This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

1998 Travels August 18

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We did not sleep well. One reason may have been residual tension from the day. But there was pretty constant “critter” noise around outside. Neither of us was game to go out and see what animal/s were causing it! We did know we were too far from the sea, and up too high on the cliff top, for it to be the croc, but in the dark of the night the mind can come up with some similarly nasty possibilities! At one stage, I even wondered whether we should migrate the lilo to the roof rack and try to sleep up there!

After breakfast, we went and gathered some firewood and took it back to the clearing. Then we drove back to the bog area to retrieve a chain John realized we’d left behind. I insisted that John turn Truck around well before we got to the gully, even though it meant some backing to and fro in the scrub at the side of the track. We then walked to get the chain! I took photos in the daylight of the bog site, it having been too dark when we got ourselves unstuck last night.


Where we had been stuck – pretty churned up now. The low shrub just around the corner helped us out, eventually.

08-17-1998 07 Ussher Point track where stuck.jpg

This is how the track looked as we approached the place, yesterday. Problem area upper centre. Just doesn’t look that hard!

After lunch back at camp, we went for a walk on the beach. Made sure that we crossed the creek outlet at a point where it was shallow and quite a distance from the deeper, croccy part! There did not seem to be any new croc tracks.


The beach and cliffs at Ussher Point

We meandered along, for quite a distance, looking at the low cliffs and rock outcrops. Then I saw an animal, in the distance, coming down a scrubby slope and commented to John that there was a cow coming. But it was a HUGE pig that emerged onto the beach and wandered along it, stopping to dig holes in the sand. We were between the water and it – a very scary situation. I really did wish that we had a gun, as I tried to remember if I’d read anything about the likelihood of a feral pig that size attacking people.

After a surprisingly short discussion, we both agreed we did not want to spend another night in the little tent, with those sorts of creatures around. Especially given last night’s noises!

So, it was a fast walk back to camp, keeping a wary eye on pig whilst we were on the beach part.

We were packed up in under an hour and back onto the track by 4pm.

Our only choice, apart from another night camped in the bush, was to go back to Seisia, as it was dark by the time we reached the main road. Got to Seisia at 7.45pm, so we had really pushed it along.

After these harrowing two days, and given that it was now raining heavily, we could not face setting up a tent again, in the Seisia sand patch, for just one night. So we asked at the campground what the price was for one of their “motel rooms”. She said $38, which we thought was reasonable, so we took it. Then, it turned out that she meant EACH – so the room cost us $76 for the night. For that money, we got a small cubicle-like room, one of several in a donga structure. It just held two single beds, a small bar fridge, and two small sets of drawers. The air conditioning worked – very noisily – all night, and there was no way of turning it off or disconnecting it. There was an electric kettle so we could make tea or coffee – but the kettle cord was not long enough to reach from any solid surface to the only power point, so one stood and held up the kettle until it boiled. The amenities block was a good fifty metres away – no, our room was not en-suite!

John rushed off and bought fish and chips from the kiosk, just before they closed.

Overall, Ussher Point was not a very interesting or scenic place, and certainly not worth the effort involved in getting there.

It was not a great night’s sleep – but at least we did not have to worry about pigs!


Route from Punsand to Ussher Point. We returned to Bamaga, then Seisia.

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