This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2011 Travels July 27

WEDNESDAY 27 JULY     BEACHPORT

The day was fine but even colder. When I took Couey out for her first walk in the morning, there was ice on the boardwalk! The wind continued to be freezing.

Site with a view

After breakfast, John took dog walking through the canal and lake scrub tracks. She managed to find some animal’s manure to roll in. Did a thorough job – both sides. I hoped she’d enjoyed the freedom roll, because she certainly didn’t enjoy the cold hosing down she got, back at camp! Then, John played ball retrieving games with her for a while, to speed up the drying out process. I walked her around the streets, on the lead, to do my part for the dog drying.

John found the coolant level in Truck was down, so went off down the street to get some more. Whilst there, he felt the urge to visit the bakery and came back with a pastie for his lunch, and a Boston bun.

It was a bit of a concern that Truck coolant level was down. We hadn’t exactly been driving in hot weather! Having spent about $15,000 in the past couple of years, having the vehicle thoroughly repaired, things should be working perfectly.

After lunch we went for a drive, back out along the Scenic Drive.

I took some photos.

From the end of the Scenic Drive, John decided to venture along a 4WD track off into the dunes. It was loose and sandy and I was not happy. Just not in a mood to put up with getting bogged, like he had managed to do on some previous forays into sand. So, he soon turned round and we went back to camp.

Tea was Mongolian lamb and rice.

Our week here was up, tomorrow, and we decided to move on. Thought we’d head NE from here, up through Lucindale to Naracoorte. I’d be able to show John where I taught for a year. We would pass the little shearer’s cottage, out on the Conmurra road, where I’d lived – in somewhat primitive conditions: generator power and tank water. When the generator ran out of petrol at about 9.30 at night, it was bedtime. A weekly chore was to try to dig a hole to bury the contents of the toilet bucket – and the cottage was on a low limestone ridge with little soil! The conditions that teachers put up with in those days…….


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2011 Travels July 26

TUESDAY 26 JULY     BEACHPORT

Another mostly fine but bloody cold day – a really chilly wind blew all day.

We’d fallen into the habit of doing the same walk every morning now, with dog – path, canal, bush.

Beachport Lake

 Given the weather, we were not motivated to do much today. John spent most of the time on his laptop, playing games, I read and did some crochet of an afghan rug I was making for grand daughter.

Stirred myself to make some flatbreads to have for lunch, with a nice warm soup – from tin!

Typical of the older limestone buildings in town

Our most direct route to the amenity block involved going down the grassed slope from the upper terraced level our van was on. We were both noticing that John was having difficulty walking back up the slope again. Just the short uphill part – maybe ten steps – was leaving him breathless. Today, he actually had to stop for a breather half way up. Very concerning. He reckoned it was just due to the cold air affecting his breathing. Hmmm…..

I crumbed some fish for tea. From the freezebox, not caught by us – John had not been motivated to unpack the fishing gear, here.


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2011 Travels July 25

MONDAY 25 JULY     BEACHPORT

Today was mostly fine, but with predominantly grey skies, and it was cold.

The dog’s morning walk was along the path, over the canal and around some of the bush tracks in the canal and lake area. Once she was off the lead it was impossible to stop her from cavorting in the large puddles formed in wheel ruts on the tracks.

We drove to Robe, almost 50kms away. The road went inland, to skirt the eastern sides of several large lakes formed behind the coastal dunes. The retreating coastlines and resulting parallel dune systems have meant there is no normal drainage systems across such of the South East of SA. Instead, lots of man made drains were dug, over time, to drain the swamps and improve the country for grazing and farming. One of these was Drain L – no fancy names here – that we crossed a couple of times on the outskirts of Robe.

Drain L near Robe

Like Beachport, Robe is an historic settlement, dating from the 1840’s. Lots of old stone buildings to see, as we cruised around the streets. On a warmer day, it would have been pleasant to walk around, looking more closely at some of these.

We parked near the Obelisk and did venture out of Truck to wander around this area.

Robe coast

The Obelisk was a stone tower, built on Cape Dombey, to help ships navigate in Guichen Bay, where Robe is, in 1855. It was eventually painted with red stripes, to help it stand out from the land background.

Robe Obelisk being undercut by coastal erosion

Given the extent of coastal erosion we could see, it looked like the Obelisk would not last another hundred plus years, without being totally undermined.

A precarious situation..
More modern aid to navigation in Guichen Bay

Back in the town, we parked and went walking, with dog, and found a bakery, where John was able to indulge in a pie, and me in a very nice salad roll. Dog got nothing except a drink of water; only two meals a day for her and very strictly no “people food”. Except for when she manages to scavenge something like a dropped scrap of pie crust!

We made a point of driving past the main caravan parks and checking them out. Still hadn’t decided on our next move. Decided that. although Robe was a larger centre than Beachport, we were happy there, and saw no reason to make Robe our next destination. Unless the weather improved radically, the day trip was sufficient.

Rain clouds and sunshine over Guichen Bay

My map showed a dirt track from Robe along the coast to the hamlet of Nora Creina, which I had never been to, and a loop back to the sealed road. From the time, in 1968 when I lived in the South East, I had wondered who Nora was, but eventually discovered that the Nora Creina was a ship wrecked in the area. I found the name rather romantic and would have liked to see the place, but John was not feeling adventurous and just wanted to go back the known way.

We did, however, make a short detour to look at the Woakwine Cutting – essentially a very large ditch. Another drainage line, this cutting was carved, using a large tractor, for a km through a big sand dune range. Part of it is over 28 metres deep. A very big ditch!

I made a lemongrass pork stir fry for tea, with rice.


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2011 Travels July 24

SUNDAY 24 JULY     BEACHPORT

Another damp day, but there were some  breaks between rainy periods. It was rather cold.

We managed to get in a reasonable dog walk along the bay path to the channel and back to the shops and around to the park – a big circuit. Even John was not prepared to take dog over into the scrub – and puddles – area.

After lunch, went driving again. This time, we skirted Rivoli Bay to the south, around to the hamlet of Southend, on the other side of the bay.

I’d not been there before. My tourist information mentioned a couple of caravan parks and I was curious to see if it was a possible next place to stay. In short, no.

Southend was very much a village of holiday houses and not many permanent dwellers. Beachport was like a metropolis by comparison – and infinitely more attractive. We stopped briefly at a couple of vantage points looking across the bay and township.

Rivoli Bay at Southend

There was a curved jetty, with a set of tracks on it for transporting gear and catches more easily from shore to boats. Again, a crayfishing place, in the season, with a small processing building near the jetty.

We concluded that Beachport was definitely the better end of Rivoli Bay at which to stay.

John had baked beans on toast for tea; I had some salad.

Southend from the other side of Rivoli Bay


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2011 Travels July 23

SATURDAY 23 JULY     BEACHPORT

I did jinx us. It rained for most of the day and was a rather unpleasant one. The dog’s morning exercise was a fast walk to the shops and back. Spent the rest of the morning in the van, tucked away from the bad weather.

Prime place in front of the heater

After lunch, the rain was not as heavy or constant, so we went for a slow drive along the Scenic Drive again, stopping in a couple of places to walk for a better view, and to take photos.

Limestone Coast – makes for interesting coastal erosion

But there was little temptation to spend long out of the warmth of Truck.

I made us hamburgers for tea.