This Adventurous Age

February 12, 2017
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1999 Travels February 1

MONDAY 1 FEBRUARY EVANS HEAD

We went for a drive, this morning, across the river – there is a bridge down the river end of town. Found a lookout point that gave a good view over the river entrance and the beach, stretching away to the north.

We continued on to Chinamans Beach, a little to the south. Parked there and walked a short track to the beach, then walked to the north as far as a rocky barrier – not all that far. Retraced our steps and walked south until we came to signs that indicated we should not go any further because it was Defence land and a bombing range. So turned around and went back. It was very pleasant walking.

We ate our packed lunch in the picnic area at Chinamans Beach, then spent some time trying to spot some birds that were being elusive.

Drove back across the bridge and back to Broadwater National Park, where we were yesterday, and gathered some pippis from the sand.

After we got back to the van, I walked to the Library, returned one book and borrowed another. I am still reading Di Morrissey’s Songmaster. I can’t make up my mind whether she over-idealizes and romanticizes the Kimberley aboriginal scenario. The picture she paints does not really accord with what we saw on our 1993 trip there. She does touch on relevant issues such as land rights, tourism to sacred sites, exploitation of aboriginal artists by unscrupulous white dealers, and by their own families; she also highlights the variable quality of such art. Anyway, I am finding it worth reading!

There was more rain this afternoon.

Tea was soup, vegie burgers that I made, and salad.

John is all upset because his waistline has not reduced any since last week! But he has eaten steak and kidney twice and Red Rooster take away – all his idea! But he blames it on drinking wine and has decreed we shall no longer have any in the van! I have informed him that, if this is to be so, then his beers at happy hour time must go, and at bowls clubs he must drink only water. I don’t like the chances of that!

John played computer games until 3.30am.

February 7, 2017
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1999 Travels January 31

SUNDAY 31 JANUARY EVANS HEAD

Woke to find that the storms are over and the rain has drained from the ground remarkably well. The soil here is sandy – no surprise about that – and dries quickly.

More people moved out today. The place is really quite empty now. It feels rather strange to be in such a large, almost deserted caravan park.

Truck has had a rest for a couple of days, but today we went for a morning drive – out to Broadwater National Park, just to the north of here. Went to the picnic area and its associated beach. To get there, drove through the usual sorts of coastal bush, which included some really big and old coast banksias. We watched the sea for a while, and some pippis digging themselves into the sand by the rocks that outcropped right along the beach here.

We went back to the van for lunch, having only driven 29kms.

John watched sport on TV after lunch, and I sewed.

Later in the afternoon, we went for a walk, to the breakwall and walked out along it.

An aerial view of Evans Head, taken from a postcard I bought. The caravan park is on the right, with the big drain evident as the atraight line through it.

There was more rain, on and off, through the afternoon and this limited what we felt like doing.

Tea was soup, steak with mushrooms, potato, tomato, broccoli.

February 7, 2017
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1999 Travels January 30

SATURDAY 30 JANUARY EVANS HEAD

After breakfast, we walked on the beach for about an hour. Then we walked to the local library, which is not far from the park. We were told that, as we are Council tenants, we can borrow from this. I took two books. After this initial loan is returned, I will be entitled to five at a time. This is soooo good! Reading orgy coming up!

Whilst I was browsing for books, John used the internet at the Library to do some research on solar panels. We are both very aware that, once this initial foray up and down the east coast is completed – when we return to Melbourne for K’s wedding – then our further travels will be much more flexible with solar power for the van. So, knowledge about same is becoming important.

After lunch, I read the Weekend Australian. There was no bowls on today, so John watched tennis and cricket on TV.

During the afternoon, there was a massive cloud build-up. Then we had huge thunder, lightning, heavy rain for an hour or so, followed by steady rain through the night. We seem to be in a sheltered spot, though, and were not much affected by the wind. It was all quite elemental and dramatic.

Some spectating entertainment was provided through the day by some family groups that had obviously been set up here for the duration of the holidays. They were moving out today. Some had huge establishments that required two vehicles, with trailers, to move: floorboards. fridges, freezers, washing machines and all. I think they may be families from the region, rather than travellers as such. A bit like the family camps that set up for summer at places like the Mornington Peninsula camp areas.

Tea was a chicken and water chestnut stir fry, which was excellent.

