This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels October 22

THURSDAY 22 OCTOBER     FORSAYTH

We had a quiet day in the heat.

John showed Nellie his Quicken computer program, because she was interested in it. He has realised that he has a virus in his laptop which affects scrolling. He is sure he got it from the Mt Surprise school – it was probably unwise to be transferring discs between their system and his.

During the morning John saw a snake coming across the grounds – he was alerted to it by birds swooping and making a noise. Bruce came and killed it – a red bellied black snake, about a metre long. Later in the day, Nellie found a dead yellow bellied brown snake near the house and thinks the dog may have killed it. She said they have had a lot of snakes this year – already!

When it cooled, later in the day, we went walking around town. In the recreation area, took a photo of an ant hill decorated as a cricketer. It kind of sums up this place!

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Forsayth recreation ground

Found out that the big Kidston gold mine, of which we have heard, is SE of here.

In the late afternoon, packed up the awning and took down the shadecloth that John had put up at the back of the van to screen it from the sun.

During the day, John investigated the possible agate rocks we’d brought back yesterday – they were not agates!

Cloud built up during the afternoon. We are becoming used to this being almost a daily event. We sat outside, from about 6pm, and watched the clouds build – it was a good, dramatic show. Bruce claimed that they were “empty” clouds – but there was thunder, lightning and then it rained from about 7pm on. The power went out for nearly two hours. It is great to have our independent 12v lights on such occasions.

The rain cooled the evening down, somewhat. But it brought out lots of huge cane toads, from somewhere.

We are the only ones in the caravan park tonight. The previous nights we have had couples next to us, and a group of railway workers nearby, but the railway men have gone to Karumba for a few days and the other campers have moved on. So it is very quiet here. Nellie has three guests in the home stay, from the train – and she was cooking a dinner of soup, roast chook and apple pie for them. In this heat!

Had I still been in my old job, tonight I would have been dealing with Year 12 students intent on marking their last day of classes – I am SO glad to be here in downtown Forsayth instead!


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1998 Travels October 21

WEDNESDAY 21 OCTOBER     FORSAYTH

We got up early. At 8am it was already hot, with a clear blue sky.

We left at 9am to drive to Cobbold Gorge, some 40kms away. The unsealed road was alright – we could have taken the van out there, had we wished. The way travelled through more of the interesting hill country of these parts. We noted that trees are beginning to green up – a sign of the onset of the wet season?

Cobbold Gorge is on the large Robin Hood Station. They have only had the tourist venture going for three years. The small camp area is in a little valley – it would have been alright to stay at. However, I think we are better off, in the current heat, at Forsayth, where we can run the air con from the town power.

We paid $25 each for the tour and were driven in a 4WD Toyota, across the wide and dry Robertson River, to a waterhole that is where the gorge creek joins the river. There, we walked a short distance and got into a boat.

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Robertson River, on the way to the Gorge – which is where the vegetation is thick and dark green

The tour uses an electric powered boat, as being much more environmentally friendly than a fuel motor. So we glided silently and slowly through this absolutely unique feature.

The gorge has been formed in sandstone rock by the heavy rains and floods cutting down through faults in the sandstone. The gorge is unusually narrow – not much wider than the boat, in parts – and quite deep. The original sandstone must have been quite heavily faulted, because the gorge twists and turns.

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Heading into the gorge

 

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The way becomes much more narrow

We travelled along for about 600 metres. There were many butterflies in the relative cool of the gorge, and fish – archer fish and black fish – in the water. At one point, we saw archer fish squirting water up onto the red gorge wall, trying to knock down insects. Saw a splash as a little fresh water crocodile exited the scene.

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The dark brown lines are where an archer fish spat at an insect on the rock wall

The colours of the gorge walls, the rock formations, and the different plays of light on these, were beautiful, as was the contrast of the occasional green plants growing where they had been able to establish. The reflections in the water of the creek in the gorge were wonderful.

 

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We loved the reflections, different rock colours and contrast of plants

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In places, the rocks and reflections gave a monochromatic effect

Our guide said that there are at least fifty other gorges out there on the property, but no one knows much about them – yet.

