This Adventurous Age

Adventures travelling and working around Australia.

Tag Archives: Takarakka


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2009 Travels June 5

FRIDAY 5 JUNE     CARNARVON GORGE TO EMERALD     240kms

A brilliant blue sky this morning, and sunshine. There had been a heavy dew overnight, though. Later in the morning, it clouded over.

Takarakka local – Whiptail or Pretty Faced Wallaby

We left Takkarakka at 9am. A number of other rigs had gone before us. The problem areas on the road out had been packed down by the prior traffic, but outside of the wheel tracks there was lots of surface slop. There were some parts that still seemed a bit slippy – we had been in low range from the resort driveway on, and stayed that way almost until reaching the highway. We got out ok but it must have been hair-raising for those who had left when it was still raining.

We passed a couple of churned-up places beside the road. Clearly, where rigs had slid off the surface, gotten stuck and, presumably,  had to be pulled out.

Once on the highway, it was a very attractive drive to Emerald, with lots of large and small hills about. It was an alternating mix of farmland and bush. The Staircase Range area, between Rolleston and Springsure, went through a lot of road cuttings that were interesting in themselves.

Springsure looked interesting, with dramatic hills around it. Another place noted that would be worthwhile for a future stay and explore. Not this time – we were feeling that, if we were going to make it to Far North Qld, it was time to focus on really moving north.

Near Springsure

That said, John wanted us to stay for at least the weekend in Emerald, so he could get in some bowls.

We had heard, en route, that Monday was a long weekend holiday – had kind of lost track of that sort of thing. I raised the possibility of seeing out the long weekend, with its increased traffic and people, in Emerald. John immediately latched on to that as a good idea – it might mean an extra bowls game….

Once we had a reasonable mobile phone signal, I texted daughter to check that the family hadn’t succumbed to the nasty ‘flu, then rang the Emerald Caravan Park. They were very busy, I was told, but could possibly juggle sites around to fit us in,  if we were going to stay for three or four days. After that, I had a sinking feeling that we were not going to fetch up camped on any prime spots!

Reached Emerald just after midday. It felt rather strange to be in a biggish town again, and in busy traffic.

Our powered site at the Emerald Cabin and Caravan Village cost $30 a night. We were allocated a so-called drive-through site, right on the corner of  internal roads. So-called, because had the site in front been occupied, we would not have been able to drive through at all! Gravel, but at least with a slab. As I’d feared, there was nothing attractive about the site, but it had all the services. It was clearly a squeezed-in area that was no-one’s first choice! Strangely arranged – the vehicle of the van next to us parked almost within touching distance of our awning. There was nowhere for us to park Truck, except for the empty site in front of us. Not sure what we would do if that was occupied. An en-suite style amenities block was nearby – very nice, but eight of the fourteen “rooms” in it were not in use – yet the Park was full! That seemed rather mean of them, at the outset and there were times through our stay when we had to queue for use of a bathroom. Thinking ahead was a good idea – it did not pay to be in a hurry…..

A lot of the rigs in the very full Park had obviously been here for a while – people working in the area. Emerald was big on the Harvest Trail that was followed by grey nomads and backpackers.

After setting up and having lunch, we drove to the Bowls Club – of course. John was rather put out to find he could not get a game tomorrow, but booked  both of us for one on Sunday. I guessed his memory of St George had faded! As far as I was concerned, I was still in bushwalk credit!

On to the Information Centre, where we did the obvious. At the Post Office, I sent off postcards to assorted family members, and a birthday card for my brother’s 60th. Sussed out the newsagent about the availability and times for tomorrow’s papers. We ordered fish and chips for later collection, at a shop recommended by the person who checked us into the caravan park.

The day had been nice and hot, but by about 5pm had gotten cold enough for us to need windcheaters and long trousers.

John drove off to collect our dinner, at 6.15. It was ready right on time. Cost $25. Fish seemed incredibly expensive in Qld. It was alright, maybe a bit on the greasy side. The serves were certainly generous and I couldn’t finish all mine.

We had TV again, of course, though the reception wasn’t the best. John spent quite a bit of time fiddling with the aerial and its direction.

I was really tired and had a much earlier night than the screen watcher.


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2009 Travels June 3

WEDNESDAY 3 JUNE     CARNARVON GORGE

I woke up to a wet world, grey and misty. However, the campground paths and grass were not too soggy. Not going to be a red mud in the van problem here….

As I had my coffee outside under the awning, watched a van pull out – and then come back and set up again where he had been! Both the road out to the highway, and the road from here to the National Park, were closed. There was a sign on the track, just beyond Reception, to that effect.

Whilst it had still been dark and I was lying semi-awake in bed, had heard some engine activity. Found out later that three or four rigs, anticipating that the road closed signs would go up, had headed out in the dark to try to beat the “official” closure. Selfish idiots! One of these – a 4WD and camper trailer – slid off the road on the first hill and had to be pulled out by a tractor from Takarakka. This, of course, churned up the slippery road on that hill even more. I had no sympathy whatsoever for the driver. There are always the inconsiderate few who think only of their wishes, and stuff things up for others. I hoped the resort charged him for the tractor retrieval.

Heard later that another of these rigs got bogged a bit further on. Don’t know who retrieved him, or if anyone did. Maybe they had to stay put for a while, which would have served them right.

After breakfast, we walked up the Takarakka drive track to the road. At that point, there was a fairly steep  uphill stretch in each direction. The one in the highway direction was a real mess, courtesy of the early departees. No-one with their senses about them would try to tackle that gradient with that much mud on it. I decided they were lacking in brains as well as consideration.

