This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels April 6

MONDAY 6 APRIL     ILUKA TO TALLEBUDGERA    216kms

I got up at 6.30, John slept on until 8. I went for an early morning walk around the caravan park, then sat for a while watching the birds. We were away at 9.30am, without any dramas.

Although there was some great scenery, today’s was not an enjoyable drive. There were too many hills and bends, requiring constant concentration. I am still very tense about the whole towing thing, so cannot really relax and enjoy.

After about Bangalow, we were on totally new ground for us. A few years ago, when staying near Coffs, in school holidays, on C’s recommendation, we had driven up to Rosebank, near Bangalow, to look at some woodworking timber. But that was only a quick day drive and I can’t say we have ever really explored much north of Coffs, at all well. Not going to right now, either!

In a section south of Ballina, where the highway runs beside the Richmond River, we were passed by two oncoming vehicles with Oversize Vehicle Following signs, and flashing lights. The road was narrow, the bends were right angles, the river levee bank was on one side. We were just asking ourselves why there were two warning vehicles, one behind the other, as we approached another right angled bend – and met a huge truck coming our way. The trailer had what we think was some kind of barge on it. He took up the entire road width, and he’d swung out even wider to take the bend. Fortunately, John was going slowly for the bend, so he was able to come to a sudden stop, as far left as we could get, which wasn’t far! The truck missed the van, but John said it was very close, from what he could see in the rear vision mirror. The driver kind of jack  knifed his load, having to pull back across at the corner. It gave us a huge fright – seemed to happen so quickly. We decided that the advance warning should have been much clearer – making traffic pull over and stop completely. Well, that was another towing experience, and something else to watch out for – Oversize Vehicles that may be extremely oversized! We had never before seen anything that big travelling roads like this before.

The road got very hilly north of Brunswick Heads. We stopped in that town to eat our pre-packed lunch, as we saw a place to park while negotiating our way through. We were able to walk to the fish co-op, where I bought some mullet and prawns.

There were several ocean-going yachts tied up in the river boat harbour there, with people living on them – practical boats, rather than up-market ones.

Between Brunswick Heads and Murwillumbah there were great views to the west and north-west, to the mountains – the Borders Ranges. Definitely country to explore one day, but from the look of it, without the van on the back!

It was flatter and easier after Murwillumbah.

At times, after the episode with the barge, I could smell something strong – almost acrid. I wondered if it was the brakes getting too hot, because we were using them quite a bit. Months later, having met the same smell in lots of other places, and sometimes when walking, I was to realize that it was some type of wild grass, but it had me anxious at the time. As the passenger, I have little to do except worry! It was just that sort of day.

We were low on fuel by the time we crossed the border into Qld, as John had wanted to wait to refuel, as he thought it was cheaper in that state, due to a government subsidy. And it is – by 9-13 cents a litre. That will make travel more economic. Filled up at Tugun – 64cpl.

Went to the Tallebudgera Caravan Park – a Family Parks one, on the southern part of the Gold Coast. Cost $15.75 a night. The park is really large. It adjoins the Tallebudgera Creek, just a little upstream from the sea. Can’t hear the sea though, due to some buildings between the coast and here. The receptionist told us there were no sandflies – good! It is booked out for Easter, and wouldn’t be so nice then anyway – too crowded. But I guess where we are going will be the same.

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We set up for a short stay. John messed about with the TV aerial and the radiophone for a while.

We then walked along the creek to the beach, which was a pleasant looking one. There were some people fishing off a breakwall at the creek mouth. The waves were huge!

It was dusk when we walked back to the van. I phoned friend L. We will go there for tea tomorrow.

Tea was prawns and salad.

We were both quite tired, so it was an early night.

We are in Queensland at last! After 13 weeks on the road………


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1998 Travels April 5

SUNDAY 5 APRIL   SOUTH WEST ROCKS TO ILUKA   262kms

We got up about 7.30am and were away at 9.35, after a smooth and calm pack up. It was a warm day, nearly 30 and somewhat humid.

