This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels June 16

TUESDAY 16 JUNE     CAIRNS

Had to get up much earlier than is usual for us, this morning, because Truck was due at the Landrover dealer for a service, at 8am. That left us with walking as our transport option! And with a whole day to fill in.

We walked around much of the city, browsing shops. Wandered about the new Pier Complex.

Collected our mail from the PO – just more to carry around in my day pack. John finally posted off his father’s  war material to daughter and brother – $8.90 for postage.

Shouted ourselves to morning tea/coffee. I put a film in for printing and collected it later.

Put our scripts into a chemist. Our doctor at home had given us Reg 24 scripts, so we could get multiple refills at once – essential when we are going where there are no chemists. We had just been using up our normal scripts until now, a month’s at a time.

John really wanted a cinema fix. The best he could find to watch was US Marshalls! Because of the start time, and our late decision making, there was no time for lunch. About the best I could say of the film was that it provided a place to sit down. Waste of $12!

After the film we walked back to Trinity Motors to collect Truck. The Truck work cost $700. We are realizing that no work done on a Landrover is ever cheap.

Tea was leftover stir fry from two nights ago. It was a long time since breakfast, which had been light and rushed.

I’ve had better days.


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1998 Travels June 15

MONDAY 15 JUNE     CAIRNS

John is feeling really miserable with the cold. I can relate to that.

I did a couple of loads of washing, whilst he decided whether he was getting up at all today. Eventually he managed to.

We drove into Cairns city, firstly to check at the PO for our mail – which was not there yet. Went to a couple of other shops.

Went to the seafood co-op that M had directed us to, and bought prawns. Good value.

I checked out a craft supply shop I’d seen advertised – wonderful place, with a good supply of the sort of fabric I use, and also books on Hardanger. When we come back from the Cape, I will be coming back here!

After a late lunch, we drove to the Royal Flying Doctor Base at Aeroglen, which is where Cairns airport is. The displays there, about the work of the RFDS, were really interesting. We watched an excellent video. It performs such an essential service over so much of our remote areas. We donated $10 to the cause.

Went on to the School of the Air, to try to get some information about the VISE scheme. They were not very helpful at all. About the best they could do was give us a phone number for a contact at Einasleigh, which is a tiny place inland from here; that does not seem likely to be much help. We will shelve that idea for a while, anyway.

Had prawns and avocado for tea. I’d bought cooked prawns, so all I had to do was peel them – might sound simple, but takes me ages and it is such a messy job. But the eating makes it worthwhile.

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Our travels around Cairns


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1998 Travels June 14

SUNDAY 14 JUNE     CAIRNS

Today was another drive and explore day, this time to some of the beaches north of the city, along the Cook Highway. It was a warm, sunny day, ideal beach weather.

We had a quick look around Trinity Beach and Palm Cove, which seem to almost be outlying suburbs of Cairns.

Ellis Beach was of interest because there was a caravan park there, right by the beach, but the park seemed very crowded and it was also right by the highway.

The Cook Highway hugs the coast and passes a series of very attractive beaches and coves, separated by rocky outcrops and headlands, large and small. The scenery makes it a wonderful road to drive. Despite the fact that we have come north up much of the Australian east coast, there has been nowhere that the road has been right by the sea, like this.

We drove as far north as Wangetti Beach, about 40kms from Cairns. This was just so beautiful that we stopped to walk on the beach – and didn’t get to go any further. We walked along the beach for a time, then John decided to try fishing. I was happy just to sit and soak in the scenery. It is a taste of things to come, we hope, when we leave Cairns. Had our picnic lunch on the beach. Didn’t catch any fish.

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Wangetti Beach and the panorama to the south

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Wangetti Beach, looking northwards

John is coming down with the cold, and was not all that keen on doing much driving. We will come this way again in a few days, anyway.

We headed back to Cairns in the mid afternoon – before any bities may have come in.

Tea was a stir fry, done in the electric frypan, mostly hokkien noodles, beef and some vegies.


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1998 Travels June 13

SATURDAY 13 JUNE     CAIRNS

John was felling better today and I am back to normal.

Drove to shops and bought the paper, some groceries and rolls.

At the book exchange, I returned some, got some more, and spent $17.

Read the paper, had an early lunch, then we went to bowls at Stratford. We played in different teams today. Just an average day. The people here are very nice, and friendly.

The cost of bowls mounts up. Apart from the fee to play each time, today we outlaid $2 on the raffle – there is always a raffle, and one feels obligated to buy tickets. The drinks one must buy for the opposing player cost us another $5.

Again, the sandflies came in, about 3pm. This time, I was prepared and had coated myself with Rid.

Tea was cheese and ham omelette and fries.


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1998 Travels June 12

FRIDAY 12 JUNE       CAIRNS

I got up this morning hoping that my stomach will stay settled all day and not spoil the tour! What lousy timing.

