This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels February 13

FRIDAY 13 FEBRUARY   MINJAH TO TORQUAY   227kms

We left the farm at 10am, after an absolutely great visit.

I am not all that keen about travelling on a Friday 13th, but so be it. I have had some distinctly disastrous days on this date! My apprehension proved to have some grounds when, just out of Caramut,  a 4WD passed us with the lady passenger waving frantically out of her window at us. We pulled over to see what she had been waving about – and discovered that I had left the van window at the head of our bed (the road side) somewhat open. We were probably lucky not to have gone too far or done any damage. I shut and clipped it firmly, and resolved never to make that mistake again.

We drove to Torquay via Mortlake, Camperdown and Colac, and almost into Geelong. It was an enjoyable drive on a pleasantly warm day. John’s leg was still hurting, though.

We went into the Zeally Bay Caravan Park, booking for a week for $95. It seemed a pleasant enough park, on the Esplanade. Certainly a great improvement on the last park!

We set up with no problems backing  onto our site, and set up relatively easily. We are definitely getting better at this.

Lunch was late, after all that.

John wanted to check out the Torquay Bowls Club, of course. As a result, we are playing on Sunday.

We drove around Torquay, a little. I have not previously spent any time here, at all, so it is new ground. This was one of the reasons for choosing to end this Western District segment here.

Drove into Geelong, only 20kms away. John wanted to find a hardware store. When it came time to park and walk to one, he decided his leg was too sore, so we turned round and came back to camp. This is the longest drive he has done, to date, and because we were towing, there was a lot more clutch work for the leg.

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Our two day drive from Portland to Torquay

John napped for two hours, then we drove around and found a fish and chip shop to buy our tea.

Torquay seems a good place for a base. The town looks pleasant. The sea looks great – to view, not to go into! It is an easy run to Geelong when we need to go there.

I should explain the comment about the sea. Some years ago, a marine biologist friend commented that she knew too much about what lives in the sea, to ever go swimming in it. Who am I to argue? I paddle, and confine swimming to proper pools.


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1998 Travels February 12

THURSDAY 12 FEBRUARY   PORTLAND TO MINJAH   148kms

It was a pleasantly warm day today, but increasingly windy.

We had a quicker pack up this time – yesterday’s preparation made a real difference. Hitching up was easy. We were away from the park just after 9am.

Followed the Princes Highway to Warrnambool. We had to go to the Post Office there because R had posted a letter to John, c/o there, instead of sending it via home. John found a place to park the rig not too far away, and I walked to the PO and collected the letter.

John stayed in Truck because his leg was hurting a lot. When we were hitching up, he pushed the van to line it up better – and he shouldn’t have.

We had to back track a short way, then took the Caramut road north. It was a pleasant drive through the farming country, to E and A’s farm at Minjah, a bit south of Caramut.

Was great to see E and A again, after so many years. They are still very sprightly, at ages 69 and 70, though A needs a knee reconstruction – the toll of a farming life.

They had us park in front of the machinery shed, where we could plug in our power lead. Nice and level, too.

We had great meals and indulged in much travel talk. John and A got on really well – they have some similar traits! I did not realize that they had done so much travel – they have been to all the places we want to see, and then some. Cape York, the Gibb River Road, the Gulf Track, Tanami, Canning Stock Route, and so on. A son took over the running of the farm, twelve years ago and this has enabled the travel. They have a Disco and camper trailer now.

They have not as yet done the Simpson Desert crossing, which we are tentatively looking at for next year, so we discussed the possibility of joining up with them and doing that together. I would enjoy that. We will keep in touch.

It was quite a late night – we just did not run out of things to talk about.


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1998 Travels February 11

WEDNESDAY 11 FEBRUARY     PORTLAND

Pleasant day, not too hot.

We did a quick trip to the shops in the morning, for a few supplies and to buy some wine and chocolates to take to E and A’s tomorrow.