The drive north on the Pacific Highway seemed uneventful and easier. We had one stop, north of Coffs Harbour, at Halfway Creek. It seemed strange to be going through the Coffs area and not staying – we have spent so many school holidays camping at various places around there.

Passed through or by many places that I would have loved to spend some time at – but they have to be put on the “later” list, given our main goal for this winter.

Went to Iluka. I thought it would be smaller and quieter than Yamba. They are twin settlements, each side of the mouth of the big Clarence River. We have noticed, as we move further north, the rivers are getting bigger. We detoured some 20kms from the highway, to get to Iluka.

At the Anchorage Top Tourist Park we were able to leave the van hitched up for the night. Cost $13.50. They told us they were not yet booked out for the Xmas period. Hmmmm…..but don’t want to commit this far ahead.

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After minimal set up, we were hot and sweaty, so had a beer each.

Got the bikes off and set out for a ride. Explored some of Iluka’s streets, looked across the very wide river mouth to Yamba in the distance, then rode the Heritage Rainforest Walk track. This was great – like riding through a green cave, with lots of tree roots to dodge in the late afternoon dimness. We reached Iluka Bluff and looked out over spectacular rock shelves and pools, where the waves were crashing in. Great!

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John cycling the Rainforest Walk track in the Bunjalung National Park

Saw much bird life as we rode and identified three new birds. There are lots of lorikeets and mynahs in the park, too, so constant bird noise there.

We were a bit late riding back through the rainforest and it was very dim indeed. Rode straight to the fish co-op we’d found earlier, for fish and chips. Then it was a fast trip back to the van, with the dinner in my backpack, and in the dark. Fortunately there were few cars around. Maybe I should get lights for the bike?

All up, we cycled 14 kms and thoroughly enjoyed it. Must return to this place and explore the Bunjalung National Park thoroughly.

The seafood dinner was very nice, too.

After tea, John tried to use the direct dial facility on the Radphone – no luck.

There are plenty of mozzies around. Sandflies too.


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1998 Travels April 4

SATURDAY 4 APRIL     SOUTH WEST ROCKS

Sorted the bills that had arrived in the mail bag yesterday, and wrote cheques. Took about an hour to do that! Then we had a quick trip to the shops to post the bills, get the paper and some rolls for lunch. John had a browse in the fishing gear shop.

Joined the Family Parks Association – cost $10.

Had lunch, then took down the awning and packed it away.

About 3pm, drove into Kempsey to have tea with Z and C. Got fuel in Kempsey – 73 cpl.

Z served chicken casserole with vegies and a tart to follow. We got back to the van about 10pm. I feel good that we have taken the time to spend with C. We can never be sure if we will see him again!

I am really itchy from the bug bites.


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1998 Travels April 3

FRIDAY 3 APRIL     SOUTH WEST ROCKS

It was humid again in the morning.

I finished some letters and cards. Did washing. It was too humid – and late – for it to dry properly, so I ended up having to drape undies all over the poptop handle rails inside the van, overnight. Wasn’t going to leave it outside!

John went to bowls in the afternoon. I walked up to town and posted letter and cards and collected a bag of mail from home. Was news from daughter: they are now staying for a month in Bendigo as B has got work for that time, there. Then they will go to Shepparton and do a course to get their heavy vehicle driving licences.

John enjoyed his bowls.

Tea was cold roast beef and mashed potato.

It was cooler tonight. I think the wind direction may have changed because we can hear the sea really strongly tonight.


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1998 Travels April 2

THURSDAY 2 APRIL     SOUTH WEST ROCKS

The day was overcast and there was still some rain at times. We had 50mm of rain overnight.

I’d noticed a couple of itchy lumps about the extremities, and wondered, due to the tidal creek and little mangroves nearby, but now I am sure – we ARE getting mozzie and sandfly bites, here. Had to find the repellent, which hasn’t been needed for a long time.

John spent most of the day doing things on his computer. I read, and did a little fishing, from the bank of the tidal creek behind the van. Caught a small fish – it had a blue sheen, circular stripes and prominent fins. I had no idea what it was, so it went back in the water.

