This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2010 Travels April 23

FRIDAY 23 APRIL     PETERBOROUGH TO MT IVE     330kms

The usual morning routine was uneventful.

From Peterborough, went through Orroroo, Wilmington and via Horrocks Pass to Port Augusta.

I always found this section depressing. There were too many abandoned old stone buildings that were once farm homes. There was a sense of desperation and failure, to me. Tricked by a series of good years, would-be settlers had ignored Goyder’s Line and tried their luck out here. In the 1860’s, the Surveyor General, Goyder, had separated SA into two sections: the better watered part where agriculture was feasible, and the drier parts suited only to open grazing, if anything. The division between these on the maps became known as Goyder’s Line. Unfortunately, when there were a few unusually good seasons in a row, it was too easy for people to think he was wrong. Hence the abandoned ruins we were passing.

I wondered if, with current climatic change, a 21st century Goyder’s Line would shrink even closer to Adelaide?

John was very pleased with the performance of the van brakes through Horrocks Pass. That made a change. Maybe Trakmaster did something at the recent service that had actually worked.

As we were driving into Port Augusta, saw a Trakmaster van pulled up at an auto electrician place. After the trials of last year’s travel, I could sympathize.

We went to the Woolworths supermarket, easily finding a parking place for the rig in the large car park between the shopping complex and the sea front. Did a food shop, mostly for fresh provisions. We did not plan to be near shops again for a week or so.

Drove to an auto parts place, where John bought a new CB aerial. We were picking up M’s calls to us alright, but she couldn’t hear us transmit. John did not want to wait around for someone to install it, and said he would do it himself, later.

Headed out of town, on the highway west. At Iron Knob, turned off onto the unsealed Nonning Road that goes for about 120kms, through the Siam Station, to Mt Ive Homestead.

The road surface was not too bad, but in parts there were little humps, and dips, which necessitated great concentration. John missed seeing one such and we did a huge bounce – instant rearrangement of the contents of the van’s cupboards!

Stopped by the road side to eat lunch. A bit further on, there were glimpses of Lake Gilles, to the south – another salt lake. Gathered some wood for possible campfires.

The entrance to the Station approach road was marked, very distinctively and incongruously, by a submarine apparently rising out of the red earth. This had been built by some local volunteers, utilizing an old boiler. Why, I’d never been able to find out. Maybe because they could? Anyway, it certainly made for a very unusual mail box.

Mount Ive campground had been developed more, since our last visit in ’99. The camp area was more attractive, with tree plantings and a roofed sort of camp kitchen structure.

Our powered site cost $22 a night, with the seventh night free. Very reasonable we thought, for out here. There were two power poles, a distance apart, with eight outlet sockets on each. We chose an area by one pole where shelter screens kind of defined the camp spots, and we hoped would prevent any neighbours from becoming too intrusive.

We were not too far from the amenities, which were housed in one end of an ex-Woomera building that also housed a kitchen and recreation room – for users of the cabin accommodation  only!

Ex-Woomera building

Woomera, further to the east, was the site of a military rocket launching and testing facility, from 1947 until 1982, a joint British and Australian facility. After 1982, the off limits Woomera village area was opened to the travelling public, though only official government staff can live there. As the facility was wound back somewhat, after 1982, some buildings that were not needed were sold off and re-located. Hence the one at Mt Ive.

We set up, with M putting her “living” tent at an angle to the back of the van. I re-packed the van cupboards. They were not quite as bad as I’d expected.

Mt Ive camp

Had a wander around the campground and buildings. There were some excellent photos on display in the rec. room, many taken by a lady from nearby Thurlga Station. There was one photo of a bird delicately picking the nose of a sheep – a once-ever photo!

John was really absorbed by some Major Mitchell Cockatoos in scrub in the area.

A twin engine plane – identity VH ZUM – also featured in a photo that was obviously taken here. I wondered if that was taken before our one-time boss bought it for his aviation company, back in 2005. However, later, I saw some brochures set out, for his company, so then assumed that he had added Mt Ive to his aerial tour routes and destinations.

There were only a couple of other lots of campers here.

Near the camp ground

There had been cloud build up during the day, and it was quite overcast by sunset. Hoped it would not rain. The tracks in this area would not be pleasant, wet!

We had the usual happy hour, sitting outside, around a campfire we’d built. Our tea was salt and pepper squid rings, and salad.

