This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels November 27

FRIDAY 27 NOVEMBER   ATHERTON TO GREENVALE   328kms

We were up at 7.15 and away at 9am. After five weeks, we are leaving Atherton! This is the longest time we have stayed anywhere, to date, on this trip.

We got the mailing address for L and J, the sisters from WA with whom we have become friends,  and will write and see how their bowling goes. They have our address and say they will miss us. I hope they will be secure here, over summer.

Between Atherton and Ravenshoe there was mist and fog, and a few short rain showers just after Ravenshoe. As we moved further inland, and it got later, so it also got hotter.

Once south of Ravenshoe, we were really into the savannah scrub and woodland country of the inland.

We stopped for a cup of coffee at the parking area at Forty Mile Scrub, where I was fascinated by a lot of little butterflies – yellow, pale blue and white – settled on the ground where there had been puddles and was still moisture. They were different from the usual butterflies.

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Unusual little butterflies on a moist area at the Forty Mile Scrub

Once south of the Highway 1 junction and the road west through Mount Surprise, we were on new ground. The country didn’t change much, though. There were occasional low hills to break up the monotony of the dry grass and scrubland.

We hit a pale headed rosella that flew across the road, right into us. I hoped it somehow survived.

The road for much of today, the Kennedy Development Road, was a single sealed strip, as it seems most such roads are. There was not much traffic, so we did not have to pull over onto the unsealed shoulder of the road very much.

We stopped to eat our packed lunches at a road making area about 20kms north of Greenvale. The rosella we hit was still caught on the roof – it had a broken neck. We were both upset. It is a reality of this sort of travel that we will sometimes, inadvertently, injure or kill wildlife – but it does not make it any easier to deal with.

We would have to pull into Greenvale for fuel, and decided that would do to stay the night. We had both had enough travel for the day and did not feel like pushing on to Charters Towers and having to set up late in the day.

Booked into the Greenvale Caravan Park – $12. We were able to stay hitched up – hardly anyone else in the place.

Greenvale was, we thought, a strange little place. It was built in the early 1970’s, to house workers in the new nickel mine nearby. This became the largest nickel mine in the southern hemisphere, for a time. There was a railway built from here to near Townsville, to transport the ore. Then the mine closed a few years ago and the workers went elsewhere. But the town has been bought by a developer, who is selling – quite cheaply – rather nice houses and flats there. But I suspect there is not the local or surrounding population to sustain the town. It has an Olympic sized swimming pool and good sports facilities, hotel, supermarket, bakery, butcher. The caravan park is also a hardware store and plant nursery. Despite all that, it is hard to see why one would want to live here.

We went for a little walk around some of the town. There are lots of apostle birds around – called Happy Families in these parts, because of the way they cluster together, I guess.

Sweet and sour pork spare ribs for tea.

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We travelled from the wet, green tropics of The Tablelands through the dry savanna country inland


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1998 Travels November 26

THURSDAY 26 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

Today was humid and hot and not at all pleasant. I am thinking that it is good that we are now able to start heading south. But I don’t know how far south we will need to go to find pleasant conditions at this time of year.

We did a lot of packing up. Took down the annexe and packed it away, and the awning roof. Packed away the spare “bed” and bedding. I did a big wash, including quite a lot of items that had to be washed by hand, so that took a while.

John went to bowls in the afternoon.

I did more packing, then cycled to town, with the task of going to Fascinating Facets to buy geode pendants for Xmas presents for V and R. They cost $70. I cycled almost 5kms, which was quite enough in the heat. After that, I had another long and lovely swim.

For our last night’s tea on the Tablelands, I served us half an avocado each for entree, then mixed grill and salads, followed by mango. A very pleasant, tropical meal.

John wrote two performance reports: to Hayman Reece, on the performance of the hitch we have been trialling, and to his hip surgeon, on the performance of the new hip, more than a year after the surgery.


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1998 Travels November 25

WEDNESDAY 25 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

It was very humid today.

We did some grocery shopping and cleaned up the van.

I went for a swim in the park pool – have missed that for the last couple of weeks. It was wonderful and I spent well over an hour just lazing about in the water. I finished a letter to friends. John mostly relaxed at the computer. Intermittently through the day we wondered what was happening with S.

