This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels May 27

WEDNESDAY 27 MAY     TOWNSVILLE

A day of odds and ends.

Drove to shops, where we mailed letters. I bought a long sleeved cotton top – to deter biteys but not be too hot. John bought a pair of footy shorts – he likes to wear these rather than more stylish ones. We measured the size of plastic cube crates in a shop.

After lunch, went back to the same shops. John bought more of the same shorts – he was really pleased because they had pockets. I bought a little battery operated dictaphone for recording travel comments as we are going along. Bought four of the cube boxes.

Visited the Tourist Information Centre and obtained some material about places north. Bought a more detailed map of northern  Qld than the one in my Road Atlas.

Went to the doctor’s surgery. All my blood tests were alright, which confirmed what I thought. Half thyroid is working fine.

John repacked the back of Truck, using the new cubes to replace odd shaped cartons. My books and maps fitted into two cubes! The cube shape allows these boxes to be readily stacked on top of each other – the roof height of Truck allows for a stack of three of these. It is a much better use of the space in there.

We had quite a long chat with new neighbours, about hip replacements, schools and education. They do VISE tutoring on remote properties, something that may be valid for us in the future. It seems a way of seeing some remote areas from the “inside”. School of the Air supplies the materials; they get meals provided by the host family. They do six week stints at a time.

Just to be on the safe side, as we are getting towards the peak tourist season in these parts, I phoned and booked us in for a week at Mission Beach and two weeks at Cairns. I do not really like booking ahead, with place and park unseen, but it seemed prudent.

I roasted John’s chook for tea, with the usual vegies and gravy.


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1998 Travels May 26

TUESDAY 26 MAY     TOWNSVILLE

I did a load of washing – $2.

John worked on letter to R.

Then we drove to the Stockland Centre, a few kms from here, a big, roofed shopping complex that has all the major shops. I bought a larger bread baking tin. Put in photos and wandered the shops for an hour until they were done. Bought some groceries.

After lunch, John went to bowls. I finished a letter to V, and then read. John came home about 5.30pm – with a chook. He’d won “best losers”. It was actually $5 but he bought the chook on his way home, because it seemed more of a trophy!

Tea was again John’s choice – homemade hamburgers. We enjoyed them.

After tea, John finished his letter to R. He had some frustrations with getting it printed, but eventually it worked. I spent an hour or so sitting outside, under the awning, reading – John was sorting out his dad’s war material and had it all over the table, benches and bed. There was no room for me!

The skies were cloudy today, but it was still warm – about 27 degrees. The nights are surprisingly cool.


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1998 Travels May 25

MONDAY 25 MAY     TOWNSVILLE

John was up early to take Truck to the Landrover place, not long after it opened. I pottered about and read, trying not to think of what this might cost us! John came back with Truck much sooner than I had expected. It needed tropical weight oil in the gearbox, not the cold weather oil of down south! That was all. No charge, except for the oil. What a relief!

Now that we still have wheels, I phoned and made a doctor’s appointment for midday – she has the same name as me. I want to get checked out because I’ve been getting really tight feelings in the chest, over the past couple of months.

John commenced some bread making and left it to rise while we went to the nearby medical centre.

The doctor was very thorough. She thinks the upper chest discomfort and tightness  is muscular, associated with the larynx spasms I’ve had, periodically, since a thyroid operation in late 1996. I thought it might have been stress related, from becoming uncomfortable with towing, and John’s tension when doing so. She did an ECG to be on the safe side – it showed no irregularities at all. That also was a relief. She sent me on to a pathology centre to have blood taken for a check of the thyroid function, when she heard that I only have a half one. I will not get the results until Wednesday, so have to be here in Townsville until at least Thursday.

John was very gleeful that it was me having blood extracted, for once. The pathology person was more skilled than some I have encountered, and extracted the blood with no dramas.

Back at camp, he cooked the bread and we ate some for a late lunch. At Airlie Beach I’d been able to buy soy flour to use in it, as the recipe dictates. It was good.

Drove to the Botanic Gardens and did a short walk.

John wanted to call in at the Jubilee Bowls Club, where he was able to book in for a game tomorrow.

We drove out the Charters Towers road for a way, just to look, and saw a sign to Mt Stuart – 9kms. It was a narrow, sealed road, to the top of a mountain behind Townsville, with many TV and communications antennas and structures on it, and a nice Rotary Lookout. It was a similar view to last night’s at dusk, but a different perspective, and much higher. We could see a big dam out the back – the Ross River Dam. Looks like a huge body of water.

It was dark by the time we got down the bottom of the mountain. There was a steady stream of semis setting off along the road to the west.

The park office was still open, so I saw the lady about staying on. She said we could only stay on our site until Thursday morning, because it is booked after that. So that decided it – we are leaving here Thursday. I was a bit peeved – they are hardly full here – I thought she could have offered to juggle sites around, to keep us on. Just a hireling with little initiative, I guess.

