This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels May 25

MONDAY 25 MAY     TOWNSVILLE

John was up early to take Truck to the Landrover place, not long after it opened. I pottered about and read, trying not to think of what this might cost us! John came back with Truck much sooner than I had expected. It needed tropical weight oil in the gearbox, not the cold weather oil of down south! That was all. No charge, except for the oil. What a relief!

Now that we still have wheels, I phoned and made a doctor’s appointment for midday – she has the same name as me. I want to get checked out because I’ve been getting really tight feelings in the chest, over the past couple of months.

John commenced some bread making and left it to rise while we went to the nearby medical centre.

The doctor was very thorough. She thinks the upper chest discomfort and tightness  is muscular, associated with the larynx spasms I’ve had, periodically, since a thyroid operation in late 1996. I thought it might have been stress related, from becoming uncomfortable with towing, and John’s tension when doing so. She did an ECG to be on the safe side – it showed no irregularities at all. That also was a relief. She sent me on to a pathology centre to have blood taken for a check of the thyroid function, when she heard that I only have a half one. I will not get the results until Wednesday, so have to be here in Townsville until at least Thursday.

John was very gleeful that it was me having blood extracted, for once. The pathology person was more skilled than some I have encountered, and extracted the blood with no dramas.

Back at camp, he cooked the bread and we ate some for a late lunch. At Airlie Beach I’d been able to buy soy flour to use in it, as the recipe dictates. It was good.

Drove to the Botanic Gardens and did a short walk.

John wanted to call in at the Jubilee Bowls Club, where he was able to book in for a game tomorrow.

We drove out the Charters Towers road for a way, just to look, and saw a sign to Mt Stuart – 9kms. It was a narrow, sealed road, to the top of a mountain behind Townsville, with many TV and communications antennas and structures on it, and a nice Rotary Lookout. It was a similar view to last night’s at dusk, but a different perspective, and much higher. We could see a big dam out the back – the Ross River Dam. Looks like a huge body of water.

It was dark by the time we got down the bottom of the mountain. There was a steady stream of semis setting off along the road to the west.

The park office was still open, so I saw the lady about staying on. She said we could only stay on our site until Thursday morning, because it is booked after that. So that decided it – we are leaving here Thursday. I was a bit peeved – they are hardly full here – I thought she could have offered to juggle sites around, to keep us on. Just a hireling with little initiative, I guess.

John wanted bacon, eggs and bread for tea. I had some bacon and the spinach left from last night – a nice, light meal.

Tried to phone the offspring. Got K on the radphone, and started to instruct him to send mail to Mission Beach. I am expecting some share material that will need reply to a deadline. Lost the link, so phoned him on the public phone. Left message on V’s answering machine. R was constantly engaged.

Watched some TV. Went to bed about 9.30pm. It has been a day of good news!


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1998 Travels May 24

SUNDAY 24 MAY   AIRLIE BEACH TO TOWNSVILLE   285kms

All initially went well in the getting away process – until John had van and Truck just hitched up, but we still had to deal with the chains,  and the last minute things. So we were sticking out into the roadway – a non-through road for the sites further along from us. In a typical occurrence of Murphy’s Law, another rig was ready to go, and impatient. John went to back up for a metre or so, to get the right angle to pull van out. Truck would not go into reverse! He could not go forward as he was right up against a pole with a fire hose. Eventually, after much anxiety, he did get it into reverse, after engaging low range. It was a real hassle. We had to finish the pack up with the van parked some distance from our site, but at least pointing forwards! When tested again, there was still the problem with reverse.

We wondered  whether the gearbox has somehow been stuffed up with all the sand and salt, driving on Fraser Island. We were worrying, because this could be very costly. Also because we can’t stay here – will have to get the vehicle checked out by a Landrover dealer – it is still under warranty. But we were concerned that all the gears might go, whilst we are trying to get to somewhere with a dealer.

We took the back road from Cannon Valley, through Strathdickie, to the Bruce Highway, then on north. We did not drive into Bowen – the highway skirts the edge. Our Truck manual lists a dealer in Townsville, so that has become today’s goal.

The country we drove through today seemed drier than further south, with tall grassland between more widely spaced trees. It was mostly cattle country, interspersed with a few areas of sugar cane. The highway mostly ran parallel to inland ranges; occasionally we went through low gaps where there was higher ground on the coastal side, too.