I made a pasta and mushroom stroganoff from my Quick Meals book – it was excellent.

At night, S phoned. She is back in Port Moresby. She was wait listed for a flight that left today, but at the last minute that got elevated to a firm booking. Others missed out, but S was in the company of some influential people! So, all ended well.

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Lots of cane toads outside the van in the night light


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1998 Travels November 24

TUESDAY 24 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

We had to be up early in order to drive S to the airport at Cairns for her return flight to Port Moresby.

S got to see the countryside from Mareeba to Kuranda, and down the range, in the daylight. Again, there was the effect of entering a sauna, as we came down into Cairns.

Found the plane was delayed, due to an air traffic controller strike at Port Moresby. So we took S into Cairns where there were a few shops she decided to visit. Returned to the airport where there was now a degree of confusion at Qantas about what was likely to happen.

S was convinced the plane would go in the afternoon. She encountered some people she knew from work and decided she wanted to lunch with them. So she asked us to leave her at the airport and go. I think we were not polished enough to move in her professional circles! At least, that is what it felt like. It did seem that she did not wish to be seen with us, and I think John was rather hurt.

So we headed off to shop for ourselves: the book exchange; the good craft shop where I bought some more handanger materials; Harvey Norman. At the latter, we were recognized by a former student of mine, who now works there. He also knew John, from when he worked in our local video shop. We had a lengthy chat.

Refuelled Truck at Brinsmead – 67cpl. Dearer than up in Atherton!

Then we headed back up the range again, and out of the oppressive heat. John got me to drive, from near Mareeba – he was tired. No wonder, after the non-stop whirl of the past five days.

We found there was substantial storm damage in the rainforest between Tolga and Atherton, with some trees down. It had been a very localized storm, though, as there was no damage up our end of the town. But we had a few minutes of anxiety, wondering, before we got there.

John was not feeling well. He lay down and did not want any tea. I think it is a combination of all the driving, the tension of having S here and hoping all would go well, and the let down now she is gone.

S’s husband phoned to ask if we knew what was happening, as he had heard there were no planes flying into Moresby. Then S phoned to say she was staying in an hotel, at her own cost, as the delay was not the fault of Qantas. She was unsure when she would get to Moresby – or if she would have to buy another ticket. She said there was talk that there may be no flight until Friday. There was nothing we could do. Had she not been so insistent that we leave, we might have been able to organize something better.

I did not make any tea. I was not hungry either, and I was very tired too.

I had told the park people in advance that we would be having a guest and they charged me an extra $4 for each of the nights S was here.

We drove 242kms today.

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Our explorations around Atherton


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1998 Travels November 23

MONDAY 23 NOVEMBER    ATHERTON

Today was rather better weather.

When we were discussing, last night, what to do today, S expressed a wish to go to Chillagoe, which is also a place that we have not been. So we made a reasonably early start. Refuelled Truck – 66cpl.

First, we took S to the Fascinating Facets gift shop, at the Crystal Caves shop in Atherton. John thought, as she collects amethyst jewellery, she might be able to select a Xmas present from their extensive range. But she chose a necklace of coloured Chinese fresh water pearls, for which we paid $25.

Next stop was the Tolga wood gallery, S having received approval to buy the sculpture she likes so much. There was not much change from $1000! They  packed  it really well and we stored it carefully in Truck. I hope it can go as cabin luggage and not in the plane hold! It is delicate enough to be rather fragile.

Then it was on to Mareeba and west through Dimbulah towards Chillagoe. We were soon off the volcanic Tablelands and into the savannah woodland and grassland country, so S is getting some idea of that environment.

We stopped at Almaden for a look around. This is a small hamlet, rather like some we encountered on our Mt Surprise jaunt. It was once a significant rail junction town, where the line from Forsayth joined the Chillagoe line.

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Almaden – the railway water tank dates from steam engine days. Railway Hotel

Before the Forsayth line was built, Almaden was a Cobb and Co depot, for the coach service from the railway here, to Georgetown. There are still a few houses and cattle roam the streets. The Savannahlander railway goes through here, so we parked near the little railway station. I found an unusual photo opportunity – mother cow feeding her calf, right outside the Ladies sign at the station! It seemed very “Australian outback”.

