This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels May 25

MONDAY 25 MAY     TOWNSVILLE

John was up early to take Truck to the Landrover place, not long after it opened. I pottered about and read, trying not to think of what this might cost us! John came back with Truck much sooner than I had expected. It needed tropical weight oil in the gearbox, not the cold weather oil of down south! That was all. No charge, except for the oil. What a relief!

Now that we still have wheels, I phoned and made a doctor’s appointment for midday – she has the same name as me. I want to get checked out because I’ve been getting really tight feelings in the chest, over the past couple of months.

John commenced some bread making and left it to rise while we went to the nearby medical centre.

The doctor was very thorough. She thinks the upper chest discomfort and tightness  is muscular, associated with the larynx spasms I’ve had, periodically, since a thyroid operation in late 1996. I thought it might have been stress related, from becoming uncomfortable with towing, and John’s tension when doing so. She did an ECG to be on the safe side – it showed no irregularities at all. That also was a relief. She sent me on to a pathology centre to have blood taken for a check of the thyroid function, when she heard that I only have a half one. I will not get the results until Wednesday, so have to be here in Townsville until at least Thursday.

John was very gleeful that it was me having blood extracted, for once. The pathology person was more skilled than some I have encountered, and extracted the blood with no dramas.

Back at camp, he cooked the bread and we ate some for a late lunch. At Airlie Beach I’d been able to buy soy flour to use in it, as the recipe dictates. It was good.

Drove to the Botanic Gardens and did a short walk.

John wanted to call in at the Jubilee Bowls Club, where he was able to book in for a game tomorrow.

We drove out the Charters Towers road for a way, just to look, and saw a sign to Mt Stuart – 9kms. It was a narrow, sealed road, to the top of a mountain behind Townsville, with many TV and communications antennas and structures on it, and a nice Rotary Lookout. It was a similar view to last night’s at dusk, but a different perspective, and much higher. We could see a big dam out the back – the Ross River Dam. Looks like a huge body of water.

It was dark by the time we got down the bottom of the mountain. There was a steady stream of semis setting off along the road to the west.

The park office was still open, so I saw the lady about staying on. She said we could only stay on our site until Thursday morning, because it is booked after that. So that decided it – we are leaving here Thursday. I was a bit peeved – they are hardly full here – I thought she could have offered to juggle sites around, to keep us on. Just a hireling with little initiative, I guess.

John wanted bacon, eggs and bread for tea. I had some bacon and the spinach left from last night – a nice, light meal.

Tried to phone the offspring. Got K on the radphone, and started to instruct him to send mail to Mission Beach. I am expecting some share material that will need reply to a deadline. Lost the link, so phoned him on the public phone. Left message on V’s answering machine. R was constantly engaged.

Watched some TV. Went to bed about 9.30pm. It has been a day of good news!


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1998 Travels May 24

SUNDAY 24 MAY   AIRLIE BEACH TO TOWNSVILLE   285kms

All initially went well in the getting away process – until John had van and Truck just hitched up, but we still had to deal with the chains,  and the last minute things. So we were sticking out into the roadway – a non-through road for the sites further along from us. In a typical occurrence of Murphy’s Law, another rig was ready to go, and impatient. John went to back up for a metre or so, to get the right angle to pull van out. Truck would not go into reverse! He could not go forward as he was right up against a pole with a fire hose. Eventually, after much anxiety, he did get it into reverse, after engaging low range. It was a real hassle. We had to finish the pack up with the van parked some distance from our site, but at least pointing forwards! When tested again, there was still the problem with reverse.

We wondered  whether the gearbox has somehow been stuffed up with all the sand and salt, driving on Fraser Island. We were worrying, because this could be very costly. Also because we can’t stay here – will have to get the vehicle checked out by a Landrover dealer – it is still under warranty. But we were concerned that all the gears might go, whilst we are trying to get to somewhere with a dealer.

We took the back road from Cannon Valley, through Strathdickie, to the Bruce Highway, then on north. We did not drive into Bowen – the highway skirts the edge. Our Truck manual lists a dealer in Townsville, so that has become today’s goal.

The country we drove through today seemed drier than further south, with tall grassland between more widely spaced trees. It was mostly cattle country, interspersed with a few areas of sugar cane. The highway mostly ran parallel to inland ranges; occasionally we went through low gaps where there was higher ground on the coastal side, too.

Between Home Hill and Ayr, we crossed the really wide Burdekin River, on a high up silver steel bridge that looked like something from an old Meccano set. The metal framework extended over the top of the bridge, as well as up the sides. The bridge roadway is not all that wide, so there is not much room between passing vehicles. The bridge is over 1km long. There was a sugar mill just before the bridge, too.

