SATURDAY 4 AUGUST   HONEYMOON BAY TO MCGOWANS ISLAND  

It was a hot, sweaty, dusty pack up of camp. John’s back was sore, so he was rather tetchy. Even though we were only going a few kms, everything still really only went in Truck one way – and that was properly packed!

There was no sign of Les or Ruth by the time we left Honeymoon. I’d have liked to say farewell, but so be it.

It did not take very long to drive around to McGowans.

A house at the entrance to the campground was the home of an extended aboriginal family – the owners of the area, and it was here that campers stopped to book in and pay. It cost us $20 a night.

We found a spot to set up camp, on grass – a luxury! M and J selected the site – for the grass and because it gave us a (small and limited) view out over the sea. It was a bit close to the amenity block, though. The tents would be in full sun for most of the day, but there were some trees nearby we could sit under for shade.

Behind our site was a framework structure. It was a bit hard to tell if it was something that had been partially built, then stopped, or a proper building partly cyclone wrecked.

There was actually a breeze here! Wonderful – no biteys.

We were not allowed a campfire here, so could not dispose of our rubbish by burning, and would have to take it away with us. An option was to dump it at the Kalumburu tip as we passed.

Setting up camp again was a very hot experience. It was well and truly time for lunch, when we were done.

There were two non-indigenous men at the house when we had booked in. They seemed to be in charge of the campground, developing it, improving it. I didn’t think they were just hired managers, they seemed to be somehow linked to some of the local owners. Paired up?

One of the men – JC – came by in the afternoon and we got talking. He came mainly to explain about no fires, take out own rubbish, and a strictly enforced fishing policy of only two fish per person, per day. He and his mate certainly seemed to have ambitious plans for the place.

There was no hot water in the showers – yet. But there were flush toilets that worked properly. The showers had cold water. Above all, the amenities block was CLEAN! We noticed over succeeding days that it was regularly cleaned by one of the family. But no toilet paper supplied – BYO again.

The tap water was excellent. JC said it was their best asset.

McGowans seemed to be run with interest, unlike where we had been.

We sat around, in the breeze which had become a wind, for the rest of the day – enjoying the better environment.

The views over the sea from here were excellent. The sunsets were to die for.