This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels July 8

SATURDAY 8 JULY     KUNUNURRA

It was another hot day.

After breakfast, I walked up to the street markets, held in the main park area of town. I bought bananas and some vegetables. Collected the Saturday papers too. That was today’s main exercise, though I did later have a swim in the very nice pool at the caravan park. The water was surprisingly cold.

John watched tennis and football on TV and pottered about.

There were more arrivals into the camp across the road. It is the Kimberley Christian Fellowship Convention. I decided that explained the cleaner, more purposeful and organized nature of the camp.

Tea was fried rice.


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2000 Travels July 7

FRIDAY 7 JULY     KUNUNURRA

Today was another day of blue sky and sunshine, around 31 degrees. It was actually becoming rather humid.

We had much to do to prepare for the Gibb River Road trek.

Because John wanted to watch Pat Rafter play at Wimbledon, and so did not want to be doing trip preparation, we would now not leave till Monday, so I went to the Office and “bought” another night.

We went to the CALM Office and bought an Annual Parks Pass for WA. It cost $51, but would get us free entry into all the National Parks that charge entry fees. We should recoup the cost quickly, as we are planning to be in WA until at least the end of next summer.

We did not shop for groceries today – John said we’d do that on the way out, on Monday.

A large group of aboriginals arrived and set up camp over the road from the Park, at the Showgrounds. They put up tents. There was much using of the showers over there and the noise of their abrupt chatter and calling. It was obviously some sort of organized group.

After lunch, we drove out to Hidden Valley National Park, or Mirima, which is just on the edge of town. It is a small park, day use only, that features really spectacular sandstone erosion formations. From their appearance, I presume they are closely related to the Keep River formations.

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Head Lice Dreaming rock formations. The little path can be seen, winding through the spinifex.

We did the 1km walk up to the main lookout. It was more rugged than I remembered from 1993 – maybe it is that I am older? The rough track wound up through narrow little valleys between the rock forms.

From the lookout at the top, there were expansive views out over Kununurra and across the irrigated country.

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That little walk was enough exertion for the day!

Tea was bought fish and chips.

There was another nearby cane burn, after dark.


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2000 Travels July 6

THURSDAY 6 JULY     KUNUNURRA

The days are becoming hotter – today reached 32 degrees.

I spent the morning reading up the information I had, studying maps, and firming up ideas for the Gibb River Road trip. I went over these with John, who was happy enough with my thoughts. He rarely becomes interested in the planning of trips. When pressed to become involved, he has been known to point at random to a place on the map and declare we will go there – regardless of road conditions, scenic attraction or other practicalities. The outcomes of these involvements have not always been great!

We went to the shops. Bought the right mantles for the kero lamp – as opposed to the wrong ones bought last time! We are beginning to accumulate cash money for the Gibb, as it is unlikely there will be many places with credit card facilities.

Tea was chicken and pineapple curry, with rice and corn. Very nice.

After dark, there was a big sugar cane burn nearby. Very spectacular to look at. As they do, it flared up really quickly, but also died down before too long. Much thick, black smoke was generated, along with a burnt sugar smell and bits of fine black ash drifting down. Sugar cane is burnt before harvesting in order to reduce the amount of leaves and green matter, and also to destroy harvesting hazards like snakes and disease bearing rats. As we had seen in Qld, some farmers are now harvesting cane without burning it, with modern machines that spread the unwanted leaves and other organic matter on the ground, as the cane stalks are harvested.

I just hoped that any wildlife taking refuge from the flames, did not come in this direction!

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Sugar cane burn, not far from the caravan park


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2000 Travels July 5

WEDNESDAY 5 JULY     KUNUNURRA

Today was another lovely day.

I did some washing, before breakfast. $3 a load here.

We walked to the shops, after breakfast. John bought himself a new watch – a cheap one!

After lunch, went driving again. Went out the highway to the west for a little way after the dam, then turned north on the unsealed Parry Creek road. Our goal was to go look at the Ivanhoe Crossing, from the western side.

The road took us over lots of little, shallow creek crossings. It was a pleasant drive.

We gained a very different perspective on the Ivanhoe Crossing, from this side. It looked as if it had broken up, somewhat, near this bank. It certainly looked totally impossible to drive through. The current and force of water rushing through was enormous.

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Ivanhoe Crossing from the western side. The Crossing curves around – white line of foam in distance is the far side of it.

John tried a short period of fishing, there – no good.

On the way back, we went again to the park area below the dam wall and watched the strong river flow from there.

Tea was pork strips in ginger, with potato and broccoli – nice.