February 7, 2017
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1999 Travels January 29

FRIDAY 29 JANUARY EVANS HEAD

We woke up to some blue sky and balmy breezes. There are still some clouds, but it may be fine for much of the day.

After breakfast, we went for a short walk along the beach. To get to it, we just have to walk down the road past our site, then past the Surf Lifesaving Club and we are on the beach. There is an excellent expanse of non-stop sand, stretching away for kms into the distance to the north. 4WD vehicles are allowed to drive on the beach, north of the town’s edge – so the sand is fairly firm.

In the other direction, the beach only goes for a short way, before it ends against a breakwall that is one of two at the entrance to the Evans River. I presume they are there to stop sand washing in and blocking the river mouth. They don’t go out all that far – maybe fifty metres? It is all very pleasant.

As we walked back to the van, noticed that there is a sort of dish drain that runs through the park and sort of cuts it in half. We crossed it on a little bridge yesterday, but it didn’t really register then. It is a scooped out hollow – grass covered now – that I guess could carry quite a bit of water in heavy rain.

After lunch, John went to bowls. He is actually able to walk there!

I went exploring around the shops to see what is there. Answer – not many, but the basics are covered. Then I did a proper long walk along the beach, for a couple of hours. There were enough people around, at different points, for me to feel quite secure doing this.

John was happy enough with his bowling, even though he played in a losing team. It is a big club.

Tea was soup – from a tin. John had reheated steak and kidney. I had some veggies and salad.

Phoned K to let him know all was well. John phoned daughter R. She is waiting to hear if she got into the course at Melbourne Uni that she wants to do. There is much demand for it, and time is running out.

February 7, 2017
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1999 Travels January 28

THURSDAY 28 JANUARY STANTHORPE TO EVANS HEAD 259kms

We did not worry about setting the alarm for this morning, to get us up. Even so, we were ready to go by 9am! Are we good, or what?

Took the video back, checked a final time at the PO, in case there was mail, posted postcards that I’d been carrying around for a while.

We followed the New England Highway south to Tenterfield, then took the Bruxner Highway east, down to Casino. We did not spend any time looking at the places we passed through – will have to come back and explore another time.

The road down to Casino was narrower than the New England Highway, was winding, and hilly in places, but was alright, considering that it was coming down the Great Divide. It was much better than I’d dared hope for when planning that route. It was very pretty, too, through bushland, mostly, to begin with. The road seemed to follow valleys through the range – with a drop on my side! But it was only about fifty kms from Tenterfield that the country began to open up into wider valleys and there was more farming country. It continued to be bendy in parts and a bit up and down.

At Tabulum, we crossed the Clarence River on a long, single lane old bridge. The country soon became lush and green.

We are back in NSW again, of course. We will be away from Qld for a while, now; not sure when we will be back. It has been a varied and fascinating nine months in Qld – all I hoped for, and more.

We are back in the distinctive Northern Rivers region – mostly floodplains and wide, sluggish rivers, not far below their banks.

We ate our sandwich lunch at Casino, in a small park by the Richmond River edge, but could not see the river due to undergrowth. Several quite big, ferocious-looking “dragons” – lizards – came out of the bushes looking to scavenge under the picnic table.

We followed the Richmond River down through Coraki to Woodburn, and hence to Evans Head. Along the river, it was all cows and crops – lush country.

We booked into the Silver Sands Caravan Park. It is huge – over 500 sites! It is Council owned and there are only half a dozen sites with slabs. We chose one of the two on offer – it is not far from an amenities block, so we are happy enough. It is only costing us $65.50 a week, which is great.

I got to pat a really laid-back Burmese cat, asleep in the In Tray at Reception!

At the site, we have a little tree at our side outlook, and cabins behind us that I do not think will be too heavily populated now that school holidays are over.

It was about 3pm when we arrived. We “lost” an hour on the way due to NSW having Daylight Saving. So the driving part of the day took us about four and a half hours.

It teemed rain as we were setting up, and we got wet to the skin. It rained on and off for the rest of the day.

After setting up, John went to the Bowls Club – naturally! Not only does Evans Head have one of these, but it is right next door – and huge. Bliss for him. He booked in for a game tomorrow – might as well start as he means to continue!

Apart from that, we did not go anywhere, due to the rain.

When I went for a shower, found out we had to put 20cents in a slot to get hot showers – this is the first time we have encountered this, on this trip. I had to go back to the van to get money. But, overall, the costs here are reasonable and well within budget, and we can be quite comfortable, I think.

