, for $10. D was there and did a lot of investigating. He knew some of the stall holders, but he did not buy much.

I had to do a supermarket stock up. D was taking John out to the Grawin tomorrow, in return for which he was invited to a roast lamb dinner tomorrow night.

D sorting out his acquisitions

After lunch back at camp, John went to bowls. He won $10. I “patched”.

Had a brief sit round the camp fire after dinner, but it was an early night for us.


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2009 Travels 23 May

SATURDAY 23 MAY     LORNE STATION

Fine weather again – even some blue sky.

Blue sky, and with only water-filled tracks as a reminder of the rain event

A station worker ran a bush “grader” – two big old tyres laid flat and weighed down by a sleeper across them, towed behind a tractor – over parts of the camp ground, to smooth it out a bit. I thought he’d had a go at the track to the road too.

The second Econovan left this morning.

D went into town and fetched our newspapers whilst he was there.

I got our washing done – and dry!

The ground under the annexe floor matting had dried out also, over the past day or so, and no longer oozed mud every time we looked at it. The matting was going to need a really thorough clean at some stage – didn’t really want to contemplate that, though. Not going to be easy, or pleasant.

Definitely shoes off at the door…..

After lunch, went for a walk on the property. The lady manager took walking tours of points of interest around this part of the station, but we wanted to take our time exploring by ourselves. We had picked up quite a bit of information about the place, whilst we had been here.

Our first destination was the Lorne Lookout, on top of a big mine waste dump, on the western boundary.

Forget the Black Stump……we went walking beyond the pink stump.

The station was about 10,000 acres in size. To its west was one of the oldest opal mining areas – the Three Mile and Lunatic Hill, where we’d explored on the Yellow Car Door tour route.

Apparently the father of the current owner had a lot of problems with the opal miners: digging mines on his land without permission, eating the “wild” sheep, making off with fence posts and fencing wire – not from stores, but from where they were actual fences! He eventually carved 3000 acres off the property and gave it to the Mines Department. Then, all mining on the remaining station ground was banned.

P – the owner – can’t dig for opal on Lorne, because then it would have to be opened up for all comers. But he did have a mine, on Lunatic Hill.

So, with that history, there were a lot of remnants of the earlier mining history around the station, like the waste dump. From its top, we could see a fair way over the surrounding farming country.

Outlook from top of waste dump on Lorne

We then followed the fence line between the station and the mining areas. Could see some current mining camps on the other side of the fence.

Came across what appeared to be the remains of a railway carriage, including the wheels. That was really incongruous and we speculated about how it got there. Could only presume that some old carriages may have been brought to the fields for accommodation? I thought we’d seen some doing duty as homes around the town?

Once was a railway carriage?

We eventually came to a large dam, with quite a lot of bird life around it.

Ring necked parrot

Nearby were three old agitators – the barrels of old cement mixers that were used to wash opal containing gravel in, to make it easier to spot the stones.

Agitators and a big heap of old dirt

Judging from the big heaps around these, they had obviously washed a lot of gravel in their time. They still had motors in, and looked in working order, so we wondered if they were still sometimes used? Maybe the station owner brought dirt from his Lunatic Hill mine and washed and sorted it here?

Old agitator with dam in background

Retraced our steps to near the waste heap, then followed tracks that brought us back to camp, via the old pig yards and the homestead dam. One could get lost on this place!

Old station pig pens

It was a really interesting and enjoyable walk, and great to get some exercise!

We had a camp fire again, at night, after having pasties for tea. The stars were so bright again – a very good sign, I hoped.


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2009 Travels May 22

FRIDAY 22 MAY     LORNE STATION

Today was fine. Through the day the ground began to dry out really quickly.

One Econovan left this morning and apparently got out without needing a rescue. Later in the afternoon, a camper trailer made it in.

John was able to borrow a ladder to undertake roof repairs.

He took off one of the rear solar panels and re-attached it. Said it was definitely better attached now. He put fresh silicone on some old screw holes he found, as well as on all his work. Where would we be without silicone? Hopefully, that had done the trick. The way this trip had been going, to date, there was bound to be some more deluges along the way! Later, this observation was to turn out rather prescient….

The Murphy’s Law of tools…..that which one needs most is always buried deep in back of Truck

I did some cleaning up in the van, which was showing the effects of our muddy feet of the past days.

John spent the afternoon having a pasty making session – all twelve of them! Four turned out to be vegetarian, because he ran out of meat. The van oven, which we hadn’t used for ages, lit immediately and worked perfectly. The surrounds got rather hot, as happened whenever the oven was on for any length of time, and was one of the reasons I didn’t use it often.

The pasties were excellent. D was invited to dinner with us, and given a couple of extras to take away for tomorrow. In return, he gave John some chips of opal.

That sky was still not cause for optimism…..

We had a camp fire tonight – the first since Monday, though it was hard to find dry wood. Out little woodpile had gotten very damp.