John wanted bacon, eggs and bread for tea. I had some bacon and the spinach left from last night – a nice, light meal.

Tried to phone the offspring. Got K on the radphone, and started to instruct him to send mail to Mission Beach. I am expecting some share material that will need reply to a deadline. Lost the link, so phoned him on the public phone. Left message on V’s answering machine. R was constantly engaged.

Watched some TV. Went to bed about 9.30pm. It has been a day of good news!


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1998 Travels May 24

SUNDAY 24 MAY   AIRLIE BEACH TO TOWNSVILLE   285kms

All initially went well in the getting away process – until John had van and Truck just hitched up, but we still had to deal with the chains,  and the last minute things. So we were sticking out into the roadway – a non-through road for the sites further along from us. In a typical occurrence of Murphy’s Law, another rig was ready to go, and impatient. John went to back up for a metre or so, to get the right angle to pull van out. Truck would not go into reverse! He could not go forward as he was right up against a pole with a fire hose. Eventually, after much anxiety, he did get it into reverse, after engaging low range. It was a real hassle. We had to finish the pack up with the van parked some distance from our site, but at least pointing forwards! When tested again, there was still the problem with reverse.

We wondered  whether the gearbox has somehow been stuffed up with all the sand and salt, driving on Fraser Island. We were worrying, because this could be very costly. Also because we can’t stay here – will have to get the vehicle checked out by a Landrover dealer – it is still under warranty. But we were concerned that all the gears might go, whilst we are trying to get to somewhere with a dealer.

We took the back road from Cannon Valley, through Strathdickie, to the Bruce Highway, then on north. We did not drive into Bowen – the highway skirts the edge. Our Truck manual lists a dealer in Townsville, so that has become today’s goal.

The country we drove through today seemed drier than further south, with tall grassland between more widely spaced trees. It was mostly cattle country, interspersed with a few areas of sugar cane. The highway mostly ran parallel to inland ranges; occasionally we went through low gaps where there was higher ground on the coastal side, too.

Between Home Hill and Ayr, we crossed the really wide Burdekin River, on a high up silver steel bridge that looked like something from an old Meccano set. The metal framework extended over the top of the bridge, as well as up the sides. The bridge roadway is not all that wide, so there is not much room between passing vehicles. The bridge is over 1km long. There was a sugar mill just before the bridge, too.

We stopped for lunch at an excellent picnic area and rest stop on the outskirts of Ayr, making sure we did not need to reverse to get out again.

At Townsville, went into the Big 4 Walkabout Palms Caravan Park. It was the first park we came to, on our side of the highway, one where John could pull over, still facing forward, while I went in to see if they could take us. We paid $15.30 a night; they were fine about us not knowing how long we’d be staying. We were able to select our own site, too.

John decided we would attempt to reverse onto a nice, shaded, slabbed site. We could have driven straight through onto a grassed, not so nice one. I was told to try the reversing, on his instructions. I did get it into reverse, but it was not easy and I had to fiddle with High and Low Range to do it. I am wondering if that big clunk on Fraser is related to this? Anyway, we got the van onto our good site, and all set up.

The park office is in a big 24-hour roadhouse and we were given free coffee and biscuits – a nice touch. John indulged himself with a dim sim too.

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A worried 285 km drive today

We ventured out to go for a drive through the city, partly to locate the Landrover place where John will take Truck tomorrow. Townsville is so much bigger than I expected – 130,000 people! It is by far the biggest tropical city in Australia. I think I envisaged something like Mackay – certainly smaller than Darwin. So I am amazed. It is a sprawling place. There seems to be a lot of water lying about, and swamps. The Ross River flows through town – guess that is where the virus comes from? Certainly looks a happy place for mosquitoes!

Drove past the Landrover dealer – easy to find. Continued on to the sea front Strand, parked Truck, and walked along it. Part was footpath, part sand. We saw some very imaginative landscaping of a cliff face that backs onto part of the waterfront, with a man-made waterfall dropping some 20 metres into a fern grotto.

It was a very pleasant walk in the afternoon sea breeze. There were lots of tropical type smells. We walked past the Seabreeze Hotel where there was some sort of big and raucous event happening – it looked like some form of stripping and musical chairs!

There is much evidence of storm damage from earlier in the year. In January, while we were staying in Ballarat, the aftermath of a cyclone brought really heavy rain, over several days. Something like a metre of rain fell, parts of the city were under 3 metres of water and there was enormous damage. Great chunks of the sea wall and pavement area have been eroded and undermined.

There is a big marina at one end of the Strand.

Magnetic Island is just offshore – it looks big.