We stopped for lunch at an excellent picnic area and rest stop on the outskirts of Ayr, making sure we did not need to reverse to get out again.

At Townsville, went into the Big 4 Walkabout Palms Caravan Park. It was the first park we came to, on our side of the highway, one where John could pull over, still facing forward, while I went in to see if they could take us. We paid $15.30 a night; they were fine about us not knowing how long we’d be staying. We were able to select our own site, too.

John decided we would attempt to reverse onto a nice, shaded, slabbed site. We could have driven straight through onto a grassed, not so nice one. I was told to try the reversing, on his instructions. I did get it into reverse, but it was not easy and I had to fiddle with High and Low Range to do it. I am wondering if that big clunk on Fraser is related to this? Anyway, we got the van onto our good site, and all set up.

The park office is in a big 24-hour roadhouse and we were given free coffee and biscuits – a nice touch. John indulged himself with a dim sim too.

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A worried 285 km drive today

We ventured out to go for a drive through the city, partly to locate the Landrover place where John will take Truck tomorrow. Townsville is so much bigger than I expected – 130,000 people! It is by far the biggest tropical city in Australia. I think I envisaged something like Mackay – certainly smaller than Darwin. So I am amazed. It is a sprawling place. There seems to be a lot of water lying about, and swamps. The Ross River flows through town – guess that is where the virus comes from? Certainly looks a happy place for mosquitoes!

Drove past the Landrover dealer – easy to find. Continued on to the sea front Strand, parked Truck, and walked along it. Part was footpath, part sand. We saw some very imaginative landscaping of a cliff face that backs onto part of the waterfront, with a man-made waterfall dropping some 20 metres into a fern grotto.

It was a very pleasant walk in the afternoon sea breeze. There were lots of tropical type smells. We walked past the Seabreeze Hotel where there was some sort of big and raucous event happening – it looked like some form of stripping and musical chairs!

There is much evidence of storm damage from earlier in the year. In January, while we were staying in Ballarat, the aftermath of a cyclone brought really heavy rain, over several days. Something like a metre of rain fell, parts of the city were under 3 metres of water and there was enormous damage. Great chunks of the sea wall and pavement area have been eroded and undermined.

There is a big marina at one end of the Strand.

Magnetic Island is just offshore – it looks big.

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Magnetic Island from the Strand at Townsville

Just before sunset, we drove up Castle Hill. This is a big, rocky monolith, some 286 metres high, that juts out of the surrounding flat ground. Townsville city splits around and surrounds it. Castle Hill is a real landmark for Townsville. A steep and winding sealed road goes up it. There were lots of people walking or running up and down its several kms length. The view from the top was excellent, and lovely as the lights started to come on, and there were some sunset colours.

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Sunset from Castle Hill – looking over Rowes Bay

Back at the van, tea was fries, mushrooms, steak, spinach. There was some of the latter left over – I must try to find a recipe for leftover spinach! Suppose I could freeze it.


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1998 Travels March 25

WEDNESDAY 25 MARCH     QUEANBEYAN

We were up before 6am. Drove to Central, to the bus station. Got there at 7.10 and the bus left at 7.20. Never let it be said that we are excessively early for things!

After the bus had departed, I had to drive Truck out to Belconnen, where John had arranged to have the brakes checked at the Landrover dealer. John has recently been unhappy with the way they are working – not stopping strongly enough. I was just a little ahead of the peak traffic time!

I walked around the Westfield Shopping Centre, from 8.30am till 1pm. Think I saw every shop in the place, and did much browsing. Bought an ice cream cone and had a couple of coffees. Had some lunch – a roll.

At 1pm, phoned Landrover and they said I could collect Truck and go. Good! I was getting rather bored with the shopping centre, and was pleased to be ahead of the late afternoon traffic.

Back to the caravan park. The brakes seemed alright to me. The mechanic said they had driven it up and down Black Mountain to test it, but did not indicate what they had done to remedy the brakes.

I read and sewed for the rest of the day.

Had a very light tea – just some salad.

The graduation ceremony was mostly an evening affair, so I thought of John, hoping he’d travelled comfortably, found his daughter appreciative of the effort it has taken for him to go down there – and that my son has found him a decent hotel room.


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1998 Travels February 24

TUESDAY 24 FEBRUARY     HEALESVILLE

We were up really early and left the park at 6am!  It was still dark. The reason for this unlikely behaviour was that Truck was booked in for a service at the Frankston dealer’s, where we bought it. John is also getting mudflaps and Polyair suspension airbags fitted, and the tyres rotated. Frankston is a long way from Healesville. At least, we were so early that we were before the worst of the traffic, and we had Truck there by the required 8am.