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Almaden Railway Station and mother cow

The Burke Development Road was, by now, unsealed, but not too rough.

Chillagoe dates from a copper mining boom from the late 1870’s and in its heyday was a considerable mining centre, with a smelter. Gold, silver and lead were also found. It declined from about the 1920’s and is a quite small place these days.

The scenery around Chillagoe is quite dramatic. There is an unusual juxtaposition of ancient limestone reefs and volcanic features. It is from volcanic activity that the marble that is mined here derives.

The dominant feature of the town area is the ruins of the old State Smelter, built around 1900 and abandoned in the 1940’s. Although most of the associated buildings  have crumbled, the big chimney stands, and there are plenty of relics around the site.

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The State Smelter ruins. Main chimney and flue

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Slag heaps at back

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Boilers and main smelter chimney

We browsed around the smelter ruins for some time. There was a degree of stark beauty here.

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Chimney of the pre-treatment plant – one of three remaining chimneys at the site

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The power house chimney and the main chimney

The ruins alone made the effort to come out here worthwhile. But more was to come….

We drove the short distance to the Royal Arch Cave, to the south of Chillagoe, where John and S took the 90 minute guided tour of the Cave. I am not happy being underground, so I walked around up top, took photos, and then read while I waited. They came back saying the tour had been very interesting.

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The limestone reef formation at Royal Arch Cave

Next was the drive about 17kms west of the town, to the Mungana area with its excellent limestone formations. We explored the Archways here – like an open cave. We were the only people here. Close in to the limestone outcrops, the dry tropical woodland was broken up by the vivid green of vine thickets.

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The karst limestone formations at the Mungana Archways

Back near Chillagoe, we visited Balancing Rock – an unusual formation in the limestone. One wonders how long it will stay there!

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Balancing Rock

As we were driving back towards Atherton, John decided we would take the “back” route – turning off the Burke Development Road at Petford and coming via Irvinebank and Herberton. The unsealed road wound around through hilly and scrubby country, through an area that once contained a number of tin mines.  S got a sample of outback rough roads! I found this a rather spooky route in the growing dusk, with some of the crumbling little settlements seeming quite sinister. I was quite relieved when we reached the comparative civilization of Herberton!

We got back to camp after dark, stopping in Atherton first to buy hamburgers for tea.

Tonight’s rain was much less and lighter.

Today was an extremely long day’s driving for John – we did 440kms.

Chillagoe was most interesting. I would like to go and camp there for a few days, sometime, and do a more thorough exploration of the area.


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1998 Travels November 22

SUNDAY 22 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

The day began very humid.

We took S to see more of the typical sights of the Tablelands. Went up Atherton Lookout for its wonderful views over the farmlands.

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From the Atherton Lookout, towards the Seven Sisters peaks near Yungaburra

Drove to Millaa Millaa , and then did the circuit of the three waterfalls: Elinjaa, Millaa Millaa and Zillie Falls.

We returned from our 135km drive via Mt Hypipamee, which S was really intrigued with.

S used John’s laptop to send an email to her husband, with some photos of the wood sculpture she really likes, so he can give her an opinion about buying it.

I cooked fettucine with tomato sauce for tea.

There was, of course, more rain at night, but at least we had some patches of blue sky and sun through today.

S had brought with her, to show John,  the Overseas Service Medal she was awarded for her service in Bougainville.


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1998 Travels November 21

SATURDAY 21 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

I had to do the shopping in the morning. S enjoyed walking through a normal, comprehensively stocked supermarket!

We took her to the wood gallery at Tolga where she spent quite a while browsing. She was very interested in the wood sculptures – abstract and delicately shaped – one in particular. The gallery person said they would pack it really carefully for transport back, if she were to buy one. She needs to consult husband first, though.

After lunch back at camp, we drove to Lake Eacham – another of the lakes that sit in the crater formed by volcanic explosions. Walked around it, through the rainforest that surrounds the lake. It rained, off and on. There were lots of leeches out and about on the vegetation by the track. I got one that managed to penetrate through my sock. Much blood! They are incredibly persistent. We saw a very handsome water monitor lizard.