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Magnetic Island from the Strand at Townsville

Just before sunset, we drove up Castle Hill. This is a big, rocky monolith, some 286 metres high, that juts out of the surrounding flat ground. Townsville city splits around and surrounds it. Castle Hill is a real landmark for Townsville. A steep and winding sealed road goes up it. There were lots of people walking or running up and down its several kms length. The view from the top was excellent, and lovely as the lights started to come on, and there were some sunset colours.

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Sunset from Castle Hill – looking over Rowes Bay

Back at the van, tea was fries, mushrooms, steak, spinach. There was some of the latter left over – I must try to find a recipe for leftover spinach! Suppose I could freeze it.


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1998 Travels May 23

SATURDAY 23 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

We had a fairly quiet, puddling about kind of day. I did mention going for a drive, but couldn’t come up with a must-do destination, given that neither of us was really keen on a big expedition.

We drove to the morning markets on the Esplanade and bought some fresh produce, direct from the farmers: oranges, mandarins, grapefruit, limes, spinach, capsicums, cucumbers, bananas, rock melon. All were cheaper by far than in the shops and obviously very fresh. $15 worth. We will have to get into the habit of looking out for markets like this. Nothing else there was really attractive to older travellers like us.

Got diesel – 72cpl. It is creeping up!

After lunch, we packed up the awning, loaded up the roof rack with the tables and chairs.

I read the Saturday paper for a while. John watched TV.

Tea was more of the pumpkin soup, left over dips, corn chips, salad. I do not think the pumpkin was a very good one for soup making – it seems to have little taste.


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1998 Travels May 22

FRIDAY 22 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

John bowled all day in the Masters Triples Tournament here.

I did the washing and cleaned the van inside. Then read and sewed.

I walked to the Bowls Club with his lunch and ended up sitting in Truck for an hour, waiting for him to come and get it. It was very hot. His morning went well – won both games. He was really thrilled at that stage, by how well he was playing.

I took Truck and went and did a grocery shop, for a week. I had to get an “advance” on next week’s housekeeping – it has been a costly couple of weeks.

I drove and collected John from bowls at 5pm.  He was even more thrilled, because he’d won the Silver Medal! I took photos and we hung the medal in the van. He has paid for a photo of the team that was taken at the club and must ring the man involved in a couple of weeks about sending it on.

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John with the Silver Medal won for coming second in the Masters’ Triples

John wants to stay here an extra day – he is not ready to come down to earth yet and do the packing up. So I went to the Office and extended our booking. Was fairly confident it would be alright, as there are quite a few vacant sites here, at any one time.

Tea was bought fish and chips.

Sometime today, somehow,  I have gotten more sandfly bites!


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1998 Travels May 21

THURSDAY 21 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

Today is S’s birthday. The dates kind of got away from John, so we went to the PO and sent off a late card and a cheque. Our mail was there from home and it did contain our Mastercards.

John collected his copies of his father’s war records.

I had another swim in the pool before lunch – mostly, I am the only one in there!

After lunch, we drove towards Shute Harbour and then left Truck in the car park at the start of the Mt Rooper walking track circuit. The track was not too steep, and it was pleasant walking through forests, most of the time. There were great views over the Whitsundays from the top. At the summit, we chatted to a couple of young travellers for a little while; apart from them, there was no one else on the track. John managed the walk well.

On the way back to camp, heard on the radio that a young backpacker was killed this morning, on Fraser Island, in a head-on collision between 4WD’s on the east beach, near the Maheno wreck. It is hard for us to see how it could happen, as the beach is so open, but accidents are fairly common, it seems. Maybe drivers are distracted by the sights. Some European drivers find it hard to stay on the correct side. Some fishing people park their vehicles down close to the water’s edge and this can create a traffic hazard and obscure vision. The backpackers often are not wearing seatbelts.

For tea, I made pumpkin soup and we had bread as well, with guacamole and tzatsiki.


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1998 Travels May 20

WEDNESDAY 20 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

In the morning, John drove into town to arrange the photocopying of some of the WW1 material relating to his father – to send to various family members.

I had a great swim in the pool – love it. We heard a news item the other day that a tourist swimming in the sea at South Molle Island got stingered and had to be air lifted out. No stingers in pools!

In the afternoon, John bowled.

I cycled to the town centre shops, and went for a browse. Bought a caravan magazine that looked to have some interesting destinations featured. Was tempted by some sandals, but resisted buying them. I rode almost 7kms.

We are regularly visited in camp by scrub turkeys, as well as the prowling goannas and a green tree snake. The wild life is not so wild, around here. In fact, it tends towards being rather too familiar! There are also plenty of green ants around. We have seen a pair of sunbirds too – lovely.

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Don’t mind me – just passing through

Tea was left over frankfurts for John, and a tin of tuna for me, with salads.


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1998 Travels May 19

TUESDAY 19 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

Today was one of driving and exploring some of the Airlie hinterland.