After lunch, drove into Kempsey to do a grocery shop. Noticed that out on the green river flats, the houses are raised up high – guess there are some decent floods here.

Then I roasted the raffle beef for tea, with vegies. It was very nice, for a change, as we do not often eat roast beef. I like these “free” feeds.


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1998 Travels April 1

WEDNESDAY 1 APRIL     SOUTH WEST ROCKS

April Fools Day. Another humid day.

We were expecting a visit from Z and C, so I made a batch of pikelets for morning tea, before they came. We talked here for a while, over morning tea. We had remembered to tell them to bring their own seating!

C drove us around South West Rocks, pointing out some places of interest, then out to Arakoon and Trial Bay. I was pleased that his driving seemed fine – one never knows!

Arakoon is a small National Park on the outskirts of South West Rocks. It surrounds the Trial Bay Gaol, built in the late 19th century.

We went to Little Bay for a BBQ picnic lunch. There was a shelter, with table, seats and a fireplace. The men organized the BBQ. We had the Tbone steak and a tray of satay sausages. We cooked the whole tray full – it seemed easiest – and took the leftovers back to the van for tea.

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Cooking our picnic lunch at Arakoon National Park

After lunch, we walked up Monument Hill to the top. In WW1  supposed German sympathizers were interned in the gaol and the Monument is to those who died here. The walk was about a km to the top, gradually uphill, through coastal scrub and banksia woodland,  where there were lots of birds. C managed the walk well – at the outset, we had been concerned about him attempting it – but Z was stuffed!

From the top of the hill there was an excellent vista over the historic gaol.

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Outlook over Trial Bay Gaol ruins

We got back to the van about 4pm.

Tea was cold sausages and salads.

It began to rain in the early evening, with some really heavy showers at times. It was great to clear the air, and to hear rain on the roof. It was such a novelty that I went out and walked about in it!


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1998 Travels March 31

TUESDAY 31 MARCH     SOUTH WEST ROCKS

Another humid day.

After breakfast, we drove around the township, getting an idea of its layout. John, of course, checked out the bowls club, and found there was a game this afternoon. So we bought rolls and headed back to the van for an early lunch, after which he went off to bowl.

I walked around part of the town. Went to the Information Centre and collected some material. Bought some post cards.

I went for a walk along the beach. There were lots of bluey coloured jelly like critters washed up on the sand, which put me off paddling in the shallows. But it is lovely to have a convenient beach on which to walk – the first such for the trip. Lots of beach walking definitely figured prominently in my retirement dreams.

John enjoyed bowls and won the raffle – a meat tray consisting of a big piece of roasting beef and a T bone steak – just one!

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The tidal creek by our camp – at high tide

Tea was salads.

People a couple of vans up from us had clothing that was hung outside, and food stored in an outside fridge, stolen during last night. They told me that the housing area adjacent to the park was mostly inhabited by aboriginal people and that the local word was that some of these were responsible for thefts from the park. We had already made sure that the bikes were chained to the A Frame of the van, but John got out an extra bit of chain and a padlock and chained up the bike carrying rack too. We decided that our outdoor table and chairs were probably safe enough – whilst they suit our needs, they are not particularly flash, or new.


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1998 Travels March 30

MONDAY 30 MARCH     SOUTH WEST ROCKS

It is a humid day.

John phoned brother C. We are to visit them for lunch today. We are about 30kms from their place at North Kempsey, so set off mid-morning. Stopped in Kempsey to buy some rolls, sliced meats and an iced bun, to take to them, for lunch.

We had an enjoyable visit. Much talk, of course. C looks much better than I’d expected, given a recent run of health issues that have required regular trips to hospital in Sydney. However, he seemed tired by the time we left, about 4.30pm. He is very interested in our travel plans and very insistent that we keep him updated on where we are.

We made some plans about what we’d all do together for the rest of our visit. Must be careful not to over tire C.

Did a small grocery shop in Kempsey on the way out.

It is a really attractive drive between Kempsey and SW Rocks. We are north of Sydney, so I guess it is getting towards the sub-tropical zone. The lush green-ness is such a contrast to drought stricken Canberra. It smells different. There are so many birds around.