The TV reception is not ideal. It does me fine, but John is a bit twitchy about it. We seem to get most channels.

Tea was steak and kidney and dumplings.

We can hear the sea at night – haven’t seen it yet!

It is milder here – do not need the doona at night.

01-28-1999 to evans head.JPG

February 7, 2017
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1999 Travels January 27

WEDNESDAY 27 JANUARY STANTHORPE

I did the washing as soon as I’d gotten up. A lot of the backpackers seem to have gone, and the rest must be working, so for once it was possible to get near the washing machines! We had a lot piled up, too, so it took a while to do.

Then we went and did a week’s grocery shop, as we are not sure what shops there will be at Evans Head, which we decided is our next destination. Now that the holiday period is over, we are heading back to the coast! Have decided not to hang around, waiting for possible work – I am very pleased about that!

We ate the last of the ham today, in our lunch sandwiches. I have had quite enough ham for the time being, thank you!

John went off to bowls at 1.30 – to find that it had started at 1pm! He came back via the video shop, with a new film.

Made a quick decision to go back to Bald Rock. For once, I win!

Setting out

There, we walked the same circuit as last time. We were able to see into the distance, which made it much more interesting. The walk was still strenuous, but well worth the effort, and was good exercise. We did the 2.5km section to the top in 45 minutes – pretty good going, uphill!

Almost at the top

The views from the top were excellent – out across Girraween, south across Little Bald Rock, to Tenterfield and beyond. The best outlook was to the north – to Cunninghams Gap and the Mt Lindesay area – big blue mountains.

On the summit of Bald Rock – with a clear view all round

01-27-1999 from Bald Rock nth to Cunninghams Gap.jpg

Looking towards Cunninghams Gap from Bald Rock summit

Do I look like I enjoy climbing mountains?

We came down the steep slope again, and once more had no problems with this.

Going down. The stick makes a difference.

It was a great walk. We both felt good after it, even though John was still disappointed about his bowls.

Now we do not need to stay the extra day we thought we’d need, to come back here. So when we got back, after getting in the washing, took down the annexe and did the usual preliminary packing up. Also got fuel on the way back – 65cpl.

It was too late to cook the steak and kidney I’d planned, so John suggested Red Rooster take away instead. He went to get chicken and chips, and came back with a full chook, roast potatoes, peas and gravy. I thought it was only so-so. However, we do have enough chicken left for filling for tomorrow’s sandwiches.

Today’s drive was 92kms.

Watched The Saint video. Having it means we can’t leave until at least 9am tomorrow, when the video shop opens, so we will not be getting up too early.

February 7, 2017
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1999 Travels January 26

TUESDAY 26 JANUARY STANTHORPE

Today, it is a year since John’s official resignation from the Education Department. He slept till about 10am. So good not to have to get up early, and to alarms!

After a late breakfast, we went to practice bowls. This dragged on much longer than I wanted, until 2pm, by which time it was too late for a proper lunch, or to do anything much with the rest of the day. My plan had been to go back to Girraween or Bald Rock, for a walk!

John watched cricket on TV.

I went for a walk around the streets.

Tea was soup, omelette with ham, cheese and onion.

February 4, 2017
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1999 Travels January 25

MONDAY 25 JANUARY STANTHORPE

We woke to a grey, slightly chilly morning. Despite that, decided to stick to the plan we made yesterday – to go to Boonoo Boonoo National Park (pronounced bunna boo-noo).

To get there, took the Amosfield Road out of Stanthorpe, which took us across the border into NSW. It is nine months since we have been in NSW! Then followed the Mount Lindesay Road south – a fairly narrow back road. Took the signed road to the Falls – 14kms of unsealed road, not too bad.

Then we walked to the Falls – not far. They are very long, over a series of drops and then the water goes down into a gorge that is the upper Clarence River system. There was quite a bit of water coming over.

We then walked to a pool above the Falls – Top Pool. People swim there, but today’s weather made it not a tempting idea. It is pretty, amongst big granite boulders.

01-25-1999 above Boonoo Boonoo Falls.jpg

The Top Pool at the Falls

Whilst walking alongside the creek, I disturbed an eel that was rock-hopping. I thought it was a snake, at first – got a big fright.

We ate our picnic lunch there, where there are a few fairly ordinary camp spots. Apparently, management plans may ban camping here, in favour of the Cypress camp area, which we passed on the way in.