Between Home Hill and Ayr, we crossed the really wide Burdekin River, on a high up silver steel bridge that looked like something from an old Meccano set. The metal framework extended over the top of the bridge, as well as up the sides. The bridge roadway is not all that wide, so there is not much room between passing vehicles. The bridge is over 1km long. There was a sugar mill just before the bridge, too.

We stopped for lunch at an excellent picnic area and rest stop on the outskirts of Ayr, making sure we did not need to reverse to get out again.

At Townsville, went into the Big 4 Walkabout Palms Caravan Park. It was the first park we came to, on our side of the highway, one where John could pull over, still facing forward, while I went in to see if they could take us. We paid $15.30 a night; they were fine about us not knowing how long we’d be staying. We were able to select our own site, too.

John decided we would attempt to reverse onto a nice, shaded, slabbed site. We could have driven straight through onto a grassed, not so nice one. I was told to try the reversing, on his instructions. I did get it into reverse, but it was not easy and I had to fiddle with High and Low Range to do it. I am wondering if that big clunk on Fraser is related to this? Anyway, we got the van onto our good site, and all set up.

The park office is in a big 24-hour roadhouse and we were given free coffee and biscuits – a nice touch. John indulged himself with a dim sim too.

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A worried 285 km drive today

We ventured out to go for a drive through the city, partly to locate the Landrover place where John will take Truck tomorrow. Townsville is so much bigger than I expected – 130,000 people! It is by far the biggest tropical city in Australia. I think I envisaged something like Mackay – certainly smaller than Darwin. So I am amazed. It is a sprawling place. There seems to be a lot of water lying about, and swamps. The Ross River flows through town – guess that is where the virus comes from? Certainly looks a happy place for mosquitoes!

Drove past the Landrover dealer – easy to find. Continued on to the sea front Strand, parked Truck, and walked along it. Part was footpath, part sand. We saw some very imaginative landscaping of a cliff face that backs onto part of the waterfront, with a man-made waterfall dropping some 20 metres into a fern grotto.

It was a very pleasant walk in the afternoon sea breeze. There were lots of tropical type smells. We walked past the Seabreeze Hotel where there was some sort of big and raucous event happening – it looked like some form of stripping and musical chairs!

There is much evidence of storm damage from earlier in the year. In January, while we were staying in Ballarat, the aftermath of a cyclone brought really heavy rain, over several days. Something like a metre of rain fell, parts of the city were under 3 metres of water and there was enormous damage. Great chunks of the sea wall and pavement area have been eroded and undermined.

There is a big marina at one end of the Strand.

Magnetic Island is just offshore – it looks big.

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Magnetic Island from the Strand at Townsville

Just before sunset, we drove up Castle Hill. This is a big, rocky monolith, some 286 metres high, that juts out of the surrounding flat ground. Townsville city splits around and surrounds it. Castle Hill is a real landmark for Townsville. A steep and winding sealed road goes up it. There were lots of people walking or running up and down its several kms length. The view from the top was excellent, and lovely as the lights started to come on, and there were some sunset colours.

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Sunset from Castle Hill – looking over Rowes Bay

Back at the van, tea was fries, mushrooms, steak, spinach. There was some of the latter left over – I must try to find a recipe for leftover spinach! Suppose I could freeze it.


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1998 Travels May 23

SATURDAY 23 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

We had a fairly quiet, puddling about kind of day. I did mention going for a drive, but couldn’t come up with a must-do destination, given that neither of us was really keen on a big expedition.

We drove to the morning markets on the Esplanade and bought some fresh produce, direct from the farmers: oranges, mandarins, grapefruit, limes, spinach, capsicums, cucumbers, bananas, rock melon. All were cheaper by far than in the shops and obviously very fresh. $15 worth. We will have to get into the habit of looking out for markets like this. Nothing else there was really attractive to older travellers like us.

Got diesel – 72cpl. It is creeping up!

After lunch, we packed up the awning, loaded up the roof rack with the tables and chairs.

I read the Saturday paper for a while. John watched TV.

Tea was more of the pumpkin soup, left over dips, corn chips, salad. I do not think the pumpkin was a very good one for soup making – it seems to have little taste.