We followed farming country back roads, to the west, almost to the Bruce Highway, then took the Dingo Beach road – unsealed for some of the way – and then the road to Hideaway Bay. The name made it sound like a place worth investigating! On some maps it is written as Hydeaway.

Hideaway Bay is aptly named. A few houses, a caravan park, the only shop is the kiosk at the caravan park. We wanted to see what the park was like, and got talking to the owner. Discovered that he is “Tassie” Sherriff, who for a while in the early 1960’s, boarded across the road from where we lived. We had morning tea with him and his wife.

The beach at Hideaway Bay is nicer than that at Airlie – the latter is more gritty and has more mangrove mud on it. We might bring the van out here for an out-of-the-way stay, sometime.

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A coastal view from Hideaway Bay

The road ends a bit further on, up on a bluff behind the houses; there is a padlocked gate and a sign saying  “Private – 4WD only”. My map shows a place called Monte’s Resort at the end of the road, but they obviously do not encourage access by the general public!

Drove back around from Hideaway Bay, and about 5kms distant, we found Dingo Beach, another little coastal village. This has a hotel which doubles (not very successfully) as a shop, as well.

Went for a walk and a bird hunt on a very pretty beach here and ate our lunch, sitting overlooking the bay and islands, near and far. There were a lot of sea birds about, but they were moving too much for easy identification.

Back near the hotel, got talking to a couple of men. One – G – approached us because he wanted to know about the Defender. The other, old,  man had one of those dogs that was constantly looking for us to throw a stick for it. Turned out that G works at Monte’s and he invited us to go out there and have a look around at what he says is “paradise”. So we followed his vehicle, through the locked gate at the end of the road. It really did need 4WD too – over the 5kms, there were some steep and rocky slopes and some creek crossings. One creek was named with a home-made sign saying “Murrells Creek”. We found out later that, a couple of years ago, it was raining heavily and a wall of water came down that creek and picked up the Landcruiser that our new friend is now driving, and carried it 20 metres downstream. Murrell was driving, and nearly drowned.

There is a resort at the end of the track! Right on the beachfront. It has amazing views to nearby Gloucester Island and to others further away. The place was set up by Monte, who is now dead. It is geared mostly to sailing people, who tie up out front and come and spend time on land, at the licensed resort.

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The beach in front of Monte’s Reef Resort, and distant islands

As well as the resort, there are several privately owned blocks of land, some with houses, scattered in the bush. Their freehold title goes right to the sea and they all share rights over common land. It is a very exclusive patch – you can buy a vacant block for about $200,000!

Our new-found friend is the caretaker of one of the houses; the owner has a big business down south and spends a few weeks here, each year. Nice for some!

We bought a couple of rounds of drinks at the Monte’s bar – felt we had to repay G’s hospitality. Three beers cost $10!  We were able to have a wander and a look round – it certainly is away from the hordes, and quite idyllic – at least, at this time of the year. But you obviously need to be a “boatie” to access and enjoy the resort.

05-19-1998 03 Monte's Reef Resort entrance.jpg

John with some very expensive beer

Then, it was a long drive back to camp. G had left the gate padlock undone – we had to fasten it after we’d gone back through. It was dark towards the end of the trip back. We met a number of cows on the unfenced roads, so it was not a fast trip.

We drove 161kms today.

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Where we went today

Tea was frankfurts and mashed potato.

I phoned K about the mail – he is sending it express.


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1998 Travels May 18

MONDAY 18 MAY     AIRLIE BEACH

When I was making breakfast, discovered that John had forgotten to turn the fridge back on, last night. We’d had a defrost! That means we must have the remaining fish for tea, as they are unfrozen. This fridge/TV thing could lead to considerable domestic disharmony!

We drove to the shops. There was mail from S at the PO, containing a lot more WW1 records and information, for John. His tablets from the Cooroy chemist were also there. But there was not the expected mail from home.

I went to a chemist, who gave me anti-histamine tablets to lessen the sandfly reaction, and some Vitamin B1 which, in theory, will make me less attractive to mosquitoes. That chemist must do a roaring trade in sandfly antidotes!

We did a grocery shop, the cost of which looked like we bought a lot more than we did!

After lunch,  cycled out to Mandalay Point, which forms the eastern side of Airlie Bay. It was mostly through bushland, but also past some expensive-looking homes with great views over the bay. It was an 11km ride, with a couple of vicious little hills.

Drove back to Shute Harbour to see if we could catch another brilliant sunset – I wanted to try to photo same – but it poured rain instead!

I cooked the dart fish in foil parcels and served them with some beans.

Phoned K, to check mail situation. He has forgotten to send it! I told him that we really need the new Mastercards  we are expecting will be in there, so he has to investigate Express Mail. I will phone him tomorrow.