Tea was fries, bacon and eggs.


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1998 Travels March 29

SUNDAY 29 MARCH   ANNA BAY TO SOUTH WEST ROCKS   341kms

It was yet another hot day. Think I would prefer it cooler for driving days.

John used our hose to give the van a quick wash down before we left. It was looking a bit grimy – the Queanbeyan park was dustier than we realized.

Got fuel at Anna Bay – 76 cpl.

Drove back to the Pacific Highway at Raymond Terrace, then north.

We stopped at a wayside stop to eat our lunch – sandwiches I made before we left this morning. It was much easier just pulling in here, than it was yesterday in the roadhouse car parks.

John was much happier towing today. He has realised that he needs to use the Truck gears more to slow the rig on downhill sections, rather than just relying on the brakes. He may be getting used to the feel of the weight of the van on the back, too.

Turned off at Kempsey, for South West Rocks. The country side around here looks more green than we have seen to date. It is dairy country – lots of grazing cows. It is very pleasant to be seeing green again!

Booked into the Macleay Valley Caravan Park – $14.50 a night, with the seventh night free, so at $87 a week, is nicely under budget. We are doing quite well so far and I think our estimates may have been about right.

At check in, we were told not to leave things of value outside the van when we were not out there. First time that has happened.

This is a good looking caravan park, with easy access to our site. We overlook a tidal creek, with a wide area of thick green grass between us and the creek. We have space, views, peace, and green!

Set up camp, relaxed for a while. Went for a short walk along the creek.

This is a Family Parks Association caravan park – think we might join that chain too.

Tea was sausages and salad.

Phoned K to let him know our location.

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1998 Travels March 28

SATURDAY 28 MARCH   QUEANBEYAN TO ANNA BAY   501kms

Managed to leave Queanbeyan just before 9am, after what is becoming a routine pack and hitching up.

Went north to the Hume Highway at Goulburn. At Mittagong, pulled off the freeway for a coffee break. John has become anxious about towing and about the van brakes in particular – feels he can’t get them working as he would like. Then he got concerned about being able to manoeuvre the van around the area where we stopped, and wanted to go back the way we had come in – found it was a No Entry and had to go the way I had suggested. Atmosphere rather chilly!

I was rather anxious too, about smoothly navigating us around Sydney. Despite it being the weekend – deliberate timing on our part – there was still a heap of traffic. I took us around the back of Parramatta, not through the middle of the city. The road lanes seemed very narrow in the built up area, and big trucks very close, as a result. It was a tense time.

We stopped for lunch at a roadhouse area by the Newcastle Freeway. Had manoeuvring problems again, due to cars parked in the caravan/trailer section of the car park. It was very hot by now, too. We ate lunch, quickly, in the car park.

There are some big downhill sections on the freeway north of Sydney. John felt the van was pushing Truck all the time on these, and certainly was not at ease driving. Surely towing cannot be like this for all caravanners? We can’t be doing things the right way. Otherwise, no one would put themselves through this all the time!

Left the Pacific Highway at Raymond Terrace, to go to Anna Bay, to the Top Tourist One Mile Beach Caravan Park. This cost $15.30. They put us on a site with a very narrow access road, with cabins butt up against the road opposite the site. After a couple of attempts to back the van onto the site, John gave up, drove across empty neighbouring sites and parked side on, leaving the van attached to Truck. He’d had enough, today! It has been a very long and hot day and the greatest distance driven in a day, on this trip. It has not  been easy driving, either, with all the traffic and city stuff.

One good aspect of the day has been that John’s leg has not been too painful – there has been a real improvement there.

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The caravan park is fairly full with lots of permanent vans  and people. It is close enough to Sydney to be accessible easily at weekends.

After minimal set up, we walked down a track that led onto the beach, had a quick look at that and did not think it was particularly attractive. Did not really linger there – it was quite late in the day.

Tea was steak and salad. I cooked the steak in the electric frypan – as good as a BBQ plate.