This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2007 Travels June 9

SATURDAY 9 JUNE   DUNMARRA R/H TO SULLIVAN CREEK CAMP   426kms

We left the bitumen at Dunmarra and drove west to Top Springs – some 180kms on a reasonable gravel road. In 2000, we’d camped here but it seemed the Roadhouse at Top Springs now no longer offered camping. The area we’d stayed in was fenced off.

Refuelled – $1.75cpl. Treated ourselves to cold drinks and ice creams. The days were starting to seem hotter.

From Top Springs, the Buntine Highway was narrow and sealed. It was interesting enough, with some low range areas breaking up the grassland sections. Along the way we passed the turnoff to the Birrimba  station, once owned by a lady I knew back in my teaching days, who was an advocate for the needs of isolated students. I wondered idly if her family was still there.

At the intersection with the Victoria Highway, we turned west and thus onto a road travelled before – most recently last year. This time, we had the luxury of leisure time to explore.

Gregory National Park is slightly strange, in being divided into two different sections, with considerable distance between them. It is about 85kms by road between the parts, though south of the highway they are closer. I presumed, from the irregular boundaries, that both sections had been pastoral leases. The section between them was now marked on my road atlas as Aboriginal land. The eastern section contains some of the upper Victoria River and is spectacular range and gorge country, whereas the western part is flatter and has tributary streams of the Victoria River. The Park is regarded as marking the division between the tropical north and the semi arid grassland areas to the south. Thus, like Davenport Ranges, it is biologically diverse.

Pulled into the Sullivan Creek Camp Ground, just inside the National Park, which – according to one of my guide books – was a good place from which to explore that section of the Park. It looked very pleasant – fairly small, with toilet. There was a fireplace and low table in a circular central area, protected from encroachment by vehicles by bollards. The small creek looked lovely.

Sullivan Creek Campground

There were two vans already set up, parked in the most secluded corner of the camp area. We decided to stay and paid our $6.60 into the honesty box provided. Found a place to set up, parallel to the bollards of the central area, with M behind us.

John did not want to pull into any of the nicer, bushy corners, because he wanted full sun on the solar panels. He declared that he would decide where we parked, and that he did not want my input, at all! The result was that he did not get my input – and parked the rig pointing the wrong way, so the van door opened out into the road part, not towards the bollards. Eventually, he realized this, and had to drive away and come back from the other direction. Face was lost!

We wandered about, looking at the creek. It formed a small waterhole here which would be very tempting in hot weather. But it also might not be croc free…..

Sullivan Creek

As the afternoon wore on, a surprising number of rigs arrived, the last couple well after dark. They ended up squashed in everywhere, with later comers just parked on the access road itself. I find it quite incredible, how late some people travel. There had also been a few who drove in, looked, and departed again.

Zoom image of Sullivan Creek Campground

After tea, we chatted for a while with a couple who had set up by a fireplace not far from us. They were travelling with just a vehicle, being workers moving from one place to another,  and set up a foam mattress by the fire, to sleep on. She – an indigenous lady – was an interesting person to talk to. She told us they were moving elsewhere to work because she was sick of her relatives “bludging off us”.


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2000 Travels June 20

TUESDAY 20 JUNE   DUNMARRA TO TOP SPRINGS   198kms

Despite the highway noise, and that of other travellers getting going, we managed to sleep in until 8 and 8.30am, respectively. It was not intentional.

The bush thick knee was wandering about near our site, again.

We were the last ones out of the caravan park!

We bought fuel at the Roadhouse – $1.12cpl!

Then, John decided he wanted to phone his mates at Cockatoo. This took half an hour, so it was 11am when we finally left Dunmarra.

There was a few kms on the highway, then we turned left onto the unsealed Top Springs road – the Buchanan “Highway”. We stopped at the turn off to take off the weight distribution bars.

The road seemed reasonable. It was firm gravel type surface and was not rough, compared to some we’d been on.

We saw a big, 2 metre long reptile just starting to cross the road, and stopped to take a photo of it – at a prudent distance! I did not know what kind it was – maybe a King Brown snake? Or a python of some sort? I did not know how to tell the difference between a snake and a python. But it looked somehow more “snaky” to me.

06-20-2000 king brown.jpg

Long reptile – looks like we might have squashed its tail!

There were plenty of birds about, and plenty of plants in flower, which made the drive an attractive one.

We got a flat tyre on the van – the first one ever! It took us about half an hour to change the wheel. The tyre was ruined – it looked like a sharp stone had gone through the side wall. The van tyres are still the ones we started out with, in 1997, so are different from the ones we now have on Truck.

06-20-2000 first van flat .jpg

First ever flat tyre on the caravan

Not long after we got going again, we encountered a Down Under Tours bus, towing a trailer, heading east. On the CB, he said the road ahead wasn’t too bad, there was a bit of a washout at Coolibah Creek, beyond Top Springs, but it was better than last year.

That was the only vehicle we saw on the road, all day.

We had a late lunch parked by the crossing of the Armstrong River – really a creek with a bit of water each side of the ford. Watched birds while we ate – mostly finches.

We reached Top Springs about 3pm. We knew it was too late to go on and reach Timber Creek today, so had to decide whether to stay here or go on and try to find a camp in the bush further along. We’d been told this place could get pretty rowdy – hooligans, according to one traveller – but decided to take the risk. It was not a weekend, when workers from the surrounding stations might be in to celebrate, and it wasn’t pension payment day, either.

Top Springs is a hotel/motel and roadhouse, with a sort-of caravan area. It is at a crossroads – the east-west road we are taking, and a north-south one that goes from west of Katherine, down to Halls Creek, in WA. This is a region of really large cattle stations.

We were charged $14 for a powered spot. Had to go under overhanging trees and plug into an extension lead rather than a pole. It was alright for a night. The showers and toilets were adequate.

06-20-2000 Top Springs caravan facility.jpg

Top Springs site

There were butcher birds about – singing their carolling song, and  we saw a rufous throated honeyeater – a new bird.

After the minimal set up, we wandered over to the hotel and had a beer each at the bar – $3.50 each. There was a road making crew came in and stayed at some of the room accommodation. Some aborigines set up camp out the front, too.

When we arrived on our site, there was a man working on his car, near us. Then a helicopter flew in, landed at the side of the enclosed yard area, and this man went through a form of job interview – for about five minutes. He was hired, there and then, as a stockman on Camfield Station, about 90kms SW of here.

06-20-2000 job hire top springs

Arriving to conduct a job interview

The chopper took off again, and the stockman left to drive to his new job. Just like that!

Tea was soup, fried rice, yoghurt.

I phoned K from the public phone box over at the hotel, and left a message where we were.

06-20-2000 late pm top springs

Late afternoon at Top Springs

After dark there was a surprising amount of road train traffic. They all seemed to stop, for a meal or a drink, before moving off, with accompanying noise.

There was a nice moon. The night was so warm that we didn’t need the doona at all, for most of it.

06-20-2000 to top springs