We had to be out the front of the caravan park at 8.30, to be collected by the bus that would take us to the Skyrail “base” at Caravonica. Skyrail is a type of cable car operation, where small cabins are suspended from cables that go up the range to Kuranda – over the top of the rainforest. It was only built three years ago, but has already won some awards. It is the longest gondola cable way in the world, at 7.5kms.

I wanted to have this experience, but at the same time, given my aversion to heights, was rather apprehensive. We booked to go up to Kuranda on the Skyrail cableway, and back on the little old train that snakes down the range. The Kuranda Markets operate on Fridays, so we will also have time to browse those. The entire package cost us $128, for the two of us.

The Kuranda Railway was opened in 1891, so it is over 100 years old. It is about 30kms from Kuranda down to Freshwater Connection, where our journey will end. The train can’t go in a straight line, like the cable way! The Railway was quite an engineering feat when it was built, given the terrain. There are fifteen tunnels, lots of bridges long and short, as it winds around the face of the range.

The cable car carriages are fairly small, so one is not in with a heap of people. There are two “stations” and the idea is that one can get off at each, explore what is there, and then get back on the next car – they come at about 20 minute intervals.

Going up, we looked back down over the Barron River, the farmed plains, suburbs, and over the sea.

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Going up! Caravonica depot below, by lake. Another cable car visible below.

The views were awesome. The first part seemed a really steep gradient, and we were not all that far above the canopy of the trees. We got off at Red Peak, where there is a little walkway that goes over the rainforest, and then again at Barron Falls, which is similar but with lots of information provided too. Obviously, we could see the Barron Falls from this stop.

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The Barron Falls, seen from the Skyrail stop

A bit earlier, we had seen the railway train, across the Gorge, snaking its way uphill.

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The Kuranda train across the other side of the gorge

The Barron Falls drop a long way, but there was not a great deal of water coming over them.

The Barron River is dammed at the top, for a hydro electricity generating plant, and that affects the flow. But it would be really spectacular to see the Falls in a big Wet season.

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The Barron River Gorge, seen from Skyrail

It took us 75 minutes to get to Kuranda.

Once there, we walked around and went to the Markets. I found these rather predictable, to the point of being boring. There was much New Age, hippie stuff. Actually, the same could be said of Kuranda as a whole! It did not live up to what I was expecting, as so much is made of the place as a “must have” experience.

We did buy K’s birthday present – for next year! A special fishing vest with lots of pockets. It was on sale, reduced from over $100 to $39. Apart from that, I bought postcards, some Tic-tac mints; we had a can of Coke and an ice cream each. As the day progressed I felt much better, though I didn’t want lunch. John was starting to feel off-colour too.

We walked to the very picturesque railway station, to catch the 2pm train. The station has beautiful gardens.

The train carriages are old style, like the originals – lots of polished wood and red leather seats. The seats are in facing pairs.

The train was no speed machine. It was pitch black through some of the longer tunnels. Much of the time, because of curves, we could see part of the train ahead of us, or behind. It actually felt rather precarious at times – narrow little railway, deep gorge below us! We stopped part way down the mountain, to view the Falls.

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The train stopped so we could get out and view the Falls

It was a good combination, to go up by the cable car and down by the train – different views from each and a different pace. One so modern and the other a step back in time.

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Barron Falls, seen at the train stop – late afternoon shadow

It took two hours to go down by train. We got off at Freshwater Connection, rather than go all the way into Cairns city. However, our bus transport driver decided to drop some other travellers off in the city, first, so we had a very round-about way back to the caravan park. It was dark by the time we got back, so it had been a long and full day.

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The straight route of Skyrail in red; the train route in pink

I think that, for new visitors to Cairns, I would list this at the top as a “must do”.

I was really pleased that my stomach had behaved all day, but John did not feel well. However, he thought he’d like me to make some fried rice for tea. It was quite late by the time that was done.


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1998 Travels June 11

THURSDAY 11 JUNE    CAIRNS

I am feeling a little better today, so we decided to have a big day out.

We drove south on the highway to Gordonvale. The highway goes through a kind of pass in the ranges, between the quite high hills of the coastal range, and the mountains of the Great Divide. Queensland’s highest peak – Mt Bartle Frere, is just south of here, and there are a number of others nearly as big, in the area. So it is a really beautiful area.

At Gordonvale, took the Gillies Highway up the Range, to the Atherton Tableland. It climbed steadily; apart from a couple of relatively short sections that were really twisty, it was a good road to drive. The face of the range was forest, but then we came out into fertile farmlands. The Atherton Tablelands is lush and green – a bit like a tropical Gippsland!

Passed Lake Barrine and went on to Lake Eacham, where we stopped to have a look at it. These lakes were caused by volcanic activity and are very deep – over 60 metres. I did not feel up to walking much at either.

Went on to Yungaburra and Lake Tinaroo, which is huge. We were keeping an eye out for possible places to stay in the future. Caravan parks at Lake Tinaroo and Yungaburra both looked alright.

Had our lunch at Lake Tinaroo, where there were hundreds, if not thousands, of ducks. We spent some time spotting, and identified Plumed Whistling Duck, Wandering Whistle Duck, Northern Shoveller. All the whistling ducks by the hundreds made a loud and unusual noise – it was constant.