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1998 Travels May 22

FRIDAY 22 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

John bowled all day in the Masters Triples Tournament here.

I did the washing and cleaned the van inside. Then read and sewed.

I walked to the Bowls Club with his lunch and ended up sitting in Truck for an hour, waiting for him to come and get it. It was very hot. His morning went well – won both games. He was really thrilled at that stage, by how well he was playing.

I took Truck and went and did a grocery shop, for a week. I had to get an “advance” on next week’s housekeeping – it has been a costly couple of weeks.

I drove and collected John from bowls at 5pm.  He was even more thrilled, because he’d won the Silver Medal! I took photos and we hung the medal in the van. He has paid for a photo of the team that was taken at the club and must ring the man involved in a couple of weeks about sending it on.

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John with the Silver Medal won for coming second in the Masters’ Triples

John wants to stay here an extra day – he is not ready to come down to earth yet and do the packing up. So I went to the Office and extended our booking. Was fairly confident it would be alright, as there are quite a few vacant sites here, at any one time.

Tea was bought fish and chips.

Sometime today, somehow,  I have gotten more sandfly bites!


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1998 Travels May 21

THURSDAY 21 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

Today is S’s birthday. The dates kind of got away from John, so we went to the PO and sent off a late card and a cheque. Our mail was there from home and it did contain our Mastercards.

John collected his copies of his father’s war records.

I had another swim in the pool before lunch – mostly, I am the only one in there!

After lunch, we drove towards Shute Harbour and then left Truck in the car park at the start of the Mt Rooper walking track circuit. The track was not too steep, and it was pleasant walking through forests, most of the time. There were great views over the Whitsundays from the top. At the summit, we chatted to a couple of young travellers for a little while; apart from them, there was no one else on the track. John managed the walk well.

On the way back to camp, heard on the radio that a young backpacker was killed this morning, on Fraser Island, in a head-on collision between 4WD’s on the east beach, near the Maheno wreck. It is hard for us to see how it could happen, as the beach is so open, but accidents are fairly common, it seems. Maybe drivers are distracted by the sights. Some European drivers find it hard to stay on the correct side. Some fishing people park their vehicles down close to the water’s edge and this can create a traffic hazard and obscure vision. The backpackers often are not wearing seatbelts.

For tea, I made pumpkin soup and we had bread as well, with guacamole and tzatsiki.


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1998 Travels May 20

WEDNESDAY 20 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

In the morning, John drove into town to arrange the photocopying of some of the WW1 material relating to his father – to send to various family members.

I had a great swim in the pool – love it. We heard a news item the other day that a tourist swimming in the sea at South Molle Island got stingered and had to be air lifted out. No stingers in pools!

In the afternoon, John bowled.

I cycled to the town centre shops, and went for a browse. Bought a caravan magazine that looked to have some interesting destinations featured. Was tempted by some sandals, but resisted buying them. I rode almost 7kms.

We are regularly visited in camp by scrub turkeys, as well as the prowling goannas and a green tree snake. The wild life is not so wild, around here. In fact, it tends towards being rather too familiar! There are also plenty of green ants around. We have seen a pair of sunbirds too – lovely.

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Don’t mind me – just passing through

Tea was left over frankfurts for John, and a tin of tuna for me, with salads.


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1998 Travels May 19

TUESDAY 19 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

Today was one of driving and exploring some of the Airlie hinterland.

We followed farming country back roads, to the west, almost to the Bruce Highway, then took the Dingo Beach road – unsealed for some of the way – and then the road to Hideaway Bay. The name made it sound like a place worth investigating! On some maps it is written as Hydeaway.

Hideaway Bay is aptly named. A few houses, a caravan park, the only shop is the kiosk at the caravan park. We wanted to see what the park was like, and got talking to the owner. Discovered that he is “Tassie” Sherriff, who for a while in the early 1960’s, boarded across the road from where we lived. We had morning tea with him and his wife.

The beach at Hideaway Bay is nicer than that at Airlie – the latter is more gritty and has more mangrove mud on it. We might bring the van out here for an out-of-the-way stay, sometime.

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A coastal view from Hideaway Bay

The road ends a bit further on, up on a bluff behind the houses; there is a padlocked gate and a sign saying  “Private – 4WD only”. My map shows a place called Monte’s Resort at the end of the road, but they obviously do not encourage access by the general public!