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A very fat water monitor

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Lake Eacham on a grey day

It is a pity that the pleasant fine days we have just had, have not lasted for S’s visit. We only drove 76 kms with her, today.

I made a mushroom risotto for tea. This was a treat for S, as arborio rice is not available in Moresby and she said mushrooms were $27 a kilo!

It rained fairly solidly through the night.


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1998 Travels November 20

FRIDAY 20 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

We had to get up early as we were going to Cairns to collect S. We could feel the humidity building as we came down the range from Kuranda. Cairns was like a sauna! For the first time, I realized just how much is the contrast between Cairns and the Tablelands, at this time of the year.

We got to the airport just as S’s flight landed, at 10.45.

S said she needed a major shopping fix, after the privations of Port Moresby, so we turned her loose at Cairns Central, arranging to rendezvous again with her at 5.30pm.

We walked around for a while, getting my blood pressure pills prescription filled and buying some regional calendars to be sent off for family Xmas presents. Bought lunch at the food court, then went to the cinema where we saw Holy Man – just so-so, as far as I was concerned. But at least it was a cool place to sit!

Left Cairns about 5.45pm, calling in at the cellars at Smithfield for wine and beer replenishment.

It was dark by the time we got back to Atherton, so S did not get to see much of the local scenery. We did 209 kms today.

There was a storm building up and then we had heavy rain.

Bought fish and chips for a very late tea.

There was much talk about the life S is leading in Port Moresby – quite restricted in many ways, and with a very high level of security. She seems very happy to be here. She slept in the annexe, which was a bit damp – as everything is here at the moment – and where water ran across the concrete slab floor, whenever it rained. Guess it is no worse than some of the places she stayed in when back packing through Asia.


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1998 Travels November 19

THURSDAY 19 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

Another fine day.

I did the washing.

John went to bowls after lunch, and I cleaned the van – thoroughly. He refuelled Truck – 65cpl.

When he got back from bowls, we put the walls up on the annexe – they zip onto the roof that we have up. We set up the camp bed – banana lounge and unzipped sleeping bag. At least it will not be cold, so this should be adequate.

Tea was cold roast pork with salads.


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1998 Travels November 18

WEDNESDAY 18 NOVEMBER     ATHERTON

After breakfast, set out for another driving day, encouraged by another morning of blue sky amongst fluffy white clouds. I remembered my camera this time.

Took the Kennedy Highway south, then turned off for Tumoulin – a tiny village which we wanted to drive through simply because it is the highest sealed road in Queensland, and also the highest railway station. We did not stop, though.

Continued on to Ravenshoe and then south on the Tully Falls Road. This took us to the Tully Gorge Lookout – a view over the Falls and also down the Tully River valley. At the picnic area at the Gorge Lookout, saw an absolutely huge cane toad – the biggest one I have ever seen.

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The dry Tully Falls

The Tully Falls must have been really spectacular before the river was dammed nearby, for a hydro power station. But now they are dry. I suppose they may flow in the Wet season, if there is enough heavy rain upstream. The dammed water is let out through the hydro station, further downstream, thus the river itself flows from that point, strongly enough to allow white water rafting on it, downstream. The view down the valley was rather dramatic.

 

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The Tully River valley, with the power station just below us

 

Retraced the route, then turned off to visit Little Millstream Falls, where we had lunch. These Falls were lovely. They are just a little way upstream from the main Millstream Falls that we visited on the way to Mt Surprise, and are equally well worth visiting.

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Little Millstream Falls

From Ravenshoe, took the Old Palmerston Highway towards Millaa Millaa, turning off part way there to go see the Souita Falls. These were very similar to the other falls in this area.

By the time we got back to camp, we’d driven 216kms. It was a long day.

I still had time to roast the pork for tea, with the usual vegies. It was very nice. The only issue is that using the electric frypan does not allow the rind to go crackly.

Phoned K – now that we have a better idea of dates – to ensure mail was sent before the end of this week, to Charters Towers. That should ensure it is there when we get there. He told us there were big storms in our home area last weekend, but no damage at home.