After an early lunch John went off to bowls. He enjoyed the game – needed a bowls fix. He played in two winning games, lost one – and got into an argument about whether ABT 2000 bowls – which he has – are “cheat’s bowls”!

I did a little packing up.

The drilling rig left during the afternoon – I just caught a glimpse of it disappearing over the horizon. Someone at bowls told John it was drilling out behind Lady Julia Percy Island, exploring for oil.

When John got back from bowls, he wanted to go fish at Narrawong, so we drove there. He tried to catch some of the bait fish in the river, and sent me off with the bait pump to the beach to get bait. I don’t really know much about doing this and couldn’t find any signs of anything to try pumping – but it was a lovely walk on the beach!

John eventually gave up and we went back to the van for tea. While I was cooking this, John packed the roof rack.

Tea – late again – was mince chow mein, at John’s request,  made with packet soup, with rice and then strawberries.

We took down the awning and packed it away.

John had bought diesel on the way home from bowls –  69cpl.


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1998 Travels February 10

TUESDAY 10 FEBRUARY     PORTLAND

This morning, the drilling rig has gone – totally disappeared! I feel really cheated not to have seen it go. I wonder if they lay it down flat somehow, or it sails off standing upright?

This caravan park does not get any cleaner or more pleasant! The cleaning of the amenities is very sketchy. The owners’ feral son is quite an unpleasant child of maybe ten years old. He rides his bike around ferociously and with disregard for people. On Saturday night he was actually driving a car around the park – quite dangerous. I think he reflects his father’s attitude to the customers!

We activated the bikes for the first time here and rode east to Narrawong, which was a very enjoyable  ride along back roads with little traffic. Narrawong village looks quite pleasant, and the caravan park there much more pleasant than anything at Portland. It is by the sea and a sandy beach, and abuts the little Surrey River, where it flows into the ocean. John could see little whiting in the Surrey River – he sees them as bait fish! There is a sandbar across the river mouth that is keeping them in there. Next time we are in these parts, we will definitely stay here!

We cycled a total of 22kms – a fair workout.

After lunch, drove into Portland and went around to the docks, where we watched a fishing trawler unloading its catch into boxes of ice in a semi-trailer. Bound for the Melbourne fish markets, one presumes.

Drove out on the Lee Breakwater, past people fishing. They did not seem to be catching anything. The Breakwater is the other arm that encloses the Marina, across from the main pier.

Portland was the place first settled by white men, in Victoria. It started as a camp for seal and whale hunters, from the early 1800’s, some of whom made permanent homes. In 1834, the Henty brothers sailed across from Van Diemans Land (Tasmania), with livestock, looking for good grazing country. Others soon followed and spread out into the fertile plains of the Western District. So Portland was a sea port, from the beginning of our history there. It is an easily accessed,  deep water port and some argue that it should be further developed for cargo shipping, to augment – maybe even eventually replace – Melbourne, where the relatively small Rip could limit access. Who knows?

We drove to have a look around the area where the Alcoa aluminium smelter has been built, in an industrial area out on Point Danger. From memory, there used to be a small airport there? The Alcoa plant looks quite clean and modern – very different to their plant at Point Henry in Geelong, which is old-style industrial grotty.

Came back to camp along Hanlon Parade and the Dutton Way. I remembered that, back in the mid 70’s, part of this road kind of fell into the sea, due to a landslip, and an engineer friend of mine was involved in coming up with a solution to prevent further disappearance of the coastline along here. I guess it worked, because the roads are still there!

The drilling rig is coming back! I could see it from the hill behind the docks, with two attendant tugs. It was moving very slowly, and wallowing. It feels a bit like an old friend has come back! By nightfall, it was back where it used to be and all lit up again.

Tea was steak and mushrooms, with strawberries after.

There was a huge full moon tonight. We could actually see it, so the cloud cover is much reduced.

Phoned my old friends E and A. We are invited to go there for lunch, tea, overnight stay, on Thursday. I look forward to seeing them again.