Drove back around from Hideaway Bay, and about 5kms distant, we found Dingo Beach, another little coastal village. This has a hotel which doubles (not very successfully) as a shop, as well.

Went for a walk and a bird hunt on a very pretty beach here and ate our lunch, sitting overlooking the bay and islands, near and far. There were a lot of sea birds about, but they were moving too much for easy identification.

Back near the hotel, got talking to a couple of men. One – G – approached us because he wanted to know about the Defender. The other, old,  man had one of those dogs that was constantly looking for us to throw a stick for it. Turned out that G works at Monte’s and he invited us to go out there and have a look around at what he says is “paradise”. So we followed his vehicle, through the locked gate at the end of the road. It really did need 4WD too – over the 5kms, there were some steep and rocky slopes and some creek crossings. One creek was named with a home-made sign saying “Murrells Creek”. We found out later that, a couple of years ago, it was raining heavily and a wall of water came down that creek and picked up the Landcruiser that our new friend is now driving, and carried it 20 metres downstream. Murrell was driving, and nearly drowned.

There is a resort at the end of the track! Right on the beachfront. It has amazing views to nearby Gloucester Island and to others further away. The place was set up by Monte, who is now dead. It is geared mostly to sailing people, who tie up out front and come and spend time on land, at the licensed resort.

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The beach in front of Monte’s Reef Resort, and distant islands

As well as the resort, there are several privately owned blocks of land, some with houses, scattered in the bush. Their freehold title goes right to the sea and they all share rights over common land. It is a very exclusive patch – you can buy a vacant block for about $200,000!

Our new-found friend is the caretaker of one of the houses; the owner has a big business down south and spends a few weeks here, each year. Nice for some!

We bought a couple of rounds of drinks at the Monte’s bar – felt we had to repay G’s hospitality. Three beers cost $10!  We were able to have a wander and a look round – it certainly is away from the hordes, and quite idyllic – at least, at this time of the year. But you obviously need to be a “boatie” to access and enjoy the resort.

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John with some very expensive beer

Then, it was a long drive back to camp. G had left the gate padlock undone – we had to fasten it after we’d gone back through. It was dark towards the end of the trip back. We met a number of cows on the unfenced roads, so it was not a fast trip.

We drove 161kms today.

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Where we went today

Tea was frankfurts and mashed potato.

I phoned K about the mail – he is sending it express.


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1998 Travels May 18

MONDAY 18 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

When I was making breakfast, discovered that John had forgotten to turn the fridge back on, last night. We’d had a defrost! That means we must have the remaining fish for tea, as they are unfrozen. This fridge/TV thing could lead to considerable domestic disharmony!

We drove to the shops. There was mail from S at the PO, containing a lot more WW1 records and information, for John. His tablets from the Cooroy chemist were also there. But there was not the expected mail from home.

I went to a chemist, who gave me anti-histamine tablets to lessen the sandfly reaction, and some Vitamin B1 which, in theory, will make me less attractive to mosquitoes. That chemist must do a roaring trade in sandfly antidotes!

We did a grocery shop, the cost of which looked like we bought a lot more than we did!

After lunch,  cycled out to Mandalay Point, which forms the eastern side of Airlie Bay. It was mostly through bushland, but also past some expensive-looking homes with great views over the bay. It was an 11km ride, with a couple of vicious little hills.

Drove back to Shute Harbour to see if we could catch another brilliant sunset – I wanted to try to photo same – but it poured rain instead!

I cooked the dart fish in foil parcels and served them with some beans.

Phoned K, to check mail situation. He has forgotten to send it! I told him that we really need the new Mastercards  we are expecting will be in there, so he has to investigate Express Mail. I will phone him tomorrow.


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1998 Travels May 17

SUNDAY 17 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

In the morning, discovered that, despite applying Rid yesterday afternoon, we had both been affected by sandfly bites – big time! Our legs and arms are coming up in the usual red, itchy lumps and little blisters. Obviously, the sandflies are really bad here and made worse by the recent rains. Funny how the tourist propaganda never mentions sandflies!

