This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.


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2000 Travels March 22

WEDNESDAY 22 MARCH     STANLEY

John had played games on his computer until nearly 5am, so he only had a short sleep before getting up this morning.

We discovered that the same front tyre was flat again! K Mart tyres in Burnie had put in a new tube. John phoned them. They suggested that the rivets inside the steel wheel might be rubbing the tube. Wonder if the rivets have moved under recent stresses? Clearly, it needs checking.

We put the van spare wheel on Truck and set out for a final drive – hoping, yet again, not to have another flat tyre!

Refuelled at Smithton – 95cpl.

Drove to the west, to explore the north west section of coast. From Smithton, took the Montague road, which became a gravel one after that township. But it was in good condition. Went right across to Marrawah, then south along the coast to West Point and south to Nelson Beach, Arthur River and Temma.

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Temma

That last section of coast was truly windswept – the scrub and low trees all leaned at an angle, away from the west!

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Not hard to tell the direction of the prevailing winds!

Temma was just the usual collection of mostly seasonal shacks on a small bay. One of the more substantial houses was elevated, and had a huge store of cut firewood under it.

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The entire under-house area was filled with firewood

We retraced the way we’d come, sidetracking and stopping off at Couta Rocks. Arthur Beach and the mouth of the Arthur River. I remembered that my father came over to Tasmania, on several occasions, to go to the big annual Arthur River fishing competition with Uncle T and cousin B, so I’d long had some curiosity about the place.

Around the mouth of the Arthur River there were lots of old logs littering the beaches – a legacy of the logging days, and subsequent floods.

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Log debris at the mouth of the Arthur River

It was a very windy day and the seas over on this coast were really rough.

We found this coastal section of the Arthur-Pieman Protected Area fairly bleak – rather dreary coastal heathland. There were several small fisherman shack settlements, like Temma.

However, the country between Marrawah and Smithton was pretty – mostly dairying country, with thick stands of blackwoods in the gullies.

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Dairy cattle on the lush pastures of the north west

On the way back into Stanley, we detoured towards “Highfield”, to the Stanley Lookout, which gave excellent views over the town, The Nut and the general surrounds. Continued on that way and came back into town the back way.

“Highfield House” like “Woolnorth” to the northwest, is a legacy of the time, from the 1820’s, when the Van Diemans Land Agricultural Company owned all this part of the state. Highfield was built in the early 1830’s and is a substantial place, now a Heritage site, whereas Woolnorth is still VDL Company owned. The Company certainly managed to acquire some excellent farming land.

We drove 268kms today.

Packed up the awning and the outside furniture.

Tea was curried zucchini soup, which John really liked. Then lamb chops and vegies.

It was still very windy. Heavy rain set in about 9.30pm.


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2000 Travels March 20

MONDAY 20 MARCH     STANLEY

The morning was a mix of cloud and sunshine.

We left camp about 9.45am, to travel the Western Explorer route, south to Corinna.

The first part of the way took us over the same roads we’d travelled yesterday, through Irishtown and on down to the Kanunnah Bridge over the Arthur River. From here, we kept heading south west, to a T intersection, not long after we’d crossed the Frankland River, where we turned south east. The track ahead went through to Couta Rocks, on the coast.

After some 15kms on the Western Explorer route,  we took a somewhat rough track to our left, for a short way, into the former mining settlement of Balfour. Tin and copper were mined here, for a few years, in the early 1900’s. In 1911, a tramway was built from here across to Temma, on the coast, to take the ore to ships. But Temma was not really a safe place for ships, and the mine was abandoned shortly after anyway, so Temma never became a port. The very rough 4WD Balfour Track goes between Balfour and the coast.

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Relics of mining at Balfour

We had a little explore and found some abandoned bits of machinery and a lot of tracks, which we did not have time to explore.

Stopped at the Donaldson River crossing to eat lunch. This was in a rather rare forested section. Much of the way had been over button grass plains. These grow where the soil is almost non existent, having been scoured and eroded away in the ice age times. Where the soils are deeper and richer, there are forests.

Stopped several kms further on, parked Truck and walked the Longback Track to the top of a ridge, which gave us great sweeping views all round. I went close to walking on a small snake and back stepped very quickly, while it wriggled away. Today’s snake!

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The Western Explorer traverses varied country

Continued on to Corinna, reaching there at 3.15pm. The place consisted of a few rustic cottages, and the barge, by the very wide Pieman River. Not far from Corinna we stopped so that I could take a photo of a particularly large myrtle tree.

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Really big myrtle tree

This trip down to Corinna was superb, through the mix of button grass plains, and myrtle dominated forests. There were some big ranges in the distance. The road was fine – where it was steep, or particularly bendy, it had been sealed.

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The Western Explorer crosses some difficult country

On a couple of our stops we saw ground parrots – a bird new to us.

It had been such a varied and enjoyable drive that we decided to go back the same way, rather than the planned route on the bitumen via Savage River and Waratah.

Just out of Corinna, found we had a tyre going down. It seemed to be the tube again, like the last one. We changed it more quickly this time. Hoped we didn’t get another flat on this remote road – still hadn’t done the smart thing and brought the second spare. It is a hassle to get it up on the roof rack. But we didn’t let any worry spoil the journey.

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Changing flat tyre near Corinna

We actually saw several lots of traffic, all going the other way – more than we would have expected, given the lateness of the day.

We got back to Stanley at 7pm, having driven 326kms.

It was so late that we bought fish and chips for tea.

While walking in the forest on one of our stops, I’d found some yellow and red myrtle leaves on the ground, near a big tree. I thought then that we might be lucky and get to see the spectacular leaf colour change before we leave here in mid-April.

It was a great day!