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2000 Travels July 4

TUESDAY 4 JULY     KUNUNURRA

It was another lovely day, weather-wise.

In the morning, I walked to the shops for the paper. Bought some barramundi fish at the butcher. Checked out the two hairdressing places – both would charge $27 just to do a basic cut on my hair. I decided I might let it grow, for a while!

Then I wrote a letter to friend T.

John went out to look around the industrial establishments, more, and found another place to fix the Truck air-con – a refrigeration person. It did not take all that long and cost under $100!

Had a discussion with John about our movements for the next couple of months. I have been increasingly concerned that, with our somewhat late arrival in these parts, and the wish to be near Perth when the Olympics  are on, there is growing pressure to rush our time in the north west.

John made  phone calls to a couple of caravan parks in Karratha and established that one had adequate TV reception, so he was happy to change plans and book into Karratha for the Olympic period, instead. It was not my first choice of park there – that one told him that their TV signal was poor. At least, they were honest.

I phoned the Fremantle park I’d booked back when we were in Tasmania, and was able to transfer the September booking deposit to our Xmas period booking instead – so that will reduce our costs, then.

So – pressure eased somewhat. I was pleased. That gave us just over two months to get to Karratha. It seems adequate, now, but I am sure will go quickly.

John wanted to watch Wimbledon tennis on TV, as Australians were doing well to date, so it was decided we would stay on here until Sunday, so I went and extended our booking accordingly.

John appeared to have lost his watch! It was the expensive Casio I had bought for him in Jakarta in 1997. He can’t remember exactly when he had it last. He does not know whether he left it somewhere, like the showers. I suspect he might have put it down on top of the newspaper heap in the van – he has a tendency to strew things around. If he did that, it could have been covered up by the next lot of papers. I threw the heap out, yesterday, and the bins have been emptied! Either way, it appeared to be gone.

Tea was the barra, and fries.

There is a sizeable long-grass camp over the road from the caravan park – next to the Showgrounds. This is a rough camp where aboriginals camp, with little shelter – often they have come in from the outlying small communities, unfortunately because they can get alcohol here in town. They get quite quarrelsome, at times – we hear them at night.


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2000 Travels July 3

MONDAY 3 JULY     KUNUNURRA

In the morning, went to the shops. Bought some odds and ends at the supermarket, including filters for my water filtering jug.

We found someone – a Landrover dealer of sorts – who could fix the air-con on Truck. He quoted nearly $300. John was shocked! It did seem a lot. He said he needed to think about it.

The light industrial establishments in this town were rather hard to locate, being kind of scattered around in the housing sections.

After lunch, went to the Post Office to collect the mail. I had letters from three friends – a good batch! There was a phone bill – small, for once, and cheques for $14 in Keno prizes! Haven’t exactly made our fortune at that, yet.

We went for a small drive – out through the Packsaddle Plains irrigation area. This was across the Diversion Dam and then to the south, on the other side of the Ord River. Bought some bananas at a farm gate stall. I was shocked at the amount of wasted produce we saw – mostly water melons. Could not tell why there was so much mangled fruit lying about.

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Fruit wastage. There were lots of broken-open watermelons on the ground between the rows

Tea was sausages, potato, tomato.

After tea, I did some planning of food to take on the Gibb River Road jaunt. We will only have the Chescold fridge, so can’t take frozen meats. I believe the local butcher does cryovac meat packs, so they will keep for a while in the fridge. But mostly, we will need fresh produce that keeps well. Hopefully we will be able to replenish some stocks of fresh items at community stores – I remember being able to buy a chicken to roast at the store at Mt Barnett, in 1993! At the time, I had not expected to be able to buy such items along the Gibb River Road. We will probably only be about 4-5 weeks away from the van.


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2000 Travels July 2

SUNDAY 2 JULY     KUNUNURRA

It was a clear day that reached about 30 degrees.

We decided to do some exploring beyond the irrigated areas. After being at Keep River National Park, we were curious about the Keep River further downstream, so set out to try to go there. There was a track on my map that went to “Spirit Hills” and beyond that to “Legune” – in the NT, north of the National Park.

Drove out the Ivanhoe road again, to buy some more grapefruit, which we did at a farm gate stall.

Then we came back into town and went out the Weaber Plains road, past the sugar mill. The irrigated area extended for quite a way out there, which was good to see. Since all that effort and expense has been put into developing the infrastructure, one wants to see it well utilized.

Much of the irrigated land was in sugar cane – big farms, with much new machinery.