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More interesting reflections

One of the notable features about Cobbold Gorge was that, even at this end of the Dry season, there was still water in it. I guess there must be springs and soaks in the sandstone to account for that, along with the depth of the channels at the base of the gorge.

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I see the face of some prehistoric monster here

The boat trip was over too soon. It was certainly worth the money. Back at the office area, we chatted for a while with the young couple who have been hired to run the campground operation.

As we were driving back towards Forsayth, on the spur of the moment, since we were going past the turn off, took the road to the south, to Agate Creek. The road continued to be alright, looking like it had been fairly recently bladed.

We knew of Agate Creek as an official fossicking area where one could find agates (obviously) and had seen some excellent specimens of these at the Home Stay office. As with all the other gemstone things, hunting for these was not something we’d ever done before, and we knew little of the technicalities.

We must have driven about 50kms from the corner with the Cobbold Gorge Road before coming to a sign and a camping area that is the start of the fossicking area. Ate our lunch there.

Went up Black Soil Creek – according to the map at the entrance to the fossick area. We were not really sure what to do to find agate. It is basically a rock core, but we don’t know what those rocks look like on the outside, or where agate containing rocks might be found. There did seem to be some agate chips lying around, where we went, so we dug for a while in the creek bank and pulled out some rocks that might be ok? John was happy with what he found.

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In the Agate Creek valley

We drove further into the field and spent a short time at Crystal Hill, doing the same things. We did not see any other people around, which was not surprising, given the heat at this time of the year.

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At Agate Creek, trying to look like we might know what we are doing

Drove along the track to its end at the Agate Creek Safari Camp. It was closed and the people gone. We found out later that the lady lease holder wants to sell it for $5000, but her partner doesn’t want to sell. John was impulsively attracted to the idea of buying it – I said NO WAY!

It was a very hot day but we felt alright in it – was a dry heat.

We got back to Forsayth about 6pm. We had driven 191kms.

Heard on the news that nearby Georgetown was the hottest place in Qld today, at 40 degrees!

Tea was steak, potato, beans.

After tea, I phoned K to ask him to send us the next batch of mail to Atherton PO. We have now decided to venture no further west in this heat, but to head back to the Tablelands. It was good to hear that all is well at home – a place that seems increasingly distant – apart from some hanging plant pots that smashed in a high wind. Once that would have worried me……

The night seemed to be slightly cooler for sleeping, with an occasional hint of a breeze coming through the open window above my head.

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The terrain that we traversed to visit Cobbold Gorge and Agate Creek

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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1998 Travels October 20

TUESDAY 20 OCTOBER   MOUNT SURPRISE TO FORSAYTH   141kms

Pretty standard pack up. It has become quite routine. We did not put the weight distribution bars on, because we were going to be on an uneven dirt road, from Georgetown to Forsayth.

It was a hot drive to Forsayth, but at least the country side was not boring. We have not had the van on unsealed roads, to date, so this is the start of practice on same, for John. He did well, except that he went through one floodway a bit fast and bounced the van more than was good. It shook the cupboard contents up more than usual, and the front part of the hinged glass top on the stove came off and fell on the floor. It did not break, but put a little dent in the vinyl floor. Everything else was alright.

The Forsayth Home Stay and Van Park cost us $11 for a powered site. We set up under the big shadecloth roof provided for the site – a good idea and much needed.

The town water supply is not potable – it has heavy metals/arsenic in it. There is a rain water tank provided for park patrons. I suppose that means one should keep their mouth shut when showering!

The Home Stay and Van Park is for sale. The home stay can accommodate up to 20, they say, in six rooms! They often have 12 staying. They have just begun developing the van park part – it seems to have some potential – and they also have the next door block. But it seems to us that tourist business here is dependent on the Savannah Lander rail passengers, and tourists who want to visit nearby Cobbold Gorge, which is now developing its own camp ground. Forsayth is off any main tourist route – though it may become more attractive if the road from Georgetown was sealed.

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The outlook from the caravan park at Forsayth

We had a late lunch.