Even walking alongside the road in order to take photos was muddy and slippery.

Photos did not show how steep the road gradients actually were….

There were occasional episodes of rain – mostly drizzle – through the day. Maybe we should have just stayed home in Melbourne for the winter – the weather would probably have been better!

Two Rangers from the National Park came in to get gas. They said that the road to the Park could open this afternoon, if the sun came out. It didn’t. Apparently the road had a sandy and rock base and did dry out quickly.

Looking back downhill from as far as I could walk…

A police 4WD vehicle also arrived – from the other direction. They came to check there were no vital issues with the stranded campers. Some people were being inconvenienced, of course. Some were on ridiculously tight schedules that didn’t allow for hiccups like closed roads. Most were philosophical.

Anyone who had done their research before venturing in here would know that road closures were a regular event and, given that it was winter, planned accordingly.

It might appear – correctly – that I had no sympathy for anyone not able to take an extra couple of days to wait out the situation.

There was, for example, an American couple, with a little boy, who were booked on a flight out of Brisbane tomorrow morning, and had been expecting to drive there today. A mere 720kms – with a young child.

Camped further along from us there were a Britz and a Maui motorhomes – not 4WD ones, but the types that were not permitted to leave the sealed roads!

Later in the day, local staff did escort a vehicle out, up the hill – I was not sure why or who.

We went for another walk in the afternoon, just on the tracks around the resort and towards the road. John came up with the idea that we had to spot twenty different types of birds, before we could go back. Eventually, had to admit defeat, when we could only manage eight. The birds were, it seemed, finding it a bit wet to be going about their usual birdy business.

Pretty clear message……

Late afternoon, there were two or three local vehicles out and about, looking for two fifty year old ladies, camped near us, whose husbands hadn’t seen them since 11am. Apparently, they went up to the Resort for a cup of coffee, then decided to go for a walk – all the way to the Park, where they were “found”. It was a bit of excitement, but how embarrassing to have been them! Obviously, THEY didn’t think they were lost – it was all the men’s idea.

Tea was cold chicken, hot potatoes, and coleslaw.

The rain got heavy again, after dark. That wasn’t going to improve the roads any.

I read, then went to bed at 10pm. Times like these, it was good to have a stock of books. John played his latest computer game – till 2am, apparently.


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2009 Travels June 1

MONDAY 1 JUNE     ST GEORGE TO CARNARVON GORGE     440kms

The first day of winter. Definitely time to be further north.

John’s hip was sore through the night and he did not sleep well, so we got up just before 7am. The caravan park was noisy, even then. We were all breakfasted, packed up, and pulling out at the most unusual-for-us hour of 8.15.

John wanted to make distance today, and vetoed my plan to overnight in Roma. But he did agree – since we were kind of driving right past it – to go and stay near Carnarvon Gorge for some of the walking I was owed.

It was an enjoyable drive to Roma, through mostly grazing country, once the irrigated parts around St George were left behind. The road was better than I’d expected. We paralleled the Balonne River as far as Surat where it was still quite a respectable stream that we crossed by bridge.

We found a van parking area in Roma, only a block from Woolworths. Full marks to Roma! I walked to the supermarket to stock up on some supplies – and on cash – while John took advantage of the strong phone signal to get on the internet to pay the overdue Telstra bills. I phoned the Takarakka caravan park at Carnarvon Gorge, to ensure we would get in.

So we pressed on. Refuelled at Injune and ate our packed lunch in a small park there. Just south of Injune we had passed out of the Murray Darling Basin at last.

The first part of the side road to Carnarvon Gorge was sealed, but the last 20kms or so, to Takarakka was not. There were a couple of cattle grids that could have caused some damage, had we hit them too fast. But this was not our first time along this road, and John was cautious. The dirt section was well graded, and being worked on.

Reached Takarakka at 4.15pm, which was pretty reasonable, considering the distance we covered for the day.

We hadn’t stayed at Takarakka before. Last time, the National Park campground was open and we camped there. The commercial Takarakka cost $38 a night for a powered site. Gulp! With no current camping in the National Park, except for some limited times in school holidays, this place had a monopoly and could charge accordingly. We booked in for three nights.

Our site – in their more informal Echidna Circle area – was very pleasant, with the creek looping around the perimeter of this small section of the park, and a fairly bushy outlook. We were on grass, and able to hook up to water as well as power. The amenities were modern and clean. There was a big camp kitchen area, with gas BBQ’s. Clearly, as the closest place to stay to the Park, they had a pretty good business. There were still outfits coming in after dark.

There was no mobile phone reception here, and hence no internet. No TV either – I can pick ’em! John was disgruntled.

Feels like being back in the bush……

Before dark, we walked along the creek to the platypus pool. Apparently there was a family of four of them lived there, but we didn’t see any. Then, we walked around the campground to get a sense of what the rest of the place was like. The section on the northern side of reception was bigger, with a number of cabins, as well as smaller, more conventional powered sites. I liked our section much better.

Whilst walking, we saw a guy towing an Avan with an ordinary car, come in, driving very fast. We watched his back car tyre go flat, whilst he was in Reception. If his arrival was typical of his general driving style on the road in, we were not surprised he’d stuffed a tyre. Then we watched him make a real hash of trying to back this tiny Avan into a large site, flat tyre and all.

Although the night was on the chilly side, it was lovely to go to sleep to bush noises again.