We had several hours to fill in somehow, and without our own transport. John’s first idea was to visit one of his sisters, at Seaford. He thought we could walk it – turned out to be about 4kms, and by the time we got there, she was not home. He had not contacted her in advance.

Rather than walk back to Frankston, we managed to catch a bus to the centre.

Spent over an hour browsing in an Office Works shop. Actual shopping had to be very limited because of having to carry anything we bought, for hours. Had a coffee. Then to Lincraft so I could browse – but there was some pressure on me not to take too long! We bought rolls for lunch and ate them outside the shop.

John wanted to go to the cinema. We saw “As Good as it Gets” and enjoyed the film. Jack Nicholson was very good; the dog was excellent!

Took a taxi back to the Landrover dealership, about which John was not particularly happy, but I was tired and it was just too much effort to walk, or try to find a correct bus. I needed easy mode! The taxi only cost $7.50, anyway.

Work was all done. It all cost $650, which we were satisfied with. But we are starting to suspect that nothing associated with Landrovers is cheap!

Also bought some coolant for Truck – to be emergency supply. The “recipe” is 3 bottles of this into radiator and fill up with water. Hope we don’t need this.

It was a tedious drive back to Healesville, through the building late afternoon traffic.

John’s younger daughter was expected to tea tonight – only time she had available, but not the best timing for us.

I cooked steak and mushrooms, served with salad. Fruit to follow. Not particularly fancy, but time was restricted.

While I was preparing tea, I heard a great crashing noise outside. Further along the row of sites, a large branch had fallen from a gum tree. It fell neatly between two adjacent vans, with the only damage very slight, to a car. Very lucky in the way it fell – would have squashed the vans had it landed on them. I am pleased that there are no sizeable trees hanging over us.

Pleasant enough evening, and R did not stay late, which was good as we both needed an early night.

We drove 185kms today. Two big days of driving in a row.


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Background and Preparation – 1997

The 1993 long service leave trip crystallized our desire to travel full time, sooner rather than later. John would be able to take early retirement, with superannuation income, once he turned 57 – in September, 1997. This would also be the year that his younger daughter completed her final year of university, thus ending a major financial outgoing for us. So our thoughts turned to retirement at the end of that year.

We had plenty of time to research and make important decisions. What vehicle would we use? What would we use for accommodation? And – after the late-1996 death of my father, who lived at our place, what would we do about our house, dog and two cats?

Accommodation:

This was the issue that caused us most deliberation. For the four months of our LSL trip, we’d tented it, carrying all the needed camping gear in our Hilux. We put up a hike tent for short stays and a larger one when staying longer in one place. The process of setting up camp was time consuming, though, and more than once we were affected by wet and windy weather.

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A typical camp with our hike tent

Although tenting seemed to offer the greatest flexibility about where we could go, it really did not seem a desirable option for extended travel.

At the same time, we really did not want to tow anything!

And there the issue sat, for a couple of years, during which time we bought a very sturdy and expensive, locally made,  large tent, to replace the old one that had disintegrated in a Mallacoota storm, in 1994. The new tent was much quicker and easier to put up, and much more weatherproof – and after a few school holiday trips with it,  we thought this might do for our future travel.

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The new, easy to put up, tent – in 1995

By the end of 1996, it was becoming obvious that John was going to need hip replacement surgery, before much longer. It would be best to have this done before we set off travelling.

Our tent based camping involved much packing and unpacking of the Hilux, lifting the heavy camp fridge, and the like. This was not going to be very workable with a newly replaced hip, so it was time to seriously consider other options.

We still wanted to be able to access places “off the beaten track”, and certainly off the bitumen, so wanted to retain 4WD capability. Camper trailers fitted this requirement, but the ones we’d seen in our travels to date seemed as time consuming as our tent to put up, and we would still have to carry a lot of the gear in the vehicle, with attendant lifting and packing for John. I hated the idea of maybe having to drop wet canvas sides onto the bed, as we’d seen others having to do.

So, with considerable reluctance, the thoughts turned to caravans. On a holiday trip the previous year, camped at Mootwingee, we’d seen an unusual caravan – a small Supreme Getaway. Until then, we’d had no idea that there was such a thing as an off road caravan! Out of curiosity, back home, we arranged to go to the factory and have a close-up look at one of these units.