The night was wonderfully quiet – back in the bush again…..


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1999 Travels September 4

SATURDAY 4 SEPTEMBER     WOOMERA

It remained windy all night, but did seem to lessen off somewhat towards morning. The night was warm enough to not need the doona, but it did get a little chilly by morning, and got progressively colder through the day.

We drove to the shops. Got fuel – 80cpl. I bought bread, a paper, a lottery ticket.

Drove on to Roxby Downs, about 80kms to the north – on a sealed road, through very flat and featureless country,  with big power lines running beside the road, for some of the way. In places, we travelled through areas of low sand dunes with occasional dry salt pans.

This town was built about a decade ago, to service the new Olympic Dam copper and uranium mine project. The mine workers live here, and various services the mine needs are provided. The actual mine is a few kms away.

Roxby Downs town centre is much bigger than I had expected, and was very busy. I bought vanilla slices to have with lunch. Got to support these remote area shops!

We drove out to the mine area, where – from by the fence and gate – there were buildings to be seen – it is a big complex. But the actual mining is down a large shaft, and so cannot be seen.

From the township, took the unsealed road east, for 30kms, to the opal mining village of Andamooka. As we approached the township, there were the tell tale white mullock heaps, typical of opal fields. The place was rough and untidy looking, which also seems typical.

The lines of diggings seemed to follow the sides of a creek valley. The whole place is very higgledy and hard to navigate. Apparently, there is no local council for here, therefore no rules to be followed, in terms of buildings and development. A lot of the structures are shacks.

We followed signs to the Long Bus opal sales centre – a strange little place, where we had to walk through their kitchen and living room, to get to the opal sales room.

There were some aboriginal artefacts and tacky tourist souvenir stuff for sale, but also some good solid opal and matrix opal.

We had not heard of matrix opal before, and we rather fascinated by it. The opal has formed in little spaces in parent limestone rock. Opal in other places forms in other sorts of rock, where the background colour refracts light through the opal, giving it colour. That is kind of a non-technical explanation! Here, the unusual formation in white limestone causes the colour to be very pale. At some stage, some bright persons discovered that, if matrix opal is “cooked” in sugar solution and acid, the colour is brought out. It shows as little pinprick dots in the rock – most unusual and very attractive. I suppose that, if the limestone structure allowed it, bigger opal areas would show up, too.

09-04-1999 matrix opal

Matrix opal – enlarged

I liked this matrix opal much more than the pale Coober Pedy opal, and bought a pendant, for $300, bargaining it down from $390. It has a browny colour, with the really bright pinpricks of colour in it, but also with a slightly larger chip of opal in it, which makes it really unusual. I loved it, on sight!

J phoned sister H and told her about the opals available here. On her instructions, bought her  a solid opal piece – suitable for a ring, pendant or brooch – for $250.

We ate our lunch, late, at Andamooka, then drove around looking at the township, for a little while. Debated about whether we could find a track that might take us out to the nearby Lake Torrens – a dry salt lake – but decided it was too hard, and headed back to Woomera instead.

It had become quite cloudy by the time we left Andamooka.

Back at Woomera, we visited the display area. John went into the adjacent history museum, which cost him $4. I wandered around, looking at missiles, bombs and satellite launcher displays. I took a photo of the launcher of the first Australian satellite sent into space – the fourth in the world. Its remains were recovered from a remote part of the Simpson Desert. There were Jindivik target planes there, and a Jabiru atmospheric research vehicle. I actually found it all quite interesting.

09-04-1999 bits and first rocket for satellite from woomera.jpg

Assorted Woomera related relics

09-04-1999 remains first rocket for satellite.jpg

Remains of the launcher of Australia’s first satellite

When we got back to the van, we’d driven 288 kms today.

Tea was soup, chilli con carne.

It was a cool evening, still with some wind.

I phoned K from the pay phone in the park, to report our whereabouts and possible plans. John phoned H to tell her about the opal he’d bought. He also phoned a place I’d read about that was setting up a camping ground – Mt Ive Homestead, to establish that they do have camping. We will head there tomorrow.

John reported to Adelaide Base of the VKS network, that we’d be going to Mt Ive, in the Gawler Ranges, via Kingoonya. It is a bit remote, so we thought it wise to sched in.

John spent some time working out and entering waypoints on the GPS, for tomorrow’s trip. Then he played games on his computer till after midnight.