The afternoon became really hot and then quite hazy – there are fires around, apparently.

As it got slightly cooler in the late afternoon, we walked into what seemed to be more the centre of the township. I thought Mt Surprise was rather a rustic village but this is more so. There are no shops! It has a pub. The Post Office is in a house. But there is a little hospital, and of course, the train station. There is a strange assortment of houses, rather spread about, including a couple of interesting older ones.

The town has First to Ninth Avenues, straggling off into the dead grass. This scale is a relic of the grander mining days – initially gold in the 1870’s, and then copper, from the 1890’s. Apparently the original settlement was on the other side of the little Delaney River that is by the town, but was moved when the railway reached here in the early 1900’s.

At one stage, it was planned that the railway would go further west and link up with what is now the Gulflander Railway, that ends at Croydon, but that never happened. Because of being the rail terminus, Forsayth continued its existence as the rail head for transport further west. Eventually, of course, road transport and travel bypassed it.

About 100 people live here now, though with the renewed growth of mining in the area over the last decade or so, it may grow a bit more.

There seemed to be a lot of barking dogs about – a rather motley lot. We saw a big flock of red-tailed cockatoos in trees and on power lines. There are lots of birds at the van park, including a very musical butcher bird.

We drove out to Castle Rock, following a mud map given to us by Nellie, the owner. There were some others driving out that way, too, to see the sunset from that vantage point.

The sunset was “different”, due to lots of smoke about. Very red. It was worth the drive and the little scramble to the top. We drove past a newly burning area on the way to the Rock.

The heat had reduced both our appetites, so I made some salad for John; I had some tinned apricots and he had watermelon that we’d bought in Georgetown, when we stopped at a store to buy a couple of cold drinks.

There is some TV here – we get two channels, which is one more than in Mt Surprise!

We had the air con on during tea and that cooled the van sufficiently for sleep, but we had a rather restless night as it stayed hot throughout. Unfortunately, the air con is far too noisy inside the van to keep it on after bedtime.

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1998 Travels October 19

MONDAY 19 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Another hot day.

John spent time on the computer. I read and did crosswords.

I made savoury scones for lunch, which were delicious. We discovered by experience when first here, that the frozen bread from the store is awful. It must be really stale before they freeze it. Hence my need to find alternatives.

Joe showed us a book his father had prepared, of local flora, including historical quotes about  same, and aboriginal uses of them. Apparently this family is a well-known local one, especially in the realm of plant expertise. John found out that Jo and Joe had grown most of the plants that have been planted around the park. There must be thousands of dollars worth of these; it is going to be an absolute oasis when the plants mature. We really admire their enterprise.

We have had an excellent time during our two weeks at Bedrock Village, but have decided it is time to move on. I wonder how many travellers have ever spent as long at Mt Surprise?

With travel in mind, John took Truck to refuel – 76cpl.

Had a final, lovely swim in the afternoon. Took down the awning after the worst of the sun had gone.

Tea was fish and chips bought from the pub – $10 and they were great.

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Our explorations around Mt Surprise


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1998 Travels October 18

SUNDAY 18 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

It was another hot day.

After breakfast, we shut ourselves in the van, with the air con going, and watched “Titanic” – the video that John had hired to watch last night. It was a good film. The two kids came by to visit and we had to explain why we were watching the TV at this time of day!

Then John went with Jo to the school. He has been working on a design for a brochure, for the caravan park, as they do not yet have one. They went to print what he has done, but it wouldn’t work, as the school computer does not have a compatible Word program. So he gave Jo the discs with what he has done – they may be useful in the future.

Just lazed about in the afternoon, in the heat, but managed to walk to the store to return the video. Had a swim.

Tea was sweet and sour pork with rice.

Since the rain, we have cane toads around, at night. Yuk.

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I am a cane toad!


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1998 Travels October 17

SATURDAY 17 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

Today was hot again. The respite after rain does not last long.

We lazed about. John spent much of the day on the computer, but drove up to the store to hire a video to watch tonight.

I did some embroidery, sitting outside in the shade of the van and the little trees nearby.