Just about convinced that one of these would suit us, we went off to the Melbourne Caravan and Camping Show, in early 1997, intending to have a really good final inspection of the Supreme, and order one. However, at the Show, there was another offroad caravan display – that of Trakmaster, a fairly new entrant to the realm of such vans. We spent several hours going back and forth between the two displays, and ended up putting a deposit on an order for a Trakmaster Kimberley, to be built in late 1997. Apart from the merits of the van itself, the factory was only a few kms away from home, and it turned out that, through work, I had links to the owners. Everything aligned.

John’s hip was replaced in August, but resulting health dramas kept him hospitalized for over a month, and convalescent for some time after that.

It came time to finalize the details of our van build; Craig from Trakmaster very obligingly came to us, as John was not mobile. What we wanted was the minimum required for comfort and utility, in our 14 foot pop top.

Storage had to be maximized, as we would be living full time in the van. Two 9kg gas bottles and 120L of fresh water storage gave us considerable capacity to be away from services. A gas cook top and oven was chosen – no microwave, thinking that corrugated roads would not be good for same. We minimized electricity use by not having a hot water service, or electric water pump – no bathroom, either. We did buy a porta potty – but ended up never using it, though the shovel we carried on the roof rack got a good workout in some places!

I had read about a marine 12v compressor driven fridge that was used in boats and worked in the roughest of seas – a Vitrifrigo – sounded like it might endure rough roads, too. Compressor driven would work better in the tropics than the conventional 3-way fridges. Craig agreed to install the Vitrifrigo for us. The van would be built with provision for solar panels to be installed later – we didn’t think we’d need same for the first year or so, and wanted to wait for the emerging technology to develop further. The fridge, lights and range hood fan would be powered from the 12V battery, which would be charged from 240v hook ups in caravan parks, until we eventually put in solar power.

On camping trips, we had been taking our two mountain bikes on a sturdy carry frame on the tow ball of the 4WD. Craig worked out that he could extend the A frame of our van and build a cross member on it that would hold a tow ball and thus enable the bikes and carrier to go at the front of the van. Then, we would have the flexibility of still being able to use the bike carrier on the back of the 4WD, on day trips.

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Our bikes on the rack we wanted to also use on the caravan

We opted for an awning that fitted into a sail track channel – more work in setting up, but we did not want an attached one that could pull the pop top askew, or be scraped off by trees on narrow tracks. There would be two jerry can carriers on the back bumper frame of the van. One of my farewell presents from work colleagues was three metal jerry cans! The three wheels would be the same as on our 4WD, thus making spares interchangeable.

Trakmaster vans featured sturdy off road independent trailing arm suspension and Treg poly block hitches, that enabled a considerable variation in angle between van and tow vehicle, such as one might get on rough tracks.

Through October and November, 1997, John had to go to Knox Hospital once a week for blood tests. His “reward” after each procedure, was to call in at the caravan factory at Bayswater and see how our build was progressing. So we closely followed the van’s construction, from the time of the chassis delivery, on. At times we had wondered about the wisdom of going with such a new caravan manufacturer, but were reassured by the quality of the construction we saw.

In late November, we took delivery of our Kimberley – the 36th caravan built by Trakmaster! Trakmaster staff attached the van to the receiver on our vehicle, and we towed it the 10kms home. Neither of us liked the feel of driving with the van on – a distinct forward and back pitching sensation. We could only hope that the loaded van would feel different!

John had contacted Hayman Reece, about setting up a weight distribution system on the rig. We were lucky, in that they had just developed a hitch that was compatible with the Treg coupling – in fact, they were looking for customers for this to give them feedback. John took the rig to have this fitted – and a great, cumbersome thing it was, too. But he reported that the pitching sensation was less.

As our travel plans began to become clearer, it was decided that we would carry, in the 4WD, both the large tent and a  hike tent, as well as some camping gear.  If John’s hip permitted, we had some plans to visit places where we wouldn’t want to tow, but would store the van and take to the tents.

The vehicle:

Since 1992, our travel vehicle had been a Toyota Hilux. This had served us well, most of the time, but it was not a very comfortable ride. It had a very low tow rating, and would not be suitable to tow much at all.

I started buying 4WD magazines and reading reviews. We needed a capable off-road vehicle, capable of towing a caravan. This research threw up one we’d never even heard of before – the Landrover Defender! They received great reviews for off road ability, and were rated to tow 3.5 tonnes.

It was not that easy to find a Defender to look at! There were not many Landrover dealers in Melbourne and most did not have a Defender to display – not exactly being an urban car. In early 1997, John located a demo model of a 110 Tdi wagon at the Frankston dealership, went and had a look at it, liked the deal they offered, took me there the next day to inspect – and we bought it! 5000kms already done – for a diesel engine, hardly run in! Being a demo version it had some valuable extras – side steps, bull bar, cargo protector, roof rack and a back ladder to access same. It also had a very “rural” appearance – brick-like! Although I initially found it rather claustrophobic inside, after the space of the Hilux, this was easy to adjust to – and the seats were much more comfortable.

