This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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1998 Travels October 7

WEDNESDAY 7 OCTOBER     MOUNT SURPRISE

We got up to a day that was already warm.

Drove the 54kms to Undara, some of it retracing our way yesterday, and just got there in time for the two hour tour that left at 10.30am. This cost us $26 each.

From the office, we were driven by mini bus to the Tubes, proper – not far. It was a very interesting and informative tour. We saw rock wallabies relaxing from the heat of the day on rock ledges in the cave like areas – smart move!

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Rock wallaby resting on a shaded ledge

There had just been some board walks and stairs put in, to make it easier for tourists, and to avoid scrambling over volcanic boulder fields.

We walked down into and through different tubes. Some were cave-like; in others the roof had collapsed and there was rainforest growing in areas of light.

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Inside a lava tube, showing patterned rock walls, pile of volcanic rocks from fallen roof, and thick vegetation in the open part

We learned that the Tubes were formed from lava flows from volcanoes off to the south east. The lava filled old creek and river beds and flowed along these. The tops cooled first and thus hardened, but the still molten stuff inside kept flowing off to further along, before it too dried. Hence the tube-like formations. The area of occurrence of these is quite vast. At least one tube is thought to have been over 100kms long – and maybe the largest in the world. In places, the tube roofs have collapsed in, and the resultant fertile hollows have rainforest growth. Apparently, from the air, these darker green patches show the lines of the lava tubes.

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A Google Earth snip showing the line of a lava tube, and a volcanic cone in the Undara region

In places, the walls and ceilings of the tubes are patterned in whorl shapes and with a variety of colour patterns, caused by different minerals in the original lava.

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Unusual patterns and colours in the Undara rock

To the original aboriginal inhabitants of the area, the tubes were mysterious places where the Quinkan men lived – the same spirit people we’d seen depicted in the art works around Laura.

After the tour, which we decided was excellent value, we partook of the tea/coffee provided at the restaurant area, then wandered around the Undara complex. For a “different” outback tourist experience for travellers, the accommodation units in old railway carriages were novel. These carriages are about a hundred years old and were purchased and brought here a few years ago, when the tourist venture was being set up. Surprisingly, they don’t seem all that out of place in the bush.

The camp area did not look great – bare and dusty. I much prefer Bedrock Village.

The place seemed to have a lot of staff, for this time of year. I bought some postcards and a magnet.

We took the walking track from the complex, up to the Bluff. Met a lot of squatter pigeons along the track. I suppose the birds have this name because they seem to spend most of their time on the ground and sort of squat and look at you. Ate our pre-packed lunch up there. I’d brought this with us, as our budget restricts us from buying meals in places like this. The Bluff walk was a short, hot one, a bit under a km each way, that allowed us a view out over the Hundred Mile Swamp and the volcanic cone and shield region where the tubes are.

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The outlook south from The Bluff at Undara – volcanic cone in the distance

Undara certainly is unique – I am very pleased we visited it.

Retraced our walk back to the complex and then drove back to camp. Had a swim in the pool – great. It was pleasantly cool, with ledges in places at the side where one could sit, almost submerged. Just what was needed in this heat.

There was some cloud build up through the afternoon.

John made the area under the awning shady by draping the big piece of shade cloth we carry around the sides. Not very sophisticated in appearance, but effective.

We sat outside again, in the dusk – there was a lovely moon rise again. It looked quite dramatic, appearing and disappearing behind the cloud cover.