When the Ord Scheme was first developed, it was envisaged that the main crops would be rice and cotton. However, as happened at Humpty Doo in the NT, magpie geese took a massive liking to the young rice, passed the word around about this new food, and descended in great hordes, and that was the end of that idea! The cotton got some sort of grub. Since then, fruit growing – and to a lesser extent, vegetables – has become the mainstay, and sugar cane too, supplying a local sugar mill. The sugar growing industry is dependent on there being a nearby mill as the cut cane does not lend itself to transport over great distances. As we noted in Queensland, in 1998, in the sugar growing districts, there are lots of sugar mills and they are not that far apart.

It was a gravel road for most of the way to the Keep River ford. We crossed back into the NT to get there – no quarantine checks on the border there! No signs to mark the border there!

Once we got close to the river area, we passed several other vehicles – all seemed to be parked where they could fish, or be looking for same. Being a Sunday, they were probably out here from Kununurra. It was not a place that most tourists would think to venture.

Some men fishing near the ford told us there was a big saltie croc, upstream of the ford, and a smaller one hanging about downstream. We were actually not all that far from the sea, here, so their presence was not surprising.

The river ford was not a particularly attractive place, so we did not stay there long. Turned around, then took a side track to the north, to a tributary creek, and ate lunch there, looking at birds.

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Callistemon in the bush

While we were out there, John tried to radio phone friends from home, who had left us a message on the mobile, last week. They were travelling in these parts, having tacked some extra leave onto the school holidays.

We drove back the way we’d come. It was quite a decent day’s outing, with some really  spectacular range scenery along the way. We did 148kms.

Tea was chops, potato, tomato.

After tea, had some phone calls with family members.


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2000 Travels July 1

SATURDAY 1 JULY     KUNUNURRA

There was still some cloud about, today. Therefore, it became increasingly humid as the day wore on.

After breakfast, we walked to the shops and bought the papers, and had a bit of a browse in some of the shops.

After lunch, set out for a drive. We took the Ivanhoe Road, that goes past the caravan park, out to the Ivanhoe Crossing. This is where the main road, such as it was, once forded the Ord River – as that river was before the construction of the Ord River Scheme. In the 1950’s, a concrete causeway was built where there was an early ford and a rocky section of the river, as part of the construction of a road from the NT to the port at Wyndham.

The Ord River Scheme resulted in the construction of the Diversion Dam at Kununurra, in the 1960’s, and the main road was moved to cross the top of this.

Of course, back before the irrigation scheme began, the Ord would have been like the other big rivers in these parts – very seasonal in its flow – and the Crossing would have been very low for some of the year, and impassable for some of it.

These days, the river level here is regulated by the two upstream dams – and the release of water through the hydro plant at Lake Argyle. It is still subject to big floods in the Wet Season, but there are supposed to be times of the year when vehicles can cross on the ford.

Right now, the river was quite high – up into the carpark area. Water was racing over the ford. There was surely no way that anyone in their right mind would attempt to drive on it.

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The Ivanhoe Crossing ford was the large ripple crossing the centre of the photo!

There was a tour bus at the Crossing, and also some people, fishing. One can catch barramundi here. It is also a haunt of saltwater crocodiles. Not a place to go paddling!

From there, we drove back to town and across the top of the Diversion Dam to its far side, where there was a track going to the river, downstream of the dam, from where there was a view back to the dam. There was a sort of park here, with roofed picnic tables – flooded due to the river levels!

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Flooded picnic area below the Kununurra Diversion Dam

There was a lot of water coming out of the Diversion Dam. It really is a pity that some way cannot be found of diverting all this surplus water to the dry parts of the interior, and south.

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The Kununurra Diversion Dam with raised gates letting water out, down the Ord River. The gantry raises and lowers these gates. The highway crosses the top.

There were many people fishing along the river side, here. This was another place on the Ord where one needs to be crocodile aware.

It was quite late in the afternoon by now, so we did not stay long.

Tea was salads and tinned fish.

From today, most things will cost 10% more, although many foods are exempt. Supposedly, the whole convoluted range of State taxes are to be phased out, to be replaced by GST money. We shall see! I have little faith in State Governments doing their bit.

I do know that our accommodation rate rose. The nightly rate was $18, now it is $22, which is a lot more than a 10% rise. I suspect this sort of price hike, on the excuse of the GST,  will be common across lots of things. The cost of living just got costlier!


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2000 Travels June 30

FRIDAY 30 JUNE     KUNUNURRA

Woke to a day with some cloud about. We even wondered if it might rain, but it didn’t, and the cloud cleared a bit, later.

The Olympic Torch Relay was coming to town this morning, so we joined the throng going out to the airport, to see its brief stop there. The airport was the only place in town it would be.