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1998 Travels February 9

MONDAY 9 FEBRUARY     PORTLAND

Bit more blue sky today, but not all that hot.

In the morning, we drove to the town centre, where we banked John’s cheque. Then to the Post Office, where we paid shire rates and the Truck rego. It is very pleasant not to have to worry about funds!

I put in a roll of film for processing and got it back after we’d done some grocery shopping, and filled in an hour. It was the Reala film used in my little automatic camera (as opposed to my “good” Pentax SLR one), and I was very pleased with the results.

After lunch drove back to Bridgewater, parked at the end of the road again, and did the walk to the Springs. This walk track goes north from the carpark for some 2.5kms and is now part of the Great South West walking track. When I used to come here in the late 70’s, the Springs were really only known to some of the locals, one of whom showed us. The then politician, Andrew Peacock, had just bought a property at Bridgewater and it was through this that we used to access the Springs – in fact, we showed him the feature.

The Cape area had long been used for cattle grazing, but that was not without its challenges. Farmers noticed that, if cattle were left on these pastures for any length of time, they went “coasty”, as it was called, and their growth, development and overall health were affected. So the Bridgewater pastures were used for short periods by farmers with properties further inland and the cattle moved around. Eventually more modern science established that the pastures were low in some essential trace elements, so the problem could be corrected.

On these limestone and sandy soils, fresh water supply could be a problem, too. The Springs are formed in an area of the coastal cliffs, where erosion has cut back the top limestone layers and exposed the underlying basalt, as rock shelves. Groundwater flows along the junction between the two types of rock and runs out as fresh water springs onto the basalt ledges. In places, where there were gas bubbles in the basalt, the water now pools in the resultant holes. The old time farmers built a ramp of rock and earth, down the eroded limestone cliff face, to allow cattle to get to the fresh water spring fed pools.

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John going down the old ramp to the basalt ledge

We used to walk to the Springs, when the children were young, and allow them to play in the pools. It was very spectacular, with the big waves of Discovery Bay breaking against the basalt cliff close by, but knowing we were quite safe up on the ledges. Back then, you had to know where to go, through the farm, navigating by fence lines and clumps of shrubs, as there were no markers to show where the top of the ramp was, and it was not visible until you were right on it. These days, one can walk there from the other direction.

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One of the fresh water pools, seen from the cliff top

Not far from the start of the walk, we came to the “petrified forest” formations. These formed, it is thought, when a lot of Moonah trees were buried by a moving dune. Rainwater seeping down formed sandstone crusts around the outside of the trunks, making them bigger than they were originally. At the same time, the interior wood was eaten away, making hollow sandstone tubes. So it is not petrified wood, as was once thought, just sandstone. But they are quite unique, and we spent a little time looking at these before resuming the walk. It is obvious to me that people have, over the years, removed or broken down many of the tube formations – they are nowhere near as impressive as they once were.

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One of the tubes in the “Petrified Forest”

There is no problem now in finding the old ramp to the Springs – it is signposted! We went down it onto the basalt platform.

The ramp is like it used to be, with a couple of tricky places, except the cliffs look a bit more fragile and there have been some small rock falls.

It could be a bit dangerous now and I suspect it may not be open much longer, unless some restoration work is done.

We followed the shelf around to the rock pools I knew. Just beyond these, to the south, was a place we called the Slippery Fall – where the shelf is narrow and the water flowing from a spring has formed a slippery deposit. John took a bit of a risk crossing that – one needs to be very careful there.

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John by the Slippery Fall – fresh water pool in background

We spent some time exploring the Springs and sitting watching the waves breaking along the cliffs. They were a moderate size today – I have seen it much rougher, from there. It really is a very special and unique place and I was so pleased to have been able to come back. The time to leave and walk back to Truck came too quickly!

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Discovery Bay and waves breaking below the basalt shelf

Returned the way we had come, and then back to camp.

Tea was late – home made hamburgers.

We drove 73 kms today.