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The arrival of the new Truck at home

I had only one real reservation about the new Truck – the whole unit was one integrated piece. I still had vivid memories of the time we loaded firewood into the back of the Hilux, along with a colony of huntsmen! I resolved that no wood would ever go in the new Truck.

Through 1997, we had the vehicle fitted out for the travel we planned. Winch fitted to the front. Both a CB and HF radio fitted; they went on a shelf above the front window; the main part of the HF radio went under the rear passenger seat. A snorkel was installed. So was a second cranking battery – there was space under my seat for this. An inbuilt air compressor fitted under the back seat, with the storage tank under the Truck body. We put in a cargo barrier. We found that the already fitted side steps precluded putting in a second fuel tank, and decided the steps were of more value.

Hayman Reece took care of towbar installation. A brake controller for the van brakes was fitted.

We trialled the new Truck on a couple of school holiday trips. What did surprise us was how much gear could be fitted into the back – very capacious.

The house and pets:

My son K, and his partner, P, agreed to move from their rented house  into our home and mind it and our pets, for the duration. As well as solving the pet care issue, this would enable them to save more towards ultimately buying their own first home.

We debated and agonized over whether to take dog Butch with us on our travels, or leave her at home. She had travelled with us on some of our school holiday trips and managed the travel well. But we knew having her with us would preclude the National Parks visits we hoped to do, and I was dubious about taking her into parts where there were things like crocodiles, 1080 baits, and wild dogs. She had initially been son’s dog, so in the end we left her home.

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We thought long and hard about taking Butch with us

Through 1997, we did some downsizing of our possessions, with the aim of being able to pack away all our furniture and belongings into our bedroom, John’s study, and his shed – which would also store my small Barina car, with its battery removed.  Between us, we’d accumulated over a thousand books that had to go – a very eclectic lot, that sold to a booklover who had lost her collection in a fire.

The budget:

We will have to be fairly careful with money, as we still have the fixed costs associated with our home to cover, like rates and insurance. Can only do a rough travel budget estimation, until we see what the realities of travel are. That estimate is $100 a week for caravan park/camping fees; $100 a week for diesel; and $200 a week for food and all else. Some weeks we will exceed these amounts, but other weeks will be under – and hopefully the average will be about right.

We aim to keep enough in savings for things like vehicle servicing, tyres and unforeseen events.

The initial plan:

The starting point was a broad plan to be “up north” in the Dry season, and somewhere more comfortable once the rains and humidity set in, up there.

We focussed on Queensland, because John had never been there, and I had only holidayed briefly around the south east corner. After our successful foray into the wilds of the Kimberley, a few years before, Cape York seemed to beckon as a key destination for the first year of travel.

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Our plan for several years of travel

We would have to be back in Melbourne for a few weeks in March of 1999, for K and P’s wedding, and to “mind” our own home while they honeymooned overseas. My daughter, V, and John’s elder daughter, S, both rather conveniently had their weddings during 1997!

John was determined to come off the Warfarin medication that he’d been on since September, with its attendant blood tests and uncertainties about dosages, that could really impact on our travels. The physician was dubious, but under pressure decided John should have tests to see if he had a clotting disorder. The complication was that he would have to wean gradually off the Warfarin, then go to Royal Melbourne Hospital for these special tests, which could not be done until February.  By this time, it was December. Son and partner had already moved into our place, when their lease expired in November, and were expecting us to depart just after New Year!

We decided to stick to planned departure date, and do a six week shakedown trip through the Western District, returning close enough to Melbourne for John to have the tests, before then heading north. As it worked out, this was really of benefit, because it enabled us to assess what we had and had not packed, and adjust things before we finally set off. Remember that we had not even done an overnight trip in the van, at this stage!

It also meant that there was no pressure on John to do great distances – we could take it easy and let his leg adjust and get stronger.

December was a whirlwind – all the usual end of school year work for me, complicated by having to sort/pack/discard the accumulation of sixteen years at the place; farewell functions for me; hosting the family Xmas; having P and K living with us; organizing what we would take away; packing all else into two rooms. John’s ability to lift or carry anything heavy or bulky was limited, so much of the packing fell to me. There seemed no end to the last minute things, but eventually it was 1998 and we were ready to go………adventuring, we hoped.

It was a good thing that we had focussed on the Western District for our short, initial trip, as just about all the other parts of Victoria had significant bushfires going by the time we were ready to leave.