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There were many small planes and helicopters bringing people in from outlying areas. There were quite a few small buses – mostly Coasters – from local aboriginal communities in the car park, too.

It seemed to us like rather laid-back event organizing, but it did all come together.

The local fruit and produce growers put on a display stand, complete with some agricultural machinery. We scored some free melons, afterwards! They took around some cut up melon for people to eat, too, in the lead-up to the Torch arrival. A nice touch.

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Display of produce and machinery by local producers

Premier Court of WA was there. There was a small media contingent, and AMP representatives – they were sponsors.

The Torch arrived by Air North commuter jet plane, from Darwin. There were several local Torch-bearers organized to carry it on a little procession, and they had escorts – guess that involved more people. One of the bearers was an old aboriginal lady, with very bad legs, in a wheelchair. A couple of the escorts were from Halls Creek.

Slingair flew in school children from all over the Kimberley – even from Kalumburu.

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People arriving by helicopter for the Olympic Torch Relay visit

We saw the Torch go by, amidst the crowd. Later, John touched the Torch holder that one of the escort runners had.

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The Olympic Torch

We watched the flame-carrying plane depart for its next whistle-stop, but few other people waited round, so the mass exodus happened before we left.

We went back to town, and put the wheel with the bad tyre in for changing – before the coming GST applies!

I put in two more films for processing. We had to do some banking. Refuelled Truck – 96cpl.

Went to the Tourist Information Centre, which is a modern, slick operation, here. Found out that the track to Mitchell Falls is open now. Bought the annual notes on the Gibb River Road and surrounds, produced by the Derby Tourist Bureau. A staff person phoned Mt House Station and found out for us that the Tablelands Track is too wet to use, at the moment. We remain hopeful that, by the time we are looking to go that way, it might be passable. That is the reason we plan to leave the van stored and take to the tent for our trip into those parts – would not be any hope of taking the van on the Tablelands Track.

I picked up my photos and was pleased with them.

I paid for another five nights at the caravan park. The price had risen – because it is July and the onset of GST – to $19.80 a night, after discount.

John went back to the tyre place and collected the wheel with the new tyre on it. The man there did not make any adverse comments about the suitability of our Dunlop tyres for these parts. Since he had what we needed in stock, there must be some demand for others for them, up here.

Tea was savoury mince and bread.

There was a lovely sunset. It was a bit cooler at night.

Today was the last day GST-free! The media was full of GST talk and speculation and dire predictions about its likely impacts.


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2000 Travels June 29

THURSDAY 29 JUNE   LAKE ARGYLE TO KUNUNURRA   76kms

This morning, John slept in, but we still managed to leave the Park by 10am.

We had an easy run to Kununurra, through magnificent, rugged, range country. There was some flood damage, and other places where road repairs were evident.

We booked into the Ivanhoe Village Caravan park, initially for two nights, but with the option to extend. Cost $16.20, after discount. This was an excellent park – we stayed here in ’93, but it is on the costly side.

It was good to be back in Kununurra – the place had a good “feel”. There was a buzz about it today because the Olympic Torch Relay was coming to town tomorrow – the first place in WA it would visit. It had already been in the NT and Qld.

After setting up, went to the shopping centre. Kununurra has the same layout concept as purpose built mining settlements in WA – a central core that is the service centre, with housing around that – and with the roads in a circular sort of pattern.

The shopping centre had changed since we were last there – more shops and even a Coles supermarket.

I put a film in for processing, at the Pharmacy.

At the Post Office, we collected the sapphires that had been sent from Rubyvale. The PO only charged us $21 in COD cost. It should have been $211, so we phoned Rubyvale and said we would send a cheque for the difference. The ten stones were not that little, after all, and  cut up well. There was a mix of colours and one substantial diamond-like zircon. We were both pleased at the quality and size of the parcel.

We bought lunch – a treat after the wilds! John had a sausage roll and a pie, I had a vegetable pasty.

We bought some spare parts for the lamp at a disposals type shop.

We went and looked in the Argyle diamond mine gallery – some wonderful stones and jewellery pieces, but oh, so expensive! Looking was all we could afford!

Drove out to the melon farm a few kms to the north, out the Ivanhoe road. Bought grapefruit and melons. It seems a much smaller operation than last time. There used to be a dairy out that way, too, but it had gone.

Back at the park, there was another Trakmaster van in – a larger Nullarbor. He told us he’d only had it since February, and he is heading off along the Gibb River Road.

Tea was steak, mushrooms, potato, tomato, followed by lovely fresh rock melon.

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