I made Indian roti for lunch – yummy.

Later in the afternoon, we took Jo and Joe’s young son with us for a walk to the shops. He likes to mix with the visitors

Tea was steak, onions, baked potato and coleslaw.

John “died” over tea – fell asleep while he was eating! Two nights of staying up till dawn playing KKND have taken their toll – computer game lag! He went straight to bed. I read for a while.

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Our camp  at Bedrock Village – with stormy skies


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1998 Travels October 16

FRIDAY 16 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

On Joe’s advice – again – we were going to Einasleigh today. I packed some Ryvita, vegemite and cheese for a picnic lunch. Joe told us that the unsealed road that goes to Einasleigh from  west of Mt Surprise, was worth taking.

It was a very attractive drive, in parts parallel with the rugged Newcastle Range. There were several dry creek fords. It was more of a track than a road and not one for fast travel. We did not meet any other traffic on this route. At one point, we intersected with the railway line that carries the Savannahlander train – it goes through Einasleigh on the way to Forsayth. It was about 90kms to Einasleigh.

As we drove, could see storm clouds building to the south and hoped there would not be sudden heavy rain while we were on this road!

Einasleigh was really interesting. The Copperfield River goes through a small gorge, where it has cut a down a fissure in the basalt that formed from a lava flow. These parts of northern Queensland are much more volcanic than I knew. The basalt here is very dark and the Copperfield Gorge looks quite sinister to me.

 

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Copperfield Gorge with the rail bridge in the background

As is indicated by the name Copperfield River, the town grew due to copper mining here in the late 1800’s; there was also copper mining around Forsayth to the west. Clearly, there is much mineralization in these parts – was some tin mining around O’Briens Creek, there’s the topaz, aquamarine and similar gemstones now; copper; the large Kidston gold mine is east of here. The Einasleigh River – named by the Jardines on their trek north to the Cape in the 1860’s – and the Copperfield join at the township.

The railway was built by the Chillagoe Copper Company to transport copper from around Forsayth and here. It eventually became government owned. There is a long rail bridge over the Einasleigh River. It would look quite spectacular in a flood.

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The rail line and bridge at Einasleigh

The road we came in on crosses the river via a ford that would flood after big rains.

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The road crossing of the Einasleigh River at the town

The “town” itself was quite surreal – probably not helped by the dark, stormy skies. It is in a great setting amongst photogenic hills. There was an eerie, derelict house just across the bridge.

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Stephen King comes to Einasleigh!

The hotel stands by itself, with a collapsed building next to it that was once the dance hall, or “leaning hall”. It leaned too far! The walls have collapsed but the roof is intact, complete with fascia, on the ground. There was only one vehicle parked in front of the hotel – with its bonnet up.

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Einasleigh central: the hotel and the collapsed leaning hall on this side of it

We ate our lunch in a modern picnic shelter overlooking the Gorge. The huge, swirling clouds were making thunder and lightning and then we had a heavy but short deluge. While having lunch, we were adopted by a very scared blue heeler dog that obviously thought we were its saviours from the elements.

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Welcome shelter for lunch in the rain

Eventually, we took refuge at the pub, complete with dog, who wasn’t going to be left. The two people at the pub (publican and one patron) knew who she was and undertook to return her home.

The beer was in a large chest freezer, behind the bar. There was none on tap. We had a beer each, as a courtesy for the help with the dog. $3 per can. Being independent tourists in Einasleigh seemed to make us some kind of objects of curiosity.

We walked around a bit – the land of the township is rather bare, and rocky, almost blasted-looking.  We decided that being here was very like living inside the pages of a Stephen King novel!

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Copperfield River and rail bridge – and dark stormy skies threatening

The rainstorm moved off to the north – making us somewhat concerned about our camp! We decided not to risk the narrow, dirt road back to Mt Surprise, with its creek crossings, so kept going west, to Forsayth, on a sealed road. This part of our drive was very scenic, with rugged ranges and distant vistas.