Today was the start of our third week here. It was certainly a much longer stay than I had envisaged.


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2009 Travels May 21

THURSDAY 21 MAY     LORNE STATION

Today was the birthday of John’s elder daughter. The other day he had mailed her a really nice card bought from the John Murray Gallery, here in town.

John Murray’s art has a very distinctive style and themes. Australiana caricature, I guess, with very much of a local flavour. I had bought some postcards from there; loved one that was a sort of cartoon style, showing an airborne 4WD and caravan, on a rough road. Hard to describe but real fun.

The rain did ease off somewhat in the afternoon. It was still grey, cloudy, damp and the ground was still a muddy mess.

The road was open again, if not particularly advisable.

We set out to drive into town for supplies – because we would not be getting the van out of here any time soon. Discovered that Truck was bogged, right where it was parked! This was shaping up as the trip of new bogging experiences. The previously hard ground had just gone so soft with the rain, and Truck had sunk where it was standing. Much head scratching ensued.

Wheels just turning in the one spot – not going anywhere….

D manoeuvred his car onto a small area of hard ground beyond the front of Truck and John hooked our winch cable around D’s towball and winched Truck forward and out of the bog – with everyone standing a very long distance away. Not recommended practice but it wasn’t a standard scenario either. Actually towing Truck out was not an option because D’s car was just a Holden Berlina and because there was just the one little patch of firm ground. John didn’t want to get him bogged too. That was today’s adventure – of the “you wouldn’t believe it” variety.

Using D’s car, on firmer ground, as a winch anchor point

The track to town was very wet. A small creek had appeared at the corner with the main road. It was very slippery. We just stayed in the wheel ruts made by others because that limited the sideways slipping.

We bought the necessary items for John to have a session tomorrow of making pasties as he’d decided that would be a very desirable way to fill in time! Also bought some screws because he would need to do some roof fixing, as well.

I was quite relieved to get back to camp in one piece and thought they had been premature in opening the road. D had continued to go back and forth in his Berlina, though he had stopped using the short cut track to the highway.

Our wheels on firmer ground….

This morning I’d discovered a small leak in the van roof, that was dripping onto the front of the stove. It must have only just started, maybe as the wind and rain swung around to a different direction. Another bane of the caravanner’s life – leaks! We suspected it was coming via a solar panel roof attachment. There had been occasional issues of that type ever since the original installation in 2002, by the incompetent clown whose misdeeds I have described in earlier posts.

We dropped one end of the poptop down to form a slope, and that stopped it – as well as the rain easing.

Through these wet days the only other tourist occupants of the camp ground had been D in a cabin, a family in an Expanda who had been here for six weeks, two Econovans that arrived not long before the rain, and a big Roadstar van, ditto. Just these few people, plus the assorted permanent dwellers, were sufficient to make the amenities floors a wet and muddy mess, despite the cleaner’s efforts.

The campground at Lorne….


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2009 Travels May 20

I was woken, just after 7am, by a text from daughter, asking if we were dry? I replied NO!

Initially I was surprised that daughter in Bendigo might even think that we had rain issues. Then via an internet search, found out that there was a nasty low pressure system over the coast of southern Qld, which had dumped much rain on the Sunshine Coast and Brisbane, and was now moving south. We were on its edge.  There were flood warnings for the rivers on the NSW north coast. It looked very nasty on the weather radar – I rather almost thought I didn’t want to know this. Might have been better if the internet hadn’t had one of its infrequent bouts of working, this morning. This early awakening by daughter also indicated that her knowledge of NSW locations was rather lacking: she thought Lightning Ridge was a lot further east.

The forecast indicated that things “might” begin to improve here, from tomorrow.

This was one occasion when I was prepared to concede that having TV in the van did have some value! If we’d had TV here, with weather forecasts, we might have followed the herd and left here before the rain.

Could there be a ray of hope in that lighter patch in the sky?

In the meantime, the road out of here was now closed. If it did dry out enough, we might try to leave here on Friday, when our second week was up.

Part of my rough trip plan had been to go and camp in the Mt Moffat section of the Carnarvon Gorge National Park. This was less accessible and thus less visited than the main section, which we had already visited back in 2002. However, from what I was now seeing, of road reports and closures, we would have to give Mt Moffat a miss.

Another day of sitting around inside the van, sewing reading, John gaming. I was able to send some emails while the internet was working.

It was days like these – mercifully rare – that led us to dream of maybe getting a bigger van. Maybe one with a couch? Our small dinette seats were not very comfortable for long hours of sitting, even though we had added extra foam padding and pillows.

With the two of us bumping knees and competing for table space, days confined here became tedious.

Because the bed went east-west, only one person could sit on this at a time – and not with any back rest because of the angle of the roof.

Today, dreaming also included a van with an ensuite. There was a lot of very muddy ground between  us and the amenity block, not to mention muddy flooring right outside the van door. Cleaning up after this lot was not going to be fun.

Getting from here to the amenities in the background involved muddy feet!