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1998 Travels February 8

SUNDAY 8 FEBRUARY     PORTLAND

Today was a little clearer, but it was really late – 11am – before we felt like getting up. It was still really windy.

After lunch, we drove to Bridgewater Bay, west of Portland. I wanted to show John what the place is like, as it was a favourite haunt of mine back in my Hamilton days. Many travellers do not visit the place, because it is not on the main road.

The road out from Portland is through a mix of farm land and scrubby country, and tends to go up and down small hills – maybe old coastal dunes. Then you come up over a crest and see this superb big bay, spreading out in front, to a far headland – the Cape. It has always been breathtakingly beautiful, with its long, curving, sandy beach, giving onto the high and rocky Cape. The bay was once part of a volcanic crater; the Cape is made of volcanic material. The cliffs that front the western end of the bay are actually part of the inside crater wall of the old volcano.

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The beautiful Bridgewater Bay. Cape Bridgewater is actually at the left side of the bay; the Bridgewater Lakes are at the top left.

Today, the Bay was brilliantly blue.

The road comes down and runs alongside the bay, eventually with the beach on one side and a few small houses on the other. I used to rent one of these – almost a shack – for weekend breaks. It is still there and not much changed. Its windows look over the beach and the bay, and at night one saw the flash of the Cape Nelson Lighthouse, near Portland. Magic!

I had John drive straight through and out to the Blowholes carpark, on the Discovery Bay side of the Cape, which is the end of the road. We did not linger there as I just wanted to give John an overview of the place.

Came back to a car parking area in front of the old church camp, from where there is a wonderful view over the bay.

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John getting a vantage point to look east across Bridgewater Bay

The old church camp has been substantially developed with new chalets and cabins; it looks quite good.

There has, inevitably, been some development since I was last here, with some streets put in behind the front row of houses to allow access deep behind the main road, but there are still relatively few houses. From memory, the environment was considered somewhat fragile, and there were limits on development. There are tracks and signs all over the place, now, that did not used to exist – a sign that there are more visitors. There are a few houses for rental.

From the Bay, followed the Bridgewater Lakes road, around to the fresh water lakes. We parked there and took the walking track to the ocean  – and  Discovery Bay.

Portland airport is not far from the Bridgewater Lakes – that has gone in since I was last in the area. Guess it became needed because of the establishment of the Alcoa aluminium smelter in the mid 1980’s.

After that little bit of exercise, and the general overview, back to camp.

Tea was cold corned beef and a salad.

John managed to get in a radio phone call to daughter R – she was pleased, but is still getting the hang of having to say “over” to signify the other person can talk!

We drove 83kms today.


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1998 Travels February 7

SATURDAY 7 FEBRUARY     PORTLAND

Woke to a chilly, wet day, with gusty winds at times.

After breakfast, drove to the town centre, only to find that there was go-kart racing through the town, and some of the streets were closed off. We had to do more walking than we’d intended!

Bought the Saturday papers and some groceries. Watched the go-karts for a while. Smelly. Noisy. Rather boring. But there was a good crowd turnout along the streets.

It was so cold that I dug the electric fan heater out from under the bed and we used it through until bedtime!

Spent the rest of the day reading, writing, vegetating. John watched the opening of the Winter Olympics on TV.

That drilling rig is providing me with quite a focal point – watching it, trying to work out what it is doing there. Interesting!

Tea was a cold weather meal, given the change: corned beef, vegies and white sauce, followed by strawberries.


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1998 Travels February 6

FRIDAY 6 FEBRUARY   NELSON TO PORTLAND   75kms

Were up at 7am, in an attempt to depart at a more reasonable hour. We had to pack up everything this morning, not having had a chance to get a start on it yesterday. We did well and were away at 10am. Hitching up the van was brilliantly easy – I am getting much more relaxed about this now. John is becoming brilliant at moving Truck the small distances I need, to align the Treg fitting on Truck with the poly carbonate block on the van – and I mean SMALL distances, like millimetres!