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A scary road sign, between Einasleigh and Forsayth

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Distant ranges seen from the Forsayth road

Had a quick look round Forsayth, with a view to maybe staying there. The van facility at the Forsayth home stay looked adequate.

Turned north for Georgetown – back onto gravel road, rather corrugated in parts. Georgetown had a few shops and a huge, dry river crossing – the Etheridge.

It was back onto the single width bitumen to Mt Surprise. We saw a bustard walking beside the road – and another as road kill. Scenes like that make me so sad – not something I will ever get used to.

Back at the van, the storm had obviously passed this way. The annexe roof had been blown off its poles – probably due to the shade cloth hanging from them too. There was red mud everywhere. The van was mostly dry inside. Given the hot weather this morning, I had not shut up all the windows before we left. There had been a little rain come in the window at the head of the bed, and some of my underwear in the cupboard beneath it was damp. Lesson: do not go out in storm season and leave windows open! We were lucky, this time – it was quite a storm and a lot of rain was dumped in a short time.

The storm certainly cooled the air, which made for a pleasant late afternoon and evening.

Tea was dim sims that I “steamed” in an enamel pie plate in the electric frypan with water in and lid on – and fries.

We drove 296kms on today’s circuit. A great day.

John sat up till the early hours playing computer game.


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1998 Travels October 15

THURSDAY 15 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We had a “home” day today. Slept in a bit. It was a very hot day.

I did washing and cleaned the van – both very much overdue! There is not a proper laundry here, yet. Just a tub and machine at one end of the recreation room which is another demountable building. But adequate, and there are good clothes lines. My washing soon dried.

John answered business letters and the like.

The groceries arrived on the truck from Coles in Atherton. We have fresh fruit and vegies again! They cost $90 – $12 of which was packing and freight. I was pleased to have been able to get my order along with Jo’s, rather than just having to hope the store had what I wanted – and pay their mark up too.

We went swimming a couple of times through the day.

The Savannahlander train came through – it only had one carriage this week.

When he came home from school, the young son of Jo and Joe took us for a walk to the creek that is not far from the caravan area. He told us about different plants and showed us the creek. It did not have much water in it now, but would be really pretty at a different time of year. I think he could well become a guide, like his dad was – he did a great job.

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A bustard in the bush by the creek

Tea was sausages, onions and egg.

John played his computer game till 4.30am!


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1998 Travels October 14

WEDNESDAY 14 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We got up fairly early again, to go back out to O’Briens Creek.

On the way, stopped in the village for fuel – 76cpl – and a big block of chocolate, to take out to Sam in appreciation of his help.

We went straight to Sam’s to give him the gift, before it got too melty – the day was heating up.

Then called briefly at Diggers Rest. Sam had suggested we drive up to Blue Hills, to the north, and try fossicking up there. We double checked the route, on our mud map, with Gordon, then set off.

The track was the roughest one we’d encountered in our time out here, with a couple of very rough jump ups. I walked the worst – on the pretext of taking photos of Truck meeting the challenge!  Which it and John did beautifully. There was an extensive view to the south from the top of the second jump up – can see how the place got its name as we were quite high up.

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The first jump-up on the track to Blue Hills

As we’d been told, there was a little sign by the road that indicated we’d reached the Blue Hills area. It was about 5 or 6 kms from Diggers Rest. As it was just sitting propped up by a rock at the road side, John picked it up for a photo shot.

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Blue Hills found! Area partially burnt

It was different to the country where we’d fossicked, down below. That was mostly centred around the creek. Up top it was much harder to tell where to look for topaz. There were areas of quartz pebbles and small stones in places scattered across the flat ground, and  little creek channels. But there was nowhere obvious that was diggings. The big bushfire had burnt across here, so at least there was fairly open ground.

John specked around in the areas of the little creek gullies.  As I really didn’t know where to look,  and got a bit bored after a while, I wandered off to look at the scenery and take photos. But still kept my eyes on the ground. In an area of quartz wash on the surface, by a burnt bush trunk, I found three big, clear pieces of what I thought were quartz and pocketed them. Showed John when I wandered back near him – he admired their size and we thought they were worth hanging on to.