Did some bird spotting here – found a dusky wood swallow, spotted pardalote, a crested baza hawk, and a plum headed finch.

On the way back out – retracing the same route – we took a short side track and visited Morgans Gully. It was worth the detour, with big rocks and pools in the creek. Unfortunately, the grey day meant no photos.

It was back on the Mount Lindesay Road for a short while, before taking the access road to Bald Rock National Park, also in NSW, but as the crow flies, not far from Girraween.

Bald Rock is the largest granite rock in Australia. Its top is about 1300 metres above sea level.

Unfortunately, it was 4.15 when we commenced the walk up Bald Rock – too late, really. We took the easier, 2.5km gradual track up to the top, a lovely walk that winds around, as opposed to going straight up the face of the rock. It may have been the easier track, but it was still hard work, going uphill.

Towards the top of Bald Rock, with drifting cloud obscuring the outlook

Spotted a Pacific Baza hawk – our fourth new bird for the day.

There was cloud drifting over the Rock, so the light was poor for photos – and for seeing any distance! We did come through some interesting canyon and balanced rock formations on the way to the summit.

At the top, signed the Visitors Book. There were no views, due to the cloud.

John decided – partly in view of how late it was – that we would take the steep track back, straight down the exposed rock face. I was rather reluctant, after the issues on The Pyramid the other day. It was getting on for 6pm and I was worried about maybe getting caught in the dark, if he couldn’t manage it and we had to backtrack.

In the event, it was much easier than on The Pyramid. Although steep, and testing on the knees and ankles, there were no exposed side drops, so we did it easily. It was much quicker. The loop walk as we did it, was 3.2kms.

Looking back up towards the top of Bald Rock, after we’d come down the steep face

There was no one else in the car park by the time we got there – too late, too cloudy.

It was still daylight by the time we’d driven back to Stanthorpe – just. John stopped to hire a video, on the way through town. Drove 146kms today.

Tea was soup and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches.

We watched The Horse Whisperer. An excellent film, though there were a couple of holes in the story, if one knows horses. The dance scene was memorable.

I would really like to go back and walk Bald Rock in clear weather.

February 4, 2017
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1999 Travels January 24

SUNDAY 24 JANUARY STANTHORPE

We got a fairly early start and went, briefly, to the markets next door – in the Showgrounds, before going to bowls. The markets were pretty tatty – more like a poor garage sale. We just looked and didn’t buy anything. There was not the fresh produce I’d hoped to find there.

Bowls was alright. The people were friendly. We played triples. John was skip, with another lady and me. We won quite well. John played an excellent game. I was a bit happier with my game than I’d been in Toowoomba.

The game was followed by several rounds of drinks, so we were a bit sleepy in the afternoon!

I began drying some pears I’d bought at a stall. They went brown – I need lots of lemon, or a syrup bath, which is too complex to do here. So, at this stage, that is a failed experiment.

John watched cricket on TV.

There was quite a cloud build up through the afternoon, then some heavy rain for a while.

Tea was soup, ham, potato and salad.

February 4, 2017
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1999 Travels January 23

SATURDAY 23 JANUARY STANTHORPE

After breakfast, we went for a drive around the Pozieres/Amiens Roads areas, calling in at some farms with big packing sheds and signs of life, to see if there was work. There wasn’t. Some already have their full complement of workers; most say they are not starting for another couple of weeks.

Back at camp, chatted with the new people behind us. They do quite a bit of gemstone fossicking, and have been to Rubyvale and O’Briens Creek. The man gave us a handful of garnets someone had given him, that came from up Cloncurry way. There may even be the odd cutter amongst them. They are nice people.

After lunch, John went to bowls.

I read the Saturday papers. Did some knitting, finishing off three of the little jumpers and jackets that had needed sewing up and bands done. Quite often, I like to knit as we are driving distances – it helps me stay awake! There is no point in making things for John and me – we have ample clothing. So I decided that baby and young children’s items were manageable, not needing too much wool – and can be stored away for if there are grandchildren, further down the track. I now have four such items completed.

John returned happy with his bowling. He wants us to play in the morning!

Tea was soup, the leftover ham and cheese bake, which was alright cold. The fresh nectarines are wonderful.

We have decided to extend our stay here for a few extra days, to see if any work eventuates, and also because there are still places we want to see – well, I want to see.