It was a straightforward trip to Portland. We were only passed by one big truck; yesterday we saw lots of them on this road. Some were logging trucks, others we thought might be carrying woodchips to the port.

There did not seem to be a great deal of choice for caravan parks in Portland. I opted for the only one near the sea – the Henty Bay Caravan Park. This had a 3 star rating in our RACV Caravan Park Guide book.  It is about 3 kms from the centre of the town, but has an outlook over Portland Bay. We looked at their bush camping sites, hoping for something as nice as Nelson, but found these a bit too secluded, especially as there was a rather seedy atmosphere to the place in general, and some run down permanent vans tucked away in some of the bushy sites. So we are totally out in the open, but still amongst permanent on site vans. The powered site cost $14 a night.

The park is just alright, but seems rather run down. There is no sandy beach frontage here – just a low rock sea wall and then the water. We can hear the sea, clearly, which will be lovely to go to sleep to. The amenities seem ok, but access is up a long central corridor – rather cavernous and gloomy.

After setting up, we drove into town. First stop was the Post Office, where we collected our next mail bag from home. When opened, back at camp, it contained my new Visa card, but most importantly, the cheque  for John’s long service leave entitlement – nearly $39,000. Yippee! He was thrilled about the amount. Just a few days ago we were mentally juggling the money in our accounts, working out how we were going to pay the house rates and Truck registration. We can’t go wild with it, but at least we now have some savings as a buffer against the unforeseen.

We did  some grocery shopping.

We drove to both the town’s bowls clubs so John could check out events coming up.

By late afternoon, rain was setting in and it was getting colder.

Bought fish and chips for dinner – had to drive into Portland to get them. We thought $12.10 was rather expensive – and in a seaside town!

There is a huge oil or gas drilling rig out in the bay. It took me a while to work out what it was, and that it must be able to be moved around, because they are not actually drilling for anything right in Portland Bay. At night, it is lit up like a Xmas tree. There are a couple of other ships in the bay, too – maybe waiting to load wheat or alumina from the Alcoa smelter.

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Drilling rig in Portland Bay – and a very threatening sky

That corridor in the amenities block is really spooky at night. I don’t like it. Do not feel secure.


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1998 Travels February 5

THURSDAY 5 FEBRUARY     NELSON

Today was the day to fit in all the things I’d wanted to do here, but hadn’t yet tackled!

Bought diesel at Nelson again this morning. Still 78cpl. We could probably have gotten it cheaper somewhere like Mt Gambier, but tell ourselves it is good to support the local businesses. The truth is, we didn’t think of it then!

Today we went exploring in a different direction – in the Portland direction. I really wanted to visit Swan Lake – another place I’ve heard of in connection with school outdoor education trips, but not been to.

As we drove down the track from the highway, John realized from the signs that there was a 4WD track through the sandhills, to the beach. I knew that dune buggies did a lot of driving on the dunes here, but hadn’t known about “proper” vehicles doing it.

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We started up the first sandy slope – and soon stopped short! Vivid memories of the Hilux battling to manage the much easier sand tracks around Coffin Bay came to my mind. But John got out, let down the tyres (which he should have done before we started up), and we then churned on, really quite easily, right through to the beach. It was a deep sand, steeply sloping dune track about 2kms long – mainly for dune buggies.

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Truck stuck!

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Truck unstuck!

John was really thrilled with his Great White Truck! We decided that having normal AT tyres on the Truck, rather than the fat ones of the Hilux, may have been an advantage.

We walked a little on the beach, but the sand was deep, so it was not great walking.

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On the beach. The 4WD track comes in from the left, where the sign is visible

Retraced our way through the dunes, then stopped by the grassy camping area behind the dunes to pump up the tyres again. Having the inbuilt air compressor is a boon for this sort of thing.

Drove around to look at Swan Lake. This lake has been formed by the big sand dunes blocking a little creek. Despite the name, it was not all that attractive – and there were no swans! It was quite low in water. We thought the camping area rather desolate.