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The are where we fossicked at Blue Hills

It became very hot in the exposed, rocky area and so we called it quits, after having lunch. Going back down the jump ups was a little fearsome!

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Looking down from the top of the second jump-up – towards the south

Went back to Diggers Rest to return our sieve to Gordon, as we think we’ve done enough fossicking. I showed him the pieces of quartz I found. Was astounded when he said they were blue topaz! The best! Three great big chunks of same. What a fluke. I told him how I’d just found them sitting on the top of the ground. We concluded that they must have been under a thick bush, that got burnt in the recent fire, thus exposing them. You can be in the right place at the right time……What a good way to end this little adventure.

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O’Briens Creek fossicking area. Blue Hills area is right up at the top of map

Back at camp, there were neighbours in the next site, with quite a big van. It seemed a bit saggy at each end. They are also planning long term travel – in their case, ten years or more. Right now, I’m aiming for five or six years for us. They went out in the late afternoon to fossick.

I made curried tuna and rice for tea, and we opened a tin of apricots.

It was a very hot and still night.


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1998 Travels October 13

TUESDAY 13 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We had another early start today. Joe had arranged for us to meet a friend of his who brings his children into town to school. We would then follow Tom back to his property White Water, east of here, on the main road. There are features on the property they think will interest us.

About 25kms out of town, we turned north, onto a station track. Tom showed us the area of swamp and springs where Fossil Brook Creek begins. This flows NW for quite a way before joining the Lynd River and ultimately the Mitchell, which flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria.

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Fossil Brook Creek near its source in springs on White Water

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There is a lot of water coming from the springs, especially given the time of year

He also showed us a very large strangler fig tree nearby, where they believe that Leichardt’s party camped. A big old cook pot was found there. It is near the permanent water. The branches of the tree spread out over a large area. We could envisage it as a great place for a base camp, while some of the party scouted ahead. All that shade, and quite cool under there.

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Old strangler fig that may have been a camping place for explorers

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Fig tree detail – the roots look like cupped hands

This is of particular interest for John because his Great Great Uncle was John Roper, who accompanied Leichardt on this expedition – and for whom the Roper River and Roper Bar, in the NT,  are named.

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John by the old fig tree where his uncle may have camped

Tom left us to explore around the area, warning us not to hang around out there if it rained, because the soils were really slippery black and red ones. It was a reasonable warning, because the skies were quite cloudy.

The Fossil Brook Creek was really pretty and very photogenic. We spent a couple of hours wandering about, bird spotting and exploring on foot along the creek. It was obvious that the vegetation along the edges of these permanently flowing, spring-fed streams was very different to that of the drier surrounding country. There was pandanus and the like growing.

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Fossil Brook Creek with stands of pandanus growing – a contrast with the surrounding country

It was wonderful to be out there on our own, knowing this was not a place where tourists or travellers were likely to come. We felt quite privileged.

During the morning there was steady cloud build up, and then some thunder. Then it started to rain – quite heavily – and we drove out, immediately. It would have been too embarrassing to get bogged on the track and have to go to Tom for help, after he’d gone out of his way to bring us out here.

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Threatening storm clouds building up

After we left the property, drove back towards Mt Surprise for a way, then turned north on the Springfield Road, to try to find Fossil Brook Creek further down its course. But my map was wrong and the creek did not cross the road, that we could find, in the distance indicated. So we turned around and went back to camp.

There were some more heavy, short, rain showers as we drove.

Back at camp, there had been hardly any rain! It was cooler, though, and quite windy.

We had driven 131kms on our little expedition.

We had a very late lunch.

The cloud lightened during the afternoon – the really heavy black thunder clouds went away.

John had a sleep during the afternoon.

We heard later that Mt Garnet, to the NE, got 4 inches of rain today – the people at the store said that water was flowing through the Norwestgate Caravan Park there!

This weather is not what we envisaged when we made our plans to come out this way, but it is exciting and a change from the uniformity of the dry season that we have had for months.

I cooked smoked fish for tea, with white sauce.

We have already been here for over a week and we are loving it. Great place. Great people.