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A few of the many whistling ducks at Lake Tinaroo

Continued on through Atherton and on to Mareeba. At a farm gate stall, bought some avocadoes and 3kg of macadamia nuts – still in their shells.

Clearly, there is lots to see and do up there on the Tablelands, so it will be worth a future stay. But it is too far to do many day trips up here from Cairns!

From Mareeba, headed east again, on the Kennedy Highway – there’s Kennedy again! From Kuranda, it was back down the range again – steep, narrow, bendy, but not for too long. When  we are taking the van up or down the range, in the future, will have to choose between steady but long ascent (Gordonvale way) or short and sharp (Kuranda way).

On the way back, we booked the tour we plan for tomorrow, and quickly got things for tea. John wanted frankfurts, which I served up in bread rolls. I did not think mine tasted at all good, but John enjoys that sort of thing.

During the night, I had a major stomach upset – probably from the awful dinner, though John was alright. The cold may have affected my system, too.

Today’s drive covered 220kms.


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1998 Travels June 10

WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE     CAIRNS

I am still feeling miserable. I do not get many colds, but when I do, they take a heavy toll.

After an early lunch, John went to bowls. He enjoyed the afternoon, but with moderate results only.

I cleaned the van and then read. I have found a reasonable book exchange not far from here and had a stock up on the way back yesterday.

The ducks come visiting regularly, for company, and the shade of this site is pleasant in what is now real heat.

I took some trouble over tea: salmon with a Chinese ginger marinade, with fries.


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1998 Travels June 9

TUESDAY 9 JUNE    CAIRNS

We had a fairly slow start to the day, due to me still feeling poorly.

Drove into central Cairns again, because I wanted to put a film in for processing, and had seen the right sort of shop at the Central complex. I found a shop that sold detailed maps and looked at these. Then just browsed while we waited for photos to be done.

Actually, now that we are here in Cairns, I think it was a mistake to book for two weeks. I envisaged Cairns as having lots to occupy tourists, but if you are not into spending big dollars and doing lots of reef, island, and diving cruises, or experiencing backpacker oriented night life, there is not all that much to do. We will have to eke out what there is. At the moment, with this cold, I don’t feel like doing too much, anyway.

We had a fish and chip lunch at Cairns Central – $16! Too much money for what we got.

Bought diesel – 66 cpl.

Back at camp, read and did some embroidery. John did computer things.

Tea was soup from a tin, bread and cheese.

Phoned V caught her on the mobile just as they were navigating through Perth in really heavy rain, to B’s relatives’ place. They left Adelaide on 6th and had stops at Poochera, the border and Kalgoorlie. So they did not exactly take their time to see the sights! Pity. I remember the Nullarbor as quite interesting. The fairly brief call gobbled up $2.80, which was all the change I had with me.


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1998 Travels June 8

MONDAY 8 JUNE     CAIRNS

Well, the mystery of the sore throat is solved – I have a heavy cold. Much sneezing and sniffling through the day, and generally feeling miserable.

I did the washing – two loads.

We drove back into the centre part of town, and explored some more, just seeing what is around, and looking to see if there is any other Information Centre that might try to be helpful to travellers like us. Did not find such a creature.

We had a good browse amongst the shops of Cairns Central complex. It is quite a while since we were in an area of large shops. Bought a couple of coffees – an indulgence for $5.20! Then, later, John really wanted a Chinese food lunch from a shop at the food gallery – so we spent $13.80 on that. This ranks as a big day out for us!

Went back to camp in good time to get my washing from the line, then didn’t do much else for the rest of the day, except feel out of sorts.

Tea was light – salad, bread cheeses – the sort of meal we really like, anyway.


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1998 Travels June 7

SUNDAY 7 JUNE     CAIRNS

This morning, decided to take ourselves up to Lake Morris, for a picnic lunch.

The Lake Morris Road was a very scenic 16km drive, up a narrow, winding, steep road, with some awesome drops to the side. My side! At several points there were excellent views over much of Cairns and around to Mt Bartle Frere. From up there, it is very obvious how the original and main parts of Cairns are built on the relatively narrow coastal plain between the mountains and the sea.

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Cairns, from the Lake Morris road. The CBD is in the distance, marked by a couple of taller buildings

Lake Morris, also called Copperlode Falls Dam, is the main water supply for Cairns. Freshwater Creek, which flows behind our site in the caravan park, is the outlet creek from the dam.

The picnic area was very pleasant. We wandered about for a while, enjoying the outlook over the lake. Encountered H and M, who were also sightseeing. Had our lunch, then returned to camp.

I prepared our meal for tonight: steak, mushrooms, potatoes baked in foil, pineapple salad. A fruit and cheese platter was dessert. We ate outside the van – have to, as there is no room for more than two inside. Used Rid copiously. I burned mosquito coils too.

We all had a very pleasant and relaxed evening, with no shortage of things to talk about. I think this is one couple we could possibly travel with, on some future trip.