Back to the highway; closer to Nelson, we took the unsealed road to Lake Monibeong. This is the largest one of a series of lakes and swamps at the back of the large Discovery Bay sand dunes.

We continued on the track to the parking area beyond the lake, then took the walking track to the beach, and along this to Suttons Rocks. It was about a 3km round trip, by the time we did some beach walking too. There were some steep gradients for John to manage, but he got there. Absolutely vicious mobs of March flies swarmed around us as we walked – which was a great incentive not to stand still. They disappeared once we reached the beach, mostly.

Drove back to Lake Monibeong. This big lake was quite attractive – much nicer than Swan Lake. The camp area was nicer than that at Swan Lake, but still did not appeal that much to me.

We had lunch at the picnic area here. While we were eating, John put his bait trap in the water, and caught some little bait fish.

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Lake Monibeong

Drove back to Nelson and to the Estuary Beach car park. Walked the Livingstone Island Nature Walk, a loop walk around through the salt marsh area. Walked about 2kms.

The water in the estuary seems even higher now than it did the other day. It is right across the road now in two places – last time we drove down here it was only partly over. I guess there is still water coming down the Glenelg, though there has not been much rain in its catchment area, for quite some time. Local opinion is divided on how soon the bar at the river’s mouth will breach and allow the river to drain out to sea again, but most seem to think it will be soon.

We drove out to Sapling Creek again, so John could fish. Here, too, the river was noticeably higher than the other day. There were only little fish biting on John’s bait. We could see lots of baby bream – they ate any scraps thrown in the water and nibbled on bait when we dangled it in the river.

After a very full, but wonderful day, it was another late tea. Soup, toasted cheese, Xmas pudding and ice cream.

John had a sore upper back and shoulder area, today. He was worried that it might be a sign of blood clots in his lungs again, since he is no longer on the warfarin. However, it seems muscular to me – from all the bowling and/or bouncing and jarring it about on the rough track we rode yesterday. But we shall monitor it carefully.


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1998 Travels February 4

WEDNESDAY 4 FEBRUARY     NELSON

After breakfast, I did two loads of washing.

John continued the repair work on his bike. I cleaned up the van and washed the floor.

We had an early lunch because John was going to Port McDonnell to play bowls.

I read the paper, did some embroidery, finished a letter to daughter.

I spent quite a bit of time watching the many birds that are around our site. They seem to have accepted the van’s presence and take little notice of me. Today I was visited by some firetails, a little wattlebird, a New Holland honeyeater, an Eastern spinebill, both Mr and Mrs fairy wren, some silvereyes, a yellow breasted robin and some carolling magpies. There were also crimson rosellas chirping away nearby, at teatime. There is a diversity of vegetation around Nelson, given the coastal  and the river environments, which may account for the variety of the birds. I felt lucky to see so many different ones.

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The sand bar closing the Glenelg River mouth and resultant lake

 

John enjoyed himself at bowls – he found the men very informal and friendly.

For once we managed tea at a reasonable time. I made poached chicken breast with mango, potatoes and broad beans. We followed it with some of the  Xmas pudding my sister in law had given me – very nice cold, with ice cream.

After tea, John decided on a bike ride, to test out his repair work. We rode along the path of the Great South West Walk, which follows the Gorge, from Nelson. Followed this until it met up with Moores Track then took the latter back to Nelson. It was getting late when we started out, and was dark by the time we got back. The ride was rather marginal and risky at the end, with kangaroos hopping away in fright as we rode by. We did not set out to go so far – or at least I didn’t – but rode 9.4kms.

It was also hot work, because we were really hurrying at the end. I’d already had my shower at 5pm, before John decided on the ride, and didn’t want another, so I went “unwashed” to bed!

John wrote postcards to his daughter R and to his sister. His elder daughter, S, is due back from a six-month posting to Bougainville, today.