We drove to the bowls club, so John could check out events. He booked us both in for a game this afternoon. He has discovered that there is a Masters’ Bowls event happening here, later in the week, and wants to be in that. Our Airlie stay will be longer than first thought.

Then went on to the shops. Most of them were closed, which slightly surprised us, in this tourist centre. Went for a walk on the Esplanade, behind the beach. It was very quiet – the back packers must all be sleeping off last night.

The view across the bay was beautiful – the sky and the sea were both silver-grey, with no visible horizon division between them. The islands and yachts seemed to be floating on nothing.

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The boats appear to be floating on air!

After lunch, went to bowls. We played in a fours event. It was alright, I guess. The locals at the club were really friendly. Most that we spoke with had been here about ten years, and considered that the place has developed a lot since then! We think it is still rather an undeveloped place,  compared to Noosa, or Hervey Bay. We did not meet anyone who had been born and bred locally.

The sandflies homed in again about 4pm. We were on the lookout for them, this time, and slathered on heaps of Rid, and put on clothes that covered the legs and arms, as soon as we got back to the van.

Tea was bread and cheese with a Greek salad.

John found that turning off the fridge improved the TV reception – a little. This is not something I really approve of, but the damned TV must take priority!

The sandfly bites made for a restless, uncomfortable night.


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1998 Travels May 16

SATURDAY 16 MAY   MACKAY TO AIRLIE BEACH   192kms

Today’s drive was predominantly through sugar cane country. There were forested ranges to the west that provided a backdrop to the farming country. In places, low wooded hills appeared on the other side of the highway, too.

We stopped at Proserpine for fuel – 69cpl. Just north of that town, turned off the highway and took the road to Airlie Beach. I had read some material about Airlie that suggested it would be a pleasant place to stay, to get some idea of what the Whitsunday region is like.

There is a whole string of islands off the coast, between Mackay and Bowen, loosely called the Whitsunday Islands. The name comes from one of the largest islands that Captain Cook so named, because he thought he found it on Whit Sunday. The region is known for its aqua seas, white sand beaches, sheltered sailing, and is a popular place on the backpacking circuit.

Driving into Airlie is spectacular. We came through a farming valley, up an ordinary looking hill, then, at the crest, the incredible view suddenly appeared. Right in front was this brilliant bay, with lots of yachts floating at anchor, heaps of islands dotted about, and jungle green headlands. It is unexpected and beautiful. We were told later that locals always slow down at that point, if driving behind tourists, because they know the exact point ahead at which the brake lights will come on, as the tourists automatically slow down and go “wow” – as we did.

The many islands are steep sided and jungle-y  green.

We drove through the town – actually more like a village – to the Big 4 Airlie Cove Caravan Park. Our site here cost $16.20 a night, after club discount but they have no weekly rate or concessions. It was a very attractive park, with heavy tropical growth all round. It is the first place we have stayed that really felt tropical. We were able to walk around and choose our site. We rejected two that had large, fat, goannas asleep on their cement slabs – no point in making life hard for ourselves! Chose a site that had a lot of shrubbery and trees around, and an annexe slab. Discovered later that the trees were home to possums that thought our roof was a great new night time jumping game venue.

The park has a wonderfully attractive swimming pool – large and irregularly shaped, with a spa area to one side open to the pool itself. It looks very inviting.

The whole atmosphere here is very verdant, lush, tropical, full blown. I love it.

After set up, which included putting up the awning roof – outdoor living will be most pleasant here – we drove on to the end of the road, at Shute Harbour, which has a large marina with an obscenely large amount of dollars anchored in it! This is a major departure point for the Whitsunday Islands – day trips, reef cruises, fishing charters.

We drove up onto the headland above the marina and saw homes there that have views that must rank with the best in the world! The sunset on the sea below was bright purple.

It was dark when we drove back to Airlie Beach to get fish and chips for tea.

There is a vibrant atmosphere along the beach front strip that is the centre of town. It features many backpacker accommodation places and some lower key resort and unit structures, but does seem mostly geared to the younger generation – a contrast to Noosa. There are many cheap eateries and shops selling sarongs and T shirts. The place was busy, being a Saturday night. There was that peculiarly tropical smell of warm air, scented flowers, char-grilling food – it reminded me of Darwin.

John found that all the steep hills around us are barriers to good TV reception.

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